GL 1000 1978 Running Hot -- oil an issue


Information and questions on GL1000 Goldwings (1975-1979)
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JorgeTx
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Joined: Wed May 07, 2014 4:11 pm
Location: Mineral Wells, TX
Motorcycle: 1978 Goldwing GL1000

GL 1000 1978 Running Hot -- oil an issue

Postby JorgeTx » Wed May 07, 2014 4:50 pm



Questions, replace coolant or coolant and thermostat, could overfill on oil be the problem?

I recently rode Mineral Wells to Lubbock with no problems, (about 250 miles).
Took a four hour tour the next day to visit where I lived as a kid.
No problems with overheating, ran about 80 - 85 most of the time.

The oil pressure light had been blinking on more often than before during start up and I thought that might have been an indicator the oil was too low, I couldn't see the level through the glass, and just added a couple of quarts to make sure.
I assumed the oil would be black enough to see it in the window, but couldn't.

On the ride back, I did some slow speed touring on the side roads at Crosbyton, and low and behold the bike really got hot.
I was about a mile from a known road side park so, I slowed to about 20 road the shoulder to the roadside park.
The temp dropped down to mid / high normal range and I stopped at the park to eat.
As I resumed the ride, at first, it seemed to be heating up very fast, I thought I might have to ride the rest of the way back at 35mph, but I gradually eased up to 65 or 70 and made my way back home.
I topped off the radiator when I got back, and I've ridden around here for a couple of hours, kicking up to 85 or so without it over heating.

The coolant I had said safe for aluminium engines, but after reading on this site, I purchased some Preston 50/50 silicate etc free.
So, tomorrow I plan on draining the old coolant, flushing with distilled water a couple of times and replacing with the Preston.
My question is, how likely could the thermostat be a problem as well? If it needs to be replaced later, then I'll lose this coolant when I replace the thermostat.
There is no Honda dealer here with a thermostat or I would just buy one, and replace it while I was in there.

I did have the water pump replaced a year or so ago, and I'm guessing they replaced the thermostat then, but I'm not sure.

If that was an over fill on the oil could that have caused overheating?
I will also, drain and replace my oil and oil filter, that way I can make sure I don't have it overfilled.
Hopefully I can see the oil level as it is replaced this time.

BTW love my classic Goldwing, and the Hashbrown omlet at New York Hill Restaurant, in Thurber Texas is another good excuse for a ride from the Metroplex. (The other being Chicken Fried Steak at Mary's Cafe in Strawn, Tx of course.)



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702scottc
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Re: GL 1000 1978 Running Hot -- oil an issue

Postby 702scottc » Wed May 07, 2014 8:46 pm

I would recommend replacing the t-stat when you drain the cooling system. You can order one online and have it in a few days from bike bandit or whomever you like. Be sure and get a new t-stat o-ring as well, they typically dry out. Test the radiator cap as well, if it where my bike I'd replace it as well. If memory serves, the 78's have a mechanical cooling fan so airflow really wouldn't be the problem. Overfilling it with oil will make it leak and smoke typically, if it's overfilled too much you can run the risk of hydro locking the engine. Drain the oil and change the filter just to be safe, holds 3.8 qts.

bustedwing
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Re: GL 1000 1978 Running Hot -- oil an issue

Postby bustedwing » Wed May 07, 2014 9:40 pm

As far as cooling, you can get a t-stat and radiator cap from any auto parts dealer. It may take a little research but they are there. When you said that you added 2 quarts of oil after traveling 250 miles I was surprised. Especially if you have no idea what the oil level was before adding the oil. That is an awful lot of oil for an engine to use/loose in 250 miles. I am not familiar with your bike, but I do believe their is some way of checking the oil level. Adding too much oil can cause several problems, when pistons get too much under them this can cause hydraulic lock. The oil simply has no place to go to give the piston room to move. Since you were moving slow and not overheating, I would start it up, then check the coolant flow through the radiator. A bike of tht age probably has some gunk in there. All the new parts in the world won't fix a plugged radiator.
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JorgeTx
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Location: Mineral Wells, TX
Motorcycle: 1978 Goldwing GL1000

Re:still getting hot after new t-stat and radiator cap

Postby JorgeTx » Mon Jun 16, 2014 8:22 am

Still overheating.
I replaced the thermostat and radiator cap.
It is a real challenge getting the radiator out an in with the Vetter fairing attached.

I looked at the water pump not original no excessive wiggle.

