GL1000 Electric system


Information and questions on GL1000 Goldwings (1975-1979)
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Larrys1911
Posts: 4
Joined: Sat Jul 18, 2009 9:24 am
Location: United States

GL1000 Electric system

Postby Larrys1911 » Sun Jul 01, 2012 5:14 pm



Hi all,

Im not new, I just lurk alot ...
But now I have a problem and I cant remember my electronics classes.

Im reading between .5 and 1.25 volt drop (compaired to the Battery voltage) at the fuse block.

I dont think you are supposed to have a voltage drop at the block are you? IE I am reading 12.5v at the battery (Not running) and at the block (headlamp fuse) I read 11.2-11.4v ish
Bike Running the voltage goes up but the drop is close to the same.

I can read the other fuses and they are close, within .5v of each other.

Ive checked the contunity and voltage drop threw both the Ign. & Starter switches and both are OK. (within .3v of battery)

If I disconnect the Headlight fuse I get within the .3v input again....... So I am assuming that I have a problem with the fuse block itself?? I also checked the ground from battery to frame and it shows almost no resistence so I assume its good.

Full Disclosure on this bike... when I got it it was a literal basket case and the wiring harness had been cut into about 25 pcs. (story was the guy didnt like the honda wiring and thought he could do better) I got it wired enough to make sure it would run and then bought a replacement harness from ebay... Everything seems to be OK but the headlight is Dim on high so yesterday I spent all day trying to track down a problem and found my headlight on my (New to me fairing) had a broken blade so that problem seems to be solved but I still dont think I should be reading that much less voltage than the battery output.

Thanks for any help Im sure I left some stuff out so if you need more info let me know.

Larry



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WingAdmin
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Re: GL1000 Electric system

Postby WingAdmin » Sun Jul 01, 2012 8:43 pm

With a bike that old, the connectors are going to be old. Old connectors oxidize and become loose, and loose, oxidized connectors act as resistors, which drop voltage. They also heat up in the process.

Try disconnecting any connectors you can get to, spraying them clean with a quality contact cleaner, checking for tightness, and refitting - and that includes the fuse holders.


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