carborator floats 1976 GL1000


Information and questions on GL1000 Goldwings (1975-1979)
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plumber
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carborator floats 1976 GL1000

Postby plumber » Sun Feb 12, 2012 3:46 pm



I have a float that is sticking I was told which one . I cannot start the unit because the gas flows right out the exhaust on the bottom. Can I try to fix or repair myself. I was told it was a float seat that needed to be replaced? Any sugguestions I just don't want to srew it up and cost me more money, and still not get it started.



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virgilmobile
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Re: carborator floats 1976 GL1000

Postby virgilmobile » Sun Feb 12, 2012 8:29 pm

I hand cleaned every part in my carbs till they operated butter smooth. Including the float pivot pins, needle valves and slides.I used a "Q tip" and polishing compound in the needle seat. I dipped the floats in polyurethane to seal them. Bench filled with gas before install to verify a good seal and then measured each amount in each bowl for the same gas level.A good sync and the bike would lift the front end up. The whole thing took 8 hours.Tedious but worth it.

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virgilmobile
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Re: carborator floats 1976 GL1000

Postby virgilmobile » Sun Feb 12, 2012 10:16 pm

Oh,and by the way,not only did I not purchase any "kit". I only used 2 cans of brake cleaner to do the job.Even the air cutoff valve was reusable

plumber
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Re: carborator floats 1976 GL1000

Postby plumber » Mon Feb 13, 2012 6:33 pm

Hello Virgilmobile
I really appreciate your help with your answer, and today I got my new clymer Honda
book. The problem I have Iam nervous about taking out the carbs and having a million peices in front of me and saying what did I do? I haven't had a bike in years and I was hoping to have a little hobby since the nice weather is coming to fl . I have a friend who has had Harleys for years and he is my source for information at this time. He likes to jury rig stuff and not do it quite correctly. He is suggesting I have his friend check out the carbs for a few bills which is 50 to 60 miles away and I have to trailer it there.
I personally would like to take the unit apart myself, and learn even by error but I do want to ride in the next few weeks. Should I botch the whole repair would you have any Idea the set back cost if someone had to take over. I am sorry to bore you but I will be looking for a lot of help as this project proceeds.
Thank You
Plumber

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virgilmobile
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Re: carborator floats 1976 GL1000

Postby virgilmobile » Mon Feb 13, 2012 7:59 pm

OK , let's say you really destroy the carbs.Worst case.buy a set from a source here or on line,have a carb shop rebuild them and drop $800.Ouch
Better idea..remove the carbs .disassemble one at a time. Take a bunch of pictures..read everything about the carbs and do it.by what your describing just a good cleanup will get it straight. We have lots of tricks here so you don't get off track

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virgilmobile
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Re: carborator floats 1976 GL1000

Postby virgilmobile » Mon Feb 13, 2012 8:05 pm

Oh, you don't have to remove the motor to take off the carbs .

plumber
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Re: carborator floats 1976 GL1000

Postby plumber » Mon Feb 13, 2012 9:28 pm

virgilmobile
Thanks
Plumber

plumber
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Re: carborator floats 1976 GL1000

Postby plumber » Tue Feb 21, 2012 6:40 pm

Hello Virgilmobile
Well i finnally started to work on the carbs . I took off as much as possible to give me access to the carb the one that I was told was the problem, but, yes but I unscrewed the float cover and suprise the cap does not clear the frame. I looked around and if I take off the outlet pipes connected to the motor would that give me the space to remove the float cover and do I need to do all four ( I would think so and would that be the correct pocedure. I turned it over yesterday by mistake and between 2,3 k it sounded great but when i let off the gas i thought the motor was going to jump into my arms . At 1 K rpm she sounded very rough now I was told the carbs were just done back in August and that the one carb I was trying to reach needed a seat valve stem or something like that, I see a brass screw below this carb and it has been abused what would that adjust ? Any insight would be helpful from anyone. I am going very slowly so I don"t mess it up right out of the gate.
Thanks for any help
plumber

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Fred Camper
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Re: carborator floats 1976 GL1000

Postby Fred Camper » Tue Feb 21, 2012 7:33 pm

The brass screw centered below the carb bowl is the drain screw. So if that is messed up no biggie.

