Neutral Switch removal help


Information and questions on GL1000 Goldwings (1975-1979)
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pricey1123
Posts: 52
Joined: Mon Sep 16, 2013 6:11 am
Location: United Kingdom
Motorcycle: 1979 Honda GL1000KZ

Neutral Switch removal help

Postby pricey1123 » Sat Jul 12, 2014 1:55 pm



Hello, I have the dreaded neutral light lit all the time due to the nuetral switch however how in hell do you remove it from the engine? I can't get a spanner or ratchet on it and It will not budge, looks like its been in their for 30+ years. So anyone know how to remove it? And yes I have removed the bolt holding it in place.

Cheers.

PS: engine is out of the frame to gain more access.



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Placerville
Posts: 423
Joined: Tue Mar 09, 2010 12:58 pm
Location: Placerville, CA
Motorcycle: 1976 Naked Yellow

Re: Neutral Switch removal help

Postby Placerville » Sat Jul 12, 2014 2:08 pm

Your neutral switch is frozen in place. Now that you've removed the bolt and plate, do this: Spray the area liberally with any penetrating liquid you prefer (a 50/50 mix of ATF and Acetone is better than anything on the market). The head of the neutral switch has flat sides. Grasp the switch with any appropriate tool and work it back and forth in a clockwise/counter-clockwise manner. When it starts moving, pull it straight out. (It has smooth sides with no threads.) If you want to attempt to rebuild it, go here. Don't forget to install a fresh O ring.

If it's stubborn, continue applying penetrating spray over a few days to see if you can dissolve the bond. Along with this, some moderate tapping with a hammer and large bladed screwdriver may help break the bond. If it still refuses to budge, apply a small flame for a minute or two to the engine casing around the switch not on it. Heat will help break the bond between the switch body and engine casing. (Careful - direct heat on the switch will damage it, making it unsuitable for rebuilding.)



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User avatar
pricey1123
Posts: 52
Joined: Mon Sep 16, 2013 6:11 am
Location: United Kingdom
Motorcycle: 1979 Honda GL1000KZ

Re: Neutral Switch removal help

Postby pricey1123 » Sat Jul 12, 2014 4:16 pm

Hello Placerville, unfortunately it is really really stubborn infact refusing to move, I've lost my patience with it and... well is won't be rebuilt as i think its too far gone with brute force (Don't worry I have a new one ordered and on the way), I still have the neutral switch shell still stuck in the engine and it won't move, I've left it a week soaking in WD40 but still won't budge. Any other ideas?

Cheers.

User avatar
Placerville
Posts: 423
Joined: Tue Mar 09, 2010 12:58 pm
Location: Placerville, CA
Motorcycle: 1976 Naked Yellow

Re: Neutral Switch removal help

Postby Placerville » Sat Jul 12, 2014 4:47 pm

Interesting. So, if I understand what you've written, you've gone so far as to unscrew the center portion of the switch and have pulled it out of the switch body as shown in the second photo above. Correct? If that's the case, you are now free to apply heat directly into the switch body. Apply enough heat and it will expand enough to alter the bond between it and the case. When it cools, it will shrink and the bond may break enough for you to move it. Once it moves, you've got it. If that doesn't work, how about an 'Easy Out' on a T handle? Because you've got a new one on the way, you can now be more aggressive with the hammer blows to break the bond.

Regarding WD-40 - it has little, to no effect as a penetrating agent and is even fairly useless as a lubricant because it attracts dirt. As suggested above, start using ATF and Acetone.

A study done in the April 2007 issue of Machinist's Workshop magazine looked at different penetrating oils to see which one did the best job of freeing a rusted bolt by measuring the pounds of torque required to loosen the bolt once treated. The study was scientifically based and accurate. They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrants with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment.

A summery of the results are as follows:

Penetrating oil.......Average load.......Price per fluid ounce
None...................516 pounds...........$0.0
WD-40.................238 pounds...........$0.25
PB Blaster.............214 pounds...........$0.35
Liquid Wrench.......127 pounds...........$0.21
Kano Kroil............106 pounds...........$0.75
ATF-Acetone mix....53 pounds............$0.10

The ATF-Acetone mix was mixed 1 to 1 ratio


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