timing belt change


Information and questions on GL1000 Goldwings (1975-1979)
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highlander
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timing belt change

Postby highlander » Tue Feb 02, 2010 4:34 pm



Hi All I am going to have to replace the timing belts on my 1978 GL 1000. Do I have to take the engine out from the frame to to do this.

Thank you

John



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WingAdmin
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Re: timing belt change

Postby WingAdmin » Tue Feb 02, 2010 5:11 pm

Absolutely not. It makes it a lot easier if you remove the radiator, but you don't have to - you can just unbolt it and pull it forward, and get the covers off that way (that's the way I did it - although I don't know if I'd do it that way again). Either way, the engine doesn't have to come out.

veryblue96
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Re: timing belt change

Postby veryblue96 » Tue Feb 16, 2010 3:30 pm

I changed my GL1100 belts-it takes patience and having the information from the service manual, chilton, haynes etc helps a lot.
MM :)

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Placerville
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Re: timing belt change

Postby Placerville » Tue Mar 09, 2010 1:02 pm

Go to the NGW http://www.ngwclub.com/, register if you're not a member, then look up the very fine step-by-step instructions (with photos') they have posted there.
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Old Fogey
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Re: timing belt change

Postby Old Fogey » Wed Mar 10, 2010 2:07 pm

For a huge number of tech articles, go to the NGW Shop Talk site here;

http://www.ngwclub.com/shoptalk/

Specifically, for the info on timing belts renewal;

http://www.ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=3544
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78AzWing
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Re: timing belt change

Postby 78AzWing » Mon Mar 15, 2010 10:35 am

After looking at both of mine, I have decided that there isn't a whole lotta room there if you don't remove the radiator.

Take out the radiator, pull the belt covers and replace the belts.
Then replace the hoses. And while you got the radiator off, check the waterpump. And maybe the thermostat. I mean, you are already at that point anyway. And these things are 30 some years old. 32 and 34 in my case. :ugeek:
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Re: timing belt change

Postby Old Fogey » Mon Mar 15, 2010 11:16 am

And don't forget to reverse flush the radiator. You'll be surprised how much muck comes out.
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Re: timing belt change

Postby WingAdmin » Mon Mar 15, 2010 1:15 pm

Keep in mind that pulling the front engine cover off to "check the water pump" involves replacing some gaskets, so you'll want to have a water pump gasket kit on hand.

When I did my timing belts I did it leaving the radiator on and connected - but space was tight, and I did graze a few knuckles. But it can be done.

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Leveled
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Re: timing belt change

Postby Leveled » Thu Dec 12, 2013 5:56 pm

WingAdmin wrote:Keep in mind that pulling the front engine cover off to "check the water pump" involves replacing some gaskets, so you'll want to have a water pump gasket kit on hand.

When I did my timing belts I did it leaving the radiator on and connected - but space was tight, and I did graze a few knuckles. But it can be done.


WingAdmin,
To confirm, are you saying that if I remove the radiator to get to the timing belts I'll need to have a water pump gasket kit?

Also, I see there's a front cover gasket (http://www.saber-cycle.com/store/product376.html). Is it recommended that I replace that when I change the belts even if it doesn't appear worn?

Thanks everyone.

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Re: timing belt change

Postby WingAdmin » Thu Dec 12, 2013 7:12 pm

Leveled wrote:
WingAdmin wrote:Keep in mind that pulling the front engine cover off to "check the water pump" involves replacing some gaskets, so you'll want to have a water pump gasket kit on hand.

When I did my timing belts I did it leaving the radiator on and connected - but space was tight, and I did graze a few knuckles. But it can be done.


WingAdmin,
To confirm, are you saying that if I remove the radiator to get to the timing belts I'll need to have a water pump gasket kit?

Also, I see there's a front cover gasket (http://www.saber-cycle.com/store/product376.html). Is it recommended that I replace that when I change the belts even if it doesn't appear worn?

Thanks everyone.


No, you'll have to drain the coolant to remove the radiator, but you don't need to replace gaskets. You WILL need to replace gaskets if you pull the water pump cover to "have a look" and check on the condition of the water pump - which isn't a half bad idea, being that you're going to be torn down to that state anyway.

If the front cover gasket isn't worn or cracked, then no point in replacing it. Whatever you do, don't buy one from Saber Cycle, or you'll be pulling it all apart in a few months to replace it again. See: Saber Cycle Vendor Record

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Leveled
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Re: timing belt change

Postby Leveled » Thu Dec 12, 2013 8:59 pm

Thanks for the info! I didn't even notice the vendor area of the forum. You may have just saved me a ton of time and trouble. Thank you again

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portugeezer
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Re: timing belt change

Postby portugeezer » Mon Dec 16, 2013 6:24 pm

It's not bad at all! I replaced mine with the radiator still on but unbolted. I gave myself a black thumbnail. Otherwise it was pretty easy. Make sure the marks stay aligned. Stuff seems to like to move around. Rotate the engine by hand and make sure everything is good before you hit the start button.