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virgilmobile
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Re: carborator floats 1976 GL1000

Postby virgilmobile » Tue Feb 21, 2012 7:49 pm

I'd be inclined to remove the carb assembly from the bike and put it on the work bench.trying to fix a single carb on the bike is difficult.You just can't get to all the pieces.It dosen't much mater when a carb was repaired,it dosen't take long for the "new"gas to muck things up.If I remember,removing the air cutoff valve elevates the clearance problem. Get them out and hand polish the innards.

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Fred Camper
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Re: carborator floats 1976 GL1000

Postby Fred Camper » Tue Feb 21, 2012 8:15 pm

I too would remove the carb rack. They slide out just fine if you turn the rubber intake hose up on one side, then pull them out the other side. Pretty quick once you have the fuel hose off.

plumber
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Re: carborator floats 1976 GL1000

Postby plumber » Wed Feb 22, 2012 7:07 pm

Hello Virgilmobile
Oh thats why the boots were loose on one side .I don't have to remove the intake tubes . I will have to remove the cables and gas line. Is there anything I could miss that I can'tsee. I got brake cleaner for the job, do you use any paper for polishing I know there is a wet sand paper available???
I will stop here it may take me a little time to take out the carbs and get them on the bench.
Air cut off valve? I removed the air filltercan is the air cut off valve near that ??Iam going to look on line for a picture...
Thanks
Plumber

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virgilmobile
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Re: carborator floats 1976 GL1000

Postby virgilmobile » Wed Feb 22, 2012 9:59 pm

The removal of the air cutoff valve helps with the tight space removal of the carb set.It's on the top of the plenum box.
No,I didn't split the plenum box,no I didn't remove the carbs from the plenum box either.
I used 2 cans of brake fluid,2 sheets of 1500 grit wet/dry paper, 8 "Q" tips with polishing compound to clean the needle seat,a old tooth brush(not hers).
I also had a small can of polyurethane that I dipped the composite floats in to seal them so they won't absorb gas and change the fuel level.
When you do pull the carbs apart,mark each bowl,top cap and slide so they don't get mixed up.Here's a post about the slides...viewtopic.php?f=4&t=8928
And this one about the floats...http://www.goldwingdocs.com/forum/viewt ... f=4&t=4776

plumber
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Re: carborator floats 1976 GL1000

Postby plumber » Sun Feb 26, 2012 8:50 pm

Hello Virgilmobile
I cleaned the floats do I need to pull out the adjustment screws .
What determines a bad seat ? A bad valve pin ? I had a longer message but it disappeared.
Thank You
Plumber

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virgilmobile
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Re: carborator floats 1976 GL1000

Postby virgilmobile » Sun Feb 26, 2012 9:34 pm

A bad valve seat won't cut off the fuel.It can be carefully removed and cleaned with a "Q" tip and polish.The needle valve has 3 or 4 ridges on the sides,1500 grit paper till it is brass color again.The float pin is stainless steel.Only if it's pitted or bent should it be replaced.Otherwise,just a clean with 1500 grit paper to remove any burrs.

plumber
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Re: carborator floats 1976 GL1000

Postby plumber » Sun Mar 04, 2012 3:32 pm

Hello virgilmobile
Well I put it all back together. I can't start it, she will turn over but no start .
I went to the book and readjusted the set screws to two turns still no ignition. I did notice that if the throttle wasn't cracked a bit she doen't want to turn over ? The screw adjust ment were not as perscribe by the book now is there a trick to get this motor running. More gas and then back down I don't have gauges to check anything . I would like to get to ride this bike soon . Any smart suggestion would be helpful. It started a couple of time and ran real rough at idle then went down@ 2-3k it sounded good. this was before I cleaned and dipped the floats and everything else to put it back to gether. It also sat for days before I tried to start it? Any help or suggestion would be appreciated.
Thank You
Plumber

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D2D
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Re: carborator floats 1976 GL1000

