speakers


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Gordwing
Posts: 81
Joined: Tue Jul 05, 2011 8:32 am
Location: Orangeville, ON
Motorcycle: 1992 GL1500 Aspencade

speakers

Postby Gordwing » Tue Jun 10, 2014 8:04 am



Hello fellow Wingers....Just wondering where I can get good replacement speakers for my 92 Aspencade. J & P no longer have the rear speakers.

Gordo



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WingAdmin
Site Admin
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Joined: Fri Oct 03, 2008 4:16 pm
Location: Strongsville, OH
Motorcycle: 2000 GL1500 SE
1982 GL1100A Aspencade (sold)
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Re: speakers

Postby WingAdmin » Tue Jun 10, 2014 9:01 am

Polk Audio DB501's fit the front, and DB401's fit the rear. They are of good quality (better than OEM), and weatherproof!

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Fiberthree
Posts: 447
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Location: Behind the windshield
Motorcycle: Black 1999 GL1500SE

Re: speakers

Postby Fiberthree » Wed Jun 11, 2014 1:53 am

WingAdmin wrote:Polk Audio DB501's fit the front, and DB401's fit the rear. They are of good quality (better than OEM), and weatherproof!


+1 on that. I did the change on my '99 about a month ago. The only mod you have to do is to the front speakers. The mounting holes need to be made into slots which you can do with wire cutters/side cutters. ( the name varies but they look like pliers) Be accurate when you cut and you'll not have sharp edges. They will just drop right in. What takes the most time is removing all the parts to get the dash cover off.
Ed

WARNING: All posts are subject to influence from an uncontrollable dominant sarcastic gene. Offensive remarks may or may not be intentional.

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virgilmobile
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Re: speakers

Postby virgilmobile » Wed Jun 11, 2014 7:03 am

Keep in mind,the amp in the stereo is rated somewhere around 10 watt per channel.size the speakers as close as possible.
Experimenting with mine,I replaced the fronts with a free to me set.I wasn't paying attention.
The volume was about half what my old ones were.I pulled them out and found that they were rated for 150 watt each.
My amp didn't have enough grunt to flex the speaker.I replaced them with 30 watt rated ones.
Couldn't believe the volume increase.
Bigger isn't better unless you have the power to push them.

Gordwing
Posts: 81
Joined: Tue Jul 05, 2011 8:32 am
Location: Orangeville, ON
Motorcycle: 1992 GL1500 Aspencade

Re: speakers

Postby Gordwing » Wed Jun 11, 2014 11:25 am

That's very good info. Thank you for the insight.

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WingAdmin
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Location: Strongsville, OH
Motorcycle: 2000 GL1500 SE
1982 GL1100A Aspencade (sold)
1989 PC800 (wife's!)
1998 XV250 Virago (sold)
2007 Aspen Sentry Trailer

Re: speakers

Postby WingAdmin » Wed Jun 11, 2014 12:08 pm

virgilmobile wrote:Keep in mind,the amp in the stereo is rated somewhere around 10 watt per channel.size the speakers as close as possible.
Experimenting with mine,I replaced the fronts with a free to me set.I wasn't paying attention.
The volume was about half what my old ones were.I pulled them out and found that they were rated for 150 watt each.
My amp didn't have enough grunt to flex the speaker.I replaced them with 30 watt rated ones.
Couldn't believe the volume increase.
Bigger isn't better unless you have the power to push them.


It's not so much the overall rating of the speaker, it's a combination of both the speaker impedance and the sensitivity of the speaker. If the bike normally uses a 2 ohm speaker and you put 4 ohm speakers in it, you are only going to be making about half the power, so it's going to be quite a bit quieter.

Also, you need to look at the speaker sensitivity, which is a measure of Sound Pressure Level (SPL) at a specified distance for a specified input signal. Normally it's specified as dB (decibel - loudness) measured at 1 meter from the speaker, when a 1 watt signal is fed to the speaker. Cheaply built speakers generally have low sensitivity - perhaps 90 dB 1W/1M. Much better speakers would have 100 dB 1W/1M - which means they will emit about twice as much volume at the same input signal.

