How to replace your cruise and sub air filters


Step-by-step tutorials on how to maintain and fix your GL1500
  • Sponsored Links
User avatar
WingAdmin
Site Admin
Posts: 17050
Joined: Fri Oct 03, 2008 4:16 pm
Location: Strongsville, OH
Motorcycle: 2000 GL1500 SE
1982 GL1100A Aspencade (sold)
1989 PC800 (wife's!)
1998 XV250 Virago (sold)
2007 Aspen Sentry Trailer

How to replace your cruise and sub air filters

Postby WingAdmin » Mon Apr 30, 2012 2:56 pm



Most people don't even know that these air filters exist in their GL1500. You say "air filter" and they think that big thing on top that filters the air going to the engine.

There are actually two more air filters that need servicing on a regular basis:

Sub air filter

The sub air filter is a foam filter that filters the air before it reaches the air injection solenoids, and from there the carburetors. This filter tends to deteriorate and fall apart, sending foam particles through the solenoids and into the carburetors. This can cause poor performance and carburetor problems. The part number for the filter is 17253-KT8-000 and it can be purchased from vendors such as Cyclemax for around $3.

Cruise air filter

The cruise air filter is also a foam filter, that filters the air before it reaches the solenoids that control the cruise control. The part number is 36532-MN5-005, and it too can be purchased from vendors such as Cyclemax for around $3.

Unfortunately, reaching both of these filters involves a bit of disassembly. No problem though, we'll walk you through the steps.

1. First off, if you have any accessories that need to be removed before you can remove the lower cowls, do so now. In my case, I have a set of wind wings that I need to remove.

Image

2. I also have a set of air horns that need to be disconnected, loosened, and pivoted out of the way.

Image

3. Gently pull the inner edge of the lower cowl screw cover away from the screw head.

Image

4. Be very careful removing these covers - pulling them back too far will snap the tab off of the outer edge. See how the tab hooks into the cowl. Gently rotate the inner edge back, then pull it straight out.

Image

5. Remove the lower cowl screw.

Image

6. Gently remove the lower cowl deflector. It pulls out approximately one inch at the bottom, then is pulled straight down to disengage the top tab, then is pulled straight back to disengage the front tab.

Image

7. This is the top tab that needs to be disengaged.

Image

8. And this is the front tab.

Image

9. To remove the fairing front cover, press inward at the center of the top of the cover. This will expose the posts seated in the grommets at the top corners.

Image

10. Gently pull the top corners away, one at a time, to unseat the posts from their grommets. Note the black tab that is holding the front of the lower cowl in place - it's important that the lower cowl is fitted back behind these tabs when it is replaced.

Image

11. Once both posts are unseated, remove the front cover.

Image

12. Remove the screws on either side of the under cover.

Image

13. While holding the under cover in place, remove the center screw.

Image

14. Pull the under cover away.

Image

15. The side marker light trim needs to be removed next. OEM Honda trim is black plastic and looks different than my aftermarket chrome trim. My trim has screw caps that must be removed to access the screw heads.

Image

16. Remove the three screws holding the trim and the marker light in place.

Image

17. Once the screws and marker light are free, the lower cowl will easily pull away. If you have cornering lights, press the locking tab on the connector and disconnect the cornering light wire. Repeat steps 15 and 16 to remove the lower cowl on the other side of the motorcycle.

Image

18. Remove the right side cover. Start by pulling the bottom front post free from its grommet.

Image

19. Next pull the bottom rear post free. Pull the bottom slightly toward you - but not too far, or you risk snapping off the remaining post! Pull the cover free from the metal post at the top front, then gently work the top rear post free of its grommet, and pull the side cover away.

Image

20. Pull the front side cover free of its grommet.

Image

21. Pull the front side cover to the rear to disengage its locking tab, the pull it away from the bike. Repeat steps 18 through 21 to remove the left side covers.

22. Remove the seat as described in How to remove and replace your seat.

Image

23. Remove the soft cover from the left fairing pocket, then remove the four screws holding the pocket in place.

Image

24. Lift the pocket out of the fairing. If your pocket has a 12 volt outlet in it, you may need to disconnect it - or just let the pocket hang out the side by the wires.

