Bleeding brakes


Information and questions on GL1000 Goldwings (1975-1979)
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twaggoner
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Location: Mooresville, IN
Motorcycle: 1977 GL1000

Bleeding brakes

Postby twaggoner » Sun Jul 01, 2012 3:34 pm



I looked through your "How To Articles" to get an answer and could not find it so I will ask directly, if that is alright. I have taken apart and cleaned my front brake master cylinder. After reading my owners manuel I am unable to duplicate the procedure and obtain the needed results. Advanced auto has a brake line bleed kit that I can rent. Will it fit the calipers on my 77 GL1000 to use the vacuum method to pull the fluid through the lines? Or is there another way to refill the lines without pumping the brake handle for an incredibly frustrating long time. Any advice would be great and I truly appreciate all of the helps that you have posted.



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WingAdmin
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Re: Bleeding brakes

Postby WingAdmin » Sun Jul 01, 2012 8:41 pm

Any vacuum bleeder should fit any brake system - car, motorcycle, whatever. All you need is the hose to fit over the bleed nipple. Anything that can create vacuum and can be slipped over that bleed nipple will work just fine. Trying to bleed the brakes on a Goldwing by pumping the brake lever is really an exercise in frustration. It's tough to get them primed. The vacuum bleeder is definitely the way to go.

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Fred Camper
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Motorcycle: 1977 GL1000, 1976 LTD GL1000

Re: Bleeding brakes

Postby Fred Camper » Sun Jul 01, 2012 10:03 pm

The splitter on early wings retains air. Eliminating that helps a bunch.

Another tip I to use silicone grease on the bleeder ports so they do not pull on air with the vacuum bleeder.

Eliminating the splitter means a solution is needed for the brake switch and new hoses as well. But if your hoses are getting replaced anyway, it is a nice mod to consider.

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twaggoner
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Joined: Mon Oct 31, 2011 6:28 pm
Location: Mooresville, IN
Motorcycle: 1977 GL1000

Re: Bleeding brakes

Postby twaggoner » Mon Jul 02, 2012 5:19 am

Thank you for your responses! I am going to looking into the bleeding kit at Advanced Auto. Also, If you have did the splitter mod on your GL, how did you work around the brake light switch issue? Thanks again.

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Fred Camper
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Motorcycle: 1977 GL1000, 1976 LTD GL1000

Re: Bleeding brakes

Postby Fred Camper » Mon Jul 02, 2012 8:30 am

The early GLs have a 19 mm master cylinder piston. Braking power is fine yet lever effort is high compared to bikes of today. Honda was perhaps afraid of front brake lockup? A master of 14 to 16 mm works better for effort. Randakk and others sell appropriate masters that include a brake light switch.

sfruechte
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Location: La Crosse, WI
Motorcycle: 1977 GL1000

Re: Bleeding brakes

Postby sfruechte » Thu Jul 05, 2012 7:57 pm

You should be able bleed the front one just using gravity. Worst case, all you really need is an old battery breather hose that will fit over the bleed fitting, open the bleeder, hold the end of the hose up and pump the brakes. Pumping will force air out and eventually brake fluid into the hose. The brake fluid in the hose will keep air from coming back in. When you see brake fluid in the hose, shut the bleeder. This works good on autos too and makes bleeding brakes an easy, cheap, one man job.

Tootsieroll*Douglas
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Re: Bleeding brakes

Postby Tootsieroll*Douglas » Wed Jan 22, 2014 10:50 am

I have discovered, through my experience with Radio controlled model airplanes, that using a $15.00 fuel pump available from Hangar 9 Hobbies as well as other Hobby Retailers, works quite well for bleeding brakes. Just charge the pump with fresh brake fluid and hook it onto the caliper bleeder nipple. Be sure to remove the master cylinder resevior top. Have a helper watch the fluid level in the master cylinder while you slowly pump fresh brake fluid into the caliper and upstream to the master cylinder. When the master cylinder is close to full, use a syringe to syphon fluid out to avoid spilling. Once all air bubbles are gone, you should have good brake pressure and be good to go.

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Fred Camper
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Re: Bleeding brakes

Postby Fred Camper » Wed Jan 22, 2014 7:57 pm

Thank you Tootsieroll, sounds like a great idea. I have found that gravity is all that is needed if you remove the splitter, but for those with a OEM front brake splitter putting the two calipers into one line to the master cylinder the pump and syringe is an excellent plan.




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