Stripped Float Bowl Screws


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1grouch2u
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Location: Bonham, TX
Motorcycle: 1976 Honda Goldwing GL1000

Stripped Float Bowl Screws

Postby 1grouch2u » Thu Apr 12, 2012 8:40 pm



I'm finally getting around to going through my carbs for this year and have found most of my float bowl screws to have finally gave up the ghost- er, I mean 12 out of 16 won't hold and are stripped out.

I've found m4 x .7 thread repair kits, but really can't afford one right now- has anybody had any reasonable success with drilling and taping these to an oversize - next larger inch size- and replacing the screws?

I went out (to the local hardware store) and purchased a #25 drill, a #10-24 tap, and 16 #10-24 x 1/2" screws, but upon researching here on-line, in a Honda SOHC forum where somebody with the same problem on some 750K carbs ended up using #8-32 tap/screws with some good success-.

These carb bodies are weak enough metal that I'm certain I'm not the only one to have had this problem, so please feel free to chime right in with your experiences and advise- I have some new o-rings for my float-needle-seat, and my jets coming from a place I found that sells them individually (for Keihin and Mikuni) :

http://www.newmotorcycleparts.com/fuel_ ... rings.html

so I have a few days to remedy this dilema- but don't want to be down even long enough for them to get here, let alone until next month when I might could afford the heli-coil kit!

Thanks in advance,

1Grouch2u



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Fred Camper
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Re: Stripped Float Bowl Screws

Postby Fred Camper » Thu Apr 12, 2012 8:46 pm

Seems like the 8-32 would be the way to go. Best to use a drill press if you have access to one. No desire to remove more metal than necessary.

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1grouch2u
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Motorcycle: 1976 Honda Goldwing GL1000

Re: Stripped Float Bowl Screws

Postby 1grouch2u » Thu Apr 12, 2012 9:37 pm

Fred Camper wrote:Seems like the 8-32 would be the way to go. Best to use a drill press if you have access to one. No desire to remove more metal than necessary.


Thanks boss- I wish I had access to many, many things! -a drill press would be somewhere just past a bench grinder, a floor jack and a vise... but I think you answered my question (they're going to get pissed at me at the hardware store- I never spend more than a few bucks in there and yesterday I took back 16 asstd. o-rings and xchanged them for the aforementioned tap, bit, and screws- now tomorrow I suppose I'll be going back with them and swap for the #8-32 screws.)

Hopefully those will hold for the time being, and if not should leave enough metal that if necessary I can use heli-coils in the future. I really appreciate all you great gurus on here, and I will report back with the results.

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1grouch2u
Posts: 190
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Location: Bonham, TX
Motorcycle: 1976 Honda Goldwing GL1000

Re: Stripped Float Bowl Screws

Postby 1grouch2u » Thu Apr 12, 2012 9:41 pm

1grouch2u wrote:
Fred Camper wrote:Seems like the 8-32 would be the way to go. Best to use a drill press if you have access to one. No desire to remove more metal than necessary.


Thanks boss- I wish I had access to many, many things! -a drill press would be somewhere just past a bench grinder, a floor jack and a vise... but I think you answered my question (they're going to get pissed at me at the hardware store- I never spend more than a few bucks in there and yesterday I took back 16 asstd. o-rings and xchanged them for the aforementioned tap, bit, and screws- now tomorrow I suppose I'll be going back with them and swap for the #8-32 screws.)

Hopefully those will hold for the time being, and if not should leave enough metal that if necessary I can use heli-coils in the future. I really appreciate all you great gurus on here, and I will report back with the results.



Congrat's on 'Bike of the Month'! 8-)

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Fred Camper
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Re: Stripped Float Bowl Screws

Postby Fred Camper » Fri Apr 13, 2012 9:55 am

Why thank you 1grouch2u, you must also be a dual or more forum user as well. Best of luck with your hardware store transaction. And be sure to post about your wins and losses during this rebuild.

