How to change your engine oil


Step-by-step tutorials on how to maintain and fix your GL1100
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How to change your engine oil

Postby WingAdmin » Tue Jul 28, 2009 8:29 am



Changing your engine oil is a very simple task, yet this crucial maintenance item is often neglected by owners. It's cheap and quick, and you will learn more about your motorcycle by performing it!

The engine (and therefore the oil) should be warm before draining the oil. Go out and ride it to get it to operating temperature, then let it sit and cool for half an hour - that's about the right temperature. Too hot and you will remove flesh, too cold and the oil won't flow smoothly out the drain hole. You want it to be warm and thin enough to drain quickly, so that it carries all the contaminates out with it. Cold, thick oil that comes out like syrup won't drain all the contaminates out with it, and you'll just end up with new, dirty oil. You may want to try adding some Seafoam first, which will help remove sludge deposits, particularly from your starter's sprague clutch.

1. You will need a replacement oil filter, with the appropriate O-rings.

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2. You will need four quarts of engine oil. This is the brand and type I use, you can use whatever brand and type you decide is best for your motorcycle.

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3. To begin, put the motorcycle on its center stand, and remove the oil drain bolt. My motorcycle has an aftermarket dipstick, so I remove the cinch bolt holding the dipstick in place.

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4. Allow the oil to drain into your oil drain pan.

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5. While the oil is draining, loosen the bolt holding the oil filter housing.

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6. As you loosen the oil filter housing, oil will begin to drain from between the housing and the engine cover - be prepared for it!

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7. Continue to loosen the bolt on the oil filter housing.

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8. Remove the oil filter housing, containing the oil filter.

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9. Remove and discard the oil filter from the oil filter housing.

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10. Remove, but do not discard the washer and oil filter spring. The washer sits between the spring and the filter. This washer is easy lost, because it commonly sticks to the oil filter, and is accidentally discarded.

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11. Remove the center fitting from the oil filter housing.

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12. Note the O-ring on the center fitting.

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13. Remove the O-ring from the center fitting, and discard it. Be careful not to scratch or damage the center fitting.

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14. Remove the O-ring from the oil filter housing and discard it.

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15. Open the new oil filter, and extract the new O-rings.

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16. Apply clean oil to the large O-ring, and insert it into the channel on the oil filter housing.

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17. Apply clean oil to the small O-ring and slide it up the inner fastener and into its channel.

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18. Insert the inner fastener into the oil filter housing.

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19. Place the spring over the bolt.

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20. Place the washer on top of the spring.

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21. Apply clean oil to the rubber bushings at either end of the oil filter, and slide it onto the inner fastener.

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22. Ensure the new oil filter mounting face is clean, and apply a film of clean oil to it.

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23. Place the filter housing against the cover.

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24. Push it in place while turning the fastener bolt by hand, to engage the threads.

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25. Ensure the two notches on the oil filter housing are on either side of the notch on the engine cover. This keeps the oil filter from accidentally coming loose during riding.

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26. Tighten the bolt on the oil filter housing.

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27. Install the oil drain plug (or in my case, the oil dipstick).

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28. Open the oil filler cap. Mine is always hard to open, but a Crescent wrench does the job without marking it up.

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29. Insert a funnel into the oil filler, and pour oil into the funnel. You will need approximately 3 1/2 quarts. Don't try to do this without a funnel - any spills will drip directly onto your exhaust pipe, and this will make copious amounts of bad-smelling smoke the next time you start your motorcycle!

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30. Watch the oil level indicator.

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31. You should fill the crankcase with oil until it shows at the "full" line as shown here, and no further. If the window on your indicator is too dirty, put a small screwdriver on the flat screw in the middle, and turn it - this will operate a wiper on the inside of the window, which will clean the dirt away.

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32. Install and tighten the oil filler cap.

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33. Start the motorcycle, and check for leaks. There should (obviously) be no oil leaking out.

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anthony_riester
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Re: How to change your engine oil

Postby anthony_riester » Thu Jan 07, 2010 9:27 pm

I have some valvoline mc oil thats 20w 50 will that be ok to use in my 1976 GL1000 or should i get 10w 40 for sure.

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Re: How to change your engine oil

Postby WingAdmin » Fri Jan 08, 2010 11:23 am

anthony_riester wrote:I have some valvoline mc oil thats 20w 50 will that be ok to use in my 1976 GL1000 or should i get 10w 40 for sure.


