kill switch - insides?


Information and questions on GL1000 Goldwings (1975-1979)
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db1975
Posts: 3
Joined: Fri May 06, 2011 9:05 am
Location: Perth, Australia
Motorcycle: 1975 GL1000 242nd GW in Aust

kill switch - insides?

Postby db1975 » Mon May 20, 2013 7:22 am



Hi Guys,

I have a barn find 1975 gl1000 i am just starting on and following the tips from you all in seeing why i have no spark at the plug, I have started with cleaning the kill switch. Now when i took off the top red part of the switch, i found the ball bearing and a spring. I have attached a photo to show you what i mean. Can you please tell me if the spring is all that there is to bridge between the two contacts on the part on the handlebars? I find it hard to see that this is all there is...surely there was something that fits in the spring?????



BTW...bypassed the kill switch anyway and still no spark...on to step 2.

thanks

Duane



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virgilmobile
Posts: 7649
Joined: Sun Sep 19, 2010 5:39 pm
Location: Denham Springs,La.
Motorcycle: 1988 GL1500 I
Previously owned
78 GL1000
81 GL1100
82 GL1100 I
83 GL1100 I
83 GL1100 standard
84 GL 1200 I

Re: kill switch - insides?

Postby virgilmobile » Mon May 20, 2013 11:44 am

The ball stops the switch in a detent...The spring should have a copper/brass "U" shaped shorting bar on it that makes contact to the electrical studs.
Does the bike still have points or has it been converted to electronic ignition.?

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db1975
Posts: 3
Joined: Fri May 06, 2011 9:05 am
Location: Perth, Australia
Motorcycle: 1975 GL1000 242nd GW in Aust

Re: kill switch - insides?

Postby db1975 » Mon May 20, 2013 11:52 am

thanks, i was figuring a t shape with the stem in the spring....only one letter out...i'll make something and try it...

still the old points.....they're next.....

turns out the switch had to come off anyway because the two yellow wires for the headlight had come off too and need resoldering....


thanks
Duane

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virgilmobile
Posts: 7649
Joined: Sun Sep 19, 2010 5:39 pm
Location: Denham Springs,La.
Motorcycle: 1988 GL1500 I
Previously owned
78 GL1000
81 GL1100
82 GL1100 I
83 GL1100 I
83 GL1100 standard
84 GL 1200 I

Re: kill switch - insides?

Postby virgilmobile » Mon May 20, 2013 12:09 pm

Using small tools and a file...Flatten a piece of copper wire and bend to the width needed to short the 2 contacts...the spring should provide the pressure for a good contact.

There's plenty of information here about the point system...Don't forget the ballast resistor...
It's attached to the coils and has 2 wires on it....Download the schematic for the wiring...
When you "set" the points...read about the "split the difference" method.....
It really does make a difference with performance.

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aussiegold
Posts: 92
Joined: Sat Jun 25, 2011 3:02 am
Location: Australia
Motorcycle: 1975 Goldwing (No 8 to come to Oz )
1976 LTD cleverly diguised as an 81 interstate
1976 LTD.. a feller with 2 LTD's can't be all bad.....

Re: kill switch - insides?

Postby aussiegold » Tue May 21, 2013 5:04 am

db1975 wrote:thanks, i was figuring a t shape with the stem in the spring....only one letter out...i'll make something and try it...

still the old points.....they're next.....

turns out the switch had to come off anyway because the two yellow wires for the headlight had come off too and need resoldering....


thanks
Duane

hello from Mildura. just a note on those two yellow wires in the headlight switch. they come from one side of the stator and when
the headlight switch is turned on , they are joined together thereby giving full charging power to the battery.
i intercepted mine under the left hand shelter and made a short joining wire and joined them together under there. so, mine has
full charge all the time. this also eliminates power going through the switch ,hopefully prolonging its life. in tandem with this
mod, i also fitted a relay which powers the headlight, further reducing voltage running through that switch.
(these switches are made from unobtainium ) :D

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db1975
Posts: 3
Joined: Fri May 06, 2011 9:05 am
Location: Perth, Australia
Motorcycle: 1975 GL1000 242nd GW in Aust

Re: kill switch - insides?

Postby db1975 » Tue May 21, 2013 6:33 am

Thanks for the drawing virgilmobile...that looks straightforward - now. And i'll certainly search for the split the diff. I took the breaker cover off ( only one screw present and it was pretty dirty in there, so a good clean is in order) but ran out of time to do anything further. next time.

Well hello to Mildura. I rode through there last year on a charity ride from Perth to Canberra. Will be doing it again this year in September, but not on the GW. I did it a couple of years ago on my 1985 Moto Guzzi Cali II, but now i became a traitor to my principles and do it on my Road King. Maybe the year after it'll be the turn for the GW.
Thats interesting about the yellow wires and I'll read a bit more on that. Your mod makes good sense too. Thanks for the advice.

Regards
Duane

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virgilmobile
Posts: 7649
Joined: Sun Sep 19, 2010 5:39 pm
Location: Denham Springs,La.
Motorcycle: 1988 GL1500 I
Previously owned
78 GL1000
81 GL1100
82 GL1100 I
83 GL1100 I
83 GL1100 standard
84 GL 1200 I

Re: kill switch - insides?

Postby virgilmobile » Tue May 21, 2013 7:00 am

Uh,hold on there mate.The yellow wires from the stator are suppose to feed the rectifier block only.What modifications are you doing?
Never mind....I see what your talking about now.....Looks fine and the relay mod for the headlight works well too....
If any plug connection is corroded we usually just cut it off and solder the wires direct.
Pay close attention to the charging volts too....Sometimes it can get too high (above 14.5 volts) and boil a battery.This is cured by adding a relay to operate the regulator.

User avatar
aussiegold
Posts: 92
Joined: Sat Jun 25, 2011 3:02 am
Location: Australia
Motorcycle: 1975 Goldwing (No 8 to come to Oz )
1976 LTD cleverly diguised as an 81 interstate
1976 LTD.. a feller with 2 LTD's can't be all bad.....

Re: kill switch - insides?

Postby aussiegold » Tue May 21, 2013 8:09 am

virgilmobile wrote:Uh,hold on there mate.The yellow wires from the stator are suppose to feed the rectifier block only.What modifications are you doing?
Never mind....I see what your talking about now.....Looks fine and the relay mod for the headlight works well too....
If any plug connection is corroded we usually just cut it off and solder the wires direct.
Pay close attention to the charging volts too....Sometimes it can get too high (above 14.5 volts) and boil a battery.This is cured by adding a relay to operate the regulator.

i'll just clear a few points up. :) the AU/EURO models 75/77 were fitted with an on/off switch for the headlight. the US models had the headlight on all the time. so, US models have full charge all the time.
i dont agree with the idea of cutting out plugs and soldering wires together. in my experience it is far better to replace the plug (with new
male/female connectors and then sealing them from the elements with dielectric grease. problem solved. :D
the relay for the headlight is wired direct to the battery, the trigger is powered from the headlight switch wires, so the only voltage going through the switch is the tiny amount required to open the relay. the wiring is set up, so if the relay fails ( rare but it does happen) i can bypass the relay and go back to the stock system to get me home.




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