'75 gl1000 runs poorly under load and when sitting on idle


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Superinit
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'75 gl1000 runs poorly under load and when sitting on idle

Postby Superinit » Wed Sep 24, 2014 8:33 am



Hey guys,

I have an issue with a gl1000 I'm currently working on. The bike starts right up, but has trouble idling around 1 rpm (backfires here and there or continuously at a steady metronome pace). Sometimes it would make a loud gun shot like backfire then immediately die(1.5rpm), however it stays on when idling at 2rpm and above without backfire/pop. I took it for a test drive around the block as is and found it had barely any power. It would only move on first gear and not go any faster than maybe 25mph. When I shifted into second the rpm was too low and the backfire started to occur. It won't make it up a steep hill. Also, when I give it throttle it would rev up by itself for a while then settle back down even though I let off the throttle long ago.

Now for the history of the bike and what i've done to it. When my buddy bought it we checked compression while the bike was cold. 3 cylinders were just under 160 and one cylinder was 165. Bike could start but not hold idle.

Since the purchase i've done:

-randakks carb overhaul
-adjust floats
-cleared up all the pinholes in the jets and etc (used randakk video how-to)
-vac works properly on air cut off valve. Haven't check intake tubes if they leaked air yet.
-carb dip (found out later that wasn't recommended)
-put in aftermarket needle floats and seat from partsnmore so i have a mix of oem and aftermarket needles installed (found out later that was bad)
-valve stem seal
-valve clearance
-timing belt (positive that cams are spot on)
-timing (I marked the light spot on, on one of the f2 marks. Were they suppose to be spot-on both f2 marks?) f1 is spot-on
-there's been a dyna-s electric ignition already installed from past owner (maybe faulty ignition?) ( ballast bypassed and i assume codensor was deleted)
-installed new green dc1-1 3ohm dyna coils with new copper dw-200 wires. I snipped the ends and screwed on the stock caps ( was that okay?)
-all 4 brand new spark plugs ignite when grounded against intake tube for testing. (they're D8ea something like that)

I'm going to troubleshoot the bike this upcoming saturday but wanted you guy's input in what could be causing these problems. From what i've read around it could possibly be a faulty ignition.

Thank you guys so much in advance!



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Re: '75 gl1000 runs poorly under load and when sitting on id

Postby bustedwing » Wed Sep 24, 2014 9:37 am

First, check your firing order. Or if you have bad plug wires I have seen them cross fire, in other words the spark starts traveling through one wire but crosses to another wire before it gets to the spark plug. Also check your vacuum lines really close, a small crack can change timing or lean out the fuel mixture. Also since you have been doing so much work to the bike, make sure the lines are in the right places. Hope this gives you some ideas, if it still doesn't get back to work come back and we can try again.
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Superinit
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Re: '75 gl1000 runs poorly under load and when sitting on id

Postby Superinit » Wed Sep 24, 2014 11:01 am

@bustedwing,

I will definitely check for those vacuum leaks when I get the chance this weekend. As for firing order, are you referring to the order of spark plug wires from coil to cylinders?

I never knew about crossfire, but I could see that happening if there was an opening along the wires between the two.

I looked up photos to better explain the order of my coils. I may have done it wrong after seeing this photo online.

So here's a pic i found online, and as I compared my wire order, my 2 and 3 doesn't match this pic., they are switched. Also, i'm unsure if the wires i screwed in the bottom(black/white, yellow/stripe?, and blue/stripe?) are correct.  I know enough that they're on the right coil though. They probably matter. I will copy this setup and see how it goes for the bike, the sparkplug wires, and left/right/ power wire.
So here's a pic i found online, and as I compared my wire order, my 2 and 3 doesn't match this pic., they are switched. Also, i'm unsure if the wires i screwed in the bottom(black/white, yellow/stripe?, and blue/stripe?) are correct. I know enough that they're on the right coil though. They probably matter. I will copy this setup and see how it goes for the bike, the sparkplug wires, and left/right/ power wire.


I just didn't understand this diagram. When I did the install I wasn't sure which cylinder goes to which since the inputs are vertical.
I just didn't understand this diagram. When I did the install I wasn't sure which cylinder goes to which since the inputs are vertical.

