Battery problem


Information and questions on GL1000 Goldwings (1975-1979)
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GL1000-1976-SCX-593P
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Joined: Mon Jun 16, 2014 10:02 am
Location: United Kingdom
Motorcycle: 1976 GL1000 Gold Wing
1976 GL1000 Executive (Replica)

Battery problem

Postby GL1000-1976-SCX-593P » Wed Jul 09, 2014 2:12 pm



GL1000 not holding a charge, even though the battery is new and on an optimizer when parked up in the garage, went out for a short run 40/50 miles and bike would not start at a set of lights when it cut out, need to increase the idle slightly to stop the wing cutting out but the battery issue is something I have no idea how to check or solve, The Haynes manual has a section on checking the charging output I guess that is the starting point, has anyone else had this problem??
I forgot to add I did get the bike going again, didn't fancy pushing it 3 miles home, it finally fired after quite a few attempts.
Cheers John



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Placerville
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Motorcycle: 1976 Naked Yellow

Re: Battery problem

Postby Placerville » Thu Jul 10, 2014 1:05 am

John,

Because you said that your battery is new and on a float charger when parked, I'd advise you to determine if your battery is receiving a sufficient charge by the stator. First, remove your left side cover and examine your 8 pin 'stator to rectifier' plug (below) for any signs of overheating. Separate the halves and ensure that the connectors are clean with no signs of corrosion. If this plug looks burnt, or if there's corrosion, you need to replace it. Refer to this thread for additional information on it's replacement and the correct way to do it.

Image

Once you've determined that this plug (that contains your stator wires) is in good condition and can deliver voltage to your battery, you need to test your stator to make sure it delivering the correct amount of voltage. For a good tutorial on how to do that, go here. Also, there are several good threads at GoldWingDocs on this subject. Do a search.
Placerville- 1976 Yellow
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GL1000-1976-SCX-593P
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Motorcycle: 1976 GL1000 Gold Wing
1976 GL1000 Executive (Replica)

Re: Battery problem

Postby GL1000-1976-SCX-593P » Thu Jul 10, 2014 1:36 am

Thank you for your reply I will look into that and let you know how it goes when I have checked it out. :)

I have ordered some of the bits that I didn't already have such as Dielectric Grease, saw one You tube post that said use this stuff sparingly?? Heat shrink cable cover and 16g braided wire. I have got my fingers crossed that the problem is not the Stator as now is time for riding in the UK not taking engines out!!!

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GL1000-1976-SCX-593P
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Motorcycle: 1976 GL1000 Gold Wing
1976 GL1000 Executive (Replica)

Re: Battery problem

Postby GL1000-1976-SCX-593P » Thu Jul 10, 2014 11:17 am

Placerville thanks for the links, I have checked out the three yellow wires as recommended in the link you posted all three checks gave a reading over 60 which I am assuming is ok, The next step is I will connect all 3 wires direct eliminating the 3 gang plug.
Would you also eliminate the bigger plug with the multi-point connections, I can do that also if required, or would you see if the first alteration to the wiring has the desired effect???
Rgds John

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Placerville
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Re: Battery problem

Postby Placerville » Thu Jul 10, 2014 11:43 am

Personally, I don't support altering a vintage motorcycle from it's factory state. If I had your issue (and I have), I'd carefully replace those connectors with OEM style replacements, soldering the pins and using Di-electric grease. But, I fully realize that there are owners that feel differently, especially those who have resto/mods were 'anything goes'. Cutting out the connectors and soldering the wires together would be a very quick and easy way to resolve any suspicion of corrosion and could be done at no expense. Replacing them with OEM style connectors would be time consuming and a bit of an expense. But, your bike would retain its originality. In the end, it's your bike and your choice.

Treat the 8-pin plug the same as your 3-pin. You need to assure yourself at this point that both have clean connections.

Regarding your stator readings, those are very good and that's good news. Clean up your connectors (in whatever way you feel is best) and see if your problem has resolved itself. If not, re-post, and we'll go from there.
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GL1000-1976-SCX-593P
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1976 GL1000 Executive (Replica)

Re: Battery problem

Postby GL1000-1976-SCX-593P » Thu Jul 10, 2014 12:00 pm

Thanks very much, I agree its better to keep the bike as original as possible dont suppose you would know the part numbers for those 2 plugs.
thanks for your quick response
John

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Placerville
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Re: Battery problem

Postby Placerville » Thu Jul 10, 2014 12:32 pm

Honda no longer sells replacements for these plugs. However, you can find anything you need in the way of vintage OEM style plugs at http://www.vintageconnections.com/. Go to 'Order' (on the left) and scroll down.
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GL1000-1976-SCX-593P
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1976 GL1000 Executive (Replica)

Re: Battery problem

Postby GL1000-1976-SCX-593P » Thu Jul 10, 2014 1:08 pm

New terminals on order, got a box of all different one then if I need any more I can do them.

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GL1000-1976-SCX-593P
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Re: Battery problem

Postby GL1000-1976-SCX-593P » Thu Jul 10, 2014 3:43 pm

Thanks a lot for the links very informative, I just have one final question having watched a few You tube vids regarding Dielectric grease were they say to use it sparingly, I note on the video earlier the person slaps plenty into the large connector, is that likely to make the connections worse or better??
I need to learn as much about my wing as I can because good Goldwing Mechanics seem to be a rare thing in the UK.

