Electrical Connection Power Plate


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Electrical Connection Power Plate

Postby WingAdmin » Fri Apr 20, 2012 1:34 pm



When I got my GL1500, there was an absolute rat's nest of wiring that had been added to it - wiring for auxiliary lights, trailer lights, trunk lights, and quite a bit of wiring that had at one time hooked up something - but had been just abandoned. The battery area was a mess of wires, inline fuses, and spliced connections. Some of the wiring splices were just wires twisted together and covered in electrical tape. Some of it was "added" to the existing harnesses by shoving bare wires into the back of factory connectors and hoping it would stay in place. What a MESS.

I ripped out ALL of it and started fresh.

One of the first things I wanted to do was to replace the mess of inline fuses next to the battery with a simple, organized fuse panel. I was going to piece one together, but I was instead turned on to Electrical Connection's GL1500 Power Plate (they have versions for the GL1800 as well). Looking at this product, it was more or less built the same way I would build one - so rather than take the time to do my own, I simply bought one of theirs.

Image

The product consists of a very high-quality, large-gauge feeder wire (the thick red wire in the picture) which connects to the battery positive terminal. This wire has an inline blade fuse holder for a 30 amp fuse (which is included). A second, blue wire, connects to a switched 12 volt source. This activates a socketed 30-amp relay, which switches the battery power on and off for the row of six fused circuit terminals. A black wire runs to ground (for the relay coil), and a smaller red wire allows access to the battery power when the ignition is turned off (more on this in a moment). The whole lot is epoxied to a black ABS panel.

To install, you remove the right side battery cover, loosen the battery retainer bracket, and slide the ABS panel in behind the bracket. The bracket is then re-tightened, pinching the ABS plate in between the bracket and the battery, holding it tightly in position. It's a simple system, and it works. The thick red wire is connected to the battery's positive terminal, and the black negative wire is connected to an available ground point - I used the battery bracket screw.

Image

The blue wire, which activates the panel, needs to be connected to a switched 12 volt power source. The included instructions have you connecting it to the harness of the bike such that the panel is shut off when the starter button is pressed, to allow more power for cranking the engine. I was planning to run some electronics that I didn't really want to have turned off momentarily while I started the bike (especially if I was restarting the bike in traffic for some reason!), so I instead ran the blue wire to the positive accessory terminal on the bike's fuse block, under the left side cover:

Image

The thin red wire allows for battery tenders or chargers to be connected to the panel. This wire is connected to the battery's positive terminal when the ignition is turned OFF - so that when you turn the ignition on, the battery tender is automatically disconnected. I often do work on my bike, having the battery tender connected and ignition in ACC, so that I can listen to the radio while I work - plus, my battery tender has protective circuitry in it to prevent it from being damaged should it remain connected while the bike is started/run. I therefore left the red wire disconnected and tucked in behind the relay. I suppose it could be used for an electrical accessory that only needs to be turned on when the bike is turned off - an alarm, perhaps? It is not fused, so a fuse would have to be added to it for this purpose.

The terminals each provide a fused circuit, and there are six of them. Standard blade fuses (not included) are inserted next to each terminal, sized depending on the requirements of the circuit/accessory hooked up to it. I found that I had to bend the terminals up slightly in order to clear the cover of the master fuse next to it.

There is a plastic cover that goes over the fuses and electrical terminals, however on newer GL1500's, this cover will not fit with the battery side cover in place (I tried it just to be sure). The instructions claim it will be fine without the cover in place - and I see no reason to doubt this.

All in all, it's a simple way of cleanly installing accessory circuits in your GL1500 or GL1800, and getting rid of rat's nest wiring! It's solid, well-built using very high-quality components, and I'm more than satisfied with it.

Incidentally, they also sell a grounding strip, however I already had a high-current terminal strip that I mounted and used for the same purpose - to avoid multiple wires going to the battery's negative terminal.

Image



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Re: Electrical Connection Power Plate

Postby cbx4evr » Sun Apr 22, 2012 7:32 am

Couldn't agree more. The power plate was one of the first things I added after buying my 1500. Same issue with a rats nest of wiring by PO. Cleans it up beautifully and makes for easy access to fuses. Great product.
"It´s a friggen motorcycle, it´s not supposed to be comfortable, quiet or safe. The wind noise is supposed to hurt your ears, the seat should be hard and riding it should make you s**t your pants every now and then. "

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Re: Electrical Connection Power Plate

Postby RoadRogue » Sun Jun 10, 2012 1:58 am

I have one in my 1500 as well, easy to install, makes adding new circuits a breeze 8-)
Ride safe, Todd
Over night campers welcome

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Re: Electrical Connection Power Plate

Postby cbx4evr » Sun Jun 10, 2012 9:45 am

WingAdmin wrote:The thin red wire allows for battery tenders or chargers to be connected to the panel. This wire is connected to the battery's positive terminal when the ignition is turned OFF - so that when you turn the ignition on, the battery tender is automatically disconnected. I often do work on my bike, having the battery tender connected and ignition in ACC, so that I can listen to the radio while I work - plus, my battery tender has protective circuitry in it to prevent it from being damaged should it remain connected while the bike is started/run. I therefore left the red wire disconnected and tucked in behind the relay. I suppose it could be used for an electrical accessory that only needs to be turned on when the bike is turned off - an alarm, perhaps? It is not fused, so a fuse would have to be added to it for this purpose.