Postby D2D » Sun Mar 04, 2012 4:53 pm

How much gas do you have in the tank? Be sure you have at least half a tank. Be sure your petcock is open and that you have fuel going to the pump ( loosen the inlet line to see if it drips ) So as to not run down your battery, hook a charger up to it while cranking. Make sure your kill switch wasn't "accidentally" turned on. After cranking for a few seconds at a time, if it doesn't start, open up those brass screws ( drain plugs ) one at a time and check for fuel. If you have fuel, check to be sure you have spark, you may have disconnected a coil wire when you pulled the carbs.

plumber
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Re: carborator floats 1976 GL1000

Postby plumber » Sun Mar 04, 2012 5:36 pm

Hello D2D
Added gas and it almost turned over. Then the gas is flowing thru the exhaust lines. Could the flow be to great and should I turn in the jets so there is less gas . I returned to the factory two turn setting but it seems to be flooding .I shut the line off and still got lots of gas coming out?
Thanks
Plumber

plumber
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Re: carborator floats 1976 GL1000

Postby plumber » Sun Mar 04, 2012 7:02 pm

The plumber is back.
Well I shut off the carb that was the original problem and I got it started. I could hold it at 2-3k for a little and I let off on the throtle and she died. I plan to remove the needle valve and see what the problem is . Iam making progress but I am slow . I pulled the gas line off and plug it and I got it to idle about 1k I also shut off the problem carb she was a little rough but stayed running. Well could the float tab need adjusting or is it a seat valve i didn't see? I ran it out of gas in this mode. Iattached the gas line and it seem like I was getting to much gas again.
plumber

plumber
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Re: carborator floats 1976 GL1000

Postby plumber » Sat Mar 31, 2012 6:12 pm

Plumber I got to ride a little today.I cannot leave the gas petcock on it floods the bike. I get gas into the carbs and shut off the gas. I get it to start and even idle about a grand I turn the gas on and she dies? I thought I was on the right track but I guess Iam back at the beggining . Any comments please . Oh I can take out the carbs in about 35 mins consistantly.

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D2D
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Re: carborator floats 1976 GL1000

Postby D2D » Sun Apr 01, 2012 6:56 am

Your floats are not set right allowing the gas to flow right by and out your exhaust. Pull your carbs again and check float height on all four of them; check to be sure the needle valve is seating fully and that your slides are not sticking. Your bike will never run right until you can keep your petcock wide open and your floats are functioning properly. As a side note, I'd also check each float to be sure they have no holes or other damage preventing them from operating properly.

plumber
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Re: carborator floats 1976 GL1000

Postby plumber » Sun Apr 01, 2012 9:29 am

I got the book but it does not show where the slides are and how to get to them ? I will either become an expert with these carbs or I will become ball prematurely. I have some chores to do I will check back later for any insight. Thanks everyone .

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Fred Camper
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Re: carborator floats 1976 GL1000

Postby Fred Camper » Sun Apr 01, 2012 9:39 am

Your slides can be seen by removing your air cleaner and peering inside the plenum with a mirror. They are under the round domes on each carb.

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Re: carborator floats 1976 GL1000

Postby Old Fogey » Fri Apr 13, 2012 9:47 pm

These carbs are not the carbs for learning on! The float adjustment is critical for a start, the air and fuel circuits are tiny and easily blocked, the air cut-off diaphragm can split etc.etc.
Go here and buy Randakk's video, and preferably buy a rebuild kit too. Read through all the information on his site as well. It's time well spent.
http://www.randakks.com/Video%20Products.htm
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'Impossible' is just a level of difficulty! The only stupid question is the one you didn't ask first!

plumber
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Re: carborator floats 1976 GL1000

Postby plumber » Sun Jul 15, 2012 3:29 pm

To all that gave advice thank you. I broke down and got the Randakk's vidio and rebuild kit. Guess what I found? When I broke down to the individual halfs all the rubber seal were gone or just a piece was left. I had cleaned everything allready I just replace all the seal that came in the kit. Then I was leary about putting it back in I could not stand another crash and burn. Well I put it back in and got new gas with a little mystry oil opened the petcock and crank the engine ,well it started I had to readjusted the idle I had turn it up to keep the motor running before the overhaul. Now coming out of the little hole under the head of the fuel pump is gasoline. Did I loose another seal or what.
Plumber
( really thanks to all and yes the kit was a value and all those o rings )




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