Image

25. Unlock and remove the hard cover from the right fairing pocket.

Image

26. Remove the four screws holding the right fairing pocket in place.

Image

27. If your GL1500 is an SE, you will have a knob for the foot warmers. You'll need to remove the set screw for this knob, then pull the knob off in order to get the pocket out.

Image

28. Remove the pocket from the fairing.

Image

29. Remove the ignition switch cover by gently pulling up at the bottom as shown until the posts disengage from the rubber grommets. Then release the tabs at the top and remove the cover.

Image

30. Remove the left top inner cover by pulling the tab free at the rightmost edge as shown.

Image

31. Follow by pulling each tab free in sequence until you get to the front tab.

Image

32. This tab locks in place - be careful not to break it. Next, remove the right top inner cover the same way as you removed the left side.

Image

33. Open the fuel filler door and identify the two plastic locking tabs near the front of the opening.

Image

34. Rotate the tabs as shown to unlock the radio shelter.

Image

35. Using a 10mm wrench or socket, remove the two acorn nuts holding the back end of the radio shelter in place.

Image

36. Release the tabs at the front left and right sides of the radio shelter from the fairing.

Image

36. Lift the back end of the radio shelter free of the studs. The reason for lifting the shelter is to release the fairing rear side panels. The radio shelter does not need to be fully removed in order to do this - simply lifted up. Put a tool, block, or other small object under the radio, to keep the radio shelter lifted several inches, to give access to the fairing rear side panels. Note that in the pictures that follow, the shelter is actually removed, to allow better access for photographs.

Image

37. Peel back the rubber cover from the back of the reverse lever (if equipped). Insert a hex driver or allen key and remove the hex bolt fastening the reverse lever to the bike.

Image

38. Remove the reverse lever from the bike.

Image

39. Pull the side trim off of the fairing rear lower cover on both sides.

Image

40. Remove the two screws fastening the top of each of the left and right fairing rear lower covers in place.

Image

41. Using a wrench or a deep 10mm socket, remove the studs from the side of the fairing rear lower covers.

Image

42. Remove the screw from the front side of the fairing rear lower covers.

Image

43. Pull the left fairing rear lower cover free. Peel back the rubber boot of the CB connector, depress the locking tab, and pull the connector free. Pull the antenna connector free. Always pull on the connectors, never the wires! Set the left fairing rear lower cover aside.

Image

44. Pull the right fairing rear lower cover free. Depress the locking tab of the air pressure console and pull the connector free. Set the right fairing rear lower cover aside.

Image

45. Time to start changing filters! With a 10mm wrench, loosen the sub air filter housing bolt, located on the right side.

Image

46. Remove the filter housing. The hose can be left connected, but try not to bend it too sharply.

Image

47. Depress the locking tabs on the housing and remove the bottom to expose the old filter.

Image

48. Remove the old filter. You can see that as soon as I removed this filter, it crumbled in my fingers.

Image

49. The new filter needs to be soaked in oil before installation. The gear oil used in the final drive is a good oil to use, failing that, regular engine oil will work as well. Saturate the filter with oil, then squeeze it out until it is no longer dripping.

Image

50. Reinsert the new filter into its carrier and snap it back into place.

Image

51. Replace the sub air filter housing and tighten the retaining bolt.

Image

52. Locate the cruise solenoid valve assembly, on the left side. The cruise filter is contained within the "L" shaped piece at the back.

Image

53. Pull the filter housing free of the solenoid valve assembly.

Image

54. Pull the old filter out, and push the new filter into the housing in its place. This filter does not require oiling.

Image

55. Snap the filter housing back into place.

Image

56. Reconnect the air pressure console and replace the right fairing rear lower cover. Make sure that when the cover is put into place, that the lever assembly that controls the hot/cold setting of the lower air vent properly engages the pin that actuates the blend door.

Image

57. Reconnect the CB main and antenna connectors, and replace the right fairing rear lower cover. Make sure that when the cover is put into place, that the lever assembly that controls the hot/cold setting of the lower air vent properly engages the pin that actuates the blend door.