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Re: '75 gl1000 runs poorly under load and when sitting on id

Postby Superinit » Wed Sep 24, 2014 11:55 am

A member at ngwclub cleared up my sparkplug order problem. According to this diagram, i've incorrectly ordered my wires. I will now copy this diagram and get back with you guys this weekend.


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Re: '75 gl1000 runs poorly under load and when sitting on id

Postby virgilmobile » Wed Sep 24, 2014 3:13 pm

When your sure it's correct...
Fire up the bike...try to keep it at a idle for 6-8 seconds..(don't rev it up)..then shut it down..
Lightly tap each exhaust header...they should be equally warm....
This simple test shows how the engine is running right away and if all 4 are firing at a idle...
I have heard a wing run pretty good on 2 cylinders (mine)...not much power and a bunch of popping of the raw gas in the exhaust..I lost the spark on the rear cylinders....

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Re: '75 gl1000 runs poorly under load and when sitting on id

Postby HawkeyeGL1200 » Wed Sep 24, 2014 6:07 pm

Sounds like it's running out of fuel. The popping, lack of power and other symptoms would make me check fuel pump output and look for fuel line obstructions.
I am wrong as often as I am right concerning what is wrong with someone else' motorcycle without having seen the machine in person. Guessing with limited information, as to the source of the trouble, is sketchy at best.

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Superinit
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Re: '75 gl1000 runs poorly under load and when sitting on id

Postby Superinit » Wed Sep 24, 2014 6:09 pm

virgilmobile wrote:I have heard a wing run pretty good on 2 cylinders (mine)...not much power and a bunch of popping of the raw gas in the exhaust..I lost the spark on the rear cylinders....


I'll report back when I do so. My exhaust is spitting a lot of fuel it seems. Thanks.

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Re: '75 gl1000 runs poorly under load and when sitting on id

Postby Grasshutperformance » Wed Sep 24, 2014 8:15 pm

Well your diagram clearly shows the resistor bypassed. On my dyna, the resistor is not bypassed. That should allow for a much higher voltage spark. Your coils may need full voltage, but I would try putting the resistor back in just for the heck of it. Won't hurt anything. When listening to your problem, I was thinking timing belts were on wrong, but your compression says other wise. I got a bike that had the belt off one tooth, I think retarded, cant remember, and the compression was 140, fixed the belt and it was 165. I would like to know what the plugs look like. May not be able to read them just because of all the idle time. Your wires run to the coils are important, make sure you do not have the polarity reversed. REally hard to say without having hands on the bike. All I can suggest is going over everything and making sure, check timing, 1&2 and 3&4 are adjusted independently. This is a wasted spark system, so if you lose one cylinder, (due to spark issue) you lose the other. I had a plug once where the porcelain loosened up from the steel body. It was on my 750. The bike would run fine, then start to loose power, dump fuel, back fire, etc, that was when the porcelain came loose, then it would rattle around and get tight all on its own and the bike would run great! I did not fine it till trying to read the plugs and felt it move in my hand! So maybe throw some plugs at it just for kicks. Other than that, go through everything you did and check, maybe even have different eyes check your work. As you eliminate things, there will be less to look at.
Tom

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Re: '75 gl1000 runs poorly under load and when sitting on id

Postby Superinit » Tue Sep 30, 2014 9:19 am

@grasshutperformance,

You're right, but dyna doesn't recommend it and randakk sided with dyna, and most importantly I'm lazy to find and install the oem ballast. :D I would assume it's the least of my worries now that I got the bike running with power now. Thanks @grasshutperformance
Here’s where the contradictory advice shows up…
In this combination, Dyna recommends NO BALLAST.However, Accel recommends that the OEM ballast be retained.
I have generally sided with Dyna on this point. Modern high performance coils are designed to handle nominal 12V battery voltage (and cruise voltage of around 14.5V) without issue, so I think Accel’s advice is overly conservative. There’s no problem if you follow Accel’s advice and retain the OEM ballast, but you will give back some of the improved ignition performance you’ve paid for.
On my bike RC003, I have Dyna-S ignition + Accel coils and wires.
A compromise for those inclined to follow Accel’s advice might be to consider running an automobile replacement ballast with less resistance than the OEM 3.0 ohm unit. Auto replacement ballasts are available in a variety of values ranging from 0.85 ohms to 2.0 ohms.
Since there is a slight chance that Accel might know something about their coils that I don’t, I’ve decided to add a 1.60 ohm ballast to my rig just to be safe. I’m currently running a NAPA #ICR37 rated at 1.60 ohms
Here’s some commonly available automobile ballasts available from NAPA:
•#ICR23 – 1.20 ohms
•#ICR11 – 1.35 ohms
•#ICR34 – 1.40 ohms
•#ICR37 – 1.60 ohms
•#ICR35 – 1.80 ohms
•#ICR13 – 1.82 ohms
Finally, if you’ve upgraded to an electronic ignition (like Dyna-S) AND have aftermarket coils like Accel or Dyna – the spark plug gap should be increased to .035″ to take full advantage of the ignition improvements you’ve invested in.


