Fitting front and wheel wheel.


Information and questions on GL1000 Goldwings (1975-1979)
  • Sponsored Links
javard
Posts: 2
Joined: Wed Aug 10, 2011 4:53 pm
Location: Sydney, New South Wales, Australia
Motorcycle: 1975 gl1000

Fitting front and wheel wheel.

Postby javard » Sun Nov 11, 2012 10:24 pm



Refitting my front wheel. When I torque the axle nut to 42ft/lb, the wheel no longer turns. I check the bearings, they are O.K, I torque the nut again, too tight. Anybody got any ideas? Also, does anyone know the correct torque for the 6 x 14mm flange nuts that hold on the drive gadget (the round thing with teeth that plugs into the final drive) that sits in the centre of the rear wheel?

Thank you :(

Jeremy



User avatar
Fred Camper
Posts: 1157
Joined: Sun Aug 16, 2009 9:15 pm
Location: Metro Detroit, MI
Motorcycle: 1977 GL1000, 1976 LTD GL1000

Re: Fitting front and wheel wheel.

Postby Fred Camper » Mon Nov 12, 2012 6:14 am

Sounds like the axle is spinning and not the bearings, so when you tighten the nuts and secure the axle then nothing spins. Did the axle slide in easy or hard?

User avatar
WingAdmin
Site Admin
Posts: 17050
Joined: Fri Oct 03, 2008 4:16 pm
Location: Strongsville, OH
Motorcycle: 2000 GL1500 SE
1982 GL1100A Aspencade (sold)
1989 PC800 (wife's!)
1998 XV250 Virago (sold)
2007 Aspen Sentry Trailer

Re: Fitting front and wheel wheel.

Postby WingAdmin » Mon Nov 12, 2012 10:40 am

javard wrote:Refitting my front wheel. When I torque the axle nut to 42ft/lb, the wheel no longer turns. I check the bearings, they are O.K, I torque the nut again, too tight. Anybody got any ideas? Also, does anyone know the correct torque for the 6 x 14mm flange nuts that hold on the drive gadget (the round thing with teeth that plugs into the final drive) that sits in the centre of the rear wheel?


After you torque the nut, before the wheel is installed, can you rotate the axle in the wheel? It should be able to turn freely, rotating the bearings in place.

As for the 6 flange nuts, I think you're talking about these (picture shown is GL1100, where there are only 5):

Image

If so...you're not suppose to remove those. As you can see in the picture above, that whole assembly pulls out in one piece, with the pins seating into the rubber damper bushings in the wheel as shown:

GL1000 driven flange
GL1000 driven flange


Those flange nuts are used to hold the flange fixing bolts in place to the final drive flange. I find no torque information anywhere in the service manual for them. So...being that they aren't supposed to be removed, I would throw a bit of loctite on them, and torque them to your "best guess." :)

Once they're back in place, pull that final drive flange (including the pins, or "fixing bolts" as Honda calls them) up out of the wheel and inspect the condition of the bushings.


GL1000 driven flange
GL1000 driven flange

User avatar
thrasherg
Posts: 1839
Joined: Tue Oct 20, 2009 11:21 am
Location: Plano, TX
Motorcycle: 2004 GL1800, 2005 Honda Shadow 750, 2008 Yamaha R6 with RG500 engine, CRF450X, CRF230, CRF250X, XR200, CR500

Re: Fitting front and wheel wheel.

Postby thrasherg » Mon Nov 12, 2012 2:03 pm

I would be checking that you have the distance collar in both wheels and that the bearings are correctly seated, if that tube is missing (or the bearings are not seated correctly) then as you tighten the axle, you squeeze the bearings inwards and that will jam the wheel very quickly (It also buggers the bearings).

Gary

javard
Posts: 2
Joined: Wed Aug 10, 2011 4:53 pm
Location: Sydney, New South Wales, Australia
Motorcycle: 1975 gl1000

Re: Fitting front and wheel wheel.

Postby javard » Tue Nov 13, 2012 6:02 pm

Thanks for the replies.
About the front wheel. The spacer inbetween the bearings has not been removed. Yes it is spinning on the axle not the bearings. I will have to pull apart and look again but this wheel just had discs removed and a new tyre fitted and not dismantled so neither bearings or dust seal was removed and the centre spacer can't escape unless you remove one bearing from either side. Think I will replace the bearings, they don't cost much.

Rear was totally dismantled and professionally relaced/rebuilt, I think I must have taken the nuts off that centre piece but not a problem rebolting as 6 male splines things that go into the rubber inserts on the wheel seem to be tapered and not removed. So I just need to get a reasonable torque on them I think.

Any other ideas welcome. Thanks again :D




Return to “GL1000 Information & Questions”




Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest