New Member -Need help! I just picked up this 78' beast.


Information and questions on GL1000 Goldwings (1975-1979)
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RyanSiler
Posts: 1
Joined: Wed Nov 06, 2013 11:46 am
Location: Lake Havasu City, Arizona
Motorcycle: "1978 GL1000"

New Member -Need help! I just picked up this 78' beast.

Postby RyanSiler » Fri Nov 08, 2013 11:26 am



First and foremost, I'm a long time lurker and a new member to the forums. I've been trying to relate my problems to the problems of other peoples here and adapt their solutions to mine, ultimately, I decided that I should try and seek specific solutions for my specific problems.

A few months ago I purchased a 78 GL1000, the guy was planning on turning it into a bobber but only got as far as stripping down the plastics and fenders. He used it as a daily driver and eventually let it sit. It wouldn't start, BUT, it was turning. PLUS it only has 55k original miles!

Initially, I took it into the shop and had the carbs redone and got it running.

A list of problems off the top of my head ranged from most important to least important:
~~~~~~I'll post pictures soon.

Smoke out of left tailpipe while running ( is worse while warming up)
Changing the oil to something with an additive has been suggested to me

Petcock seal from petcock to tank is busted and is leaking gas

Blinkers do not work

.Neutral light stays on

Speedometer Cable is missing

Not sure how to tell if I need new tires

How do I check if I need to change the timing belt?

Ignition is sticky, needs to be jiggled.

What sort of radiator fluid /oil is safe to use?

*Not sure how important this is but my rear shocks are completely blown (the oil is leaking from them). Do I need these right away? If so, can I use non OEM shocks?

I'm missing a bit of hardware (nuts, bolts,washers,etc) Where is the best place to get it?

---My ultimate goal for this bike is to be able to use it as a daily driver , but also being able to take it on trips if need be.
My goal from this post is to get as much information about what I need to get this beast running, street legal, and safe.
Any parts pricing or parts numbers would be greatly appreciated.
Any and all suggestions will be GREATLY appreciated.

SOON: I will be posting pictures and I can make a video of everything if everyone needs a more detailed description.

If there is anything that I didn't mention, but you can think should be gone over in a newly purchased Wing' please ask me or let me know

Thank you.

-Ryan



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Placerville
Posts: 423
Joined: Tue Mar 09, 2010 12:58 pm
Location: Placerville, CA
Motorcycle: 1976 Naked Yellow

Re: New Member -Need help! I just picked up this 78' beast.

Postby Placerville » Fri Nov 08, 2013 1:58 pm

RyanSiler wrote:Smoke out of left tailpipe while running ( is worse while warming up)
- Stop parking it on the side stand. Oil is migrating to the left side. Very common. Use the center stand at all times except for short stops.

Changing the oil to something with an additive has been suggested to me
- No oil additives are needed. Ever. Use the center stand. Use Rotella T1 15W/40 in your bike.

Petcock seal from petcock to tank is busted and is leaking gas
- Rebuild the entire petcock (not just the O rings). Or, better yet, buy a new one from Honda

Blinkers do not work
- Check the bulbs then the fuse. Then, trace the wires back (checking grounds) to their source. A color wiring schematic for your bike is available on this site.

Neutral light stays on
- Most likely, the neutral switch needs to be removed and rebuilt or replaced. It's a bear of a job. Check the switch at the clutch. If you're lucky, it's broken.

Speedometer Cable is missing
- Still available from Honda or aftermarket. Why is it missing? That's a good indication that the PO was trying to hide the 'real' mileage of the bike. (Take out the speedo cable and the odometer doesn't turn.) Also, the speedo itself may be frozen. You'll find out when you replace the cable.

Not sure how to tell if I need new tires
- Look at the manufacture date on the side wall. Regardless of the remaining tread, if they are over 5 years old, replace them.

How do I check if I need to change the timing belt?
- You don't. They look good up until the time they break (except for the broken ends). If you cannot positively determine that the belts have been changed within the last 5 years or 25K miles, replace them. Do not hedge on this or you'll pay the price.

Ignition is sticky, needs to be jiggled.
- They wear out. Emgo makes a very good replacement. Look for one on eBay.

