86 GL1200 SEi compressor removal procedure


Step-by-step tutorials on how to maintain and fix your GL1200
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Rusty Bike
Posts: 270
Joined: Sun Feb 28, 2016 1:55 pm
Location: New castle, PA
Motorcycle: 86 GL1200 SEi, 78 Yamaha XS750SE, 86 Honda XL125, 4.5 HP belt drive Minibike my dad built, foot clutch!

86 GL1200 SEi compressor removal procedure

Postby Rusty Bike » Mon May 30, 2016 1:43 pm



Compressor, dryer, and air distributor are located in right side of fairing.

Note: Get one of these, you'll need it.

http://www.amazon.com/STAMPING-EPL-6-6- ... ingdocs-20

On right side of bike as you sit on it: Remove fairing lower panel, fairing pocket, LED pressure readout panel, Speaker grill and speaker (pry out the little Honda sign to expose screw), front of fairing air duct grill (pulls out), rear of fairing adjustable air duct (pulls out) Note: these grills have catches built in that you can reach in and squeeze, to release the grills. Remove rubber air duct thru speaker hole, duct has a drain tube in bottom, just pull it out, make sure drain line is not clooged. Now you can see the pump assembly in its rubber housing.

Next unplug all wireing harness plugs in fairing pocket and remove LED pressure readout panel. Also unplug black horizontal plug going twords center of bike thru the fairing. The big vertical plug (white into black housing) can stay put. Pull wire harness coming from headlight area out thru front vent hole in faring to get it out of the way. Each plus is unique and can not be mixed up. There is a release catch that must be depressed for plugs to come apart. There is a bracket screwed to the fairing that holds the top of the air distributor pressure switch (black tube with wires) via a rubber ring. Remove the two bolts from outside the fairing, one is plated and one is brown. Leave the brown bolt in its hole, it is captive. Don't loose the plastic spacer on the plated bolt. Remove the bracket from the rubber mount. Soapy water , a drop of WD40 or Blaster will help release rubber from bracket.

Now for the fun part. Remove front and rear air lines from air distributor. These are located on bottom of fairing. You must hold the top brass part and unscrew the lines, flex joint. Get the wires out of the way and pull the air distributor part way up thru fairing pocket opening. Remove bolt on, air line and the push on bleed line. CAUTION: behind the bolt on, air line there is a check valve ball, seat and spring. Don't loose these! I put black tape over the hole to keep these parts in there after inspection. Now you can pull the air distributor out of the fairing. Next is the crown jewel, the compressor assembly. This is held onto the inner fairing panel by two rubber nubbs. These nubbs pass thru holes in the fairing. Nubs are located on two ears on the top of the compressor assembly boot. These are plainly visable thru the vent grill hole in front of fairing. Give the nubbs a shot of soap water or other ( I like soap water because it will not screw up rubber) and gently work the nubbs out of their holes. A forked tool would work great but I used two long screwdrivers from both front and rear of fairing. Compressor assembly is now free to remove out fairing pocket buy pulling it back and rolling clockwise so bottom of compressor boot is twords rear of bike. Pewww! Got it!

Compressor/ air drier notes: ID air lines before removal. Top cap of air drier must be reference marked with a punch or scribe before disassemble to ensure proper reassembly. Unit will not go back in fairing if air drier cap is rotated. Remove input air line and brass fitting from air drier cap and ensure check valve assembly if moving freely. There are four parts, Big spring, valve with rubber end, small spring, big brass cup/valve. These parts go in hole in order as above, big spring first. Remove air drier cap (three screws) big spring and filter assembly to remove pink descant. There is an inspection window in the rear of the air drier so you can see the desicant. If its pink, the desincate needs baked to dry it out, blue means it needs no service. There is another filter in bottom of drier can, make sure all filters are clean. Place descant in 350 deg, oven for 10 minuets to dry it out. The descant will turn deep blue when done. There is a small air intake filter on the air pump also, open the rubber canister and make sure intake filter is clean. Test air pump on bench with 12VDC. Green wire is negative. Careful, the plug is small and the sparks are big when you short the test leads! LOL

Reassembly is in reverse order of disassemble. Use your soapy water to lube rubber parts. This is a good time to use some spray contact cleaner on the electrical plugs then blow out with air line if available. Next put a gob of dielectric grease in all female connectors befor reconnecting them. This may save you a problem on the road some day. Note: The rubber vent duct is a SOB. Install the inner adjustable vent into the fairing opening first. Work the rubber duct thru the speaker opening and reconnect the drain line. Put rear of duct on vent flange first. The front of the rubber duct goes over the flange built into the fairing. Last you put in the front vent plastic grill. Pops right in. Make sure the plastic drain line for the duct goes thru the hole in the bottom of the fairing. You don't want water poring on the air distributor. Hope this helps.

You just saved several hundred bucks! Good Luck and Ride Safely...Rusty Bike



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