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1grouch2u
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Motorcycle: 1976 Honda Goldwing GL1000

Re: Stripped Float Bowl Screws

Postby 1grouch2u » Fri Apr 13, 2012 11:40 pm

I took back the #10 screws, tap, and drill- the credit hasn't shown up on my statement yet, but that's another story- and bought the #8-32 screws, tap, and drill - and it looks like that's going to be the "ticket". I carefully ran just the tap without the drill in a couple of the holes just to see and ended up with real pretty holes/threads and the screws went in and tightened up beautifully- so far so good. They had the screws in black with allen heads too- a little more pricey but I was able to get them the right length that way, and they look good as well as performing better.

I'm going to have to wait until sometime late next week though to get them back together due to some glitch with my order at the online o-ring source, which sucks because they don't ship again until Tuesday- grr! Maybe tomorrow I'll try and see if a lawnmower shop locally has metric o-rings- if not I have plenty of time to leisurely go about my other repairs

Any ideas who else (locally) might have stuff like that in stock? You know where I'll be

1Grouch2u

greyfox
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Location: Glendive, Montana
Motorcycle: 1976 GL1000 LTD

Re: Stripped Float Bowl Screws

Postby greyfox » Fri Apr 20, 2012 7:56 pm

Just a comment from a nubee - currently in process of reviving a '76 gl1000 ltd, a '78 400a hawk, a couple '70 750k1s - finished an
'87 vt700c & '89 pc800 --- found a number of issues like this - the 8-32 tap w/o drilling is the way I went with good success - metric heli-coils = $$$+ - then means not 'as new' but works well & heli-coils look like too much metal taken further weakening the casting at the hole. Also - very delicately applied some Permatex 2A to the bowl gaskets & outer edge of bowl - so far no leaks of fuel

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1grouch2u
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Re: Stripped Float Bowl Screws

Postby 1grouch2u » Sun Apr 22, 2012 8:54 pm

1grouch2u wrote:I took back the #10 screws, tap, and drill- the credit hasn't shown up on my statement yet, but that's another story- and bought the #8-32 screws, tap, and drill - and it looks like that's going to be the "ticket". I carefully ran just the tap without the drill in a couple of the holes just to see and ended up with real pretty holes/threads and the screws went in and tightened up beautifully- so far so good. They had the screws in black with allen heads too- a little more pricey but I was able to get them the right length that way, and they look good as well as performing better.

I'm going to have to wait until sometime late next week though to get them back together due to some glitch with my order at the online o-ring source, which sucks because they don't ship again until Tuesday- grr! Maybe tomorrow I'll try and see if a lawnmower shop locally has metric o-rings- if not I have plenty of time to leisurely go about my other repairs

Any ideas who else (locally) might have stuff like that in stock? You know where I'll be

1Grouch2u



I see where Randakk recommends against allen-head screws- and to use heli-coil or time-sert, but I just can't afford that stuff this month. I appreciate the advice on the #8-32 screws I'm using- I did pop for new float bowl gaskets after all, so hopefully snug will do the trick. Today I went through the top part of the carbs- and did find a clogged primary-air jet. -Made sure the slides were all smooth and cleaned up a little more- hopefully the mail will bring my parts tomorrow so I can get this old bird back on the road!- I'll let you know :)

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1grouch2u
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Motorcycle: 1976 Honda Goldwing GL1000

Re: Stripped Float Bowl Screws

Postby 1grouch2u » Thu Apr 26, 2012 5:41 pm

I'm either venting or whining- won't know until I review just what it is I've written here in a minute!

It's Thursday and I'm sitting here at my computer not out riding, and instead of the perfect weather we've been having here for quite some time it looks like hot and muggy are settling in for good! (expletive- expletive -expletive~!!!!!) :twisted: I thought wonders what I had found- Saints be Praised, a place that sold the individual o-rings for all various and sundry manner of KeiHins and Mikunis'- I was in the home stretch, they took PayPal and I'd been informed that they had all the o-rings in stock...