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Placerville
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Re: timing belt change

Postby Placerville » Tue Dec 17, 2013 1:13 am

All good advise above.

Regarding the inspection or the 'checking' of your water pump; you do not need to remove the front cover to perform an inspection. First, the only reason to remove the front cover would be if you're going to R&R the pump. If your pump is not leaking coolant from the weep hole underneath, there is no reason to suspect that something is wrong with it. However, if you want to check your pump for shaft play, that can be easily accomplished by removing the bottom hose cover. Once removed, you'll be looking directly at the pump impeller head. Tip: Drain your coolant before doing this. To inspect the pump shaft for play, place your thumb directly on the center of the impeller and try to push it from side to side and up and down. If you feel any play at all, no matter how slight, the pump is on it's way out. Note that a bit of rotational movement of the impeller head i.e., clockwise or counter-clockwise is OK. Also, your water pump can be failing but, it may not be leaking from the weep hole. If there's play in the shaft but, no leaking, you still need to change it.

Some will disagree with the following statement but, it's just my opinion so, you can make your own decision: If/when you pull the lower cover and find that the impeller head is a brown material (Bakelite), it's the original pump that was installed when the bike was produced and I'd suggest that you change it even if it's not leaking or showing any signs of failure. Why?

These original pumps have a life span of between 20K to 30K miles. If it's not failing now, it's going to fail in the near future. If I had my radiator off and was also doing a belt job, I'd go the extra mile and replace the pump while I was at it. It's what I did with mine and I'm glad I did as it gave me the opportunity to replace several parts and do a lot of preventative maintenance that would have had to have been done down the road.

Pumps are still available from Honda and a good quality complete gasket and seal set is here. With these two items, you'll have everything your need to do a pump job.
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Old Fogey
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Re: timing belt change

Postby Old Fogey » Tue Dec 17, 2013 10:01 am

I would totally agree with all of this advice. The inspection should be done regularly if you know you still have the original pump in there. But as said, if you have, get it changed. The last thing you need miles from home is a pump that is letting water into the oil or oil into the water. With a bit of hunting you can do this job for under $180 inc shipping.
The front cover bolts can be a pain, the heads are made of cream cheese and the cross strips out easily. Replace them with Allen bolts. Robin from the NGW forum does a complete kit of bolts. Email him here: geaster@tc3net.com
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Placerville
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Re: timing belt change

Postby Placerville » Tue Dec 17, 2013 5:07 pm

....and as long as we're on the subject, if you decide to swap out your pump, I strongly suggest that you read this and this before you tackle the job. Read them both repeatedly until you've absorbed the information thoroughly. As Old Fogey mentions above, the Phillips headed fasteners of the trans cover can be a PITA to remove. Some will come right out while others will fight you to the death. A tip for their successful removal can be found at Randakks site (above) where it mentions the 'Bingo' method. Believe me, it works.
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spookytooth
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Re: timing belt change

Postby spookytooth » Wed Dec 25, 2013 11:00 pm

I did mine in conjunction with an oil change and valve lashing. The whole thing took less than two hours..

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Fred Camper
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Re: timing belt change

Postby Fred Camper » Thu Dec 26, 2013 7:20 pm

I just changed my front cover cross point screw with Robins perfect allen fastener kit. I used every documented trick to get all nine screws out. And yes, the left upper required penetrating oil heat, cutting a slot for a straight impact bit then finally a vice grip to let go. I would have given up with a failure had I not read all the tips in detail.

Goldenroad66
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Re: timing belt change

Postby Goldenroad66 » Mon Jan 06, 2014 8:04 pm

I'm creeping up on 24k on the ole wing. Time to change the belts?

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Fred Camper
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Re: timing belt change

Postby Fred Camper » Tue Jan 07, 2014 8:53 pm

Age of belts is more important than miles, if you are at 5 years, then time to change belts. If your 24K happened in 3 years, you are good for two more years.

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Re: timing belt change

Postby Old Fogey » Tue Jan 07, 2014 9:07 pm

Only to an extent, if your 24k has been done at sensible engine speeds. If you are a 'red-line-it-in-every-gear' rider, get them changed right now!
Just as a matter of interest, when talking to the Quinton Hazel tech guy when I was selling their belts, he reckoned that there were NO belts for the Wings, of any make, that were intended for sustained engine speeds over 6500 rpm.


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