I will also increase my spark plug gap as well!

...check timing, 1&2 and 3&4 are adjusted independently.

I followed these instructions: http://www.ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=22&t=5720
and didn't notice anything about adjusting 1&2 then 3&4 not unless if that's what the f2 and f1 means. I have the dyna-s electronic ignition along with the dyna coils (dc1-1). Could wrong timing cause constant popping? It no longer makes gun-shot backfire sounds at least!

Your wires run to the coils are important, make sure you do not have the polarity reversed.

According to dyna, there is no polarity: https://www.zodiac.nl/instructions/232288.pdf
4) Attach the primary wires to the DYNA COILS using the 10-32 x 5/16 pan head screws provided. Either wire can
be mounted on either terminal of the dual output coils as they have no polarity.
- dyna s coil instruction manual

Update:

Good news! The bike now has power after plugging in the spark plug wires in correct order. I rode the bike to the gas station last night to give it a full tank.

Now moving on to my other problems to be solved. The bike is probably running lean because it pops constantly and after a short ride it just smells like it's overheating. I played with the idle mixture screw with 3 turns out to temporarily cure it. No luck. I suspect the intake tubes are leaking, so I'll tackle that today. If you guys have any other suggestions why, please let me know! Also, the temperature gauge has been deleted, but I may have to install it temporarily to make sure everything is in working order. I temporarily have distilled water in the radiator. I want to fix the pops before I move to check and see if the thermometer gauge isn't working.

-Stock exhaust is reinstalled
-floats have been adjusted to 21.0 mm using randakks measuring tool that he had plasma cut. (Carbs were standing on side during adjustment, so floats lightly touched the nipple of the needle.)
-I do still have aftermarket and oem float needles. I will try to revive the oem float needles via propane gas burner. (Boiling didn't work.)


One more problem that I ran into is that there is a wire next to the battery that gets so hot, it burns the battery case cover. I noticed it while timing the engine and I did leave the ignition on for a good while. The previous owner set the radiator fan to run with ignition on as well, so it's always running even before the engine is warmed up. Could that cause it?
Here's the wire that gets too hot.
Here's the wire that gets too hot.


And, my turn signals don't work.... buzzer doesn't sound. When operating it, all the turn signals just light up. Maybe bad relay? I have aftermarket bulb kinds from ebay. I deleted a lot of the old wiring that were hooked up to the fairings and windjammer that I've removed.

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Re: '75 gl1000 runs poorly under load and when sitting on id

Postby Grasshutperformance » Tue Sep 30, 2014 10:46 am

Lots to cover will cover a little here. First, thanks for the info on Dyna. My bike came with it on, so I had no info, someone else installed it and the bike runs so figured all is well. I did read the info on Dyna and the coils are what determines ballast or not, "Generally, a ballast resistor should not be used with DYNA COILS
on electronic ignitions." I know I do have after market coils on my bike, just not sure what they are, will have to check. Also, a thank you on the no polarity on the dual secondary coils. The Dyna info does tell you that on a single secondary coil polarity does matter, but not on the dual. I am a car guy, and remember the old coils with + and - primary, and when cars went to dual secondary outputs (wasted spark DIS) there is a single connector and no markings at all, so you just remember the old way, and "assume" (bad thing to do by my own admission!) that things are the same!
Now, to your lean issue, mixture screw will not help or hurt that at all except at idle and just off idle. You could pull the screws out on 2 carbs and crank them all the way in on the other 2 carbs and cruising down the road you would never know, till you hit a stop sign, then you would know!
What do the plugs say? Warm up the bike, go to a spot where you can make a good long hard pull, maybe 1/8 mile, pull your plugs, put in fresh ones, make a full acceleration hard pull, then at the top end, pull in the clutch, hit the kill switch, and get off the gas all at the same time, and stop the bike and pull the plugs keeping them in order. Read the plugs, this will tell you what is going on.
For sure connect your temp gauge that is VERY important. My bike has a 185 stat in it, and in the warm weather even with the fan on runs hotter than 185, no idea how much, Stillwell within Honda's operating range, but hotter than 185. On my gauge 185 is just at the very start of the operating range on the gauge.
And yes the F1 and F2 are for timing the 1 2 cylinders and the 3 4 cylinders. More than likely your Dyna is REALLY close to being right straight from the box. Randakk has a timing wheel you can put on your cam to time with a light. I think that is WAY better than the little window thing that Honda makes to time with a light on the crank, the oil makes it really hard to see, so the Randakk unit would be the way to go to get things as right as is humanly possible.
Good luck and glad it is running now, but you really need to monitor that temp.
Oh, your wire that heats up, it is supposed to have a 30a fuse and should be #10 wire.
Tom

