How to replace your air filter


Step-by-step tutorials on how to maintain and fix your GL1500
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WingAdmin
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How to replace your air filter

Postby WingAdmin » Fri Apr 20, 2012 5:26 pm



Replacing the air filter in your GL1500 is not too difficult a task, and is a good way to start getting acquainted with the insides of your motorcycle. You have two options when replacing your filter, both are around $30: you can use an aftermarket Emgo air filter, or the slightly pricier OEM Honda filter. You will need only a standard Philips screwdriver and a 10mm wrench or socket wrench to perform this maintenance.

As with so many procedures on the GL1500, you first need to remove your seat, and replace it at the end. For directions on this procedure, see How to remove and replace your seat.

1. Start by removing the soft cover from the left fairing pocket, then remove the four screws holding the pocket in place.

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2. Lift the pocket out of the fairing. If your pocket has a 12 volt outlet in it, you may need to disconnect it - or just let the pocket hang out the side by the wires.

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3. Unlock and remove the hard cover from the right fairing pocket.

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4. Remove the four screws holding the right fairing pocket in place.

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5. If your GL1500 is an SE, you will have a knob for the foot warmers. You'll need to remove the set screw for this knob, then pull the knob off in order to get the pocket out.

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6. Remove the pocket from the fairing.

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7. Remove the ignition switch cover by gently pulling up at the bottom as shown until the posts disengage from the rubber grommets. Then release the tabs at the top and remove the cover.

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8. Remove the left top inner cover by pulling the tab free at the rightmost edge as shown.

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9. Follow by pulling each tab free in sequence until you get to the front tab.

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10. This tab locks in place - be careful not to break it. Next, remove the right top inner cover the same way as you removed the left side.

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11. Open the fuel filler door and identify the two plastic locking tabs near the front of the opening.

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12. Rotate the tabs as shown to unlock the radio shelter.

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13. Using a 10mm wrench or socket, remove the two acorn nuts holding the back end of the radio shelter in place.

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14. Lift the back end of the radio shelter free of the studs.

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15. Release the tabs at the front left and right sides of the radio shelter from the fairing.

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16. Lift the radio shelter - you will see the wires that connect the radio to the motorcycle. Carefully turn the radio shelter upside down.

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17. Lift the rubber boot to expose the connectors for the radio.

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18. Depress the locking tabs on each connector and pull it free from the radio. Pull on the connector, never on the wires! The antenna (round wire) does not have a locking tab, it just pulls free.

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19. Remove the radio shelter and set it safely aside.

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20. Lift the clip holding the air intake to the air filter box. Disconnect the green intake air sensor connector (if present).

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21. Pull the air intake away from the air filter box.

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22. Remove the three screws at the back of the air filter box.

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23. Remove the two screws on either side of the air filter box.

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24. Remove the two screws at the front of the air filter box.

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25. Lift the cover free and slide it to the front of the bike to remove it.

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26. Lift the old air filter free of the air filter box, sliding it out towards the front of the bike. If any dirt or contaminants fall into the air filter box, remove them (a vacuum cleaner works well for this) before installing the new filter.

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27. Position the new filter ahead of the air box, and slide it down into the air filter box.

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28. Position the cover and slide it into place over the new filter from the front of the bike.

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29. Replace all of the screws holding the cover in place. Reconnect the green intake air sensor connector (if present).

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30. You may want to use a magnetic screwdriver to replace the two screws on the sides - you don't want to drop these screws down into the side of the bike, or you'll need to remove bodywork to retrieve it.

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31. What's this? The air filter box is a favorite place for squirrels to store nuts and mice to make nests. More than an inconvenience, they can chew through the filter media, allowing contaminants to be pulled into the carburetors and even the engine, causing costly damage. Many people have discovered sights like this when they have opened their air filter boxes.

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32. To avoid this problem, we will be using a piece of galvanized 1/4" "landscape fabric" - basically galvanized steel mesh. It's important that it is galvanized, to prevent corrosion.

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33. Cut a piece to cover the air intake with a small amount extending on each side.

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34. Bend the ends around the air intake to hold it securely in place.

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35. When in place, it prevents entry by vermin into the air box, but does not impede air flow.

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36. Replace the air intake at the front of the air box.

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37. Snap the retaining latch on to hold the air intake in place.

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38. Retrieve the radio shelter and turn it over. Carefully snap each connector back into place. Make sure the antenna connector is securely fastened.

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39. Pull the rubber boot down over the connectors, and make sure it is held in place over the tab in the metal bottom of the radio.

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40. Flip the radio shelter right side up and position it in place. Make sure the front tabs go into their slots at the front of the fairing.

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41. Lower the radio shelter over the studs.

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42. Make sure the locking tabs are still in the inward (unlocked position).

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43. Replace and tighten the acorn nuts to hold the shelter in place.

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44. Now rotate the locking tabs outward to lock the shelter in place.

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45. Insert the front tab of each inner cover into the dashboard.

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46. Gradually work around each inner cover starting at the front and working your way around to the inner back, putting each tab into its slot.

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47. Replace the ignition cover by inserting the front tabs into their slots, then rotating the back down into place, pushing the posts into their grommets.

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48. Replace the right fairing pocket and screw it into place.

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49. If equipped, reinstall the foot warmer knob and its set screw.

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50. Reinstall the left fairing pocket and screw it into place. Make sure the intercom lead wire is positioned correctly in the pass-through before screwing it into place.

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Bobwquinn
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Joined: Sun Nov 11, 2012 4:07 pm
Location: Shediac, New Brunswick, Canada
Motorcycle: 1997 Goldwing GL1500

Re: How to replace your air filter

Postby Bobwquinn » Sun Nov 11, 2012 7:32 pm

I've just replaced my air filter with a K&N HA-8088 (and fuel filter at same time) on my wing today! It was my first major change on my own and would not have attepted if not for your step by step pictures and directions. Thank you so much for a wonderful description. I will attempt more as I scroll thru your articles!

Bob

celford30
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Re: How to replace your air filter

Postby celford30 » Sat May 31, 2014 11:49 pm

Thanks Big Time
Saw your DIY display and read about how if your Bike spends a lot of time outside, varmints will take advantage of the free nesting area inside the air chamber. Well it was time to change my air filter and low and behold there were nuts and leaves everywhere, so I pick up some wire mesh. After cleaning out the thrash and installing a new K&N filter, I blocked off the intake. Now some furry four fiend is homeless and a bike is safe. Thanks 8-)

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GoldWingRev
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Re: How to replace your air filter

Postby GoldWingRev » Wed May 13, 2015 7:02 pm

As always, our fearless admin has done a bang up job of a tutorial. That's why this site is superior to the others. That and the ads aren't as annoying here :)

Did the air filter change, noticed my Wing now makes a "growl", like there's a resonance chamber on it. I opened up the air box to see a K&N, but replaced it with the Emgo I had as I couldn't feel motivated to clean and oil the K&N (it needs heavy cleaning and I do live in an apartment complex sans garage). I thought that I hadn't sealed the box properly, so I just opened it up again, sealed it (and added the aluminium mesh), and it STILL makes that noise. Could this just be the new filter, and the sound it makes? It doesn't bother me, but I know what my bike is supposed to sound like.

I noticed gaps, like the ones pictured. I presume there are from the 27 years the bike has been heated, cooled and ridden, but can anyone just set my mind at ease about these?
Gap
Gap


Also used this tutorial to swap the fuel filter. Hoping these two, the air filter in particular, will get the fuel return my mates see (40 MPG+ consistently).

The second picture is something I found on the bottom, left (shifter side) of the radio shelter. Does anybody know what it is or why it is there?
My finger and the oddity
My finger and the oddity

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WingAdmin
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Re: How to replace your air filter

Postby WingAdmin » Thu May 14, 2015 9:31 am

It's possible that the new filter just flows air a little easier, and allows intake noise through.

The gap on the air box should not be there if it is seated correctly - is it possible the K&N was a bit too tall and the cover was bent up as a result? Or even the Emgo? I know the Emgo filter made for my GL1100 was a bit too tall, and caused the air box cover to have a gap at the sides like this. It's not a huge deal, because the exposed area is on the unfiltered side of the filter, so it's not like it's sucking unfiltered air directly into the engine. That said, it's also possible that is where you're hearing the noise emanate from.

As for the mystery item - my radio had it as well. My guess is that it's a cable stay, to keep wires up and prevent them from being pinched? Perhaps the ground wire? But I can't really say for sure, because mine (like yours) was not being used for anything.

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Sawdust62
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Re: How to replace your air filter

Postby Sawdust62 » Mon May 25, 2015 3:16 pm

Just bought my first Goldwing (1999) three weeks ago and decided to do some preventive maintenance since I don't know how well the previous owner took care of the bike. Your DIY articles are better illustrated and described than the Job Guides I use to maintain $85 million dollar aircraft in the military. I just had to share the photos I took while changing my air filter. Glad I trailered the bike to get it home to Atlanta rather than ride for 12 hours from the guy I bought it from, considering the condition of the air filter.
Somebody was living in the bike.
Somebody was living in the bike.

You show this plug in your photos, but never said to disconnect it.
You show this plug in your photos, but never said to disconnect it.

I didn't have the mesh to make the critter blocker, so I drilled 1mm holes and threaded stainless steel .020 wire through the holes.  May not be as pretty, but does the job.
I didn't have the mesh to make the critter blocker, so I drilled 1mm holes and threaded stainless steel .020 wire through the holes. May not be as pretty, but does the job.

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WingAdmin
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2007 Aspen Sentry Trailer

Re: How to replace your air filter

Postby WingAdmin » Tue May 26, 2015 10:42 am

Sawdust62 wrote:Just bought my first Goldwing (1999) three weeks ago and decided to do some preventive maintenance since I don't know how well the previous owner took care of the bike. Your DIY articles are better illustrated and described than the Job Guides I use to maintain $85 million dollar aircraft in the military. I just had to share the photos I took while changing my air filter. Glad I trailered the bike to get it home to Atlanta rather than ride for 12 hours from the guy I bought it from, considering the condition of the air filter.


Definitely looks like you had a small, winged tenant living in your bike!

Good point about the air temperature sensor connector, I added that to the instructions.

I like your safety wire mesh! It works.

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Sawdust62
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1999 Kawasaki ZG1000 Concours (Sold) missing it already...:(
2004 Kawasaki VN1500 Vulcan
1982 Honda CB900C (Sold)

Re: How to replace your air filter

Postby Sawdust62 » Mon Jun 01, 2015 7:32 pm

GoldWingRev wrote:As always, our fearless admin has done a bang up job of a tutorial. That's why this site is superior to the others. That and the ads aren't as annoying here :)

The second picture is something I found on the bottom, left (shifter side) of the radio shelter. Does anybody know what it is or why it is there?


I've seen devices like this on other machinery. It's a cable stay to tie off, or zip tie, the wire bundle so that it takes the strain off the connectors. Wiring is most susceptible to failure at the point where the wire is crimped into the connector contacts. At one time, probably at the factory, there would have been zip ties or some other fastener to hold the wire bundle in place on that "T" shaped stay.

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mstcitabria73
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Re: How to replace your air filter

Postby mstcitabria73 » Fri Apr 22, 2016 11:55 am

Preparing to replace my fuel/air filters in a few days and found this site very helpful, thanks. On step 10 you show a pic of the plastic locking tab. Is there a method or technique when removing the locking tab from the slot to help avoid bending or breaking it off?

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WingAdmin
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Re: How to replace your air filter

Postby WingAdmin » Fri Apr 22, 2016 5:05 pm

mstcitabria73 wrote:Preparing to replace my fuel/air filters in a few days and found this site very helpful, thanks. On step 10 you show a pic of the plastic locking tab. Is there a method or technique when removing the locking tab from the slot to help avoid bending or breaking it off?


I put my finger underneath it, pull the tab down from behind, then pull it straight backward. It usually pops out fairly easily.

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mstcitabria73
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Re: How to replace your air filter

Postby mstcitabria73 » Sat Apr 23, 2016 5:08 am

WingAdmin wrote:
mstcitabria73 wrote:Preparing to replace my fuel/air filters in a few days and found this site very helpful, thanks. On step 10 you show a pic of the plastic locking tab. Is there a method or technique when removing the locking tab from the slot to help avoid bending or breaking it off?


I put my finger underneath it, pull the tab down from behind, then pull it straight backward. It usually pops out fairly easily.


WingAdmin thanks for the information and quick reply! My 1997 GW ran great till one morning i tried starting it up only to find it would not not idle below 2000 rpm but was running excellent the day before. Opened the rear trunk to discover a pile of chokecherry's the size of a basketball had been placed there overnight and my guess is the mice also got up into airbox and packed it with chokecherry's too. Purchased some 1/4 x 1/4 galvanized mesh wire and will install per your instructions to prevent any further winter storage by them critters! Will post pics later of what i find stored in the airbox/filter.Thanks for your help and a great website for GW owners!

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mstcitabria73
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Location: Caribou, Maine USA
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Re: How to replace your air filter

Postby mstcitabria73 » Sat Apr 23, 2016 2:31 pm



nasty air filter was packed solid on 1/2 side other side was crapped out too, damn varmint's, lol! Installed 1/4 x 1/4 galvanized wire mesh, thanks for the easy solution to fix this problem!

doxbike
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Joined: Sat Nov 05, 2011 6:17 am
Location: laguna beach,ca
Motorcycle: 1500 aspencade

Re: How to replace your air filter

Postby doxbike » Mon Aug 22, 2016 8:56 pm

Wing stuff shows different air filters for a california bike vs 49 state. Are they really different? California one is $5 cheaper




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