Rear Wheel Swap Question


Information and questions on GL1000 Goldwings (1975-1979)
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wjnfirearms
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Rear Wheel Swap Question

Postby wjnfirearms » Thu Nov 08, 2012 8:46 am



Being I'm admittedly inexperienced with maintenance of a Wing being a newbie to them, I'm going to ask a question that has probably been asked & answered many times before. I looked at the DIY sequence for wheel removal on an 1100, but there looks to be driveline differences between the 1000s and 1100s, so I don't see that part of the sequence as applicable here. Nobody did a DIY on the 1000s, surprisingly.

I'm going to do a rear wheel swap shortly as I have another complete wheel/tire to put on the 1000. The Honda manual puts the procedure as being pretty simple and straightforward, but experience shows me that things that are often told to be simple sometimes aren't. That's the cynic in me coming out.

Other than making sure that the bike is supported well and the rear wheel is off the ground, are there any tricks and/or steps that I should be doing to insure a simple and uncomplicated swap? One thing that concerns me is fender clearance as the fender is not a two piece one as are found on the newer Wings. Separation of the wheel from the shaft drive is also a concern. I'm way too used to chain drives and the only bike I ever had previously with shaft drive I never had occasion to remove the rear wheel. Also, are there any maintenance steps that I should be looking to do at this time with the rear wheel off?

The graciousness of the board, as always, is appreciated.


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Fred Camper
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Re: Rear Wheel Swap Question

Postby Fred Camper » Sun Nov 11, 2012 8:48 pm

Seems like you may need to ask the question over at NGWClub.com. I searched and it seems the rear is not a direct swap but I suspect someone has detailed what it would take to get an 1100 rear wheel on a GL1000.

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Re: Rear Wheel Swap Question

Postby Old Fogey » Sat Nov 17, 2012 7:53 pm

Not sure that is what he's asking . I think he just needs removal and re-fitting info on the 1000 wheel.
1) bike on centre stand.
2) undo brake caliper locating bolt (Chrome bolt in the swing arm)
3) remove split pin from the axle nut and remove nut.
4) put a block under the wheel and remove the bottom bolts from the shock absorbers
5) remove axle, catching the axle spacer and the brake caliper. Wire or tie it up out of the way.
6) Pull the wheel towards the left side of the bike and remove it.
7) Pull the drive 'spider' out of the wheel, using a three leg puller if it's stuck, and lightly grease the five spider 'legs' before refitting it.
8) Clean the splines on the 'five legged spider' ( Honda call it the Flange) and also the matching splines in the drive unit.
9) Coat them with 60% Moly grease (available from Honda dealers)

Mounting the wheel is simply the reverse but before you do, this is the time to the maintenance on the drive shaft.
(You can see why here!) http://www.wingovations.com/#/gl1000-k0 ... 4550856105

10) Remove the 3 final drive unit nuts and pull it off the swing arm.
11) Clean the drive shaft coupling and joint splines and grease with the same Moly grease.
12) Replace the drive unit but do NOT tighten up the 3 nuts fully.
13) Mount the wheel back into the drive unit, and refit the caliper, spacer and axle.
14) Tighten the axle nut up just enough to align all the components.
15) Tighten the 3 final drive nuts.
16) Tighten up the axle nut to 58 - 72 ft/lbs and fit new split pin.
Image Image

'Impossible' is just a level of difficulty! The only stupid question is the one you didn't ask first!

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wjnfirearms
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Re: Rear Wheel Swap Question

Postby wjnfirearms » Sun Nov 18, 2012 7:46 pm

Thanks, old guy. I had the sequence in writing, but was looking for any wisdom out there from those that did it before. I'm basically used to chain drives as the only shaft drive bike I ever had was gone before it needed a teardown.

I finally had time to myself to do the swap today. It was basically as simple as the manual says it is. The only thing was lifting the entire final drive up with the wheel still attached after the shocks and caliper are removed. I fixed this easily by using a bottle jack and placing it under the final drive and raising it up. The wheel came off easily and wasn't a big deal to finesse under the back fender and out. Replacing it was no bigger a deal.

I didn't remove the final drive though I considered it. I didn't get any Moly 60 and just used regular axle/bearing high temperature grease for the drive at the wheel coupling since I already had a supply on board after I cleaned it thoroughly. I'll have to get some 60 and taking it back off again won't be a big deal, especially since I did it once already and see how everything goes.
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Fred Camper
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Re: Rear Wheel Swap Question

Postby Fred Camper » Sun Nov 18, 2012 9:56 pm

Not a lot of movement in there so your high temperature wheel bearing grease should be fine until that wheel needs to come off again for a tire.




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