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Re: '75 gl1000 runs poorly under load and when sitting on id

Postby bustedwing » Wed Oct 01, 2014 9:04 am

Now that you went thru all of that and finally got your bike in firing order, I think the reason your turn signals are not working is because the flasher is worn out. As long as both lights work, the flasher is the only part that turns it off and on.
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Re: '75 gl1000 runs poorly under load and when sitting on id

Postby Fred Camper » Wed Oct 01, 2014 10:16 am

Just love it when the plan comes together. Nicely documented.

Got to be a bad connection or internally corroded wire to cause that heat. I would put a second wire in parallel and see if that solves it before cutting up the harness.

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Re: '75 gl1000 runs poorly under load and when sitting on id

Postby Grasshutperformance » Wed Oct 01, 2014 11:08 am

Doesn't Honda use diodes in the turn signal circuit? When he said "Both" lighting up, I think he may have meant both left and right
Tom

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Re: '75 gl1000 runs poorly under load and when sitting on id

Postby Superinit » Sat Oct 04, 2014 1:10 pm

Grasshutperformance wrote:Oh, your wire that heats up, it is supposed to have a 30a fuse and should be #10 wire.
Tom


I'll check to see if I have the correct size and fuse. As for the those methods to finding which cylinder is burning lean by checking the plugs, I'll give it a try if my upcoming remedy fails.

I sprayed throttle body/air intake cleaner around the carb boots with the bike running, and sure enough, the idle raised indicating a leak. The boots are hard and un-pliable when inspected. I've been reading online about boiling the boots in wintergreen oil and water, so I'll be doing that first thing Monday. I'll let you guys know how it goes.

bustedwing wrote:... I think the reason your turn signals are not working is because the flasher is worn out. As long as both lights work, the flasher is the only part that turns it off and on.


That's what I suspect too. Yes, all lights work. Maybe if I put my autozone flasher relay from the gl1100 to this gl1000 I could then see that may be the problem. The only thing is that the gl1000 seems to be 2 prong whereas my gl1100's flasher relay is 3 prong. I'm sure it's still interchangeable but I'll just do more reading on that. Also, the dyna-s electric ignition taps into the flasher relay as well, so I'll just need to understand it all first I guess.

What's also weird is that my flasher relay looks just like the main fuse that's next to my battery. Either that or I'm looking at the wrong thing. dyna-s electric ignition instructions says to tap into the flasher relay, so I followed that wire and it lead me to it.

Thanks guys. -jj

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Re: '75 gl1000 runs poorly under load and when sitting on id

Postby bustedwing » Sat Oct 04, 2014 3:52 pm

No, a three prong flasher will not work in place of a two prong or vice versa. They are made to work in different ways. Sorry, you will have to splurge and buy one. But you can get a cheap one for about$6 and once you are sure that you have everything fixed buy a good one for about$20. Especially if you are planning to pull a trailer, it puts more load on the flasher and you will have trouble again. Good luck.
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Re: '75 gl1000 runs poorly under load and when sitting on id

Postby WingAdmin » Mon Oct 06, 2014 1:53 pm

bustedwing wrote:No, a three prong flasher will not work in place of a two prong or vice versa. They are made to work in different ways. Sorry, you will have to splurge and buy one. But you can get a cheap one for about$6 and once you are sure that you have everything fixed buy a good one for about$20. Especially if you are planning to pull a trailer, it puts more load on the flasher and you will have trouble again. Good luck.


