blown 30 Amp fuse woe's


Information and questions on GL1000 Goldwings (1975-1979)
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goldie78
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Blown 30 amp main fuse

Postby goldie78 » Sat Jul 07, 2012 10:14 am



Last week i was riding my 78 gl1000 and all of a sudden NOTHING :cry: radio dead, bike stopped running, :o nothing all at once. I tracked it down to a blown main fuse by the battery. Ended up breaking the glass of a 20 amp fuse, flattening the round ends flat and finnigling it between the 2 screws holding the spade style fuse and got her home. My problem now is this. When she's running either at an idle or down the road, my amp gauge does not read the same, sometimes charging about 13 volts sometimes not charging , showing a discharge in the gauge, but the bike seemed to run fine. When starting her, it shows as charging sometimes quickly, sometimes it takes a mile down the road to show thats it's charging. :?: Also,the temp gauge didn't move off from cold. I did stop her every so often to make sure she didn't over heat.
Any help please will be appreciated.
Thank you Dan



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seabee_
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Re: Blown 30 amp main fuse

Postby seabee_ » Sat Jul 07, 2012 10:22 am

You might take a look at the 7 volt regulator, for the guages. It's different then the regulator for the stator. I'm pretty sure your Goldwing has one. Don't remember it's location. You might have to look in the repair manual for the location.
Paul
CE1 Navy Seabees/RET
1981 to 2002
ASE Mechanic

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goldie78
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blown 30 Amp fuse woe's

Postby goldie78 » Sun Jul 08, 2012 5:35 am

Last week i was riding my 78 gl1000 and all of a sudden NOTHING radio dead, bike stopped running, nothing all at once. I tracked it down to a blown main fuse by the battery. Ended up breaking the glass of a 20 amp fuse, flattening the round ends flat and finnigling it between the 2 screws holding the spade style fuse and got her home. My problem now is this. When she's running either at an idle or down the road, my amp gauge does not read the same, sometimes charging about 13 volts sometimes not charging , showing a discharge in the gauge, but the bike seemed to run fine. When starting her, it shows as charging sometimes quickly, sometimes it takes a mile down the road to show thats it's charging. Also,the temp gauge didn't move off from cold. I did stop her every so often to make sure she didn't over heat. I was told possibly the 7Volt regulator is bad? I see it in my wire schematic but not on the bike. Does anyone know it's location?
Any help please will be appreciated.
Thank you Dan

Read more: viewtopic.php?f=16&t=12377#ixzz201fBKRMc

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Fred Camper
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Re: blown 30 Amp fuse woe's

Postby Fred Camper » Sun Jul 08, 2012 6:05 am

First, check the three yellow wires that come out of the stator. Honda used a three pin connection known to fail on all bikes. Has that connection been eliminated? If not, get that three pin out and solder up the wires in any order.

On my 1977 the seven volt regulator is in the left side shelter, very low and centered between the lo
wer hinges.

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Re: Blown 30 amp main fuse

Postby WingAdmin » Sun Jul 08, 2012 12:35 pm

The 7 volt regulator is only used for fuel and temp gauges. I would first, replace your main fuse with a 30 amp blade fuse holder and a 30 amp blade fuse, then take a close look at the condition of your stator plug (search "three yellow wires" for more info on this).

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goldie78
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Re: Blown 30 amp main fuse

Postby goldie78 » Sun Jul 08, 2012 6:35 pm

UPDATE:
Installed a New 30 Amp fuse block instead of the Old dog bone style fuse,
Removed the stator 'plug' and for now just installed male female spades.
Tested A, B, C, continuity between all;
Checked A to ground, B to ground C to ground, no continuity between all
(didn't want to solder yet in case i need to check further)
I read elsewhere on this site that temp gauge and fuel gauge both work off the 7V regulator, I turn the key on and the gas gauge moves up to full,but the temp never moves from below blue.
The regulator mounted to the left side of the false tank reads 6.82 V on the Yellow wire and 12.70V on the Black wire at idle (1450 rpm) ..... 7.16 V and 13.10 at 3500 RPM.
Fan blower does kick on after idling after a bit but never shut off on it's own, only til after i shut the bike down and the fan blew until cool. Is that normal tho for the fan not to shut off by itself at idle?
Is my water pump bad?

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Fred Camper
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Re: Blown 30 amp main fuse

Postby Fred Camper » Sun Jul 08, 2012 7:19 pm

If you solder up those three stator wires, you can still check the stator output at the 8 pin connector in the same area. So no harm in soldering them.

Regarding the fan, sounds like your temperature sending unit is questionable or has a bad connection. Regarding the fan switch, I would not do anything about that as it makes the fan run and once your reading the coolant temperature you will be able to decide if it is leaving the fan on after the bike returns to normal operating temperature. For now, just track down that coolant temperature sensor. In the 1978 color wiring schematic it shows the wire as green with a blue or gray stripe. In Clymer it calls the wire L/G which is Green with a blue stripe I think.