Image

58. Replace the screw on the front side of the fairing rear lower covers.

Image

59. Replace the studs on the sides of the fairing rear lower covers.

Image

60. Replace the screws fastening the tops of the fairing rear lower covers.

Image

61. Replace the side trim off of the fairing rear lower cover on both sides and press into place until it locks.

Image

62. Replace the reverse lever (if equipped). Make sure the lower pin in the (shown in the picture) fits into the hole below the threaded area before engaging the bolt in the crank. Also make sure the two "teeth" on the lever fit snugly and fully into the cutouts on the crank.

Image

61. Tighten the lever into place, making sure the teeth seat fully into the crank cutouts. Replace the rubber boot over the back of the lever.

Image

62. Pull out the block or support that is keeping the radio shelter raised, and lower it over the studs.

Image

63. Make sure the locking tabs are still in the inward (unlocked position).

Image

64. Replace and tighten the acorn nuts to hold the shelter in place.

Image

65. Now rotate the locking tabs outward to lock the shelter in place.

Image

66. Make sure the tabs at the front left and right sides of the radio shelter insert into their slots in the fairing.

Image

67. Insert the front tab of each inner cover into the dashboard.

Image

68. Gradually work around each inner cover starting at the front and working your way around to the inner back, putting each tab into its slot.

Image

69. Replace the ignition cover by inserting the front tabs into their slots, then rotating the back down into place, pushing the posts into their grommets.

Image

70. Replace the right fairing pocket and screw it into place.

Image

71. If equipped, reinstall the foot warmer knob and its set screw.

Image

72. Reinstall the left fairing pocket and screw it into place. Make sure the intercom lead wire is positioned correctly in the pass-through before screwing it into place.

Image

73. Reconnect the cornering light connectors in the lower cowls (if equipped). Place the lower cowls back into position. Ensure the innermost tab (with the hole in it) fits behind the black tab protruding down from the radiator grill mentioned in step 10. This holds the front of the lower cowl in place.

Image

74. Replace your side marker light and trim, and screw it into place.

Image

75. Replace your screw caps (if you have them).

Image

76. Replace the lower cowl deflector. Insert the front tab first, then the top tab, then slide the deflector to the left to line up the screw holes.

Image

77. Tighten the lower cowl screw.

Image

78. Replace the lower cowl screw cover - insert the tab first, then press fit it over the screw head.

Image

79. At this point you would repeat the procedure on the other side of the bike. Once that is complete, lift the under cover into place.

Image

80. Insert the center screw to hold the under cover in place.

Image

81. Ensure the posts at the front, on the bottom of the lower cowls fit into the holes on the top of the under cover (visible at the front edge where the lower cowl and under cover meet) - on both sides! Once the posts are in place, replace and tighten the screws on either side.

Image

82. Make sure the tabs at the bottom of the front cover fit behind the ridge of the under cover, and that the tab on the bottom center of the front cover fits into the slot in the under cover. Align the front cover, then press the posts on either side into their respective grommets.

Image

83. Push the forward side cover's tab into its slot, then push it into its grommet.

Image

84. Replace the side cover, starting at the top, then pushing the lower posts into their grommets. Repeat steps 83 and 84 for the other side.

Image

85. Replace the seat as described in How to remove and replace your seat.

Image



User avatar
RBGERSON
Posts: 2625
Joined: Tue Mar 09, 2010 7:57 am
Location: SCOTTSDALE, AZ
Motorcycle: 98 SE GL 1500
had every year from 75 to 83

Re: How to replace your cruise and sub air filters

Postby RBGERSON » Mon May 14, 2012 11:55 am

OMG!!! just to get to two little foam filters..who engineered these things.

