How to remove and reinstall your rear wheel


Step-by-step tutorials on how to maintain and fix your GL1100
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wingwrench
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Re: How to remove and reinstall your rear wheel

Post by wingwrench » Sun Aug 16, 2015 9:55 pm



Awesome wright up ....! I did my front and rear bearings today on my 83 , 1100 a ... Great step by step great pics as well... a big help.... Thank you .. I didn't have a 3/4 bolt but I was able to grind down the head of a 1/2 in or 5/8 in .? Bolt that I did have... I just ground off the points of the he head and then cut the slot with a 3 inch air cut off wheel.... my bike is an 83 but it has saddle bags and trunk off a gl1500.... after driving the axle out I was able to remove the wood... take the air out of the tire ...pull the final drive out of the hub and then angle the wheel out from the side of the bike without ever removing the fender or saddle bags... This saved quite a bit of time not having to mess with it....


I also left the caliper and the entire bracket and bracket arm thing up in there on zip ties... and still managed to clean and regrease the slide pins... Then I realized I will need to order a new o ring for inside the final drive.... ! Unless any of you guys have ever matched one up at napa or something ...? Lowes maybqe....? Stinks to be grounded waiting on parts..... No way a I can reuse the old one though...it's in pretty rough shape ....



skybolt58
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Re: How to remove and reinstall your rear wheel

Post by skybolt58 » Sat Aug 22, 2015 10:29 pm

was wondering it I could use the chlorinated brake cleaner on the wheel hub splines and the final drive splines to remove the old grease?

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WingAdmin
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Re: How to remove and reinstall your rear wheel

Post by WingAdmin » Sun Aug 23, 2015 11:04 pm

skybolt58 wrote:was wondering it I could use the chlorinated brake cleaner on the wheel hub splines and the final drive splines to remove the old grease?
I do exactly this, however I use NON chlorinated brake cleaner. Chlorinated brake cleaner can be very hard on the delicate rubber seals in the final drive. Make sure it is completely evaporated before applying new grease.

wingwrench
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Re: How to remove and reinstall your rear wheel

Post by wingwrench » Sun Aug 23, 2015 11:22 pm

Update on the final drive o ring .. I was able to get an o ring at napa
It wasn't metric but standard 2 1/2 inch o ring....with a 3 mm thickness... seemed to fit pretty well and 4 or 5 hundred miles later I don't see any tell tail molly splashed on the rim... so seems like a good seal... I ordered the oem o ring from partszilla but couldn't wait for delivery.., so Next time I have the wheel off for what ever reason I'll have a back up o ring...

wingwrench
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Re: How to remove and reinstall your rear wheel

Post by wingwrench » Sun Aug 23, 2015 11:32 pm

On a side note.. I picked up a 1980 gl1100 that has front end damage ... Guy on craigslist bought it this past spring and got cut off by a young girl just about a month after he got it on the road.. It's been sitting since may with bent forks... runs but needs carbs cleaned...came with hondaline fairing trunk and bags... it needs a little love... I don't really need another project but the price was right and I couldn't pass it up...



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patbrandon1
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Re: How to remove and reinstall your rear wheel

Post by patbrandon1 » Wed Aug 26, 2015 1:56 pm

PLEASE HELP! While I was removing my rear wheel yesterday, I found this boot/grommet type thing on the floor. I believe it goes onto the brake caliper somewhere, but I could be mistaken. Below is a pic of the thing alongside a valve cap for size reference. If anyone can tell me what it is and where it goes, I'll send you some homemade cookies of your choice. :D Thanks for your time.
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WingAdmin
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Re: How to remove and reinstall your rear wheel

Post by WingAdmin » Wed Aug 26, 2015 5:36 pm

patbrandon1 wrote:PLEASE HELP! While I was removing my rear wheel yesterday, I found this boot/grommet type thing on the floor. I believe it goes onto the brake caliper somewhere, but I could be mistaken. Below is a pic of the thing alongside a valve cap for size reference. If anyone can tell me what it is and where it goes, I'll send you some homemade cookies of your choice. :D Thanks for your time.
It is the boot that fits into the caliper bracket, to protect the grease on the upper slider pin. See it in the image below:

Caliper slider boot
Caliper slider boot


jp98226
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Re: inadvertently removed spline drive nuts [dang]

Post by jp98226 » Mon Sep 07, 2015 3:22 pm

Greetings WingAdmin and all Others,

Yesterday I undertook the job of greasing my final drive (with genuine Honda moly 60!) on my ’83 GL1100I and, in my enthusiasm, I inadvertently and needlessly took off the five 14mm nuts retaining the slider pins on the final spline drive; the assembly on the opposite side of the rear wheel and brake disc. I did not remove or loosen the actual pins (whew), but I can’t find the torques specs in my Honda manual for the nuts and I’m hoping someone has those numbers, or a ballpark estimate. My internet search shows that, depending on nut grade, the “maximum” torque ranges from 60ft-lbs. to 158ft-lbs for low-grade to high-grade fasteners – yikes!

