DIY Cheap Common Negative Ground / Hot Blocks


Step-by-step tutorials on how to maintain and fix your GL1800
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WingzRider
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DIY Cheap Common Negative Ground / Hot Blocks

Post by WingzRider » Thu Jul 02, 2015 7:49 am



Hi All. New Member Here. Firstly, I'd like to say thanks to the forum-board owners/admins & all members. This forum is truly great.

I was cleaning up some PC Stuff & ran across these old pics & figured I'd share the idea in case anyone else is interested. On prior GL1800s, I paid (way too high) bookoo bucks for Negative Ground Blocks from the custom-parts-stores. On my 3rd ('09 GL1800 Comfort/Navi/XM) I decided to forego aesthetics for that which usually remains unseen anyway, and put the $ saved toward more gas in the tank. The install was 6 yrs ago, so apologies for no longer having the manufaturer's name, but these type of terminal junction blocks are commonly found at Marine Supply stores. Total cost under $10, if that much.

The negative ground block is attached via a small piece of flat-strap metal, to the battery hold-down bolt. Note the terminal block channels are separated from each other by a raised ridge in the body of the block. The metal bridge-jumper clips solve that, and one terminal-ended jumper wire across the 2 channels provides electrical continuity to any-all terminal screws. The terminal screws are long enough that if desired you can even attach multiple wire terminal-rings to a single terminal screw. In this pic, there are 4 negative grounds attached to the block, and the "jumper wire" is tucked between the bottom of the ground block and the top of the battery case.


The same idea works equally well for positive "hot blocks". I made this "hot block" up for higher-amp-draw items BEFORE I subsequently installed an aftermarket Accessory Fuse Panel on a lift tray in the rear trunk's sub-floor compartment. It's a tad more "spaghettish" than I'd usually prefer aesthetics-wise, but again, "ask me if I care" . . . after 45 yrs in the saddle, methinks function is taking priority over cosmetics (at least for the mostly-unseen). I almost regret spending the minimal extra $ for nifty glow-when-blown fuses in clear transparent rubberized fuse-holders. I've ridden through some pretty horrendous "monsoons" in the "Sunshine State", and with this hot-block on the battery case, I haven't had a short or blown a fuse in 6 years and counting. When it comes time to change out the battery, I slap a new piece o' velcro on, apply a coupla zip-ties so the fuse holders lay nice & flat, and after 5 extra minutes of effort I'm singin' that ol Canned Heat song again :) (The rubber-capped plug for the Gerbing heated jacket-liner, that's layin' loose near the bottom of pic, of course, sits right inside the side cover vent-hole when the side cover's installed).





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WingzRider
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Re: DIY Cheap Common Negative Ground / Hot Blocks

Post by WingzRider » Thu Jul 02, 2015 7:53 am

How come the Ad appears below my post? Is there any way I can prevent ads from appearing in my posts?

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NVSB4
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Re: DIY Cheap Common Negative Ground / Hot Blocks

Post by NVSB4 » Thu Jul 02, 2015 9:12 am

First, welcome to the forum. It's nice to see someone jump in with suggestions instead of questions. :D

I like your solution to increase the ground points available. I'll probably add this on my "nice to have / to do sometime" list.

On the "hot block", quite a few of us use a product that WingAdmin reviewed here EC Power Plate
It offers a nice solution for individually fused terminals

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NVSB4
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Re: DIY Cheap Common Negative Ground / Hot Blocks

Post by NVSB4 » Thu Jul 02, 2015 9:13 am

WingzRider wrote:How come the Ad appears below my post? Is there any way I can prevent ads from appearing in my posts?
The ads are just part of the forum and are used to help fund the operations.
Consider it a necessary evil I guess.
It's never too late to have a happy childhood!

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Re: DIY Cheap Common Negative Ground / Hot Blocks

Post by WingAdmin » Thu Jul 02, 2015 12:26 pm

I have the EC Power Plate hot block, but I have done almost exactly the same thing for a negative terminal, using a barrier terminal like this:


I used a 10-gauge wire from the negative terminal on the battery to the first terminal on the top, then jumpered each of the top terminals to its next door neighbor also using 10-gauge wire.

The various accessories requiring a ground are then screwed into the terminals on the bottom (each of which is connected to the corresponding top terminal).

I mounted it to the frame right above the battery.

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Re: DIY Cheap Common Negative Ground / Hot Blocks

Post by WingAdmin » Thu Jul 02, 2015 12:33 pm

Oh, if you do get the EC Power Plate, make sure you replace the relay - read what I wrote here: viewtopic.php?f=18&t=10890#p134869

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WingzRider
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Re: DIY Cheap Common Negative Ground / Hot Blocks

Post by WingzRider » Fri Jul 03, 2015 2:52 am

Thanks to all repliers. I'm familiar with the EC vendor, have long been a fan of them since they make so many items that are perfect solutions for common desires of GL1800 owners. Although I must say in the incidental case of WingAdmin's followup comment about the necessity of replacing the EC fuse panel's relay, I found that to be somewhat surprising. Especially the coverup logo sticker on the relay, which apparently had its own intended purpose too.

In my case, since I already had a hot-block on the battery case for high-draw accessories, I had long ago installed an additional accessory fuse panel in the rear trunk's sub-floor compartment, for lower-draw items. (I use an MP3 player via the factory AUX channel, and didn't want/don't have the factory CB or CD changer, so the trunk sub-floor compartment was empty). I mounted the fuse panel on a velcro-secured "lift tray" shelf that still gives me access to both the upper & lower sub-floor compartments. I also mounted one 12V power socket on the lift tray itself. To that socket, I attach a 12V adapter which gives me 3 power port sockets in the main trunk. What I like about my fuse panel is that its blade fuses have 3 (not 2) rows of female blade receptacles. Each circuit can be made switched or unswitched power simply by moving the position of the inserted fuse. One o' these days, when I get one o' those "Round Tuit" thingies, I'll move the battery case hot-block into the trunk's sub-floor compartment too. I've been sayin' that for years, lol. I guess when something works well enough for my needs, them free-time Round Tuit Thingies can get kinda scarce. When free time happens, "I'd rather be Riding" :lol:

Acc Fuse Panel & Pwr Socket On Lift Tray
Acc Fuse Panel & Pwr Socket On Lift Tray


3 Handy Pwr Sockets In Main Trunk
3 Handy Pwr Sockets In Main Trunk


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williamson_l
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Re: DIY Cheap Common Negative Ground / Hot Blocks

Post by williamson_l » Sat Jan 02, 2016 3:01 am

First, welcome!

In the picture below you can see in the lower right corner is the ground buss that I installed under the seat. It is connected directly to the battery's negative post.

In the top right you can see I also installed a solid state relay for my aux switches. The relay is powered off the accessory fuse of the bike to energize the relay coil. This insures that there is minimum current draw on the bike's electrical system. All of the power required by the aux switches comes directly off of the battery. At 11.5Vdc the relay will drop out and still allow me to start the bike. I also used the glow indicator fuses like you.

The power supply to the load side of the relay directly from the battery has a 10A fuse. The power to the two switch housings each have a 5A fuse. And as I said before, the control relay is fused off the bike's fuse panel with the stock 1A fuse.

In addition to that, when something else is installed to a switch, that will have the item's own fuse too. (Typically that comes with the item.)

The coiled up wires are for the switches not yet in use.

With so much electronics on the Goldwing, I want to try and keep all the additional loads from the bike's factory circuits as much as possible.
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