Just bought my first 1500...1000's and 1100's are so much easier to work on..wonder what 1800 are like!!!~
HAD LOTS OF GOLDWING 75-83
NOW INTO 1500'S..RIDING A 1998 SE

FAIR WINDS,
RB

User avatar
WingAdmin
Site Admin
Posts: 17050
Joined: Fri Oct 03, 2008 4:16 pm
Location: Strongsville, OH
Motorcycle: 2000 GL1500 SE
1982 GL1100A Aspencade (sold)
1989 PC800 (wife's!)
1998 XV250 Virago (sold)
2007 Aspen Sentry Trailer

Re: How to replace your cruise and sub air filters

Postby WingAdmin » Mon May 14, 2012 12:56 pm

RBGERSON wrote:OMG!!! just to get to two little foam filters..who engineered these things.

Just bought my first 1500...1000's and 1100's are so much easier to work on..wonder what 1800 are like!!!~


Ask someone who has to change the air filter in an 1800. :)

User avatar
Mag
Posts: 1298
Joined: Sun Mar 25, 2012 11:58 am
Location: Silverlake, WA
Motorcycle: 1982 Yamaha Venture (Crashed/Sold)
1982 1100 Silver Goldwing (sold)
1989 1500 Beige Goldwing (sold)
1988 1500 Beige Goldwing (current ride)

Re: How to replace your cruise and sub air filters

Postby Mag » Mon May 14, 2012 11:36 pm

I believe I have to take off the side panels of the fairing to unplug and plug in my handlebar switches, so .... now is the time to check those filters? Ugh. Something else to buy, lol.

Good timing on the pics, I knew there was some directions around here somewhere on taking apart the fairing. Thx for this.

User avatar
WingAdmin
Site Admin
Posts: 17050
Joined: Fri Oct 03, 2008 4:16 pm
Location: Strongsville, OH
Motorcycle: 2000 GL1500 SE
1982 GL1100A Aspencade (sold)
1989 PC800 (wife's!)
1998 XV250 Virago (sold)
2007 Aspen Sentry Trailer

Re: How to replace your cruise and sub air filters

Postby WingAdmin » Tue May 15, 2012 10:33 am

Just a quick note - I helped out with the local GWRRA chapter's "Maintenance Day" this past weekend, and one of the tasks I helped one of the GL1500 owners with was changing these filters. He said that he had changed both filters a year ago, and when we pulled his sub filter out, it was in the same shape as mine was - crumbling into bits when touched. So perhaps this item needs to be replaced more often than the 24,000 miles specified in the service manual.

Image

User avatar
m2102
Posts: 295
Joined: Thu Mar 22, 2012 7:02 pm
Location: pontiac,illinois
Motorcycle: new to me 1800 wing

Re: How to replace your cruise and sub air filters

Postby m2102 » Fri Jul 20, 2012 8:55 pm

wow,and iwas half way there when i did my plugs. gonna have to get the filters and check mine,don't no if they have ever been changed,thanks wingadmin

vargas35@live.com
Posts: 8
Joined: Sun Jul 22, 2012 8:12 pm
Location: Houston, Texas
Motorcycle: 1989 GL1500

Re: How to replace your cruise and sub air filters

Postby vargas35@live.com » Sat Aug 25, 2012 9:18 am

Trying this out (for now), local auto parts store had some foam tire dressing applicators for $1.99? Pulled out the block of foam (which was pretty similar to the element used in lawn mower air boxes), cut to fit, put some oil on the sub filter and installed (no oil on the L-shaped cruise filter).
I'm thinking that it will do and will hopefully last at least as long as the originals. Just bought this ('89) with approx 37k miles from an estate. After ther carb rebuild, system flush, and fuel pump, so far-so good. Will test ride this weekend :D
Foam sub filters
Foam sub filters

User avatar
Mag
Posts: 1298
Joined: Sun Mar 25, 2012 11:58 am
Location: Silverlake, WA
Motorcycle: 1982 Yamaha Venture (Crashed/Sold)
1982 1100 Silver Goldwing (sold)
1989 1500 Beige Goldwing (sold)
1988 1500 Beige Goldwing (current ride)

Re: How to replace your cruise and sub air filters

Postby Mag » Sat Oct 06, 2012 9:36 pm

Just want to say....
- I have 44k miles on my bike
- Bike year is 1988
- The subfilters crumbled when I removed them from their compartments (literally crumbled, it was weird)
- Really easy to replace (if you already have the fairing pieces off the bike)
- I do not know what they do, but they must serve SOME purpose, so, change them.