The GL1000 owners manual states:

For operation when outside temperature is above 50F (15C), use SAE30 or 10W40 multigrade
For operation between 32F-50F (0C-15C) use SAE20, SAE20W or 10W40 multigrade
For operation below 32F (0C) use SAE10W or 10W40 multigrade

Your 20W50 will be too thick at operating temperature (it will be SAE50 equivalent at operating temperature), and will not provide adequate lubrication. I would go get the 10W40.

From the 1975 GL1000 manual
From the 1975 GL1000 manual

RAT
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Re: How to change your engine oil

Postby RAT » Sun Jan 10, 2010 5:41 pm

Isn't there a washer that goes between the spring and the filter?

Often gets thrown out stuck to the old filter?

Gord :roll:

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Re: How to change your engine oil

Postby WingAdmin » Sun Jan 10, 2010 6:02 pm

RAT wrote:Isn't there a washer that goes between the spring and the filter?

Often gets thrown out stuck to the old filter?

Gord :roll:


Yep. It was missing from my bike when I got it, and it was also missing in my spare engine. It's on my "plan to do one day" list... :) Thanks for catching that, I added some verbage mentioning it.

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Re: How to change your engine oil

Postby RAT » Sun Jan 10, 2010 7:06 pm

I put one of those spin on filter adapters on my 1100 so I have a spare washer.

Give me your snail mail address and I'll send it to you :)

Gord (jonesgord@gmail.com) Jones

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Re: How to change your engine oil

Postby BillR » Sun Apr 11, 2010 5:03 pm

Is there a DIY for removing and cleaning the oil screen?

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Re: How to change your engine oil

Postby WingAdmin » Sun Apr 11, 2010 9:08 pm

The instructions for flushing the engine in the service manual include it:

1. Drain the engine oil.
2. Remove the right muffler flange nuts.



3. Remove the right rear mounting bolt. Loosen the right-left muffler connecting bolts and remove the right muffler.



4. Remove the bottom front engine bolt nut on the right side. Push the bolt out of the right frame tube. Loosen the right bottom engine mounting bolt.

5. Remove three oil screen cover bolts, loosen the fourth until it touches the frame.



6. Carefully flex the frame and wedge a prybar between the frame and engine. Remove the fourth bolt and oil screen cover.

CAUTION: Do not flex the frame more than necessary to prevent frame damage. Also, be careful not to damage the engine case.

Note: Loosen the left engine mount bolts if the frame cannot be flexed enough.



7. Remove the oil screen.

8. Slowly pour 1 quart of clean oil into the oil filler to flush any particles toward the oil screen.

9. Reach into the oil screen cavity and remove any loose particles as the oil is being poured into the engine.



10. Clean and install the oil screen.

11. Install the oil screen cover. Replace the original front oil screen cover bolt with one about 3 mm shorter, so the frame will not have to be flexed for future removal.



12. Remove the prybar, push the bottom front engine bolt back into place, and install nut.

13. Torque the lower rear and front engine mount bolts to 44 ft-lb.

14. Install the right muffler.


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Re: How to change your engine oil

Postby BillR » Mon Apr 12, 2010 6:30 am

Thanks for that! I wish the pictures from the manual were as good a quality as those in the DIY article. Still, it does help tremendously.

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Re: How to change your engine oil

Postby WingAdmin » Mon Apr 12, 2010 10:40 am

BillR wrote:Thanks for that! I wish the pictures from the manual were as good a quality as those in the DIY article. Still, it does help tremendously.


That's one of the reasons why I started doing the DIY articles - after puzzling through vague and sometimes missing instructions in the service manual, I thought, "some people will be absolutely lost trying to do this stuff...I should document it as I'm doing it and put it online." So there you go.

