Oil changes


Technical information and Q&A applicable to all years and models of Goldwings
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ainsy
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Oil changes

Postby ainsy » Thu Sep 22, 2011 9:11 pm



Just bought another Wing - 82 Espencade - previous owner was running synthetic - can I change back to a regular oil or will this cause problems . ???



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RoadRogue
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Re: Oil changes

Postby RoadRogue » Fri Sep 23, 2011 12:10 am

you should have no problems,synthetics are compatable with dino oil. I use Chevrons Delo 400le 15w40, others like Shells Rottela T. Any oil produced today is going to be superior to what was availible when your bike was made.

Ride safe,Todd
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trike lady
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Re: Oil changes

Postby trike lady » Fri Sep 23, 2011 9:36 am

You can return to using regular oil in your Wing without any problem. I use Honda GN4 in my GL1500 and as the second owner it has stayed on the original diet of regular oil.
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TheArtist
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Re: Oil changes

Postby TheArtist » Fri Sep 23, 2011 12:14 pm

Ant time you switch oils it is best to due an oil flush. Drain the oil, put in the new oil and warm up the motor. Redrain and change filter, refill with new.
The main reason is, the bases might not be compatable.

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WingAdmin
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Re: Oil changes

Postby WingAdmin » Fri Sep 23, 2011 1:13 pm

TheArtist wrote:Ant time you switch oils it is best to due an oil flush. Drain the oil, put in the new oil and warm up the motor. Redrain and change filter, refill with new.
The main reason is, the bases might not be compatable.


All dino and synthetic motor oils are compatible..that said, a flush isn't a bad idea. I did this last year and was horrified at what came out. I drained the oil, put in new oil, along with a can of Seafoam. I ran this for half an hour, then drained the "new" oil. The Seafoam had dislodged so much sludge and crap from within the engine, that what came out was a horrific, filthy grey color. I now plan to do this once a year from now on.

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eklimek
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Re: Oil changes

Postby eklimek » Fri Sep 23, 2011 2:55 pm

" Product XXX dislodged so much sludge and crap from within the engine, that what came out was a horrific, filthy grey color. I now plan to do this once a year from now on"

My spider senses tingle when personal testimonials are left dangling. As a guest of this blog I would like to demonstrate courtesy but am compelled to suggest however informative,they may also be misleading. All such additives are essentially solvents and will result in a similar appearance to the effluent oil.

Here are some examples

CSF53
Isopropanol 30%
Diacetone Alcohol 10%
Xylene 60%

Techron Concentrate
Distillates, hydrotreated light < 50 %weight Aka: Paint thinner(oil based)
Stoddard solvent < 35 %weight Aka: dry clean solvent, white solvent
Solvent naphtha, light aromatic 5 - 10 %weight : zippo lighter fluid
Benzene, 1,2,4-trimethyl- 95-63-6 1 - 5 %weight : powerful toxic solvent
Xylene , powerful solvent

GUM OUT INJECTOR CLEANER (WINTER GRADE)
Trade secret or proprietary formula < 1 ( secret #1)
Petroleum distillate(s) (unspecified) 40-70 ( most likely paint thinner)
Detergent/Inhibitor mixture 1-10 ( secret #2 )
Isopropanol 30-50 (rubbing alcohol, GAS DRYER "CH3CHOHCH3")

Seafoam ingredients:
1 PALE OIL 4229 40-60% = A base or process oil refined until its color = yellow.
2 NAPHTHA 20 25-35%
3 IPA 125 10-20% = Isopropyl Alcohol (rubbing alcohol),

"GM TEC" ingredients:
2-BUTOXYETHANOL, a paint and ink solvent , used even in Clorox cleaner 409
Naptha, , raises octane rating of gas, , simular to Zippo ligher fluid. Coleman camp fuel.
4-METHYL-2-PENTANOL, (aka:Methyl isobutyl carbinol) used as a lacquer paint tinner
9-OCTADECENDIC ACID.(aka:Oleic acid, found in Olive oil)

BG-44k:
Light Aromatic Solvent Naphtha , ( Zippo lighter fluid)
1, 2, 4-Trimethylbenzene , commonly found in up to 7% by volume already in Gasoline.
Xylene ,(1,2-dimethylbenzene & 1,3-dimethylbenzene & 1,4-dimethylbenzene), xylol , powerful solvent
Cumene ,(isopropylbenzene, ) powerful solvent,raises octane of gasoline.

