Interior trunk lighting...


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Mh434
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Interior trunk lighting...

Post by Mh434 » Sat May 03, 2014 12:13 am



I found that the interior of the trunk on my GL1500 was needing some lighting. I looked at all kinds of different ways to do it, but I wasn't happy with the majority of them. Finally, I stumbled across a set of Pilot "LED Flexi-lite" Pilot brand, part # 041-6040-0...although my Google-fu can't find them on the 'net by that part number - (it appears to have been succeeded by part #CZ-177W), and they looked like they'd fit the bill. There are two to a package (cheap, too!), peel-'n-stick mounting, waterproof, and can be cut if desired.

Interestingly enough, the packaging includes a "Try Me" button & a box to power it. These items are intended to be simply discarded, but I couldn't resist looking inside the little black box. Inside were 10 AG-13 type batteries - the same type I had just paid $5 each for to rejuvenate my digital calipers! Okay, a 5-year supply is mine now! Plus, the switch is a really nice momentary push button unit that I'll certainly make use of.

Of course, I couldn't just be satisfied with simply having a nicely lighted trunk. I had to have the lights come on when the trunk is opened, and turn off when it's closed! I looked at many different ways of doing this, most of them unbelievably complicated. Finally, I stumbled across something in my old box of electrical bits and pieces - a Radio Shack magnetic reed switch, like the ones for security alarms (i.e., door contact switches). The beauty of these is that no mechanical operation is required - when a magnet is near the switch, it turns the circuit off. When the magnet is moved away, the circuit is live again.

I stuck the reed switch under the overhanging lip of the main part of the trunk, at the top edge on the right side. Then I mounted a small right-angle piece of metal (screwed to the underside of the trunk lid, using the existing screw that secures the wing on top of the lid), and just stuck a dime-sized rare-earth magnet to it. The metal angle piece was fabricated from some cast-off steel banding, used for bundling lumber. No need to glue the magnet on - it has a tenacious grip to the metal bracket, and it will NOT move.

Anyway, here's a brief video... 8-) Sorry it's a little crappy - cell phone video...






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MikeB
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Re: Interior trunk lighting...

Post by MikeB » Sat May 03, 2014 5:55 pm

Great job and excellent post.
I did something similar but used three strings of lights that I bought from Oznium http://www.oznium.com. They are as good and as reasonable at furnishing LED strips as Super Bright http://www.superbrightleds.com LEDS.

Since I always have my trunk luggage bag in the trunk, I needed light on both sides as well as on the front of the trunk wall. The reason being, when I open the trunk luggage flap, it would cover the set of lights on the forward wall.
I also added a strip of LEDS to each saddlebag while I was at it. The mercury switch supplies power to them as well.
To turn the lights on and off, I used a Mercury Switch that I found on Ebay. They are quite reasonably priced and they ship from Cleveland, Ohio so transit time is relatively short.
They sell for $7.47 with free shipping. If you need more than one, they have a set of five for $29.99 with Free Shipping.
Ebay Item numbers are 110782756227 and 110465889203 respectively.
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Re: Interior trunk lighting...

Post by WingAdmin » Sun May 04, 2014 8:54 am

I did the same thing, on the trunk and both saddlebags. I tapped into the power for the bike, and used the "NC" side of a SPDT reed switch to control it. I used these LED strips, which are REALLY REALLY bright.

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Re: Interior trunk lighting...

Post by Big Blue UK » Fri May 09, 2014 9:08 pm

I switched mine by tapping the earth wire from the lights into the bikes existing micro switches on the top box and panniers locks
If at first you don't succeed, hide the evidence.

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Mh434
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Re: Interior trunk lighting...

Post by Mh434 » Sat May 10, 2014 12:50 am

I wish there were switches on the Gl1500's bags & trunk, but unfortunately there aren't. It sure would have been easier that way! MikeB, above, had a great idea with the mercury switch, IMHO. I've since ordered some on EBay (5, for around $3 including shipping), as I figure on lighting up the inside of the bags, as well, now. :roll:

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Re: Interior trunk lighting...