I do not know what they do to the bike but...
- If they improve performance......change them

;)

User avatar
WingAdmin
Site Admin
Posts: 17050
Joined: Fri Oct 03, 2008 4:16 pm
Location: Strongsville, OH
Motorcycle: 2000 GL1500 SE
1982 GL1100A Aspencade (sold)
1989 PC800 (wife's!)
1998 XV250 Virago (sold)
2007 Aspen Sentry Trailer

Re: How to replace your cruise and sub air filters

Postby WingAdmin » Sun Oct 07, 2012 10:15 am

Mag wrote:Just want to say....
- I have 44k miles on my bike
- Bike year is 1988
- The subfilters crumbled when I removed them from their compartments (literally crumbled, it was weird)
- Really easy to replace (if you already have the fairing pieces off the bike)
- I do not know what they do, but they must serve SOME purpose, so, change them.

I do not know what they do to the bike but...
- If they improve performance......change them

;)


If you read the very top of the first post on this article, it describes the function of these filters.

I have seen these filters crumble after having only been in service for ONE YEAR. They're so cheap, I may add them to my annual maintenance schedule, seeing as I have the bike apart anyway, and they are easily accessible.

User avatar
Mag
Posts: 1298
Joined: Sun Mar 25, 2012 11:58 am
Location: Silverlake, WA
Motorcycle: 1982 Yamaha Venture (Crashed/Sold)
1982 1100 Silver Goldwing (sold)
1989 1500 Beige Goldwing (sold)
1988 1500 Beige Goldwing (current ride)

Re: How to replace your cruise and sub air filters

Postby Mag » Sun Oct 07, 2012 10:59 am

I hope I do not have to take apart the bike that much, but may have to. I am just proud that I did it, lol. I am wondering if the one sub filter is what is making my cruise control all goofy, I am thinking it is more of a switch issue but we will find out.

For now, I am putting the bike back together, probably right for the rainy season to start. ;)

User avatar
Dwight_n_Sue
Posts: 34
Joined: Mon Apr 23, 2012 8:12 pm
Location: Rockford, Illinois
Motorcycle: '96 GoldWing GL1500 SE w\ 2004 Lehman GTL Trike conversion

Re: How to replace your cruise and sub air filters

Postby Dwight_n_Sue » Wed Apr 17, 2013 8:01 am

Thanks for your hard work and information. I ordered my filters yesterday from Cyclemax. I was lucky to find this article while I still had the covers off for an air filter and fuel filter change. I think Cyclemax warned me it could take several days to access the filters because they need to order them from Honda as they are not stocked. So I ordered a pair and will save the other set for next year.

On a side note, Your bike is the same color scheme as my '96 SE. The lower cowl screw cover on the left side (as I look forward) is missing. Any clue as to how I can replace it?

Again thanks for your efforts and a job well done.

User avatar
Mag
Posts: 1298
Joined: Sun Mar 25, 2012 11:58 am
Location: Silverlake, WA
Motorcycle: 1982 Yamaha Venture (Crashed/Sold)
1982 1100 Silver Goldwing (sold)
1989 1500 Beige Goldwing (sold)
1988 1500 Beige Goldwing (current ride)

Re: How to replace your cruise and sub air filters

Postby Mag » Wed Apr 17, 2013 10:13 am

Morning D&S...

A quick fix on your screw issue, take the one from the right side and go to the local hardware store....I have a True Value that I went to for most of my screw replacements, and for anything more difficult, there is an Ace Hardware that had a whole room full of hardware (it was just 10 miles further down the road).

When I take stuff apart, I seemed to lose a couple screws along the way (no comment) so I did not lose too much time getting the bike back together.