Lastly, keep in mind that every speaker manufacturer lies about the power rating of their speakers. You will see small computer speakers that show a "100 watt" rating, when in reality they can handle more like 3 or 4 watts. Same thing goes for amplifiers - it's important to look at the THD (total harmonic distortion) numbers. An amplifier capable of putting out 10 watts of clear audio signal can easily put out instantaneous peaks of 100 watts - but the THD will be 99%, so basically inaudible noise. Anything more than about 0.5% THD is really unlistenably bad. So the manufacturer of the 10 watt amplifier will advertise it as a "100 watt amplifier!" conveniently leaving out the 99% THD number.

Lastly, a 10 watt amplifier can very easily destroy speakers rated for 200 watts. Drive a 10 watt amplifier into total (99%) distortion, and it is putting out DC for long periods of time. Speaker coils are not designed or intended to handle DC current, and it will melt them in short order.

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waituntilthebeep
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Re: speakers

Postby waituntilthebeep » Thu Jun 12, 2014 12:04 am

WingAdmin wrote: So the manufacturer of the 10 watt amplifier will advertise it as a "100 watt amplifier!" conveniently leaving out the 99% THD number.

Friend of mine bought a "500 Watt" amp for his car and wehn he got it, it was the size of a small block of cheese. I looked at the specs and it was actually a 15wx4 and the max output was 50 watts per channel. He thought it was a steal for 500 watts at $35. Get what ya pay for.

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Fiberthree
Posts: 447
Joined: Fri Nov 23, 2012 4:06 pm
Location: Behind the windshield
Motorcycle: Black 1999 GL1500SE

Re: speakers

Postby Fiberthree » Thu Jun 12, 2014 6:01 am

WingAdmin wrote:
virgilmobile wrote:Keep in mind,the amp in the stereo is rated somewhere around 10 watt per channel.size the speakers as close as possible.
Experimenting with mine,I replaced the fronts with a free to me set.I wasn't paying attention.
The volume was about half what my old ones were.I pulled them out and found that they were rated for 150 watt each.
My amp didn't have enough grunt to flex the speaker.I replaced them with 30 watt rated ones.
Couldn't believe the volume increase.
Bigger isn't better unless you have the power to push them.


It's not so much the overall rating of the speaker, it's a combination of both the speaker impedance and the sensitivity of the speaker. If the bike normally uses a 2 ohm speaker and you put 4 ohm speakers in it, you are only going to be making about half the power, so it's going to be quite a bit quieter.

Also, you need to look at the speaker sensitivity, which is a measure of Sound Pressure Level (SPL) at a specified distance for a specified input signal. Normally it's specified as dB (decibel - loudness) measured at 1 meter from the speaker, when a 1 watt signal is fed to the speaker. Cheaply built speakers generally have low sensitivity - perhaps 90 dB 1W/1M. Much better speakers would have 100 dB 1W/1M - which means they will emit about twice as much volume at the same input signal.

Lastly, keep in mind that every speaker manufacturer lies about the power rating of their speakers. You will see small computer speakers that show a "100 watt" rating, when in reality they can handle more like 3 or 4 watts. Same thing goes for amplifiers - it's important to look at the THD (total harmonic distortion) numbers. An amplifier capable of putting out 10 watts of clear audio signal can easily put out instantaneous peaks of 100 watts - but the THD will be 99%, so basically inaudible noise. Anything more than about 0.5% THD is really unlistenably bad. So the manufacturer of the 10 watt amplifier will advertise it as a "100 watt amplifier!" conveniently leaving out the 99% THD number...


All true although it isn't a lie as much as a ploy to get you to buy their product. The following was taken from Crutchfield web site.

RMS power vs. peak power
Don't be confused by "peak power" and "RMS power" ratings. Simply put, RMS wattage ratings are a measure of continuous power — while different manufacturers will use somewhat different methods to come up with these figures, it's usually a more "real-life" rating of your equipment's capabilities. Peak power, on the other hand, doesn't try to reflect realistic operation. It's simply a measure of how much power can be generated or handled for very short bursts.

Many manufacturers emphasize peak power ratings by stamping these ratings on their subwoofers and amplifiers. As we noted before, peak power ratings are not realistic measures of the true power capabilities of the equipment.


The POLK speakers will work just fine.


Ed

WARNING: All posts are subject to influence from an uncontrollable dominant sarcastic gene. Offensive remarks may or may not be intentional.


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