GL1000 Static Timing - Beginner Needs Help!


Information and questions on GL1000 Goldwings (1975-1979)
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finalcut9
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GL1000 Static Timing - Beginner Needs Help!

Postby finalcut9 » Mon Sep 28, 2015 4:56 pm



I'm struggling trying to understand the procedure to set static timing on my 75 GL1000. I think I've read everything that is available online including Randakk's split timing article.

I am using a test light connected in series. My contact point leads are disconnected with one wire of my test light on the battery positive terminal and the other an alligator clip connected to the point spring that I am checking. I also put a piece of paper between the points that I am not testing.

Randakk says that the F and T lines are around 1/2" apart and that 1/2" represents 5 degrees of rotation. However, mine are around 5/16" apart. Why? Are some GL1000's different than others? For discussion sake, I am going to assume that my lines represent 5 degrees of rotation.

I will call the F and T marks at "1" F1 and T1 and the ones at "2" F2 and T2.

First I set the point gaps to .40mm at the high points on the cam lobe.

Then starting with the left points, I rotate the engine until the flywheel is just before F1 at TDC. The test light is on. The light goes off right when I'm on F1. The intake valve starts to close so I know I'm at TDC. Then the light goes on around 10 degrees before F2. Then off 2 degrees after F1. Then goes on 15-20 degrees before F2. Should I rotate the main base plate to get the light to go on just before F1 at TDC so it goes off just after F1 when rotated 360 degrees? Is this what is meant by splitting the difference?

Then I move the alligator clip to the right points spring, put the piece of paper in the left points and rotate the engine until F1 is at TDC. The light is off. At T1 the light goes on. Then 5 degrees before F2 it goes off. Then 2 degrees after T1 it goes on. Then 6-8 degrees before F2 it goes off. How should I move the points sub plate? Should I be trying to get the light to go off right at F2 for both cylinders when adjusting the right points?

This is the first time I've done static timing and most of the GL1000 advice I've read is for someone that has actually done static timing before. I'm probably overthinking this and I'd appreciate any more detailed information that might help me. I'm sure at some point I'll get it. I'm just not there yet. Thanks in advance.



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Re: GL1000 Static Timing - Beginner Needs Help!

Postby virgilmobile » Mon Sep 28, 2015 6:57 pm

Set the first point gap.Static time it by moving the baseplate.
Adjust the gap on the other set till it static times correct.
Now is the split the difference ....
measure both point gaps.(max lobe)..you will find that they are not equal.
one may be at 40mm and the other at 48mm.If you pick(split) the difference..eg 44mm and reset the first one to this...reset the base plate for proper timing...adjust the other points for static timing...
you will find that not only both are properly timed,they will both have the same gap and dwell angle...

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Re: GL1000 Static Timing - Beginner Needs Help!

Postby Old Fogey » Mon Sep 28, 2015 7:19 pm

finalcut9 wrote:I'm struggling trying to understand the procedure to set static timing on my 75 GL1000. I think I've read everything that is available online including Randakk's split timing article.

I am using a test light connected in series. My contact point leads are disconnected with one wire of my test light on the battery positive terminal and the other an alligator clip connected to the point spring that I am checking. I also put a piece of paper between the points that I am not testing.

Randakk says that the F and T lines are around 1/2" apart and that 1/2" represents 5 degrees of rotation. However, mine are around 5/16" apart. Why? Are some GL1000's different than others? For discussion sake, I am going to assume that my lines represent 5 degrees of rotation.
Yes, the early 75-77and later 78-79 GL1000s have different timing marks. Yours should be 5 degrees, the late ones are 10.

I will call the F and T marks at "1" F1 and T1 and the ones at "2" F2 and T2. The T marks should already be marked 1 and 2[/color]

First I set the point gaps to .40mm at the high points on the cam lobe.

Then starting with the left points, I rotate the engine until the flywheel is just before F1 at TDC. The test light is on. The light goes off right when I'm on F1. The intake valve starts to close so I know I'm at TDC.

