Radiator Leak

[Lastwachter]

When I first got my 1978 Goldwing. I pulled the radiator off to change the timing belts. While I had it off I flushed it out with the hose (I have since heard I should have used distilled water?)I also took off the fan. I spray painted the radiator and fan housing (taping off any moving parts and ports where tubes connected. I also made a point not to paint the fins themselves. I put it all back together and attached all the lines and wires. I filled it up and while it was on the center stand…..and days after the reassembly, it was leaking out of the radiator. It had not been running. Just sitting while I was working on the brakes. I checked the lines and cap and they all seem dry, the only place I am seeing coolant, besides on the ground, is in the base the radiator itself. As if it is leaking out of the fins in the front….Any ideas? Thanks for your help.

Ryan

[SnoBrdr]

When I first got my 1978 Goldwing. I pulled the radiator off to change the timing belts. While I had it off I flushed it out with the hose (I have since heard I should have used distilled water?)I also took off the fan. I spray painted the radiator and fan housing (taping off any moving parts and ports where tubes connected. I also made a point not to paint the fins themselves. I put it all back together and attached all the lines and wires. I filled it up and while it was on the center stand…..and days after the reassembly, it was leaking out of the radiator. It had not been running. Just sitting while I was working on the brakes. I checked the lines and cap and they all seem dry, the only place I am seeing coolant, besides on the ground, is in the base the radiator itself. As if it is leaking out of the fins in the front….Any ideas? Thanks for your help.

Ryan

Well it is 36 years old and you don't know how well it was taken care of by the PO.

I personally have never flushed out my 78 and I'm not about to start now.

Not much you can do. Find a used one but then again you have no idea how good it is.

Visit a local radiator shop and see what they want to recore it or try a sealer but I wouldn't hold out hope of that working.

You sure it's the radiator and not the lower hose? Those can be a issue after pulling them off.

[Lastwachter]

The lower hose is dry and there is a pool of fluid sitting in the bottom lip of the radiator itself.

I have purchased another one off ebay that says it is completely functional…

I will let you know how it turns out. Thanks for the advice!

[Placerville]

As the member above stated, you could have taken yours to a radiator shop for an inspection. First, they would have pressure tested it to determine if it was leaking. If it wasn't, you could have saved yourself the cost of your eBay purchase. If it was leaking, that leak could have been fixed. One very common place for these tanks to leak is at the point where the upper and lower tubes are soldered to the tanks. This joint takes a lot of abuse when hoses are replaced. The metal is thin and they tend to crack at this point. These leaks are an easy fix. In fact, when you receive your replacement tank, you should take it to a shop for cleaning and pressure testing and these joints should be re-soldered as a matter of course. Don't install that replacement until it's been inspected and properly cleaned etc. You have no guarantee that it's any better than your original tank, no matter what the seller is saying.

[Lastwachter]

As the member above stated, you could have taken yours to a radiator shop for an inspection. First, they would have pressure tested it to determine if it was leaking. If it wasn't, you could have saved yourself the cost of your eBay purchase. If it was leaking, that leak could have been fixed. One very common place for these tanks to leak is at the point where the upper and lower tubes are soldered to the tanks. This joint takes a lot of abuse when hoses are replaced. The metal is thin and they tend to crack at this point. These leaks are an easy fix. In fact, when you receive your replacement tank, you should take it to a shop for cleaning and pressure testing and these joints should be re-soldered as a matter of course. Don't install that replacement until it's been inspected and properly cleaned etc. You have no guarantee that it's any better than your original tank, no matter what the seller is saying.

They wanted more to look at it than the cost of the "new" radiator, so...

[SnoBrdr]

As the member above stated, you could have taken yours to a radiator shop for an inspection. First, they would have pressure tested it to determine if it was leaking. If it wasn't, you could have saved yourself the cost of your eBay purchase. If it was leaking, that leak could have been fixed. One very common place for these tanks to leak is at the point where the upper and lower tubes are soldered to the tanks. This joint takes a lot of abuse when hoses are replaced. The metal is thin and they tend to crack at this point. These leaks are an easy fix. In fact, when you receive your replacement tank, you should take it to a shop for cleaning and pressure testing and these joints should be re-soldered as a matter of course. Don't install that replacement until it's been inspected and properly cleaned etc. You have no guarantee that it's any better than your original tank, no matter what the seller is saying.

They wanted more to look at it than the cost of the "new" radiator, so...

Was that just to "look" or "look" and fix?

What did they want to "look"? That one you bought is still over 30 years old.

Hope it works out for you.

[Lastwachter]

To look they wanted $25. To fix they wanted more on top. The one I got was $30 shipped. If it doesn't work, I return it for a full refund. I understand it's as old as the bike, it's the route I went. I'll let you know how it turns out.

[Placerville]

Well, that certainly changes things. When I did my front end, the local shop charged me $36 to pressure test, clean and re-solder the tubes. I was happy to pay that.

[SnoBrdr]

Well, that certainly changes things. When I did my front end, the local shop charged me $36 to pressure test, clean and re-solder the tubes. I was happy to pay that.

That's a real good price.

I would have gone to another shop, we must have 10, at least within 15 miles of me.

But to each their own, hope it works out for him.

[Lastwachter]

It was the only place that came up when I searched radiator repair. Are there any chain shops that do that work that you know of?

[SnoBrdr]

It was the only place that came up when I searched radiator repair. Are there any chain shops that do that work that you know of?

Not aware of any here, these are all local places.

If you have a auto mechanic or know one, I'd ask.

[Lastwachter]

I found someone about 20 minutes away so I took it up there and was just quoted at $68 plus tax...

[SnoBrdr]

I found someone about 20 minutes away so I took it up there and was just quoted at $68 plus tax...

To fix it?

Not a bad price.

[Lastwachter]

Done and done. It is back on the bike and holding strong. I started syncing the carbs today. Need to keep at it tomorrow. Then it will be time to road test! Thanks for the help guys.