I was using a 1/2 inch ratchet and short extension when removing the nuts, and I remember having to pull fairly hard to loosened them; they probably have never been loosened before on this old, but babied low mileage bike – about 22,500 miles. For comparison purposes, the 12mm nuts (stamped grade 8) holding the rear brake disc, which I also removed unnecessarily (ugh), call for 22ft-lbs (internet says rated maximums being 59-72ft-lbs.), so I’m thinking the factory probably calls for a bit more torque on the 14mm slider pin nuts (no grade stamp apparent). Since this seems like a pretty critical assembly piece, I sure would like to get the re-torquing right and gain some piece-of-mind.

Thanks for whatever guidance you guys can give, and thanks to WingAdmin for the most excellent tutorials. I certainly would not have attempted this project (and others) without the pictorials and directions. I hope the answers which follow benefits some other “over-enthusiastic” disassemblers in the crowd.

red-faced,
john
jp98226

wingwrench
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Re: How to remove and reinstall your rear wheel

Post by wingwrench » Wed Sep 09, 2015 10:10 am

I am putting the bike back together after installing new swingarm bearings..rear wheel bearings ..final drive oil change and new moly 60 .. and I have a question about the 3 nuts that fasten the final drive to the drive shaft.. I didn't notice when I took it apart but one nut is slightly different then the other two.. Can't seem to figure out where that one goes....? Can any one give me the position/location of the odd nut... Top ? Bottom? Left.? Right? There is no note of it in the service manual . ? And I haven't figured out what makes the difference . ..? Any help would be greatly appreciated . ..? Thanks...Wingwrench...

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Re: How to remove and reinstall your rear wheel

Post by WingAdmin » Wed Sep 09, 2015 12:17 pm

wingwrench wrote:I am putting the bike back together after installing new swingarm bearings..rear wheel bearings ..final drive oil change and new moly 60 .. and I have a question about the 3 nuts that fasten the final drive to the drive shaft.. I didn't notice when I took it apart but one nut is slightly different then the other two.. Can't seem to figure out where that one goes....? Can any one give me the position/location of the odd nut... Top ? Bottom? Left.? Right? There is no note of it in the service manual . ? And I haven't figured out what makes the difference . ..? Any help would be greatly appreciated . ..? Thanks...Wingwrench...
All three nuts should be identical. If one is not, then someone has made a substitution at some point.

The Honda part number for those 10mm nuts is 90308-357-000 - they are locking type flange nuts. If you can't find one locally (which is a distinct possibility) you can get original Honda replacements from Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/HONDA-90308-357-0 ... ingdocs-20

wingwrench
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Re: How to remove and reinstall your rear wheel

Post by wingwrench » Wed Sep 09, 2015 1:34 pm

Well if you read the remove your gl1100 rear wheel wright up on this site it notes the one different nut... but not it's location... .. so one of em is different... not just my bike.. ?

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wingman12
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Re: How to remove and reinstall your rear wheel

Post by wingman12 » Wed Sep 09, 2015 3:51 pm

The larger rubber pc is for the brake caliper, the other one looks like the cap for the air valve on your tire?? :D :D

wingwrench
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Re: How to remove and reinstall your rear wheel

Post by wingwrench » Wed Sep 09, 2015 4:45 pm

If you look at the ...How To Remove and Reinstall you rear wheel article ..... all the way down at step 6 on the reinstall part of the article you will see what I'm talking about... There are two different size nuts... both have the gripper type locking flange... But one is a bit taller then the other... I have all 3 nuts.... 2 are identical and one is different.. But Im not sure from what stud I removed it from... Probably just need to get my eyeballs a little closer to figure it out.. But I thought someone may no its position from memory...?

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Re: How to remove and reinstall your rear wheel

Post by wingman12 » Wed Sep 09, 2015 5:08 pm

Hello Wingwrench, if my memory (it is starting to fail a little each day) the ones with the flange goes to install the final drive to the swing arm (3 nuts) the other one if to reinstall the shock to the stud. :D :D

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Re: How to remove and reinstall your rear wheel

Post by wingwrench » Wed Sep 09, 2015 5:52 pm

No.. that's a separate different nut all together.. there are 3 for the drive shaft to final drive connection . .. of theses 3 nuts one is different... and it goes on one of the 3 studs. For a reason.. . I have had this apart many times over the years.. I just lost track of where it goes this time.. Normally I would put the nuts back on the studs after separating the final drive from the drive shaft.. Then when it's time to reinstall you know where it needs to be... But for some reason I just dropped all 3 in my magnetic tray this time... and now don't know where it goes. If someone pops in that knows please post it... if not I will take a look ate my parts bike tomorrow after work .. Thanks again.. This site is great and everyone here so helpfull.. I took some pictures of the swingarm bearing change.. Maybe I can do a short wright up on the process with a few pics to help the next guy out...Not a whole lot to it but There are couple tips to get the drive shaft circle clips on and off... I took some pictures as well.. Also it would be my pleasure to contribute to the site...