GUNK , RADIATOR SPECIALTY COMPANY, FUEL INJECTION AIR INTAKE CLEANER
2-Propanone 30-60 % aka: Acetone
Ethylbenzene >10 % a powerful solvent
Hydrotreated Heavy Paraffinic Distillate 1-10 % weak solvent
Methanol 1-4% , solvent.
Propane 10-30% , gas
Toluene 15-45% ,powerful solvent
Xylene (mixed isomers) 5-20%

Red Line SI-1
1-5% Alkenylamine - (a detergent ,even used sometimes,in baby shampoo)
1-10% Isoctanol - ( C8H18O , aka, 2-ethylhexan-1-ol, or Octyl alcohol)
1-10% 1,2,4 Trimethylbenzene , (C9H12 )
5-20% Aliphatic Napthta , zippo lighter fluid. , aka: white gas, low octane)

Valvoline Complete Fuel System Cleaner
52 - 62% Kersosene
28-38% Light hydrotreated petroleum distillate
6-16% Stoddard Solvent ( stoddard is the name of the man who invented dry cleaning)


Army Regulation 70–12

"Any new fuel or lubricant additives will be introduced only if there is a proven need and justification fully supported by adequate testing and evaluation. "

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Re: Oil changes

Postby WingAdmin » Fri Sep 23, 2011 5:38 pm

eklimek wrote:" Product XXX dislodged so much sludge and crap from within the engine, that what came out was a horrific, filthy grey color. I now plan to do this once a year from now on"

My spider senses tingle when personal testimonials are left dangling. As a guest of this blog I would like to demonstrate courtesy but am compelled to suggest however informative,they may also be misleading. All such additives are essentially solvents and will result in a similar appearance to the effluent oil.


Seafoam is a well-known solvent specifically intended to be added to fuel and crankcase oil.

It is essentially clear in appearance, and the oil, obviously is a transparent honey color. The resulting mixture after running and draining is an opaque grey, with the odd lump of black goo.

To test your hypothesis however, I will add some Seafoam to a part bottle of fresh engine oil, mix together, let sit for a while, and see what the effect is.

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eklimek
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Re: Oil changes

Postby eklimek » Fri Sep 23, 2011 6:53 pm

Interesting idea.

The test is to add any of the solvents, proprietary or otherwise, to the crankcase and drain at the oil change. It is likely to result in a similar appearance to the effluent oil. Possibly this might add a cleansing component to various compartments splashed with oil.

The question then becomes - why is this helpful beyond regular oil changes?

In high mileage engines the rockers and cooler areas tend to accumulate residue. In small block chev where maintenance is neglected the drain holes from the heads to the block under the valve covers can become blocked and the valve stem seals are submerged. But these are high mileage despite the neglect.

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Re: Oil changes

Postby WingAdmin » Sat Sep 24, 2011 8:59 am

eklimek wrote:Interesting idea.

The test is to add any of the solvents, proprietary or otherwise, to the crankcase and drain at the oil change. It is likely to result in a similar appearance to the effluent oil. Possibly this might add a cleansing component to various compartments splashed with oil.

The question then becomes - why is this helpful beyond regular oil changes?

In high mileage engines the rockers and cooler areas tend to accumulate residue. In small block chev where maintenance is neglected the drain holes from the heads to the block under the valve covers can become blocked and the valve stem seals are submerged. But these are high mileage despite the neglect.


In the GL1000-GL1200 engines, the sprag clutch used to engage the starter to the crank is poorly lubricated, and sludge tends to collect in this area, to the point where it prevents the sprags from engaging properly. The end result is a starter motor that spins without cranking the engine. If it is happening intermittently, and you can occasionally get the engine to start, adding a dose of a solvent such as Seafoam will frequently dissolve the sludge, solving the problem.

I look at the removal of such deposits in my engine as prophylactic.

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eklimek
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Re: Oil changes

Postby eklimek » Sat Sep 24, 2011 2:02 pm

Sounds like a shortcoming in 30 year old machinery that may be addressed with your approach. I guess Honda never anticipated the design might still be in use and have this issue.

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Re: Oil changes

Postby MikeB » Tue Sep 27, 2011 2:22 pm

Any time you flush something you are asking for trouble in my estimation. Just do an oil change and then do it again in a few hundred miles if you are worried about it. The first reply to this thread is really the only one you needed. But that is just my opinion.
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FADM Stern GNSF
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Re: Oil changes

Postby FADM Stern GNSF » Tue Sep 27, 2011 4:48 pm

While dino and sythetics are compatable, synthetics are much better at breaking down old crud left by Dino oils. For this reason its a good idea when changing from Dino to synthetic to do an oil change the first time after a 100-200 miles. This gets any floating crud out before it can gum anything up.

As for other additives and flushes, while they all do the same thing basically, not ALL are created equal. Many years back I used a "super engine oil additive friction reducer", who's name escapes me (NOT STP, but was a similar product), as it was advertised on TV and being able to run an engine even when it was all drained out (anyone remember this one ?). Well, may have been good, but what it ALSO did was destroy all the valve seals in BOTH engines (valve seals were 1 year old in both engines).

So, for me, I tend to tread cautiously on what i put in engines and other things (BTW, CLR may clean coffee makers well, but also destroys the rubber pick up tubes .... THANKS false advertising people LMAO)
1979 GL1000
1982CX500C

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Re: Oil changes

Postby WingAdmin » Tue Sep 27, 2011 8:24 pm

FADM Stern GNSF wrote:As for other additives and flushes, while they all do the same thing basically, not ALL are created equal. Many years back I used a "super engine oil additive friction reducer", who's name escapes me (NOT STP, but was a similar product), as it was advertised on TV and being able to run an engine even when it was all drained out (anyone remember this one ?). Well, may have been good, but what it ALSO did was destroy all the valve seals in BOTH engines (valve seals were 1 year old in both engines).


Ah, sounds like Slick 50. :)

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FADM Stern GNSF
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Re: Oil changes

Postby FADM Stern GNSF » Tue Sep 27, 2011 9:19 pm

YEP, Slick 50, that was it Thanks for remembering, its been driving me nuts for a long time now (think I need a RAM upgrade in the head)
1979 GL1000
1982CX500C

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twostrokes48
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Re: Oil changes

Postby twostrokes48 » Tue Sep 27, 2011 11:06 pm

Hmmm, funny you mention Slick 50. I ran that in my Nissan PU...added a quart every 50k...Truck had 257,000 on it when I totaled it, but it didn't use a drop of oil, didn't smoke, and ran like a top. Sure hated to lose that truck. I guess it depends on the engine and design as to if it causes problems. However, I do not use it in bikes...

A long time honda bike mech friend of mine pressed me to start using BG oil product...Says he uses in all his engines...He used to race professionally, now his daughter races. Google her for some neat info... Name is Peggy Llewellyn....I have used her Dad, Gene for years. We first met in 1976. His shop was a block down from my sister's house. He recommended the Castor GTX with the BG oil treatment in my 1500....I went that route on my frist oil change after getting this bike. He also put the timing belts on for me.

sfruechte
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Re: Oil changes

Postby sfruechte » Sat Oct 01, 2011 9:58 pm

Simple oil changes are all that is necessary and all that Honda recommends. I would not run any solvent in my crankcase unless I was trying to solve a specific problem and it was worth the risk of bearing damage caused by solvent diluted oil. My GL1000 has 218,000 miles, was purchased new by me, has never had an engine problem, clutch problem or anything but a normal oil change.

dmwhite855
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Re: Oil changes

Postby dmwhite855 » Sun Oct 02, 2011 1:33 pm

Hi eklimek,
I think you are the person I need to talk with. I have a 1100 goldwing with 8500 miles, first time owner that has never rode before. I got it home and could not get it stated, again. This site helped me through some problem shooting and with every ones help I put a new battery and starter on the bike. I let it charge and connected it to a low voltage charger for 24 hours. It started right on the first push. I was feeling good, pioneer radio strong loud and I let it run and played with the choke for about 15 minutes then the bike began to make a hissing and bubbling sounds and a gush of hot water came out of the right bottom of the bike on my foot. I quickly turned off the bike and listened to the sounds quite down.
It has been sitting on a charge for a week and a half because I am frustrated. Getting the starter in was a two day job for me only because I spent a day tring to remove the long bolt at the top of the bike that would not loosen until I found out it goes through to the other end with a nut that needed to be loosened, tring to take off the exhaust pipes because I read it on this site, and taking bolts on and off and on and off because I put them on in the wrong sequence. I know how to put on a starter now and lubricated all of the bolts for good measure but frankly with this I don't know where to start. I was thinking the thermostate is the problem but I don't know how to get to it or what to do when I find it.
I have read your post and I think an oil change may be needed too.
I am getting discouraged, it is a beautiful bike but my learning curve is raining on my hopes and dreams!

Question: Where do I start? I have asked around for a bike mechanic but nobody wants to help. I really don't mind doing it myself but I really don't know what I am doing. I just found out the gas tank is not real and the seat has two bolts on each side to keep it on. Don't laugh, it true.

Thank your help
dmwhite855

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Re: Oil changes

Postby dmwhite855 » Sun Oct 02, 2011 1:59 pm

Hi WingAdmin,
Interesting post. You are saying I will need to use Seafoam in both the oil and the gas tank? How do I change the gas and refill it? Is it like your directions for doing the oil or are there directions on the bottle? Your posts make me want to begin doing this once every year as you have suggested, once I find out where it is. I have no idea what is in it now, either the gas or oil.
Thank you
dmwhite855

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WingAdmin
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Re: Oil changes

Postby WingAdmin » Sun Oct 02, 2011 9:48 pm

dmwhite855 wrote:Hi WingAdmin,
Interesting post. You are saying I will need to use Seafoam in both the oil and the gas tank? How do I change the gas and refill it? Is it like your directions for doing the oil or are there directions on the bottle? Your posts make me want to begin doing this once every year as you have suggested, once I find out where it is. I have no idea what is in it now, either the gas or oil.
Thank you
dmwhite855


The instructions are on the bottle, yes. For oil, it's added for a short period, then drained out with the old oil during an oil change. For fuel, it's just added to the fuel already in the tank and burned like regular fuel, it doesn't get drained afterward.

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eklimek
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Re: Oil changes

Postby eklimek » Mon Oct 03, 2011 6:50 am

dmwhite855

You are very kind. Others on this site are likely to be more insightful. But for what it's worth....

8500 miles? I am sorely tempted to ask you do buy all my vehicles. 108,500 maybe?

Back to the problem of the tea kettle Honda. You are boiling water and the overflow is on the floor. This occurs when there is no circulation. Possibly the rad is plugged or the pump is no longer functional as you suspect. You will need to decipher which. Take a bit of time and read the following

http://goldwingdocs.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=7438

and the excellent article on the water pump.

viewtopic.php?f=11&t=275

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Re: Oil changes

Postby druidcat1115 » Mon Oct 03, 2011 11:14 am

first dino oil has come a long way since the first oil change and yes sythetics are compatablefully capatable witn dino oils of all brands.
second after number one you are going to get opinion and everyone has one oil threads go on for years. Change your oil when recommended and that is what and all you can do. You need no additives unless you want some. Its your money.




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