Not true. A three prong flasher just has a ground lead. You can connect the third lead to ground and it will work normally.

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Re: '75 gl1000 runs poorly under load and when sitting on id

Postby bustedwing » Mon Oct 06, 2014 2:31 pm

You know, most people don't want to have to butcher the wiring harness. I'm talking about being able to just plug in the flasher with out other mods, sorry that I didn't specify that.
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Re: '75 gl1000 runs poorly under load and when sitting on id

Postby Superinit » Tue Oct 07, 2014 6:41 pm

Appreciate it guys!

I installed the LL552 relay which I believe I saw the brand STANT on it. The bike lights up like hazards where both left and right turn signals blink at the same time. With the horn buzzer connected it lags with a buzz before it flashes. When off it blinks normally. Either way it lights like hazards.

I did fix the lean popping noise before it unexpectedly went bad back to popping. So here's the story:

I boiled the the carb intake runner boots for a good half hour with 2oz of wintergreen oil. It work wonders as the rubber was no longer rock solid and much pliable, it gave a nice seal. Hooked it up to the bike and no more popping on idle and acceleration. It also cured the bike from overheating. However, it would backfire once occasionally right before I shift up/cut the the acceleration abruptly, but it was definitely manageable to ride around in. I double checked if carb sync was good and it is. I kept riding it around like that and temporarily used the turn signals as hazards as my buddy practiced riding on it around the neighborhood. Then suddenly all kinds of popping occurred followed by the bike dying. When trying to start it was too weak to turn, but lights lit strong. I charged the bike overnight with battery tender 'till this morning and cranked the bike. The bike started fine, but there was a new problem I'm faced with now. The left side of the engine, when touching the intake manifold, get's icy cold and fuel dumps out from the middle of the left tailpipe. sigh. I suppose that explains all the popping that's been happening from right before it died last night. I also believe my charging components are malfunctioning too.

Recap:
-turn signals light like hazards
-bike probably isn't recharging battery while on
-left side (cyl. 2 & 4) are probably not combusting (unburnt fuel dumping from left tailpipe and intake manifolds are freezing cold to touch)

I have yet to change/check the 30amp main fuse. Possible cause? And I never followed up on that wire that was getting way too hot.

This is the new relay I installed
This is the new relay I installed


Just throwing in weird things that the p.o. did.  Maybe you guys can identify if it's a causing problem or not.  Here the green/yellow wire has been pulled out from its unit and hooked to an unknown yellow wire with a green sleeve.  When disconnected the brake lights doesn't illuminate when depressed or none at all.  I would have to check again, but it did effect the taillight so I left it be.
Just throwing in weird things that the p.o. did. Maybe you guys can identify if it's a causing problem or not. Here the green/yellow wire has been pulled out from its unit and hooked to an unknown yellow wire with a green sleeve. When disconnected the brake lights doesn't illuminate when depressed or none at all. I would have to check again, but it did effect the taillight so I left it be.




I would rather just get a new untouched harness then deal with all this, but I gotta work with what I have...

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Re: '75 gl1000 runs poorly under load and when sitting on id

Postby Grasshutperformance » Tue Oct 07, 2014 10:13 pm

Lots to address, will address just one point here. You think the battery is not charging. You said the bike died and was too weak to crank, but the lights were good. I am assuming this was right when it died, and it was warmed up fully. If the lights are strong, the battery should be charged. I would question if the brushes in the starter are going. My 1200 cranked, when warm, like it had way too much timing. r,.......r,.......r,.......rrrrrrr start. I checked the timing and it was fine, turned out it was the brushes in the starter. Your issue sounds like it could be the same thing, judging only from my assumptions from your description.
It also sounds like you need to get Randakk's carb kit.
Tom

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Re: '75 gl1000 runs poorly under load and when sitting on id

Postby Superinit » Wed Oct 08, 2014 12:12 am

@grasshutperformance

I installed randakk's carb kit last month while watching his tutorial video, so all the holes are free from gunk. Replaced float needles and seats with functioning ones, set floats, and vacuum checked the air cut-off valve. The starter does at times sound like it doesn't catch and makes a high pitch rattling noise then when pressed again it starts normally. I might have to check if I'm even getting spark on the left side of the engine or if my timing is off because there is no combustion going on it seems. I still don't quite understand the timing method and lining it up on the f2. There's two f2's and when I line it on one f2 line, the other f2 goes out of sync. I don't know if that's just me.

