LED Lights


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igonzalezjr
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LED Lights

Postby igonzalezjr » Tue Apr 06, 2010 12:59 am



would it be easier to just purchase a flasher fuse and replace the standard one when converting all the turn signals to LED type lights. I would appreciate any information.



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Re: LED Lights

Postby WingAdmin » Tue Apr 06, 2010 6:38 am

You need to replace the flasher with an electronic flasher like one of these when you switch your turn signals to LED. The existing flasher will not flash the lights.

The existing electromechanical flasher works with a bimetallic strip. As power goes through the bimetallic strip and heats it up, one of the pieces of metal expands faster than the other, until it creates enough pressure to move it away from the contacts, opening the circuit - lights go off. Because there's no longer power flowing through it, the metal cools, until it moves back and re-engages the contacts - lights go on. At that point power flows through it again, heating it up, and the cycle repeats.

When you put LEDs on your bike, there is less power flowing through the strip, so it doesn't heat up as much - still enough to open the contacts, but because it didn't get as hot, it takes less time to cool off, so it closes the contacts sooner. This is why it flashes faster when you draw less current.

Switch to ALL LEDs, it's possible to draw so little current that the bimetallic strip won't heat up enough to open the contacts at all, the result being that it won't flash - it will just stay on.

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Re: LED Lights

Postby igonzalezjr » Thu Apr 08, 2010 9:30 pm

thank you very much for the info, i'll try that out. be safe

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Re: LED Lights

Postby igonzalezjr » Tue Apr 13, 2010 12:15 am

I found a flasher unit on super bright lights.com that is suppose to replace the OEM flasher and allow the use of LED lights, has anyone tried one or a similar product. where is the flasher unit on a 83 goldwing interstate. maybe that will be an easier way of converting. any thoughts? thanks and be safe

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Re: LED Lights

Postby WingAdmin » Tue Apr 13, 2010 6:43 pm

I put the "CF13JL-02" model at the superbrightleds.com link that I posted in the message above on my bike, and it works great. Flasher is located under the false tank, on the left hand side.

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Re: LED Lights

Postby igonzalezjr » Tue Apr 13, 2010 6:57 pm

thank you very much, i appreciate the assistance. i really enjoy this site it is so informative. take care and be safe

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Re: LED Lights

Postby flambeauriver » Mon Aug 29, 2011 4:39 pm

WingAdmin wrote:I put the "CF13JL-02" model at the superbrightleds.com link that I posted in the message above on my bike, and it works great. Flasher is located under the false tank, on the left hand side.


I just received the CF13JL-02 flasher but my LED lights have not yet arrived. I swapped out the old flasher with the LED one...now the flashers don't work, but the running lights remain on. Does the new flasher work only with LED lights? The new flasher has three prongs...battery, load, and earth. The existing one has just 2...battery and load. WIth the new one...should I run a ground lead to that 'Earth' prong?

I put the old flasher back for now and everything works, so I didn't manage to break any leads.

Thanks in advance.

Dan

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Re: LED Lights

Postby flambeauriver » Mon Aug 29, 2011 4:41 pm

Forgot to mention in my previous post...my bike is a 1982 Goldwing GL1100 Interstate.

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Re: LED Lights

Postby thrasherg » Mon Aug 29, 2011 5:02 pm

Yes, you have to connect the third pin to earth, if you do not, it will not work.. Just connect a wire to your frame somewhere and connect it to the earth pin on the new flasher. As you state, you will not have done any harm connecting it up the way you did, but it will not work that way!! Put the new one back in with the earth connection and it will work fine with your existing indicator lights, and you can change to LED bulbs when they arrive.

Gary

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Re: LED Lights

Postby WingAdmin » Mon Aug 29, 2011 9:59 pm

You got it. That third prong needs to be grounded. However - even though the GL1100 came with a two-prong flasher, Honda helpfully put wiring in there for a three-prong, should you ever need it - so have a look, you should see a spare connector floating around right next to the flasher - plug that onto the spare flasher prong (the ground prong) and you should be good to go.

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Re: LED Lights

Postby flambeauriver » Tue Aug 30, 2011 7:50 pm

I attached a ground to the 'Earth' prong and the flasher now works well. My LEDs arrived from Hong Kong today and these have now been installed. They are nice and bright. I didn't need to remove the false tank. I did use some forceps to grap the leads and insert them on the prongs. I ran a cable to the fuse block for the ground...could not retrieve the ground lurking below. I put the new flasher in the old rubber surround and reinstalled it...that was not particularly hard. Thanks for the advice and encouragement.

Anyone figure out just how many watts are liberated by switching out the 1156's and 1157's ? I want to use, as needed, my Tourmaster heated jacket. The GL1100 manual says there are 60 watts surplus. The jacket uses 75 watts at full power. I might have another 10 watts used up by a GPS and XM radio. So I need another 25 watts (15 + 10). I'm thinking the LED switch should provide at least that many watts. I am thinking of installing a ammeter or voltmeter to keep an eye on my power usage.

Cordially-

Dan

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Re: LED Lights

Postby WingAdmin » Wed Aug 31, 2011 1:03 am

flambeauriver wrote:Anyone figure out just how many watts are liberated by switching out the 1156's and 1157's ? I want to use, as needed, my Tourmaster heated jacket. The GL1100 manual says there are 60 watts surplus. The jacket uses 75 watts at full power. I might have another 10 watts used up by a GPS and XM radio. So I need another 25 watts (15 + 10). I'm thinking the LED switch should provide at least that many watts. I am thinking of installing a ammeter or voltmeter to keep an eye on my power usage.


An 1156 (and 1157 when in brake mode) draws 27 watts. An 1157 in running light mode draws 9 watts.

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Re: LED Lights

Postby thrasherg » Wed Aug 31, 2011 10:28 am

But remember, indicators are an intermittent load not a constant load (You should NOT be riding around with your indicators on all the time). You need to replace driving lights, tail lights and side lights with LED's to really help the electric system.

Gary

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Re: LED Lights

Postby flambeauriver » Wed Aug 31, 2011 10:31 am

The Honda manual states there is 60 watts available for accessories. The stator puts out 300 watts max., implying the machine needs 240 watts for its operation. I am presuming these are very conservative figures because it is difficult for me to add up the 240 watts and I realize it is not a simple addition of lights and ignition needs and that the machine is not always running at 5000rpm, etc. I am certain there are very good reasons that 60 watt surplus was derived. But, I just replaced 6 bulbs with LEDs, and figuring I am gaining at least 6 or 7 watts per bulb, I have increased the 60 watts cushion by (6x7) 42 watts to about 100 watts total, again probably a very conservative figure.

No doubt my logic is very fuzzy, but I think I'll be fine occasionally wearing that heated jacket pulling at most 75 watts while listening to XM (5 watts) and with a GPS operating (5 watts). Thanks again for your assistance.

Dan

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Re: LED Lights

Postby thrasherg » Wed Aug 31, 2011 10:46 am

flambeauriver wrote:The Honda manual states there is 60 watts available for accessories. The stator puts out 300 watts max., implying the machine needs 240 watts for its operation. I am presuming these are very conservative figures because it is difficult for me to add up the 240 watts and I realize it is not a simple addition of lights and ignition needs and that the machine is not always running at 5000rpm, etc. I am certain there are very good reasons that 60 watt surplus was derived. But, I just replaced 6 bulbs with LEDs, and figuring I am gaining at least 6 or 7 watts per bulb, I have increased the 60 watts cushion by (6x7) 42 watts to about 100 watts total, again probably a very conservative figure.

No doubt my logic is very fuzzy, but I think I'll be fine occasionally wearing that heated jacket pulling at most 75 watts while listening to XM (5 watts) and with a GPS operating (5 watts). Thanks again for your assistance.

Dan


I would agree 100% with you..

Gary

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Re: LED Lights

Postby flambeauriver » Thu Sep 22, 2011 3:07 pm

Tried out my heated Tourmaster jacket pulling 75watts. I have installed a voltmeter...while riding the voltmeter reads 14v or so, with or without the jacket set to 'High', so I'm concluding the machine is having no trouble supplying the battery and other electrical needs while supplying the jacket as well. (Those things are almost too hot, at least on the high setting.)

Thanks for the original poster...no way I'd have heard of LEDs as a means to supply more watts.