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Re: How to change your engine oil

Postby WA9FWT » Mon Apr 12, 2010 8:14 pm

And what a great job you have done on this site.
I was out ridding Sunday and came across a broke down Winger, told him about this site, and hope to see him here one day.Found out he is a local from my town and was pushing his 1100 about a 1984 full dressor home. He did have a young fellow helping push and had about a mile to go. His system just went out like that, No electrical what so ever. We did offer to help, but he said he did check most fuse's etc. So I wished him well, and went on my way.
I also took count as to how many bikers were NOT wearing helmets. I saw 32 with out and counted 7 with. You will never see me with out that helmet on when ridding...
WA9FWT Phil

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Re: How to change your engine oil

Postby WingAdmin » Mon Apr 12, 2010 9:23 pm

WA9FWT wrote:And what a great job you have done on this site.
I was out ridding Sunday and came across a broke down Winger, told him about this site, and hope to see him here one day.Found out he is a local from my town and was pushing his 1100 about a 1984 full dressor home. He did have a young fellow helping push and had about a mile to go. His system just went out like that, No electrical what so ever. We did offer to help, but he said he did check most fuse's etc. So I wished him well, and went on my way.
I also took count as to how many bikers were NOT wearing helmets. I saw 32 with out and counted 7 with. You will never see me with out that helmet on when ridding...
WA9FWT Phil


I came across a guy with an 1100 on the side of I-71 a few weekends ago, and stopped (I was on my bike). He had a flat rear tire, and thanked me for stopping, but said he had a friend already on the way with a trailer.

I also stopped for another 1100, again on the side of I-71 last week, pushing the bike - he had run out of gas. I was in my truck, and offered to hook up a tow strap and pull him (gently) to the gas station at the next exit, but he said he was fine, and it wouldn't take him much longer. *shrug*

I know I ran my GSX-R750 out of gas years ago, and had to push that damn thing over two miles up a hill, and it didn't weigh anything near what my 1100 does! That's a workout!

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Re: How to change your engine oil

Postby WA9FWT » Tue Apr 13, 2010 8:30 am

I too have run out of gas with the Honda CB-750K, and it was on reserve at the time.I was traveling with the dealer that sold me the bike,and he said lay the bike down ,WHAT !! so there i am laying it down on the side of the hiway. Put it back on it's feet ,hit the starter and awayI went at least another mile.I have done this more then once. So I learned a trick!!!

I wonder if my 1100 would do this ? But I sure hope I never have to find out the hard way.Going to ask my friend that told me in the first place if it works on the 1100 too.

WA9FWT Phil

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Re: How to change your engine oil

Postby BillR » Sun Apr 18, 2010 1:14 pm

Question. I removed the oil plug and it had a washer on it. I removed the filter casing pulled the filter and it had no washer with the spring. Is it possible the previous owner put the washer in the wrong location or is the plug supposed to have a washer? None of my other bikes had a washer on the plug.

Edit: Disregard. Answered my own question by downloading the parts catalog. Yes, the drain plug does have a washer.

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Re: How to change your engine oil

Postby WingAdmin » Sun Apr 18, 2010 9:44 pm

The drain plug is supposed to have a washer, yes. And there should be a washer in the oil filter - if there isn't, you can get one for $1 from Partsnmore.

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Re: How to change your engine oil

Postby BillR » Mon Apr 19, 2010 6:08 am

Thanks! However, I think I'm going to buy the spin on adapter. Just makes sense to me. However I did see a timing belt on that link you gave. Think I'll pick that up post haste.

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Re: How to change your engine oil

Postby WingAdmin » Mon Apr 19, 2010 6:47 am

You can get timing belts from your local NAPA cheaper than that - and just as good quality (made by Gates).

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Re: How to change your engine oil

Postby lyman54 » Wed Jul 14, 2010 9:40 pm

Thanks very much, a big help :mrgreen:

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Re: How to change your engine oil

Postby lake_harley » Wed Sep 08, 2010 3:10 pm

WingAdmin wrote:
anthony_riester wrote:I have some valvoline mc oil thats 20w 50 will that be ok to use in my 1976 GL1000 or should i get 10w 40 for sure.


The GL1000 owners manual states:

For operation when outside temperature is above 50F (15C), use SAE30 or 10W40 multigrade
For operation between 32F-50F (0C-15C) use SAE20, SAE20W or 10W40 multigrade
For operation below 32F (0C) use SAE10W or 10W40 multigrade

Your 20W50 will be too thick at operating temperature (it will be SAE50 equivalent at operating temperature), and will not provide adequate lubrication. I would go get the 10W40.

Oil.gif


Actually, the higher the oil viscosity rating number, the "thicker" the oil is. 20W/50 Oil is actually a higher viscosity (thicker) than the 10W/40. The reason to possibly avoid it, even during warmer weather, is that it will not be pumped into the engine quite as readily and quickly on cold starts because of it's higher viscosity. Basically 20W/50 acts like 20 weight oil when it's cold, but maintains viscosity like 50 weight when it's at "operating" temperature.