Post by speedy04 » Mon May 08, 2017 12:40 am

Ok I know this is an old tread but I've been thinking how to do this same thing for my '82 Aspy. I have a toggle switch that used to control some driving lights. The PO removed them but left the switch and wires inside the fairing. Would it be possible to use that same switch to control some strip led lights mounted in the trunk and bag? I don't want to leave the lights on all the time, but I need some light to see inside the trunk and bags at night.

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Re: Interior trunk lighting...

Post by cyberlon » Mon May 08, 2017 12:47 am

Since the switch was originally set up for driving lights, it may require the key engaged to work. Also, it may not, but it's something to think about.

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Re: Interior trunk lighting...

Post by Mh434 » Mon May 08, 2017 2:30 am

In the end, I didn't use a mercury switch. I heartened back to my RC scale ship modelling days, when I needed to have hidden switches for various things. I used to use alarm system magnetic contact door switches, and that's what I did this time. The switch housing is on the side lip of the trunk, and there's a magnet on the inside of the lid. When the lid is opened, the magnet moves away from the switch, contact is made, and the light comes on (I did use an LED light strip).

The contact switches are readily available (think Radio Shack, here), cheap (under $1.00, IIRC), waterproof, and will ONLY activate when the magnet is moved away an inch or more. My magnet is attached simply - I have a small steel strip (made from the strapping used to hold bundles of shingles together) attached to the trunk lid using an existing screw, and the magnet holds itself onto the metal strip...no glue etc. required.

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Re: Interior trunk lighting...

Post by minimac » Mon May 08, 2017 8:24 am

Nice post and good idea.....but I'm too lazy! I use one of the Harbor Freight freebie L.E.D. lights when I need to light up the trunk. A small 4 pack of AA batteries and I'm good for at least a year. One of these days I'll get around to doing it the right way like you did.

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Re: Interior trunk lighting...

Post by WingAdmin » Mon May 08, 2017 10:03 am

Mh434 wrote:In the end, I didn't use a mercury switch. I heartened back to my RC scale ship modelling days, when I needed to have hidden switches for various things. I used to use alarm system magnetic contact door switches, and that's what I did this time. The switch housing is on the side lip of the trunk, and there's a magnet on the inside of the lid. When the lid is opened, the magnet moves away from the switch, contact is made, and the light comes on (I did use an LED light strip).

The contact switches are readily available (think Radio Shack, here), cheap (under $1.00, IIRC), waterproof, and will ONLY activate when the magnet is moved away an inch or more. My magnet is attached simply - I have a small steel strip (made from the strapping used to hold bundles of shingles together) attached to the trunk lid using an existing screw, and the magnet holds itself onto the metal strip...no glue etc. required.
I did the exact same thing, but I didn't use alarm contact switches, I used very tiny reed switches (same technology, much smaller package).

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Mh434
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Re: Interior trunk lighting...

Post by Mh434 » Mon May 08, 2017 11:03 am

Well, that's 'cause you're WAAAAY more technologically adept than I am!! :lol:

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CrystalPistol
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Re: Interior trunk lighting...

Post by CrystalPistol » Tue May 09, 2017 8:15 am

Quick & dirty, use a "stick up" battery powered light.

I too have often used mercury switches for lighting trunks, some times in line with a toggle in my police cars.
Image

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Re: Interior trunk lighting...

Post by speedy04 » Tue May 09, 2017 1:01 pm

I do like the magnetic switch idea, but I already have a toggle switch wired and doing nothing but sitting on the faring. It's easily accessible plus it has an indicator light that will tell me when the lights are on. Also what about mounting a water proof "plug" some how to bags and trunk so when doing routine maintenance I don't have to pull the lights or wires? Something similar to this...https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinf ... ccessories.

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Re: Interior trunk lighting...

Post by Mh434 » Tue May 09, 2017 1:33 pm

I was concerned about my trunk lights staying on if I needed to leave the trunk open for a long period of time. I have a second magnet (actually, the other half of the magnetic reed-type alarm system switch) which I can place over the mounted half, with a small strip of Velcro. This turns the lights off, as long as it's in place. If I forget to remove it, the trunk lid pushes it off & it falls into the trunk, so I won't lose it.

A previous owner had installed an always-hot power point (cigarette lighter socket) in the trunk, with a snug grommet for the wires & insulated spade connectors for the wires. I tapped into those (inside the trunk) for my power, so when I disconnect the wires for the outlet (outside the trunk), it also disconnects the trunk lighting at the same time.

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Re: Interior trunk lighting...

Post by offcenter » Tue May 09, 2017 4:05 pm

My '99 SE has a lighted ladies makeup mirror in the trunk. It has it's own pushbutton
so the light only comes on when you open the mirror.
Seems to me that I could wire into that unit with a few LEDs in both the trunk
and saddlebags.
Need light? Open the Makeup mirror and they would all come on.
The mirror has a incandescent bulb in it now.
If I replace that bulb with a LED, the switch and wiring should
have no trouble handling LEDs in the trunk and saddlebags.
....another project for when I get a "round tuit".
George in Jersey.
99 Goldwing GL-1500 SE
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Re: Interior trunk lighting...

Post by WingAdmin » Wed May 10, 2017 9:18 pm

Mh434 wrote:I was concerned about my trunk lights staying on if I needed to leave the trunk open for a long period of time. I have a second magnet (actually, the other half of the magnetic reed-type alarm system switch) which I can place over the mounted half, with a small strip of Velcro. This turns the lights off, as long as it's in place. If I forget to remove it, the trunk lid pushes it off & it falls into the trunk, so I won't lose it.

A previous owner had installed an always-hot power point (cigarette lighter socket) in the trunk, with a snug grommet for the wires & insulated spade connectors for the wires. I tapped into those (inside the trunk) for my power, so when I disconnect the wires for the outlet (outside the trunk), it also disconnects the trunk lighting at the same time.
I thought about that, but did some calculations and decided it wasn't an issue.

The current being drawn by the LEDs is 41 mA. My battery has a 25 AH capacity. So a little math tells me that the trunk lights would have to be left on for 610 hours, or 25 days, before it killed my battery. I'm pretty sure I won't be doing that anytime soon.

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Re: Interior trunk lighting...

Post by Rednaxs60 » Wed May 10, 2017 9:45 pm

Light for the trunk on my'85 LTD already installed. Has a light with an on/off switch, a contact switch for on when trunk open and off when closed, and a small tab that the contact switch uses.

Here is a picture of the light with a switch:
Here is a picture of the contact switch:
Here is a picture of the contact switch tab:
Not certain, but could probably also find one from an ASPY as well - years '84 to '85.

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Re: Interior trunk lighting...

Post by Mh434 » Thu May 11, 2017 1:22 am

WingAdmin wrote:
Mh434 wrote:I was concerned about my trunk lights staying on if I needed to leave the trunk open for a long period of time. I have a second magnet (actually, the other half of the magnetic reed-type alarm system switch) which I can place over the mounted half, with a small strip of Velcro. This turns the lights off, as long as it's in place. If I forget to remove it, the trunk lid pushes it off & it falls into the trunk, so I won't lose it.

A previous owner had installed an always-hot power point (cigarette lighter socket) in the trunk, with a snug grommet for the wires & insulated spade connectors for the wires. I tapped into those (inside the trunk) for my power, so when I disconnect the wires for the outlet (outside the trunk), it also disconnects the trunk lighting at the same time.
I thought about that, but did some calculations and decided it wasn't an issue.

The current being drawn by the LEDs is 41 mA. My battery has a 25 AH capacity. So a little math tells me that the trunk lights would have to be left on for 610 hours, or 25 days, before it killed my battery. I'm pretty sure I won't be doing that anytime soon.
Well, that's true - although it would require considerably less time to draw the battery down enough so the engine wouldn't start...IIRC, once the battery's down to 11.5-11.0 volts, she'll crank over, but won't start. When I'm at home, that wouldn't be an issue, as the bike's always hooked up to a battery tender. When traveling though, that's not always the case, and if it's parked for 3 or 4 days...

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Re: Interior trunk lighting...

Post by MikeB » Thu May 11, 2017 1:47 am

The mercury switch has never failed me.
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Re: Interior trunk lighting...

Post by Mh434 » Thu May 11, 2017 1:53 am

Yeah, but I'll bet the lights are going on & off under acceleration, braking etc.!! :lol: On a bumpy road, it probably looks like a disco in there! Not that it matters, of course, as long as they're off when it's parked & the lid is closed.