...time started really creeping by, so finally I called. I had added a set of bowl gaskets to the order (without verifying that they too were in stock). Bad bad bad, and I can't really blame anybody but myself. I should have checked- probably could have had them here off Ebay by now, cheaper, and kicking myself because I can't help imagining that's exactly what they did- marked them up (some on Ebay -Emco- for like $13.00, incl. delivery while these were $4.50- make not specified- a piece ) shipping for all of it supposed to be $6.00 priority mail- I hope that makes it here quickly- I'm just really bummed by having missed any of that fantastic riding weather.

The girl there at the Cycle-ReCycle 2 seems really nice, and I can't at all fault them ethically- (might have been nice had they called and told me there would be a delay on the bowl gaskets) so what do you think? :roll:

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1grouch2u
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Re: Stripped Float Bowl Screws

Postby 1grouch2u » Sun Apr 29, 2012 4:13 am

Okay just a quick wrap-up on this: I used the #8-32 tap and some 5/8" long allen head screws (with split type washers), new o-rings on the float-valve seat, as well as the secondary and primary main jets, and new bowl gaskets - wow, what an improvement! It doesn't leak fuel all over the top of the engine anymore, and the throttle response / responsiveness is so much better it's really amazing- I'm sure it will get even better when I pull the crash bars and all so I can hook up the vacuum guages (tomorrow?) and synch them- but the tap and the #8-32 screws were the bomb- pulled down nice and solid - and now I can clean up the top side of the engine from that unsightly rust from the leaking gasoline (plus less worries that it's gonna go up in flame ...) - plus an opportunity to very precisely get all the float levels to 21mm, I think one was high and another was low

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Fred Camper
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Re: Stripped Float Bowl Screws

Postby Fred Camper » Sun Apr 29, 2012 6:09 am

Glad to see such success here. Great news and you kept the budget in check. Attention to details pays off.

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1grouch2u
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Re: Stripped Float Bowl Screws

Postby 1grouch2u » Sun May 06, 2012 5:08 pm

:D
Fred Camper wrote:Glad to see such success here. Great news and you kept the budget in check. Attention to details pays off.
:D

Hi- yeah buddy, the old thing really runs well now- but still a long way from having everything to a place where - well, it's still a work in progress. When I put fork seals in it last year I used what I had (I think 10w-30) for fork oil- and it worked okay but I'm thinking maybe I should go back with real fork oil, or the tranny fluid that's recommended! I figured it would be a little stiff, but with the fairing and all that it would be a good thing- now yesterday I had my high-beam go out on me- maybe in part from the forks being too stiff (or maybe just from being 30-something years old- :lol: )

Now I'm gonna put my boots on and go to the grocery store on it (ANY reason to ride~!!!) -wondering if the factory headlight which is still on there behind the fairing, is the same size bulb- it looks like it might be larger, but I can't really tell from where it sets.

Thanks for all your help/advice- so far so good! :)

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Fred Camper
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Location: Metro Detroit, MI
Motorcycle: 1977 GL1000, 1976 LTD GL1000

Re: Stripped Float Bowl Screws

Postby Fred Camper » Sun May 06, 2012 9:18 pm

Sealed beam was standard, most of us run a reflector that takes an H4 bulb now. They are common. Keep at her, nice looking bagger you have there.

bthacker
Posts: 49
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Motorcycle: 2005 GL1800
1977 GL1000

Re: Stripped Float Bowl Screws

Postby bthacker » Mon Jan 19, 2015 6:40 am

I am restoring a 1977 and where someone before me had been into the carbs they had put sheet metal screws in several locations where screws were stripped. I used a 11/64 drill bit and drilled them out and tapped them for a 5mm X 80 pitch screws. Seems to be holding well. Time will tell. The original screws are a 4mm X 70 pitch.




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