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virgilmobile
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Re: Battery problem

Postby virgilmobile » Thu Jul 10, 2014 4:31 pm

The grease has only one purpose in life in a electrical connector...To keep moisture from getting in and corroding it...It is not used as a lubricant as nothing moves in there...
If you coat the connections,the assembly of the mating plug will scrape the excess grease from the contact area...if there tight....
If the connection is weak or a bit loose,the grease can leave a insulating film at the contact point making a bad connection....
So if your push on connectors are clean,tight and fit very snug...you can slather it on....
Having just a tiny dab here and there serves no benefit....Either seal the whole thing or leave it exposed....
With the harsh Southern environment I live in(95*..60% and more humidity),I keep all my critical connections perfectly bonded and sealed..Just like the newer car connectors..

Just my rambling...and thoughts...

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Placerville
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Re: Battery problem

Postby Placerville » Thu Jul 10, 2014 4:34 pm

I've seen threads where it's suggested that one fill the female pin connector opening with Di-electric grease and then insert the male pin. They reason that when the two are inserted, the 'metal to metal' contact displaces the grease and sufficient contact is made. The displaced grease fills the inner areas of the connector thus preventing corrosion from entering.

I prefer using the method (mentioned on Mike Nixon's web site) where, after cleaning or replacing the male and female pins, the electrical connector halves are then joined (dry). At this point, the rear of the connectors (where the wires enter) are filled with Di-electric, thus preventing the intrusion of dirt, moisture etc., which leads to corrosion. This method seems more logical to me as it keeps the connection between the pins clean and dry with no foreign matter to contend with. This method is also recommended in a Honda bulletin that addresses the replacement of the 8 pin 'stator to rectifier' connector and the need to solder the pins to the wires.
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GL1000-1976-SCX-593P
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1976 GL1000 Executive (Replica)

Re: Battery problem

Postby GL1000-1976-SCX-593P » Fri Jul 11, 2014 1:49 am

having checked both plugs they both seem to be ok to me however I have ordered a selection of new plugs and I intend to change them and in using new connectors they should provide the best possible joint and as such either one of the methods above should be fine.
Thank you for your help it is much appreciated.
Gradually I am getting to know my GL1000 a lot better than I ever did when I had the first one in 1975/6, mind you that one was new then, sadly I made a major error and traded it in for a CBX1000, an iconic bike I know but not as good to ride as the wing in my Opinion
Regards to all
John

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GL1000-1976-SCX-593P
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1976 GL1000 Executive (Replica)

Re: Battery problem

Postby GL1000-1976-SCX-593P » Fri Jul 11, 2014 11:38 am

To help solve this Battery problem I was thinking to change the Rectifier or Regulator or Both is that worth doing??

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virgilmobile
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Re: Battery problem

Postby virgilmobile » Fri Jul 11, 2014 12:05 pm

I suppose if you have extra cash to spend you could replace the 2 modules with a "new and improved" all in one.Like the ones used on the 1100 or 1200.
My 78 was sold many years ago with OEM parts.They still work fine.
Personally,I'd replace them only if there bad.
Just keep accessories off the bike.extra lights and the such.

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GL1000-1976-SCX-593P
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1976 GL1000 Executive (Replica)

Re: Battery problem

Postby GL1000-1976-SCX-593P » Fri Jul 11, 2014 12:19 pm

Thanks Virgilmobile, The problem is I am getting the output from the stator but on a short run the battery goes flat even though it is less than 4 weeks old, The only other 2 components that could be at fault are the regulator or rectifier and since an all in one is available I thought it may be worth replacing the old ones, then there is not much else to do to sort out the battery issue, that was my thinking anyway.
Cheers John

Ps I suppose I could carry a spare battery and jump leads in my top box!!!

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virgilmobile
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82 GL1100 I
83 GL1100 I
83 GL1100 standard
84 GL 1200 I

Re: Battery problem

Postby virgilmobile » Fri Jul 11, 2014 12:28 pm

Sounds like you got it under control.As long as the stator is confirmed OK,there's just the R-R modules left.
If you confirm either is bad,replace both with a new combined regulator/rectifier module.
Fortunatly they are avaiable.Just be certain its one for a 1100 or 1200.
they make generic replacements that I cannot confirm will work.
Fortunatly honda kept the same color codes so rewiring to fit a 1100 R/R module is pretty straight foreward.

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GL1000-1976-SCX-593P
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1976 GL1000 Executive (Replica)

Re: Battery problem

Postby GL1000-1976-SCX-593P » Fri Jul 11, 2014 12:36 pm

Thanks for that its appreciated.

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Fred Camper
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Re: Battery problem

Postby Fred Camper » Fri Jul 11, 2014 9:34 pm

If you do want to update the rectifier or regulator, search the threads for MOSFET regulators for GL1000. Late model Honda regulators with more efficient MOSFET electronics regulate the power without having to shunt excess voltage to ground. I updated mine several years back with a unit from a CBR600RR and it has higher voltage during idle now.




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