What sort of radiator fluid /oil is safe to use?
- Use any non-silicate radiator fluid that's safe for aluminum engines. I use Peak. As mentioned above, Rotella Diesel oil is an excellent oil for motorcycles with wet clutches and is less expensive than other brands. Recommended by Randakk. Buy it at WalMart.

Not sure how important this is but my rear shocks are completely blown (the oil is leaking from them). Do I need these right away? If so, can I use non OEM shocks?
- These are no longer available from Honda. Replace them with used OEM's from eBay (a risk) or a new aftermarket set.

I'm missing a bit of hardware (nuts, bolts,washers,etc) Where is the best place to get it?
- You need to start using Honda's Web site for parts. Go here at Western Honda's on-line parts site and start looking around. Find your parts. A tip: If a part has a price, it's available. If the site says "Call for Price", that's 'Honda speak' for "We don't make it any more." IMHO, always make Honda your first source for parts. Keeping your bike original is a good thing.

My ultimate goal for this bike is to be able to use it as a daily driver , but also being able to take it on trips if need be.
My goal from this post is to get as much information about what I need to get this beast running, street legal, and safe.
Any parts pricing or parts numbers would be greatly appreciated. Any and all suggestions will be GREATLY appreciated.

- Again, get into the Honda site above and start doing your homework.

If there is anything that I didn't mention, but you can think should be gone over in a newly purchased Wing' please ask me or let me know
- Check your fuel tank for rust. If it's rusty (meaning, any rust), you'll need to clean it prior to doing any work on your carbs. A dirty tank will ruin your clean, rebuilt carbs.


I strongly urge you to go to Randakks site and read thru his 'New Owner' tutorials. There's much to learn there, on this site and at the NGW. Read and learn.
Placerville- 1976 Yellow
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thrasherg
Posts: 1837
Joined: Tue Oct 20, 2009 11:21 am
Location: Plano, TX
Motorcycle: 2004 GL1800, 2005 Honda Shadow 750, 2008 Yamaha R6 with RG500 engine, CRF450X, CRF230, CRF250X, XR200, CR500

Re: New Member -Need help! I just picked up this 78' beast.

Postby thrasherg » Fri Nov 08, 2013 2:00 pm

RyanSiler wrote:Smoke out of left tailpipe while running ( is worse while warming up) - this is fairly common as the bike leans to the left when on the side stand so some oil usually gets past the rings when the bike is parked and it then burns off when you start the engine. Unfortunately this burnt oil also causes the rings to stick a little bit, so the bike will burn a bit more oil next time, there is really nothing to do about it (using the center stand can help), just ride the bike a lot and check the oil level regularly.

Changing the oil to something with an additive has been suggested to me - Not needed, just use a good quality motorcycle oil

Petcock seal from petcock to tank is busted and is leaking gas - you will only be able to get this part from Honda (I doubt it is still available) but you might be able to find something at a car parts store that will fix it, otherwise purchase a manual fuel tap and replace the broken/leaking part.

Blinkers do not work - Do they light up and just not flash, or do they do nothing at all. Give us some more info and we can give suggestions. Likely a wiring fault or the flasher relay has died but can suggest more when you tell us more about what is and is not happening.

.Neutral light stays on - Likely a trapped wire shorting to the frame, you will need to locate the neutral switch on the engine, disconnect the wire coming from the switch and then check if the switch is working correctly. If it is, then you need to trace the wiring, if the switch is not working correctly, then you will need to remove it and clean it. I do NOT know how much work that is on your model of goldwing, hopefully others can make a suggestion.

Speedometer Cable is missing - You should be able to get this from Honda or purchase a pattern part from any of the large internet WEB stores, Bikebandit, etc.

Not sure how to tell if I need new tires - if there is no tread, you need a new tyre. If there is any cracking in the sidewall, you need a new tyre, if there is a flat spot on the tyre (because it was left on it's side stand for 10 years), you need a new tyre. I personally would replace the tyres, they are your only point of contact with the road and I like to be safe so new tyres are cheap insurance in my book.