My wife teased me that I had no way of knowing if the lights were actually going off when my trunk was closed. In response, I put my phone on "video", started it up, put it in the trunk, and closed the lid. That satisfied her curiosity!

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Re: Interior trunk lighting...

Post by WingAdmin » Thu May 11, 2017 2:33 pm

Mh434 wrote:Yeah, but I'll bet the lights are going on & off under acceleration, braking etc.!! :lol: On a bumpy road, it probably looks like a disco in there! Not that it matters, of course, as long as they're off when it's parked & the lid is closed.

My wife teased me that I had no way of knowing if the lights were actually going off when my trunk was closed. In response, I put my phone on "video", started it up, put it in the trunk, and closed the lid. That satisfied her curiosity!
I did the same thing to fix a problem with my dishwasher. It only happened when the thing was running, and in order for it to run, the door had to be shut.

So...I put a flashlight inside a ziploc bag for illumination, and put a waterproof camera in it, then started it up!




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Re: Interior trunk lighting...

Post by Mh434 » Thu May 11, 2017 2:55 pm

Leakage at the bottom of the spray wand, causing low pressure in the jets, perhaps?

Nice way of checking!!

I have to be careful doing things involving the dishwasher now, ever since my wife came home early & caught me running a set of wire wheel covers through the machine on "pots and pans" cycle. Man, did they come out sparkling clean, though!! :D :roll: :lol:

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Re: Interior trunk lighting...

Post by WingAdmin » Mon May 15, 2017 7:50 pm

Mh434 wrote:Leakage at the bottom of the spray wand, causing low pressure in the jets, perhaps?

Nice way of checking!!
That's precisely what the problem was, and the diagnosis. :)

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Re: Interior trunk lighting...

Post by Stantheman55 » Fri May 19, 2017 10:32 am

ok so what was the exact problem with the dish washer :?:
leakage at the spray arm????
or getting caught putting the wire wheel covers in there on pots and pans? :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

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Re: Interior trunk lighting...

Post by WingAdmin » Tue May 30, 2017 7:50 pm

I thought I would take some pictures of my trunk/saddlebag lighting. My lights are connected to an always-on circuit, so they work whether or not the bike is turned on.
This is the magnet actuator on the trunk base. It is bonded in place with 3M VHB foam tape.
This is the magnet actuator on the trunk base. It is bonded in place with 3M VHB foam tape.
The magnet switch is mounted in the trunk lid, also with VHB foam tape. It is a DPST switch, so I use the NC contacts to actuate the light - which means the lights come on when the magnet is not close to the switch, and turn off when the magnet comes close to the switch.
The magnet switch is mounted in the trunk lid, also with VHB foam tape. It is a DPST switch, so I use the NC contacts to actuate the light - which means the lights come on when the magnet is not close to the switch, and turn off when the magnet comes close to the switch.
Four small white 12 volt LEDs put out a lot of light, especially on a dark night. I used aluminum tape meant for furnace ductwork to fasten the wires to the lid, as it has high-temperature adhesive and does not get gooey and fall off when the bike gets hot in the sun. The LEDs are mounted on the "back" of the trunk lid, so they face downwards when the trunk lid is raised.
Four small white 12 volt LEDs put out a lot of light, especially on a dark night. I used aluminum tape meant for furnace ductwork to fasten the wires to the lid, as it has high-temperature adhesive and does not get gooey and fall off when the bike gets hot in the sun. The LEDs are mounted on the "back" of the trunk lid, so they face downwards when the trunk lid is raised.
For the saddlebag, the magnet is mounted at the top of the back end of the swing-out lid, next to the latch, using VHB foam tape.
For the saddlebag, the magnet is mounted at the top of the back end of the swing-out lid, next to the latch, using VHB foam tape.
The magnet switch is mounted inside the saddlebag, with VHB foam tape.
The magnet switch is mounted inside the saddlebag, with VHB foam tape.
I used the same four white LEDs for the saddlebag, which produce more than enough light while drawing almost no power.
I used the same four white LEDs for the saddlebag, which produce more than enough light while drawing almost no power.



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