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Re: How to remove and reinstall your rear wheel

Post by WingAdmin » Thu Sep 10, 2015 9:09 am

wingwrench wrote:No.. that's a separate different nut all together.. there are 3 for the drive shaft to final drive connection . .. of theses 3 nuts one is different... and it goes on one of the 3 studs. For a reason.. . I have had this apart many times over the years.. I just lost track of where it goes this time.. Normally I would put the nuts back on the studs after separating the final drive from the drive shaft.. Then when it's time to reinstall you know where it needs to be... But for some reason I just dropped all 3 in my magnetic tray this time... and now don't know where it goes. If someone pops in that knows please post it... if not I will take a look ate my parts bike tomorrow after work .. Thanks again.. This site is great and everyone here so helpfull.. I took some pictures of the swingarm bearing change.. Maybe I can do a short wright up on the process with a few pics to help the next guy out...Not a whole lot to it but There are couple tips to get the drive shaft circle clips on and off... I took some pictures as well.. Also it would be my pleasure to contribute to the site...
OK, I had a look to see where this confusion came from.

The parts fiche as well as the parts diagram all show the same nut, with the same part number. But looking at the pictures I took, it's clear one nut has a larger diameter flange than the other two. I even mentioned this:

Image

The nut with the larger flange will not fit on at least one stud (as I recall) due to clearance issues.

So this leads me to one of two conclusions:

1. Both my bike AND your bike had one of these nuts replaced by a previous owner

2. The factory shipped the bike with one different nut, and later changed it to use three identical nuts, updating the parts fiche to match.

Looking at the parts diagrams, all models of GL1000, GL1100 and GL1200 specify that these three nuts are identical. So I'm starting to think that the first option is probably the more likely one.

Can anyone else with a GL1100 confirm this?

topreyes3
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Re: How to remove and reinstall your rear wheel

Post by topreyes3 » Thu Sep 10, 2015 1:24 pm

:D Sir just wanted to let you know that I am new to the site but you and the rest of the forum personnel have been very very helpful with my 1986 gl1200 aspencade I retrieved it from a backyard wood storage and have slowly but surely have it running because of all the experience on this site when you show something or just explain something it is better then a manual, again thank you for the help you guys have provided. I was looking at my rear tire and found the air valve stem had a crack in it when I was checking the pressure if you did not move it, it is ok but if you touch it the air come, so thank you I can now take the rear tire off safely

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Re: How to remove and reinstall your rear wheel

Post by bikommuter » Thu Sep 10, 2015 6:10 pm

Hi Y'all,
I am the third ( or 4th or 5th) owner of my 1100. I cannot swear as to who or when it was serviced, but the grease was fairly thick and not all dried out, so I'm pretty sure it was serviced. When I did my rear tire, all three nuts on the final drive were exactly the same, so either they all came that way from the factory, or they were all changed at the same time. ;)

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Re: How to remove and reinstall your rear wheel

Post by patbrandon1 » Fri Sep 11, 2015 10:01 am

WingAdmin wrote:Looking at the parts diagrams, all models of GL1000, GL1100 and GL1200 specify that these three nuts are identical. So I'm starting to think that the first option is probably the more likely one.

Can anyone else with a GL1100 confirm this?
I changed my rear tire last week, and all three nuts are the same. When I replaced it three years ago, I also noticed in the how to that I didn't have a different flange on one of the nuts as stated. I feel that as long as the nut clears all the way to the bottom, and the torque is done right, this bit of a little larger flange is not an issue. My bike is a 1982 GL1100 Interstate

:idea: On an curious inspector note, when I noticed the first time that I didn't have a different sized flange on one of my nuts, I checked that there is enough clearance for any of the nuts to get down to the base of the swing arm. There is enough clearance on all of them for a slightly larger flange. SOOO, WingAdmins conclusions 1 & 2 are spot on but with a gun to my head answer, I would guess #2 would be the most likely. But hey, it is also possible that both previous owners had to replace a nut they lost.

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Re: How to remove and reinstall your rear wheel

Post by patbrandon1 » Fri Sep 11, 2015 10:49 am

topreyes3 wrote::D Sir just wanted to let you know that I am new to the site but you and the rest of the forum personnel have been very very helpful with my 1986 gl1200 aspencade I retrieved it from a backyard wood storage and have slowly but surely have it running because of all the experience on this site when you show something or just explain something it is better then a manual, again thank you for the help you guys have provided. I was looking at my rear tire and found the air valve stem had a crack in it when I was checking the pressure if you did not move it, it is ok but if you touch it the air come, so thank you I can now take the rear tire off safely
Welcome to one of the best, most friendly sites on the internet. Yes there are a bunch of great people willing to share their experience with us, and I am so impressed with all their kindness.