You are 180 degrees out on the camshaft, 360 on the crank. The plug fires on the compression stroke. Both valves should already be fully closed. Or are you watching the valves on #2?


Then the light goes on around 10 degrees before F2. You need to open the points gap up so that the light doesn't come on until after the F2 mark. You will need to re-time it afterwards.


Then off 2 degrees after F1. Then goes on 15-20 degrees before F2. See above. Opening up the points will fix that
Should I rotate the main base plate to get the light to go on just before F1 at TDC so it goes off just after F1 when rotated 360 degrees? Is this what is meant by splitting the difference?
Yes, but If you only have 2 degrees of a difference at F1 then you needn't do anything about splitting the timing.

Then I move the alligator clip to the right points spring, put the piece of paper in the left points and rotate the engine until F1 is at TDC. The light is off. At T1 the light goes on. Then 5 degrees before F2 it goes off. Then 2 degrees after T1 it goes on. Then 6-8 degrees before F2 it goes off. How should I move the points sub plate? Should I be trying to get the light to go off right at F2 for both cylinders when adjusting the right points?
Recheck this after you have done the first side and see where you are at.

This is the first time I've done static timing and most of the GL1000 advice I've read is for someone that has actually done static timing before. I'm probably overthinking this and I'd appreciate any more detailed information that might help me. I'm sure at some point I'll get it. I'm just not there yet. Thanks in advance.
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Re: GL1000 Static Timing - Beginner Needs Help!

Postby finalcut9 » Mon Sep 28, 2015 7:53 pm

Thanks to both of you for your replies. I will try again soon and let you know how it goes.

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Re: GL1000 Static Timing - Beginner Needs Help!

Postby spiralout » Mon Sep 28, 2015 11:28 pm

virgilmobile wrote:Now is the split the difference ....
measure both point gaps.(max lobe)..you will find that they are not equal.
one may be at 40mm and the other at 48mm.If you pick(split) the difference..eg 44mm and reset the first one to this...

First I've ever heard of splitting the difference in the points gap. I've always been under the impression that was what you do when you have a 1/2 or a 3/4 that have a variation at their firing points on the flywheel so that you don't have one firing way to early. Hmmm...

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Re: GL1000 Static Timing - Beginner Needs Help!

Postby Old Fogey » Tue Sep 29, 2015 4:39 am

spiralout wrote:
virgilmobile wrote:Now is the split the difference ....
measure both point gaps.(max lobe)..you will find that they are not equal.
one may be at 40mm and the other at 48mm.If you pick(split) the difference..eg 44mm and reset the first one to this...

First I've ever heard of splitting the difference in the points gap. I've always been under the impression that was what you do when you have a 1/2 or a 3/4 that have a variation at their firing points on the flywheel so that you don't have one firing way to early. Hmmm...


I admit to not reading the first post properly. Like you, I'm sorry but that one doesn't make a lot of sense to me.
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Re: GL1000 Static Timing - Beginner Needs Help!

Postby virgilmobile » Tue Sep 29, 2015 7:01 am

The idea is to have the points open at the correct timing mark for each set AND have the same gap when fully open.
Having the same gap means that each side will have the same ammount of time to spark.
Remember that timing of the first points is done by moving the base plate and timing of the other is by adjusting the point gap.You just want both gaps to end up the same ammount.Its called the dwell angle or saturation time.

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Re: GL1000 Static Timing - Beginner Needs Help!

Postby Old Fogey » Tue Sep 29, 2015 7:12 am

I completely understand what you are trying to do and the reasons for it, but with the wandering points cam that is probably not possible. Although I admit to not having tried it that way.
I have often thought that a roller bearing at the points end of the cam would be a good idea. Not sure if there's enough meat in the cam carrier to try it.
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Re: GL1000 Static Timing - Beginner Needs Help!

Postby virgilmobile » Tue Sep 29, 2015 10:25 am

Another thing.when using your test light hooked up as you describe,the light should go off when that cylinder hits the "F" mark.
This is when the points open.
Points open to create the spark..not when they close.

