1975 GL1000 ( Ballast Resistor ) Issue!


Information and questions on GL1000 Goldwings (1975-1979)
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2speed
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1975 GL1000 ( Ballast Resistor ) Issue!

Postby 2speed » Mon Aug 24, 2015 1:20 pm



Hello, I have a Low-Voltage Problem at the Points...only getting 4.5 volts! I can unplug the right or left side, and get 12.8 Battery voltage. Plug it back in, and it drops back to 4.5 volts at both points. Performed the same Test with the Condensers...No-Change!
Trace down all wiring...Good!
Checked Voltage at Ballast, Good Voltage going in...12.8, coming out to Ign. Coils...5.6 Volts! Ballast is HOT! at Touch.
Unplugged Ballast, and install a Test Jumper...Now Have 11.3 Volts at Both Sets of Points. and the Jumper stays Cold...Ummmm???

What is the Purpose of the Ballast Resistor? ( Can it be Removed? ) I believe it just controls Voltage to the Coils.
Maybe I need to Up-Grade to a New Set Of Coils? ...They are 40 years Old!!

It Should have at-least 12.0 volts at the Points at all times, if the Battery is fully charged...Correct?

Engine does run, with weak 4.5 volts at the points, but...the spark plugs turn Black...Sign Of Weak Ignition System!!

Any One ever run across this type of an Issue?



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virgilmobile
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Re: 1975 GL1000 ( Ballast Resistor ) Issue!

Postby virgilmobile » Mon Aug 24, 2015 1:40 pm

All is normal...If you open the contacts on both points then there would be the 12 volts your looking for...
The ballast resistor..It's purpose is to reduce the operating voltage to the coils to factory specs...The reason is the nature of the point system..It's assumed that when cranking the bike,there's not a lot of power left to operate the ignition..So what was done,is to use a ignition system designed to operate on (near) 6 volts and during cranking simply bypass the ballast resistor to get maximum power to the ignition and a good hot spark...As soon as you release the button,the resistor is put back inline to run the ignition on 12 volts...
If you remove and bypass the ballast,the 6 volt ignition system will be shortly cooked by operating it at 12 volts....
The point system is usually dependable if the battery is good...I just prefer electronic ignition..
If you stick with points..get familiar with the advanced method of setting the gap...It's referred to as "split the difference"..it does make a noticeable change in performance.

2speed
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Re: 1975 GL1000 ( Ballast Resistor ) Issue!

Postby 2speed » Tue Aug 25, 2015 11:45 am

Virgil...Well, Thanks!
That clears up just what I was wondering...Hold both points open, and Whoopie!! 12volts is Appear!! :D
I came across this issue when I was checking & setting the timing. ( Static Style ) I was using a 12volt Bulb at each set of points, performing the Static Timing, and Noticed the Bulb was very weak. that's when I checked the voltage with my DMM, and found low voltage! and said...WTF! :shock: Lol :lol:

Here is another Issue, the engine runs decent! I don't mind the Point System...But, I feel it could Run a lot Better! So, I pulled each spark plug and they show a Little Black-Soot!
That's a Sign of a Weak Ignition or Timing...or Incorrect spark Plugs?...Possible Carb Fuel & Air Mixture...That's when I Corrected the Timing. It was way off the mark!... I haven't Run or drove the Bike Since I corrected the Timing, to see if that corrected the Spark Plug Issue.

I'm running...NGK D-8EA Plugs, I feel there to Cold and should go Hotter. Like NGK D-6EA Plugs.

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virgilmobile
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Re: 1975 GL1000 ( Ballast Resistor ) Issue!

Postby virgilmobile » Tue Aug 25, 2015 12:38 pm

Stick with the OEM plug.Hotter will not magically fix it if there's other problems.One thing at a time.
Compression,ignition timing and fuel mixture.

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Re: 1975 GL1000 ( Ballast Resistor ) Issue!

Postby 2speed » Tue Aug 25, 2015 2:28 pm

LMAO :lol: That is correct! Its just a Play Toy! I totally rebuilt the engine over the winter time, now its down to fine tuneing! It was a Barn Find, that sat for over 26 years. Had a lot of Cobbling I had to remove, Wireing was Hacked & Wacked. That's why I asked about the Ballast Resistor. Goofy Book I Have don't really explain much...But, it finally Kick Starts real easy...
00K0K_6cwZiKgw1FZ_600x450.jpg

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Re: 1975 GL1000 ( Ballast Resistor ) Issue!

Postby 2speed » Tue Aug 25, 2015 2:34 pm

Here's a Few Pic's....WarHorse!!
Attachments
Right side.
Right side.
left side.
left side.

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virgilmobile
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Re: 1975 GL1000 ( Ballast Resistor ) Issue!

Postby virgilmobile » Tue Aug 25, 2015 2:35 pm

Win the wing's points,there's a final trick.After they have been set to perfect static timing marks...use a feeler gauge on each when there widest open.Measure the gap of each one.
Usually you will find a noticible difference.
Something like 0.015 and 0.019 .
This will cause a dwell angle difference in the saturation of the coils.You really want them as equal as possible.This is where split the difference comes in.
Mearure both and determine a happy middle.
In my example,that would be 0.017.
Regap both points to this and move the baseplate till static fires on the mark.You will find that both points now fire on there mark AND have the same end gap.

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spiralout
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Re: 1975 GL1000 ( Ballast Resistor ) Issue!

Postby spiralout » Tue Aug 25, 2015 6:15 pm

2speed wrote:Virgil...Well, Thanks!
That clears up just what I was wondering...Hold both points open, and Whoopie!! 12volts is Appear!! :D
I came across this issue when I was checking & setting the timing. ( Static Style ) I was using a 12volt Bulb at each set of points, performing the Static Timing, and Noticed the Bulb was very weak.

And that is why I tear a piece off the cover of my pack of rolling papers and put it in between the opposite points of the ones I'm setting :D :D
I was following this thread from the start and virgilmobile gave you some great advice/explanations. Good job, virgil :!:




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