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Re: blown 30 Amp fuse woe's

Postby WingAdmin » Tue Jul 10, 2012 12:55 pm

It could be a number of things. If the main 30 amp fuse is intermittent, it will cause intermittent charging. Your stator plug (three yellow wires) could be bad, you should just cut that out and solder it if you haven't already. You could have a bad ground, check the ground cable from the battery to the frame, as well as the quality of the contact between it and the frame. The regulator or rectifier could be failing.

The 7 volt regulator controls only the temperature and fuel gauges - if only one is malfunctioning, then the problem is not the 7 volt regulator.

unkle buckie
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Re: blown 30 Amp fuse woe's

Postby unkle buckie » Mon Mar 07, 2016 1:28 pm

WingAdmin wrote:It could be a number of things. If the main 30 amp fuse is intermittent, it will cause intermittent charging. Your stator plug (three yellow wires) could be bad, you should just cut that out and solder it if you haven't already. You could have a bad ground, check the ground cable from the battery to the frame, as well as the quality of the contact between it and the frame. The regulator or rectifier could be failing.

The 7 volt regulator controls only the temperature and fuel gauges - if only one is malfunctioning, then the problem is not the 7 volt regulator.



i've been trying to find out what gauge those three yellow wires are... if i remove the connection box i'll have a gap, so i need something to assist in the splicing/soldering/shrink wrap. any info for me?

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Re: blown 30 Amp fuse woe's

Postby WingAdmin » Mon Mar 07, 2016 1:35 pm

unkle buckie wrote:
WingAdmin wrote:It could be a number of things. If the main 30 amp fuse is intermittent, it will cause intermittent charging. Your stator plug (three yellow wires) could be bad, you should just cut that out and solder it if you haven't already. You could have a bad ground, check the ground cable from the battery to the frame, as well as the quality of the contact between it and the frame. The regulator or rectifier could be failing.

The 7 volt regulator controls only the temperature and fuel gauges - if only one is malfunctioning, then the problem is not the 7 volt regulator.



i've been trying to find out what gauge those three yellow wires are... if i remove the connection box i'll have a gap, so i need something to assist in the splicing/soldering/shrink wrap. any info for me?


Whatever it is, it's too small, which is why you see overheating on them. I think they are 16 or 18 gauge. I used 14 gauge wire to "extend" mine when I cut out the connector, and that worked quite well. Make sure you cut back the yellow wires far enough that when stripped, the copper is bright and shiny, not black. If it's black, cut it back further and try again.

unkle buckie
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Re: blown 30 Amp fuse woe's

Postby unkle buckie » Mon Mar 07, 2016 1:55 pm

WingAdmin wrote:
unkle buckie wrote:
WingAdmin wrote:It could be a number of things. If the main 30 amp fuse is intermittent, it will cause intermittent charging. Your stator plug (three yellow wires) could be bad, you should just cut that out and solder it if you haven't already. You could have a bad ground, check the ground cable from the battery to the frame, as well as the quality of the contact between it and the frame. The regulator or rectifier could be failing.

The 7 volt regulator controls only the temperature and fuel gauges - if only one is malfunctioning, then the problem is not the 7 volt regulator.



i've been trying to find out what gauge those three yellow wires are... if i remove the connection box i'll have a gap, so i need something to assist in the splicing/soldering/shrink wrap. any info for me?


Whatever it is, it's too small, which is why you see overheating on them. I think they are 16 or 18 gauge. I used 14 gauge wire to "extend" mine when I cut out the connector, and that worked quite well. Make sure you cut back the yellow wires far enough that when stripped, the copper is bright and shiny, not black. If it's black, cut it back further and try again.


thanks for the swift reply. i've been going through SEVERAL different threads on SEVERAL different forums and guess what: SEVERAL different answers... i've read everything from 10, 12, 14, 16, and 18 gauge. not being terribly experienced in this MacGyver department, i'm a tad hesitant as i don't want to turn a drama into a crisis...i note you reduced gauge size from a presumed 16 or 18 to 14. why was that, and would you reccommend i do something similar? your opinion is much appreciated

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Re: blown 30 Amp fuse woe's

Postby WingAdmin » Mon Mar 07, 2016 3:40 pm

unkle buckie wrote:thanks for the swift reply. i've been going through SEVERAL different threads on SEVERAL different forums and guess what: SEVERAL different answers... i've read everything from 10, 12, 14, 16, and 18 gauge. not being terribly experienced in this MacGyver department, i'm a tad hesitant as i don't want to turn a drama into a crisis...i note you reduced gauge size from a presumed 16 or 18 to 14. why was that, and would you reccommend i do something similar? your opinion is much appreciated


I prefer to over-engineer things, to prevent future failure.

Might I get away with a 16 gauge, or even an 18 gauge wire, without a problem? Perhaps, even probably. But rather than find out the hard way that I can't get away with it, when it melts and leaves me stranded 300 miles from home, I'd much rather use the 14 gauge, which I KNOW will work, and I know will never fail. I have lots of wire of all sizes, so I'll just pick the one I know will work, and will never fail. The difference in cost is so small as to be irrelevant.