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Re: GL1000 Static Timing - Beginner Needs Help!

Postby virgilmobile » Tue Sep 29, 2015 10:30 am

The duration between open and closed is the dwell angle.the ammount of time the that needs to be equal for both.

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Re: GL1000 Static Timing - Beginner Needs Help!

Postby finalcut9 » Tue Sep 29, 2015 11:31 am

It's becoming a little clearer. How is this:

1. Set the left point gap when on a high spot of the cam lobe.
2. Adjust the base plate to fire at F1 or slightly before F1 for #1 and then slightly after F1 for #2.
3. Recheck and adjust the left point gap so that the gap is equal for both cam lobe high spots.
4. Set the right point gap when on a high spot of the cam lobe.
5. Adjust the sub plate to fire exactly at F2 for both #3 and #4.
6. Recheck and adjust the right point gap so the gap is equal for both cam lobe high spots.

Am I getting closer?

Read more: viewtopic.php?t=30112#ixzz3n96pbxLq

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Re: GL1000 Static Timing - Beginner Needs Help!

Postby Old Fogey » Tue Sep 29, 2015 12:03 pm

finalcut9 wrote:It's becoming a little clearer. How is this:

1. Set the left point gap when on a high spot of the cam lobe.
2. Adjust the base plate to fire at F1 or slightly before F1 for #1 and then slightly after F1 for #2.
This is where I said that if you only have 2 degrees of difference you don't have to worry too much.
Then check that the light does not come back on until past the F2 mark each time. Adjust the gap until it stays off.
3. Recheck and adjust the left point gap so that the gap is equal for both cam lobe high spots.
As long as the light comes back on in the same place after #1 and #2 the dwell is the same for both, regardless of the gap. That is what you are looking for, so the gap may NOT be the same for both sides of the cam.
4. Set the right point gap when on a high spot of the cam lobe.
5. Adjust the sub plate to fire exactly at F2 for both #3 and #4.
6. Recheck and adjust the right point gap so the gap is equal for both cam lobe high spots. See number 3.

Am I getting closer?
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Re: GL1000 Static Timing - Beginner Needs Help!

Postby Old Fogey » Tue Sep 29, 2015 12:05 pm

virgilmobile wrote:The duration between open and closed is the dwell angle.the ammount of time the that needs to be equal for both.


That's the idea scenario, but I bet 95% of the Wings out there, running just fine, are not that accurate. Including mine. I have no excuse since I have a dwell meter that I never use. In fact, I don't know what the dwell angle should be on these engines. Hmm... that could be interesting.

I have always just set it up as in the reply above.
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Re: GL1000 Static Timing - Beginner Needs Help!

Postby virgilmobile » Tue Sep 29, 2015 3:06 pm

I couldn't rig a dwell angle meter either,and many bikes run just fine being a bit off.I was just anal about it..including indexing the plugs.
Did it make a difference???
Probably....I just know it was a rocket when I got done.
Everything at factory specs.

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Re: GL1000 Static Timing - Beginner Needs Help!

Postby finalcut9 » Tue Sep 29, 2015 7:58 pm

I made some progress tonight. What I observed was that when I got the left side good, the right side would be off and vice versa. The movement of the plates is extremely sensitive! I should be able to get it closer with a little more practice. Is dynamic timing necessary if I get the static close to spec?

Read more: viewtopic.php?t=30112#ixzz3nB1TZ5mR

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Re: GL1000 Static Timing - Beginner Needs Help!

Postby spiralout » Tue Sep 29, 2015 8:24 pm

finalcut9 wrote:I made some progress tonight. What I observed was that when I got the left side good, the right side would be off and vice versa. The movement of the plates is extremely sensitive!

Mine are really sensitive, too. Just snubbing down the screws will throw it off some if I don't hold the plate tightly in place.
finalcut9 wrote:Is dynamic timing necessary if I get the static close to spec?

Not at all




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