User avatar
WingAdmin
Site Admin
Posts: 17050
Joined: Fri Oct 03, 2008 4:16 pm
Location: Strongsville, OH
Motorcycle: 2000 GL1500 SE
1982 GL1100A Aspencade (sold)
1989 PC800 (wife's!)
1998 XV250 Virago (sold)
2007 Aspen Sentry Trailer

Re: How to replace your cruise and sub air filters

Postby WingAdmin » Wed Apr 17, 2013 11:01 pm

Mag wrote:Morning D&S...

A quick fix on your screw issue, take the one from the right side and go to the local hardware store....I have a True Value that I went to for most of my screw replacements, and for anything more difficult, there is an Ace Hardware that had a whole room full of hardware (it was just 10 miles further down the road).

When I take stuff apart, I seemed to lose a couple screws along the way (no comment) so I did not lose too much time getting the bike back together.


Yup, I've got quite a few True Value screws and bolts in various places on my bike. Both to replace missing ones, and also replace stripped/damaged ones.

User avatar
Dwight_n_Sue
Posts: 34
Joined: Mon Apr 23, 2012 8:12 pm
Location: Rockford, Illinois
Motorcycle: '96 GoldWing GL1500 SE w\ 2004 Lehman GTL Trike conversion

Re: How to replace your cruise and sub air filters

Postby Dwight_n_Sue » Thu Apr 18, 2013 6:02 am

Thank you Mag and WingAdmin for your quick responses. I was referring to the elongated plastic cover for the screw that holds the cowl cover on. After my initial posting I sat and thought about my predicament and decided I was a big boy and could find it myself. I used CycleMax as a source and through their drawings breakdown I was able to find it. (CAP, L. DEFLECTOR *NH326P* (PEARL GLACIER WHITE) 64296-MT2-000ZS). After shipping around $45. Ouch but it has to

User avatar
WingAdmin
Site Admin
Posts: 17050
Joined: Fri Oct 03, 2008 4:16 pm
Location: Strongsville, OH
Motorcycle: 2000 GL1500 SE
1982 GL1100A Aspencade (sold)
1989 PC800 (wife's!)
1998 XV250 Virago (sold)
2007 Aspen Sentry Trailer

Re: How to replace your cruise and sub air filters

Postby WingAdmin » Thu Apr 18, 2013 6:39 am

Dwight_n_Sue wrote:Thank you Mag and WingAdmin for your quick responses. I was referring to the elongated plastic cover for the screw that holds the cowl cover on. After my initial posting I sat and thought about my predicament and decided I was a big boy and could find it myself. I used CycleMax as a source and through their drawings breakdown I was able to find it. (CAP, L. DEFLECTOR *NH326P* (PEARL GLACIER WHITE) 64296-MT2-000ZS). After shipping around $45. Ouch but it has to


Oh, ouch. I know exactly what part that is, because I replaced one of mine after it fell off last year!! I put some adhesive on them, so they won't fall off again - too expensive to be replacing!

User avatar
m2102
Posts: 295
Joined: Thu Mar 22, 2012 7:02 pm
Location: pontiac,illinois
Motorcycle: new to me 1800 wing

Re: How to replace your cruise and sub air filters

Postby m2102 » Thu Apr 25, 2013 9:46 am

Dwight-n-Sue, if still looking for that cover cyclemax has them unpainted or you can try niehause.com. mite be able to get one painted. i'm going to niehause on may 17 for a big customer days and need to look for one too. mike is candy apple red.

User avatar
m2102
Posts: 295
Joined: Thu Mar 22, 2012 7:02 pm
Location: pontiac,illinois
Motorcycle: new to me 1800 wing

Re: How to replace your cruise and sub air filters

Postby m2102 » Thu Apr 25, 2013 9:50 am

I see that nufinish cream scroll across the screen and I have used it and it works very well. after I got done using it the bike looked brighter, color stood out a little more. good stuff. didn't mean to steal this thread but just had to say something

User avatar
m2102
Posts: 295
Joined: Thu Mar 22, 2012 7:02 pm
Location: pontiac,illinois
Motorcycle: new to me 1800 wing

