neutral light


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lumagetti
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neutral light

Postby lumagetti » Fri May 01, 2009 7:00 pm



I have just started riding my 76 gl1000, love it, can't wait for my next ride, but, my neutral light stays on all the time. It is dull when not in neutral, and gets brighter when in neutral. Any and all help is appreciated. Does anyone know of any local rides just south of Boston?



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WingAdmin
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Re: neutral light

Postby WingAdmin » Sun May 03, 2009 1:52 pm

The neutral light functions by grounding the wire connected to it when the bike is in neutral. So one of two things could have happened:

- The wire is pinched/broken somewhere, and is grounding out, causing the light to come on at all times
- The switch is broken/dirty/in need of maintenance

Fortunately, it's a relatively easy thing to test. Unplug the neutral switch. If the light stays on, the wire is your culprit. If the light goes off, the switch is the problem.

I've read online of people with this problem who just pulled the switch out, took it apart, cleaned it, and put it back together to fix it. Others needed to replace it. Just be careful when reassembling it to put it in the correct orientation, or it will work incorrectly - i.e. backwards (light on when in gear, light off in neutral).

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moffat
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Re: neutral light

Postby moffat » Tue Aug 10, 2010 9:03 am

Did you sort this problem out please as its the same problem I have with my GL1000z.
The neutral light is bright when in neutral and goes dimmer when in gear. This happens intermittantly so I am going to change the neutral switch. The HAYNES workshop manual tells me that the switch will NOT come out of the engine casing and clear the fvrame unless the bottom engine securing bolt is removed and the frame sprung by some 2 millimetre?
Regards
David Moffat

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thrasherg
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Re: neutral light

Postby thrasherg » Tue Aug 10, 2010 2:18 pm

Often the neutral wire also goes to a disable circuit (to only allow the starter motor to operate when in Neutral or when the clutch lever is pulled in) and that circuit can cause the neutral bulb to glow dimly!! Usually means replacing a diode in the wiring loom (this is what I have seen on other Honda's not specifically the goldwing), just something else to consider.

Gary

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moffat
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Re: neutral light

Postby moffat » Thu Aug 12, 2010 3:34 pm

Thanks gary. I have removed the wire to the neutral switch and grounded it. The green nuetral indicaro light comes on glowing brighty as it does when the gearbox is in Nuetral. When I remove the wire from ground the light goes out.
Reconnecting the wire and selecting neutral the light glows brightly but when in gear the light is dim.( sometimes it works OK?)
I think the problem is with the switch and am going to replace it with a new one in spite of the difficuly removing the switch as per the manual.
Will keep ypou informed as to the outcome!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
David

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thrasherg
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Re: neutral light

Postby thrasherg » Thu Aug 12, 2010 5:39 pm

It certainly sounds like your neutral switch based on the test results you list. Good luck changing the switch, I haven't done it on a goldwing, but on most motorbikes it is not too difficult.

Gary

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moffat
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Re: neutral light

Postby moffat » Fri Aug 13, 2010 3:46 am

The new switch has arrived and I plan to fit it today. The job is extremely difficult on a GL1000 as its virtually inaccesable due to the bottom right hand frame lug being in the way. If Honda had made the right hand side of the bottom frame removable instead of the left it would be easy. However we all have a phd in hindsight as my wife is constantly pointing out!
Will inform on the outcome on way or another.
David

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moffat
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Re: neutral light

Postby moffat » Fri Aug 13, 2010 8:47 am

Manged to fit the neutral indicator switch, not as difficult as I thought in the end. The job took we about 2 hours after all preperation.

Procedure as follows-
- obtain new neutral switch and its O ring
- drain off engine oil.
-Remove long lower engine mounting bolt under the front of the engine and remove the smaller engine mounting bolt just above the rear brake lever.
-Use a wooden tapered wedge between the engine and the frame as it obscures the switch. Reason for this is that there is not enough room to remove the switch as it fouls the frame. Thus the the frame has to sprung away from the engine ( about 5/16th of an inch gap is required, this can be seen by looking at the distance between the bottom bolt fixing and the engine itself)
- cut the wire connecting the switch as its difficult to undo the screw in the centre of switch due to poor access and the inevitable corrosion.
-remove the 10 mm bolt holding a claw which keep the switch in position.
- remove the large gauze oil pump cover using a cut down Allen key.( due to short space standard length is too long.
- place a rag in the filter mouth to prevent debris entering the crankcase.
- remove the neutral switch to the rear of the machine.
- replace switch with the cut off wire connected to the central connector with a new O ring and replace the gauze filter cover after removing the cloth again with a new gasket seal.
Replace the engine mounting bolts and rejoin the neutrl switch wire with a connector or better still solder the ends together and use shrink wrap insulation.

- replace the engine Oil to the correct level
I leaned the machine over to the left ensuring that it was resting on wooden planks
Hope this helps someone
David

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thrasherg
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Re: neutral light

Postby thrasherg » Fri Aug 13, 2010 9:05 am

But did it fix the problem of the Neutral light!! Thanks for sharing what needs to be done..

Gary

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moffat
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Re: neutral light

Postby moffat » Fri Aug 13, 2010 9:18 am

Gary,
Yes it cured the problem. The old switch was defective with a high resistance when it should have been open circuit. I tested both switches alonside each other before fitting the new switch. The old switch now resides at the bottom of the rubbish bin !!

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moffat
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Re: neutral light

Postby moffat » Tue Aug 17, 2010 6:56 am

Gary,
Now another glitch.
When I press the started button when the bike is in gear and the clutch lever pulled all that happens is that the lights go out asn though there is a short circuit. Am I correct in assuming that the bike should start whilst in gear if the clutch is disengaged?
Regards
David

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thrasherg
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Re: neutral light

Postby thrasherg » Wed Aug 18, 2010 11:15 am

David,

The bike is suppose to be able to start in gear with the clutch pulled in. If the bike starts normally in neutral, then I would suspect that your clutch switch is defective (Assuming your clutch is not dragging heavily). The switch often gets dirty and stops working. If you look at the clutch lever mounting on the handlebar you should see some wires going into the clutch mounting, these wires go to the clutch switch so follow them and find the switch, you should be able to gain access to the switch from underneath. Take it out and clean it.

Gary

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moffat
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Re: neutral light

Postby moffat » Thu Aug 19, 2010 8:33 am

Thanks gary have orderered a new clutch lever swich and will fit it tomorrow as thats the problem.
Thanks and regards
David
PS What is SEAFOAM? Its unavailable in the UK

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thrasherg
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Re: neutral light

Postby thrasherg » Fri Aug 20, 2010 1:57 pm

It's the American equivalent of Redex in the UK. It an additive you can add to the oil or fuel to dissolve varnish and crud that has settled out of petroleum based products (such as oil and petrol)..

Gary

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moffat
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Re: neutral light

Postby moffat » Thu Aug 26, 2010 2:32 pm

I replaced the switch on the clutch lever and all is now well. Thanks for the info re SEAFOAM I have found a product sold by HOLFORDS under the name of WYNNES which appears to be a similar product.




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