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Re: LED Lights

Postby WingAdmin » Thu Sep 22, 2011 3:12 pm

flambeauriver wrote:Tried out my heated Tourmaster jacket pulling 75watts. I have installed a voltmeter...while riding the voltmeter reads 14v or so, with or without the jacket set to 'High', so I'm concluding the machine is having no trouble supplying the battery and other electrical needs while supplying the jacket as well. (Those things are almost too hot, at least on the high setting.)

Thanks for the original poster...no way I'd have heard of LEDs as a means to supply more watts.


I have 2x35 watt driving lights on the front of my bike, and running LEDs in all external lights (including additional LED brake lights and marker lights). My bike has no problem keeping up with that.

I also have a set of Gerbing heated gloves that draw 27 watts, and as long as I am running at cruising speeds (i.e. engine >3,000 rpm) the bike also has no trouble running those - as well as my lights.

I also have an XM Radio and GPS, but together they draw less than 10 watts, so they're not much of an issue.

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Re: LED Lights

Postby cbx4evr » Sat Feb 04, 2012 8:43 am

Is there a separate flasher relay unit for the Emergency lights on the 1500? If so is it the same as the signal flasher relay? Would you have to replace both with LED compliant flasher relays?

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Re: LED Lights

Postby WingAdmin » Sun Feb 05, 2012 5:17 pm

cbx4evr wrote:Is there a separate flasher relay unit for the Emergency lights on the 1500? If so is it the same as the signal flasher relay? Would you have to replace both with LED compliant flasher relays?

So early and so many questions.


There is a separate hazard flasher, yes - and it is identical (and located right next to) the turn signal flasher.

However, if you use LED's and replace the flasher with an electronic unit, the auto turn signal canceler will not work. For this reason, I'm going to try to run with LED's and my OEM flashers, and put enough load in parallel with the LEDs to make it operate correctly that way.

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Re: LED Lights

Postby gbearth » Sun Mar 30, 2014 3:16 pm

Hi Wingadmin

I have upgraded front and rear turn lights for LEDs, I read yours and others article on this, and read you changed your flasher unit for an electronic unit CF13JL02. However on my bike the OEM flasher is 3 inline pins and not a boxed spade connections. I have seen on eBay an electronic replacement but it only has 2 wires in a 3 inline female socket. Will this work?. As an alternative would you recommend removing the inline male plug and fitting spades for the CF13JL02 unit. Finally my bike has 2 flasher units the other for the hazard lights I assume this will need to be replaced as well. You state your auto cancel did not work with electronic flasher how did you get round this problem. Thanks

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Re: LED Lights

Postby WingAdmin » Sun Mar 30, 2014 6:12 pm

gbearth wrote:Hi Wingadmin

I have upgraded front and rear turn lights for LEDs, I read yours and others article on this, and read you changed your flasher unit for an electronic unit CF13JL02. However on my bike the OEM flasher is 3 inline pins and not a boxed spade connections. I have seen on eBay an electronic replacement but it only has 2 wires in a 3 inline female socket. Will this work?. As an alternative would you recommend removing the inline male plug and fitting spades for the CF13JL02 unit. Finally my bike has 2 flasher units the other for the hazard lights I assume this will need to be replaced as well. You state your auto cancel did not work with electronic flasher how did you get round this problem. Thanks


A two-pin flasher dispenses with the third pin, which is connected to ground. Most two pin flashers will work in a three-pin circuit, simply leaving the ground pin unconnected, however you may notice your LED indicators glowing slightly at night when they are off. You can fix this by using a three-pin electronic flasher.

It is not the electronic flasher that causes the auto cancel to not work on the GL1500, it is the low current draw of the LED turn signals. The way I got around this was to a) leave the original flashers in place, and b) put a set of high-current power resistors in parallel with the LED turn signals. See: viewtopic.php?f=6&t=14549&p=74651#p74230

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Re: LED Lights

Postby gbearth » Sun Mar 30, 2014 8:08 pm

Hi
Thanks for that on reflection I will fit the resistors, did you fit yours under the top pannier where it's easy access for frame.

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Re: LED Lights

Postby WingAdmin » Sun Mar 30, 2014 8:23 pm

gbearth wrote:Hi
Thanks for that on reflection I will fit the resistors, did you fit yours under the top pannier where it's easy access for frame.


No, I mounted them on the rear frame, under the trunk.




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