Re: How to replace your cruise and sub air filters

Postby m2102 » Thu Apr 25, 2013 9:56 am

now for the reason I was on this thread to start with. yesterday I decided to change out my sub filters. wow, a lot of Tupperware to come off for a tiny filter. couldn't believe how small they were. the L shaped one looked like it was new so didn't change that one,but the flat one was a different story. had a couple holes in it and practically fell apart when I took it out. glad I looked at them,

User avatar
Dwight_n_Sue
Posts: 34
Joined: Mon Apr 23, 2012 8:12 pm
Location: Rockford, Illinois
Motorcycle: '96 GoldWing GL1500 SE w\ 2004 Lehman GTL Trike conversion

Re: How to replace your cruise and sub air filters

Postby Dwight_n_Sue » Thu Apr 25, 2013 3:30 pm

m2102 wrote:Dwight-n-Sue, if still looking for that cover cyclemax has them unpainted or you can try niehause.com. mite be able to get one painted. i'm going to niehause on may 17 for a big customer days and need to look for one too. mike is candy apple red.


Thanks for the offer but I have one on order from CycleMax. I ordered white. I think they then place an order thru Honda so I may be waiting awhile. And, as WingAdmin mentioned, they will be held in place with an adhesive.

glengleason
Posts: 6
Joined: Fri Aug 14, 2009 6:43 pm
Location: hart mi.
Motorcycle: 2012 1800 goldwing

Re: How to replace your cruise and sub air filters

Postby glengleason » Fri Aug 16, 2013 8:04 am

glad I found your article and pictures on how to replace the sub filters plan on doing it this weekend. Thanks again.
glen

User avatar
Kactus59
Posts: 27
Joined: Thu Mar 31, 2011 6:27 am
Location: Eastham, MA
Motorcycle: 1998 GL1500 SE

Re: How to replace your cruise and sub air filters

Postby Kactus59 » Wed Jan 01, 2014 9:41 pm

I too need to get her opened up and replace those filters, as I have owned my 98 SE 1500 for 3 years now and I know that they have not been addressed. Just curious though as to why soaking it in oil and isn't the oil going to speed up the deterioration process that keeps showing up? With all the filter technology out there I would think that someone would come up with a longer lasting material. I am glad that you have given such a thorough how to article for us to follow and I thank you for it. I will have to get some filters ordered and get the job done.

User avatar
m2102
Posts: 295
Joined: Thu Mar 22, 2012 7:02 pm
Location: pontiac,illinois
Motorcycle: new to me 1800 wing

Re: How to replace your cruise and sub air filters

Postby m2102 » Wed Jan 01, 2014 9:59 pm

no real need to order filters Kactus59, just get a new lawn mower foam air filter .that's what i used and works great. the one on the right side is about 1"x 2"x 1/8". the one on the left side, as sitting on bike, is a little thicker and L shaped. lot to take off to get to small filters

User avatar
Kactus59
Posts: 27
Joined: Thu Mar 31, 2011 6:27 am
Location: Eastham, MA
Motorcycle: 1998 GL1500 SE

Re: How to replace your cruise and sub air filters

Postby Kactus59 » Thu Jan 02, 2014 5:59 am

Thanks m2102. I'll check my local ace store for filter material. I agree, a lot to remove to get at anything I do on this bike. But, it's a pretty bike!

User avatar
m2102
Posts: 295
Joined: Thu Mar 22, 2012 7:02 pm
Location: pontiac,illinois
Motorcycle: new to me 1800 wing

Re: How to replace your cruise and sub air filters

Postby m2102 » Thu Jan 02, 2014 7:25 am

happened to think of a second option for filter material, you can use a large foam paint brush also. less trimming and work just as well

dmcdaniel130
Posts: 1
Joined: Wed Apr 16, 2014 10:40 am
Location: Marshall, MN
Motorcycle: 1992 GL1500A Aspencade

Re: How to replace your cruise and sub air filters

Postby dmcdaniel130 » Tue Jun 03, 2014 2:49 pm

Thanks to all on the pictures, I just repaced the Air Filter, Sub Filter,Cruise Filter, and Fuel Filter, the info was great. Thanks much.




Return to “GL1500 DIY Articles”




Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest