How to remove, rebuild and reinstall your starter

Step-by-step tutorials on how to maintain and fix your GL1100
  • Sponsored Links
Posts: 292
Joined: Fri Apr 08, 2016 2:53 am
Location: Headland,Alabama
Motorcycle: 1986 Honda Goldwing Aspencade

Re: How to remove, rebuild and reinstall your starter

Post by walker70 » Sat Sep 02, 2017 2:33 pm

Hi,have a quick question about my starter,I am getting ready to rebuild mine but this is what is going on,where the brushes are on the original holder the brush with the insulated wire is soldered to the housing but on the new kit it shows it being screwed into the plate,anyway you can tell how to get around this??? :D

User avatar
Posts: 2
Joined: Mon Aug 28, 2017 3:51 pm
Location: Chateauguay, Quebec, Canada
Motorcycle: GL1200, Interstate, 1984

Re: How to remove, rebuild and reinstall your starter

Post by yvanttt » Mon Sep 04, 2017 3:21 pm

use a soldering iron and solder wick or solder pump.
Be careful not to pull on the wire when unsorldering so the eyelet won't come off
It looks like the original eyelet is still present. only clogged by solder.

User avatar
Posts: 1
Joined: Fri Oct 13, 2017 8:13 pm
Location: Bangor, ME
Motorcycle: 1983 GL1100 Aspencade

Re: How to remove, rebuild and reinstall your starter

Post by GronkFries » Mon Oct 23, 2017 5:52 pm

A very good guide, my starter had a mechanical defect on one of the brushes (Photo attached) so I didn't completely disassemble. Just took the back cap off, verified the washers (Thin, thin, thick inner to outer), wiped out the cover, wiped down the brush contact area with alcohol and reassembled with a new $15.00 brush plate. The difference is amazing - Instead of a worthless grunt the starter whirls over now at amazing speed. I was one of the suckers that bought a brand new battery first too - A recommended maintenance even for starters that seem to work ok. Your battery and charging system will love you for it.

Of course if your wing doesn't start with no choke and half a turn there is something wrong, so I'll have to be careful not to leave my thumb on the button for more than a tenth of a second.

Some things I noticed that could be mentioned:

Yes, you don't need to take the exhaust off but you do have to have a 1/4 drive set with a universal joint directly attached to the shallow 8mm (Or 9mm, can't remember) socket, then a short extension.

A 10mm ignition wrench should be used to hold the back nut in place when taking the battery wire off. A normal wrench doesn't slide in there very good.

When putting the starter back on, take your finger and gently push the chain to the right a little so the splines line up better.

When putting the bolts that mount the starter back on, do the front one (Near the splines) first and leave it loose, then push the starter up just a little bit to get the back bolt in - Tricky because you need to spin the extension/socket while holding the starter...

Post Reply