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Re: How to change your engine oil

Postby WingAdmin » Thu Sep 09, 2010 10:40 am

lake_harley wrote:
WingAdmin wrote:
anthony_riester wrote:I have some valvoline mc oil thats 20w 50 will that be ok to use in my 1976 GL1000 or should i get 10w 40 for sure.


The GL1000 owners manual states:

For operation when outside temperature is above 50F (15C), use SAE30 or 10W40 multigrade
For operation between 32F-50F (0C-15C) use SAE20, SAE20W or 10W40 multigrade
For operation below 32F (0C) use SAE10W or 10W40 multigrade

Your 20W50 will be too thick at operating temperature (it will be SAE50 equivalent at operating temperature), and will not provide adequate lubrication. I would go get the 10W40.

Oil.gif


Actually, the higher the oil viscosity rating number, the "thicker" the oil is. 20W/50 Oil is actually a higher viscosity (thicker) than the 10W/40. The reason to possibly avoid it, even during warmer weather, is that it will not be pumped into the engine quite as readily and quickly on cold starts because of it's higher viscosity. Basically 20W/50 acts like 20 weight oil when it's cold, but maintains viscosity like 50 weight when it's at "operating" temperature.


I'm a bit confused - I'm pretty sure that's what I was saying there. The thicker oil would cause high oil pressures within the engine, which could lead to insufficient oil flow and insufficient lubrication. Thinner oil could also cause insufficient lubrication.

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Oil Filter Housing Bolt

Postby montgomery63 » Tue Oct 19, 2010 8:17 am

I recently tried to change the oil filter on the 82 goldwing I just bought. Unfortunately, the bolt in the center of the oil filter housing is so stripped and mangled, I can't get it off to change the filter. Has anyone encountered this problem? Any suggestions? Thanks.

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Re: How to change your engine oil

Postby WingAdmin » Tue Oct 19, 2010 12:11 pm

First, get a new one - you can get one cheap here.

If you can get it off with some vice-grips, then that's the easiest way. Otherwise, you can drill and tap a hole into the center of it, thread a bolt down into it, then thread a jam nut down against it to tighten it in place. You might also put some red Loctite on it to ensure it doesn't come out - then back it out using the bolt and throw it away.

You can also try an EZ-Out, but they're brittle - and if it breaks, you're really in trouble.

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Re: How to change your engine oil

Postby luckychucky60 » Tue Oct 19, 2010 8:15 pm

Thanks for taking your time to post this informative article. Next time, I'm going to change my oil.
As long as I have my health then everything will be ok

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Re: How to change your engine oil

Postby rirons0625 » Sat May 21, 2011 6:25 pm

Just changed the oil in my 81 Interstate that I've had for about a month. Found that there was no spring or washer in my filter housing. I completed the oil change without them but I have found the spring and washer on bikebandit.com and do plan to order them. But can anyone tell me how crucial it is? Just wondering if I can wait until my next oil change to install them or if I need to do it immediately. Thanks for your input!

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Re: How to change your engine oil

Postby WingAdmin » Sat May 21, 2011 9:27 pm

rirons0625 wrote:Just changed the oil in my 81 Interstate that I've had for about a month. Found that there was no spring or washer in my filter housing. I completed the oil change without them but I have found the spring and washer on bikebandit.com and do plan to order them. But can anyone tell me how crucial it is? Just wondering if I can wait until my next oil change to install them or if I need to do it immediately. Thanks for your input!


The spring and washer are crucial. They are the bypass system for the oil - if the oil is too thick (i.e. when it is cold), instead of pressurizing the oil system to the point where a seal fails, it instead pushes the filter towards the front of the bike, which allows the oil to bypass the filter altogether. Once the oil thins out (as it warms up), the spring pushes the filter back into place, and it operates as designed.

In your case, running without a spring, as soon as your bike is started, the filter is pushed away (because there's no spring to stop it), and it never returns back to its original place. Your bike is running in bypass mode 100% of the time, so you're essentially running your bike without any filter at all.

You won't kill your engine, but it's certainly not good for it - and I'd encourage you to make VERY frequent oil changes until you do get the spring and washer in there.




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