Took the radiator to a shop and he did not thing it was had any blockage.

Flushed with distilled water, added Preston 50/50.

I let it idle in the drive way for several minutes and the electric fan kicked in.

Still got hot about two miles from the house.

What would be my next steps?

I think, the water pump is less than two years old. How will I know if it is working or not?

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702scottc
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Re: GL 1000 1978 Running Hot -- oil an issue

Postby 702scottc » Mon Jun 16, 2014 4:20 pm

You should be able to see water circulate thru the radiator with the engine running and cap off. Might be looking at a set of head gaskets to fix the overheating issue. If its overheating in 2 miles then you likely have an issue of combustion leaking into the cooling system.

bustedwing
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Re: GL 1000 1978 Running Hot -- oil an issue

Postby bustedwing » Mon Jun 16, 2014 8:59 pm

To figure that out do a dry and wet compression test, write down your findings, keeping track of which cylinder has a different reading between dry and wet of more than 15 lbs. A few other things will point to a bad head gasket such as finding a creamy substance on the top of the oil cap, or radiator cap. But remember to do the test with the throttle locked open, as it will change your readings if you don't. I believe this will tell you more about your problems with that engine then anything else so far.
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Grasshutperformance
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Motorcycle: 1977 GL1000

Re: GL 1000 1978 Running Hot -- oil an issue

Postby Grasshutperformance » Tue Jun 17, 2014 11:03 am

JorgeTx
The water pump is a simple impeller, if it is turning, and the housing it is in is not worn out (it won't be), then it is pumping water. If the pump fails it is going to be the seal causing it to leak or the bearings causing it to seize. The first thing I would do is be sure you are over heating. How do you know this? From just the gauge reading? Or does the thing start to steam. If you over heated to the point of steaming, I will cover that in a minute. If it is from the gauge reading, I would check the engine temp with another gauge. Screw an after market sender in place of the OEM, and hook up a gauge, then see what the temps are. Do you over heat sitting still with the fan on? Or is it only while riding. If while riding, is it higher speed, or lower speed or both. Do you have the deflectors on the sides of the radiator? Are they bent? When you look at the radiator, are the fins attached to the tubes well? If they are loose they will not transfer heat and will cause the bike to over heat sitting still or riding. The deflectors being screwed up (bent or missing) will make the bike over heat while riding, worse at higher speeds, (higher defined as over 30mph or so).
Now if you over heated to the point it was visual (steam, etc), I would pressure test the motor. You will need to remove the radiator, and block off the upper and lower radiator hose connections on the motor. For myself, I would make aluminum adapters that bolt in place of the stat housing and lower hose housing. Then you need to pump in shop air, when pressure testing blocks and heads we would go to around 100PSI (we were checking new castings for porosity, you would not need to go that high but I would go well over what the radiator could take, like maybe 50 PSI). Then shut down the air, and see if it holds pressure. If it leaks down, you have a leak somewhere, check your block offs on the stat and lower hose. You can also do a compression test to see if there is low compression from a blown head gasket. The head gasket could possibly have an issue with the water jacket but not the chamber, that is why I would pressure test the engine water jackets, if there is a leak that will 100% find it, and cylinder compression test will only find it if it is a leak into the chamber. Is there water in your oil? IS there anything blocking air flow up front? My GL runs with the temp gauge just touching the the bottom of the "normal" range in cool weather, once it gets warm, it runs just a little into the normal range but still below the middle, and REALLY hot it runs middle or above but still in the normal range. I plan on making a shield to go on the bottom of my fairing to keep the air from getting inside the fairing and blowing up near me, and instead force it to go through the radiator. When it is hot, the engine absolutely runs hotter on the freeway than at lower speeds. Diverting that pressure through the radiator should help. I also have an after market glass fender that is wider than OEM, and of course that screws with air flow.
Tom

ktoll
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Re: GL 1000 1978 Running Hot -- oil an issue

Postby ktoll » Tue Apr 14, 2015 3:17 pm

My gl1000 read hot but wasn,t really.The hot reading was from an elroctronic component under the temp guage.I think it was called a 12volt to 7volt regulator.

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Re: GL 1000 1978 Running Hot -- oil an issue

Postby WingAdmin » Wed Apr 15, 2015 12:38 pm

ktoll wrote:My gl1000 read hot but wasn,t really.The hot reading was from an elroctronic component under the temp guage.I think it was called a 12volt to 7volt regulator.


Correct: 7 Volt Regulator




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