If it had something to do with the clutch it wouldn't matter what speed, it would be RPM related. I suspect it is a drive shaft problem.

walker70 wrote: ↑

Mon Apr 23, 2018 10:14 am

Hi,thought about a bad ground and yes they do flicker in time with the blinkers and flashers.

In that case check all the turn signal bulbs for the correct type and that the bulb sockets are grounded, could be corrosion in a socket.

Your AV control probably has a short in it.

I have the same problem on my '85, fires, until you let the starter button off. Only changed the solenoid for the new, improved one, no wires moved, all are as original in the connector on top, and the battery and starter wires. Worked fine before solenoid change. The old one had the melted down 30...

lamasue wrote: ↑

Mon Apr 23, 2018 3:36 pm

Whens the last time you changed clutch fluid

How would that cause a noise?

Can the intake manifolds be removed from the engine out the sides with the engine still in the bike? Is it a horrible job? It looks possible, but just wanted to confirm that someone has done it. Thanks again. Yes they can. Just some vacuum lines & the plug wires to deal with as best I remember.

Yes, look down in front of the intakes.

Probably a bad ground.

That is not your problem, it is the vacuum advance and doesn't make much difference if it works or not & it is ported vacuum, doesn't have vacuum at idle. Vacuum comes from #3, not from the canister anyway.
I suspect the low speed jet is plugged.

I don't have any info on that but I assume it has a bank angle sensor, maybe it's not mounted correctly.

cihilb wrote: ↑

Sun Apr 22, 2018 7:14 pm

Greg, he said 17,000 plus 8,000. 25,000 miles is NOT a lot of miles.

Depends if you work somewhere you make money by replacing them or if you are the one paying for it.

teazle wrote: ↑

Sun Apr 22, 2018 4:03 pm

Thanks for your reply.
I wonder how it got stripped.

Not but 1 way, it got overtightened.

it's one of the bolts that hold the cases together. Way too deep to use a thread insert.

Metzeler probably has the best stick but also have a reputation for premature failure. Shinko and Kenda are very good cheap tires. Pirelli and Michelin if you have the money to spend.

Maybe the release bearing.

Someone did a nice job. Looks like they put a frame frame something with a monoshock inside an 1100 frame.

People with 1500s have done that.

A bad tire, front or rear.

The reverse switch on the trans is what grounds starter relay B (D1) and also the reverse switch relay (D4) if it's not in neutral. The reverse lever switch powers the neutral light and the reverse relay switch when it is in the forward position. So if the neutral light doesn't come on it is either ...

No, the rebore 1st oversize is only .010" or .25mm so it won't affect anything. Wouldn't really bother any of that if you could bore it 1/2".

That and anything else you need to know is here; http://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewt ... f=11&t=261

You probably need to adjust the release screw in the center of the clutch cover. Slack the cable all the way off, loosen the lock nut and turn the screw in until it touches, back it off 1/2 turn and tighten the lock nut, then adjust the cable.

Did you look at the bulbs?

The hoses will probably make 20 years at least. Don't know if there is any scheduled hose replacement, doubt it.

If it goes either way it shouldn't matter which way. The spacer, inner bearing races and axle are all stationary.

If you mean the spacer that goes inside the wheel between the bearings it should only go 1 way if 1 end is bigger than the other.