I'll give the battery a full charge and see if I run into the problem of it dying again. The bike had a weak and slow crank and it was fully warmed up.

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Re: '75 gl1000 runs poorly under load and when sitting on id

Postby Grasshutperformance » Wed Oct 08, 2014 8:00 pm

Cylinders 1 and 2 are timed the same, and cylinders 3 and 4 are timed the same. so if you have a problem with cylinders 1 and 3 or 2 and 4, it is not from timing. the F 1 mark is for 1 and 2, the F2 mark is for 3 and 4. Go ahead and time 1 and 2, those are the points that are most outboard. After that is timed, do the same thing with 3 and 4 using F2. Probably the best thing to do is to use Randakk's degree wheel on the cam on the left bank (2 & 4). that way you can easily use a timing light and will know you have the timing nailed.
If you feel you have no combustion going on in 2 and 4, try this, pull the plugs, (all 4), and put the plugs into the boots with jumper wires going from each plug body to ground, (I used to have plugs that I made with an alligator clip on them), then crank the motor over and check for spark at each plug.
If you have spark, then all you need is fuel and air in the right mix, and compression and you WILL have fire, (assuming the spark is at the right time.
Those carbs can be real fussy, very easy to make a mistake. So don't discount that something may be wrong in there. And don't feel bad if there is, this is not how you earn your living and I will bet there are guys who do earn their living this way who have screwed up carbs!
Tom

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Re: '75 gl1000 runs poorly under load and when sitting on id

Postby Superinit » Thu Oct 09, 2014 4:54 pm

@grasshutperformance

I appreciate your help. I started the the bike again and let it run for a bit and the popping seemed to go away completely. I then figured out that the throttle screw that adjusts the idle has a certain sweet spot that I found. If screwed in too much the idle gets stuck high after giving the throttle a twist. If screwed out too much the bike just idles too low then dies. The bike is now running smoothly without overheating!

Now to figure out how to fix these turn signals....

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Re: '75 gl1000 runs poorly under load and when sitting on id

Postby Grasshutperformance » Fri Oct 10, 2014 10:30 am

Great! Glad to hear it is running well. Really check the sync of your carbs, makes a HUGE difference at idle. The more you open the throttle the less difference out of sync makes, but at idle, yeah, it can cause one hole to drag the others down, or one that pulls the others up. Right now I am getting ready to hit the road on mine, 51 here in Detroit, plenty warm enough for a ride!
Tom

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Re: '75 gl1000 runs poorly under load and when sitting on id

Postby Superinit » Thu Oct 16, 2014 11:34 pm

@grasshutperformance,
51!? That's pretty cold to me but with the right gear I'm sure it's manageable.

Anyways, I appreciate everyone's help here on goldwingdocs! I finally got the turn signals figured out. I needed to insert a diode to each left and right wire leading up to my aftermarket speedometer with one lamp turn signal indicator. The bike is now ready to be inspected!

Grasshutperformance
Posts: 42
Joined: Mon Jun 16, 2014 1:00 pm
Location: Detroit MI.
Motorcycle: 1977 GL1000

Re: '75 gl1000 runs poorly under load and when sitting on id

Postby Grasshutperformance » Thu Oct 16, 2014 11:51 pm

Superinit wrote:@grasshutperformance,
51!? That's pretty cold to me but with the right gear I'm sure it's manageable.

Anyways, I appreciate everyone's help here on goldwingdocs! I finally got the turn signals figured out. I needed to insert a diode to each left and right wire leading up to my aftermarket speedometer with one lamp turn signal indicator. The bike is now ready to be inspected!


Ha ha! I ride year round! You will see me on the freeway doing 75 when it is 28 degrees out! If there is no snow or ice on the roads, and not salty, I am riding. I ride year round. Last year was the first year I did not ride in the winter. The snow came, and then came some more, and then more and just never went away! I do have snowmobile mittens to keep my hands warm, and it does have full Vetter gear, so I have the fairing and all to help keep the wind of me, but I RIDE baby! LOL!
Good luck with your inspection!
Tom




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