On a note about your valve stem. Rubber ones have to bend a bit when you check the pressure, and they get weather beaten, and crack. When you get your new tire put on, also save yourself some trouble and install these... http://cyclemax.com/inc/searchresults?s ... 3&n=274693


Take note that the link is only for visual purposes as your bike is different than mine. But you will find the size needed for your bike if you search well and/or contact Cyclemax.

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aznyaz
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Re: How to remove and reinstall your rear wheel

Post by aznyaz » Fri Sep 11, 2015 12:34 pm

I've had my rear wheel off several times for tire changes and noticed right off that the 3 nuts attaching the drive to the swing arm were all the same flange size and I have never had an issue with clearance.

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Re: How to remove and reinstall your rear wheel

Post by WingAdmin » Fri Sep 11, 2015 2:52 pm

aznyaz wrote:I've had my rear wheel off several times for tire changes and noticed right off that the 3 nuts attaching the drive to the swing arm were all the same flange size and I have never had an issue with clearance.
OK, I'm going to update this How To - it appears that two of us have a non-standard nut on the final drives of our GL1100's.

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Re: How to remove and reinstall your rear wheel

Post by wingwrench » Sat Sep 12, 2015 1:12 pm

Really having a hard time with this one.. I replaced bearings in my rear wheel... (1983 gl1100) and now the rear tire rubs the swingarm on the right side of the bike.. I thought maybe I damaged the new bearings installing them so after waiting a week for delivery I changed the bearings again..., making sure they where properly seated.. in there straight.. put everything back together and torque to spec... It still rubs on the swingarm on the right side where the drive shaft goes through ... I don't get it... !.? I think maybe the spacer that goes between the wheel and the brake caliper bracket are is not going into the wheel as far as it did with the original bearings? Causeing the wheel to sit slightly more to the right..? I Re placed the bearings twice... Taking great care to insure that they are fully seated... there is a stop in there... the bearings are all the way down to the stop... both sides.. but yet the spacer inside the hub is a bit loose... in other words the spacer is not touching the bearings on both sides of the wheel...I remember reading to drive them in until they come into contact with the spacer... But not to tight as to side load them .. Now how can that be if they are all the way down to the stops and still don't touch the spacer... It's been weeks and I am really Jones in for a ride...! Any help would be greatly appreciated . ., Thanks....Mike

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aznyaz
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Re: How to remove and reinstall your rear wheel

Post by aznyaz » Mon Sep 14, 2015 12:49 pm

When you bolt the final drive to the right swing arm that should get your wheel aligned properly. The wheel can't go any further to the right because of the final drive. There is a sleeve that goes inside the final drive. Is that in place?

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Re: How to remove and reinstall your rear wheel

Post by wingwrench » Mon Sep 14, 2015 3:42 pm

Thanks for the reply ... I got it sorted out.. The problem was I was trying to fit a 1981 swingarm the I bought on ebay.. (listed as 1980-1983 gl1100 swingarm.. ) when in reality the 81 swinger is ever so slightly different then the 83.... in that it is just a few millimeters narrow then the 83.. and only in the one spot where the tire crowns on the sidewall.. other then that one spot it is exactly the same.. It will bolt up just fine but the tire will rub just ever so slightly.. can't have that..! Of course I had to learn the hard way..! As I do most things in my life.. I cleaned it all up sanded off some light surface rust... touched up the paint.. took it to a shop and had them pull the bearings..FYI a blind hole bearing tool is required to remove the 30 year old bearings on these swingarms....Then I press in new allballs sealed bearings... Then I replaced the rear wheel bearings while I had it all apart...Put it all back together and found the tire rub and I thought maybe I didn't fully seat the wheel bearings and that was the cause of the off set.. so I did the rear wheel bearings again..., put it all back together a couple more times..! Before I removed everything again including the swing arm .. ! Anyway finally figured it out,,, all is well... lesson learned.. so if anyone here is planing on changing their squeeky old swingarm bearings a few things to keep in mind would be #1 ya can't put any old gl1100 swingarm in your bike.. gotta be from the sane year bike.... #2 if you plan on changing the 30 year old piviot bearings you will need access to a blind hole bearing tool... #3 you will need the speical honda tool or make one by grinding down a socket for the right side pivot bolt lock nut.... and last but not least #4 just because someone lists a part as fitting 1980 thru 1983 on ebay don't belive it...! Do your home work...! Hope this help the next guy to avoid the Hassel ,, on the bright side... no more squeeky squeek squeek ..



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