10 and 12 is definitely overkill - ridiculous for something that is connected to wire that is 16 or 18 gauge.

unkle buckie
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Re: blown 30 Amp fuse woe's

Postby unkle buckie » Mon Mar 07, 2016 6:53 pm

WingAdmin wrote:
unkle buckie wrote:thanks for the swift reply. i've been going through SEVERAL different threads on SEVERAL different forums and guess what: SEVERAL different answers... i've read everything from 10, 12, 14, 16, and 18 gauge. not being terribly experienced in this MacGyver department, i'm a tad hesitant as i don't want to turn a drama into a crisis...i note you reduced gauge size from a presumed 16 or 18 to 14. why was that, and would you reccommend i do something similar? your opinion is much appreciated


I prefer to over-engineer things, to prevent future failure.

Might I get away with a 16 gauge, or even an 18 gauge wire, without a problem? Perhaps, even probably. But rather than find out the hard way that I can't get away with it, when it melts and leaves me stranded 300 miles from home, I'd much rather use the 14 gauge, which I KNOW will work, and I know will never fail. I have lots of wire of all sizes, so I'll just pick the one I know will work, and will never fail. The difference in cost is so small as to be irrelevant.

10 and 12 is definitely overkill - ridiculous for something that is connected to wire that is 16 or 18 gauge.


thanks for clearing that up. i agree with you on the over-engineering: may as well whilst you can. i've 2 further questions if i may... i've literally whittled away the connection block, leaving the male/female connectors exposed. whats to prevent me (if anything) from soldering and shrink wrapping around each individual connection? also re the 30amp dogbone fuse, could this be the reason why i'm not getting so much as a blip when i try and start 'er up?
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Re: blown 30 Amp fuse woe's

Postby WingAdmin » Tue Mar 08, 2016 9:59 am

unkle buckie wrote:thanks for clearing that up. i agree with you on the over-engineering: may as well whilst you can. i've 2 further questions if i may... i've literally whittled away the connection block, leaving the male/female connectors exposed. whats to prevent me (if anything) from soldering and shrink wrapping around each individual connection? also re the 30amp dogbone fuse, could this be the reason why i'm not getting so much as a blip when i try and start 'er up?


As for the yellow wire connectors - if there was heat damage, I would recommend removing the connectors, stripping the wires back to clean copper, and soldering wire in place. The reason for this is that the connectors themselves are not soldered to the wires - they are still just crimped.

If you can get solder to flow into the connector where the wire crimp is, then it would indicate that there is no oxidation on either the connector, or more importantly, the wire. If this is the case, then yes, you could likely safely plug the connectors together, solder them, and shrink wrap, and be done with it.

If solder does not flow into the connector where the wire is crimped, I would still cut the wire, strip back to clean shiny copper, and splice in wire to replace the connectors.

As for your dogbone fuse, it (and the fuse block) are in sad shape. I would remove the dogbone fuse and the screws. Soak the screws in vinegar for a few hours, and scrub off the rusty paste that results. Take some sandpaper and get rid of the corrosion on the contacts. Clean everything up with electrical contact cleaner, and install a 30 amp blade fuse holder in place of the dogbone fuse. You can find that procedure (and sources for the dogbone fuse) in many places on this site if you do a search.

unkle buckie
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Re: blown 30 Amp fuse woe's

Postby unkle buckie » Tue Mar 08, 2016 9:29 pm

WingAdmin wrote:
unkle buckie wrote:thanks for clearing that up. i agree with you on the over-engineering: may as well whilst you can. i've 2 further questions if i may... i've literally whittled away the connection block, leaving the male/female connectors exposed. whats to prevent me (if anything) from soldering and shrink wrapping around each individual connection? also re the 30amp dogbone fuse, could this be the reason why i'm not getting so much as a blip when i try and start 'er up?


As for the yellow wire connectors - if there was heat damage, I would recommend removing the connectors, stripping the wires back to clean copper, and soldering wire in place. The reason for this is that the connectors themselves are not soldered to the wires - they are still just crimped.

If you can get solder to flow into the connector where the wire crimp is, then it would indicate that there is no oxidation on either the connector, or more importantly, the wire. If this is the case, then yes, you could likely safely plug the connectors together, solder them, and shrink wrap, and be done with it.

If solder does not flow into the connector where the wire is crimped, I would still cut the wire, strip back to clean shiny copper, and splice in wire to replace the connectors.

As for your dogbone fuse, it (and the fuse block) are in sad shape. I would remove the dogbone fuse and the screws. Soak the screws in vinegar for a few hours, and scrub off the rusty paste that results. Take some sandpaper and get rid of the corrosion on the contacts. Clean everything up with electrical contact cleaner, and install a 30 amp blade fuse holder in place of the dogbone fuse. You can find that procedure (and sources for the dogbone fuse) in many places on this site if you do a search.



many thanks for the reply. i'm already on the replacement fuse set up, but now i'm having difficulty removing the bloody solenoid ! do i prise it from the rubber strapping ? pop it out the top ? should i disconnect the two wires coming from the blind side of it first ?




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