How do I check if I need to change the timing belt? If in any doubt, just change it. The belts are made from rubber, they are replaced for 2 reasons, they have reached their service life, or they have become brittle from lack of use. It is generally recommended to change the belts every 5 years, if the belt fails, the damage to the engine is considerable. If you don't know when the belts where last changed, assume it was a long time ago and change them..

Ignition is sticky, needs to be jiggled. - try spraying WD40 or a contact cleaner into the lock barrel (Where the key goes) and then insert the key and turn the ignition on and off a few times. The cleaner will often loosen up and lubricate things so that they start working again..

What sort of radiator fluid /oil is safe to use? - You need to get Motorcycle oil NOT car oil. Our bikes have the clutch immersed in the engine oil and the friction modifiers used in car oils will cause the clutch to slip, you should be running a 10W40 or 20W50 grade of engine oil. also look at changing your brake fluid as it will be well past it's best!! you might also want to consider changing the oil in the shaft drive (after you get the bike all sorted out).

*Not sure how important this is but my rear shocks are completely blown (the oil is leaking from them). Do I need these right away? If so, can I use non OEM shocks? - shocks have a massive effect on handling, do not go for OEM shocks, they are VERY expensive and not that good. Look at some aftermarket shocks, they will still be expensive, but cheaper than OEM!! I would hold off changing the shocks until you get all the other work done and are ready to ride on the road. Riding on the road with blown shocks is NOT a fun thing to do, so definitely replace the shocks before you start riding on the street.

I'm missing a bit of hardware (nuts, bolts,washers,etc) Where is the best place to get it? I try to buy mostly stainless steel fittings for my wing (Wont rust/corrode) but all the bolts are metric so it is difficult to find stockists in the USA that have a good selection of metric bolts. do NOT buy from Honda, they are very expensive and poor quality. I used Custom Fastners in Texas (When I lived there), hopefully someone can suggest somewhere near to you.

-Ryan


Hi Ryan, welcome to the site, I have tried to give my opinion to your questions above. I hate to be a downer, but you will have quite a lot of initial expense to get the bike back to a good, safe running bike (shocks and fluids are not cheap!!). but you will have a great bike once you are done.

Gary

wing86new1
Posts: 37
Joined: Thu Oct 17, 2013 7:45 am
Location: Notre Dame, Indiana
Motorcycle: 1986 goldwing aspencade sei
and 1978 gl1000

Re: New Member -Need help! I just picked up this 78' beast.

Postby wing86new1 » Wed Nov 13, 2013 4:18 pm

sounds like when I picked up my 78 had been sitting for 20 years, spent tons of money into it to get it "safe" runs great but after it was all done I don't know if it was worth all the trouble here is a list of parts that I had to replace
carbs
pipes
ignition
timing belts
front and rear tire
all new led lights (old ones were missing)
front and rear shocks
brakes
calipers (rebuilt)
fairing (did not like the original one)

now its up for sale since I have purchased a 86 1200 sei aspendcade.

User avatar
carlrf
Posts: 39
Joined: Thu Sep 12, 2013 9:44 am
Location: Kansas City, Missouri
Motorcycle: GL1000 1978

Re: New Member -Need help! I just picked up this 78' beast.

Postby carlrf » Tue Nov 19, 2013 7:01 am

I agree with most of.what has.been said.
You have a prokect but be sure to look at.it as an adventure into motorcycling and good hands on experience. You will know the bike when done!

Put the neutral switch on a back burner. Google it for more info when ready to tackle. I am using black tape on mine as its not worth the trouble to me yet.

Get new tubes when you get tires. Don't try to make them tubeless. You can see my adventures with that in my posts.
Yeah, go to Randacks for tire info and.other good stuff.

Westlake Ace hardware around here has good selection of metric bolts and fasteners.

Having the carbs done is a.big one so glad that is out of the way. And as stated ready, make sure nothing "unclean" gets to them.

I assume you have a."gl1000" eBay search saved in"your favorites" and check it daily? That can be an education in itself. You learn quickly what there is plenty of and what are hard iems to find at.decent prices.

+1 on the Rotella diesel oil.
Zerex Asion Formula coolant at NAPA.




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