Question that maybe you can answer. I didn't connect the red wire for the Battery Tender. Although I do use one I have the cord that comes with it wired on the bike. Would be nice to get rid of that cord. One less thing attached to the battery terminals. Problem is I wasn't sure how I should be wiring it up. The Battery Tender has a flat plug connector on the end. Should I be buying one of these:



and cut the wires connecting the red to the Power Plate and grounding the white?
"It´s a friggen motorcycle, it´s not supposed to be comfortable, quiet or safe. The wind noise is supposed to hurt your ears, the seat should be hard and riding it should make you s**t your pants every now and then. "

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Re: Electrical Connection Power Plate

Postby WingAdmin » Mon Jun 11, 2012 9:55 am

cbx4evr wrote:Question that maybe you can answer. I didn't connect the red wire for the Battery Tender. Although I do use one I have the cord that comes with it wired on the bike. Would be nice to get rid of that cord. One less thing attached to the battery terminals. Problem is I wasn't sure how I should be wiring it up. The Battery Tender has a flat plug connector on the end. Should I be buying one of these:



and cut the wires connecting the red to the Power Plate and grounding the white?


You'll notice that the white is connected to different terminals depending which end of that harness you're looking at.

You want to do two things:

1. Cut that wire in the picture in half. The wire that is connected to the MALE end (the exposed metal) should be connected to ground, regardless of its color.

2. The wire that is connected to the FEMALE end (the hole), put an inline fuse on it (don't remember what the Battery Tender comes with - 5 amps, perhaps?), and connect it to the red wire on the EC power plate. The fuse should be as close to the power plate as possible.

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Re: Electrical Connection Power Plate

Postby WingAdmin » Sat Oct 11, 2014 9:16 pm

I was noticing that my heated gear was not getting as warm as it did when I had it hooked directly (fused) to my battery. I measured the voltage at my heated jacket liner connector, and it was measuring 1.2 volts lower than the voltage at my battery. Obviously I had a restriction somewhere. I used 14 gauge wire to wire this particular connection, which was drawing 10 amps (jacket and gloves). There was less than 3 feet of this wire between the battery and the connector - so something as small as 18 gauge should have been perfectly fine for this - 14 gauge was overkill. I like overkill when it comes to electrical wiring.

So the wire I used was fine. I was losing power somewhere else. I started measuring voltage at various points along the circuit, and to my surprise, I was 1.1 volts low right at the terminal block on the Electrical Connection Power Plate! Between the input side and the output side of the power plate it was losing 1.1 volts when under only 10 amps of load.

I tried switching on my halogen lights, which draw another 8 amps - so a total of 18 amps. The voltage drop between the input side of the Power Plate and the output side was now 1.9 volts. This is a huge drop in a 12 volt system!

I then by accident brushed my hand against the relay on the power plate, and noticed that it was extremely warm. This is not good. I pulled the relay out of its socket and had a look at it:

EC relay
EC relay


I'm not quite sure why EC saw the need to stick their own sticker on top of the data portion of the relay. I decided to peel it off to see what was underneath it:

EC relay with sticker removed
EC relay with sticker removed


Now this makes more sense. A cheap "Install Bay" brand Chinese-made relay - sold at Wal-Mart for around $2.00. It says it is rated for "30/40A" but when it warms up considerably when drawing only 10 amps through it, it is obviously not. The relay should not warm up at ALL right up to its rated current - that it does indicates resistance inside the relay.

I happen to have a box of brand-new, high-quality 30 amp automotive style relays. I buy them in bulk from Digikey, to avoid having to pay ridiculous retail prices when I happen to need one. I went downstairs, pulled one out, and plugged it into my EC Power Plate. I then turned everything on - lights, heated clothing, everything I have connected to the power plate. I put a shunt ammeter on the main 30 amp fuse, and measured 22.5 amps being drawn. Total voltage drop across the power plate: 0.3 volts. That's more like it.

So if you have purchased and installed this EC Power Plate, I would highly recommend you buy a high-quality 30 or 40 amp automotive style relay and replace the relay that comes with the unit.

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Re: Electrical Connection Power Plate

Postby marvincshepard » Sun Nov 30, 2014 7:29 am

I also purchased the power plate from Electrical Connection. It installed easy with well written instructions.
Marvin (Shep) Shepard

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Re: Electrical Connection Power Plate

Postby Uncle Fester » Wed Dec 02, 2015 3:22 pm

Nice write up and this gave me some ideas, so I went out to my shed, dug through some old JUNK boxes and found a old GL1100/1200 fuse block. I have to figure out the pin out, but that is fairly easy, and get a relay, at that point I will have a nice POWER BOARD too. . . . . :)
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Re: Electrical Connection Power Plate

Postby branson0319@att.net » Sun May 01, 2016 2:05 pm

Will this work on the 1800??? or is it to light ???

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Re: Electrical Connection Power Plate

Postby WingAdmin » Sun May 01, 2016 2:09 pm

branson0319@att.net wrote:Will this work on the 1800??? or is it to light ???


They have one specifically for the GL1800, you can see it here:

http://cyclemax.com/inc/sdetail/gl1800_power_plate/3983


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Re: Electrical Connection Power Plate

Postby FM-USA » Sun May 15, 2016 6:23 am

The power of reading past posts....
[Admin]"I buy them in bulk from Digikey, to avoid having to pay ridiculous retail prices when I happen to need one."
They change there fuse box URL to...
http://electricalconnection.com/index.p ... use-block/ __ $65.00??? (5-2016)
.
After seeing my relay box becoming slightly melted from one relay around 2 years ago I also bought a dozen relays from them to have on hand.
It's still an unknown reason why it did that, at that time the bikes electrical was 100% stock. I did check it after the PO to know before 'X' happens on the road.

I was going to run a double fused line into the trunk for sub items and bought a thick and wide plastic jewelry box to house the sorted fuses but after seeing your choice, maybe, it is rather costly. $65.00 (5-2016)
"OIL CHANGE?" _FM 07-2009
Know its new taste and be loyal, you'll know when to change that oil.
Taste testing as the miles flow, souring as that acid grows.
And don't flirt with dirt or darkened oil, all the faster your engine will spoil.

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Re: Electrical Connection Power Plate

Postby branson0319@att.net » Sun May 15, 2016 12:01 pm

Thanks to all of you who have replied to my questions .. My other problem is I,m running out of battery post space ..To many items connected already but will be able to cut that down with the accessories block ... Thanks Steve

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Re: Electrical Connection Power Plate

Postby FM-USA » Sun May 15, 2016 2:38 pm

branson0319@att.net wrote:Thanks to all of you who have replied to my questions .. My other problem is I,m running out of battery post space ..To many items connected already but will be able to cut that down with the accessories block ... Thanks Steve

Under the seat and right behind the gas tank is a fair amount of unused space. You can install a second accessory block there.
I'm using that space for extra wires and connections and to keep out the dust and wetness it's all in a sturdy baggie that's lightly twist tied.
"OIL CHANGE?" _FM 07-2009
Know its new taste and be loyal, you'll know when to change that oil.
Taste testing as the miles flow, souring as that acid grows.
And don't flirt with dirt or darkened oil, all the faster your engine will spoil.

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Re: Electrical Connection Power Plate

Postby branson0319@att.net » Mon May 16, 2016 10:25 am

Thanks ..Good Idea..Just need to cut down the things connected to battery posts . So hooking up a accessory block to it and routing the wires from other things to it instead of have them all hooked to battery posts will help ..

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iRide 24/365 99% SmileMiles
================
"You don't buy yourself a
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HD friends PACIFIED."
================
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Re: Electrical Connection Power Plate

Postby FM-USA » Mon May 16, 2016 10:56 am

Just in case, I wouldn't mount it to the fender plastic, it can come loose.
Maybe securely strap hang it from the cross frame.

IF you keep an eye on the HIGH accident prone intersections you might find some ABS sheets big enough for that new fuse cover. Heat gun works wonders to shape it.
Last edited by FM-USA on Mon May 16, 2016 11:51 am, edited 1 time in total.
"OIL CHANGE?" _FM 07-2009
Know its new taste and be loyal, you'll know when to change that oil.
Taste testing as the miles flow, souring as that acid grows.
And don't flirt with dirt or darkened oil, all the faster your engine will spoil.

branson0319@att.net
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Re: Electrical Connection Power Plate

Postby branson0319@att.net » Mon May 16, 2016 11:25 am

Not planning on hooking it to anything plastic .. need a good metal connection ..

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iRide 24/365 99% SmileMiles
================
"You don't buy yourself a
HD to be SATISFIED,...
you buy it to keep your
HD friends PACIFIED."
================
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ANTAGONISTS need not post.
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Re: Electrical Connection Power Plate

Postby FM-USA » Mon May 16, 2016 11:53 am

branson0319@att.net wrote:Not planning on hooking it to anything plastic .. need a good metal connection ..

Understandable, I was mentioning just in case scenario.

Point being it hangs, if needed to access it, it can be easily pulled out, unlike the side cover relay box.
"OIL CHANGE?" _FM 07-2009
Know its new taste and be loyal, you'll know when to change that oil.
Taste testing as the miles flow, souring as that acid grows.
And don't flirt with dirt or darkened oil, all the faster your engine will spoil.

branson0319@att.net
Posts: 41
Joined: Sat Dec 19, 2009 1:02 pm
Location: Janesville ,Wisconsin
Motorcycle: 2004 1800 GW

Re: Electrical Connection Power Plate

Postby branson0319@att.net » Wed May 18, 2016 3:12 pm

Thank s very much any advice is appreciated .. Steve




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