Restoring a GL1000 gas tank

Information and questions on GL1000 Goldwings (1975-1979)
  • Sponsored Links
Post Reply
User avatar
Posts: 41
Joined: Mon Jul 20, 2009 3:53 pm
Location: Waynesville, NC
Motorcycle: 1978 Honda GL1000
1987 Yamaha Virago XV535T
1975 Honda CB360T
1999 Honda Valkryrie
2005 Suzuki Boulevard S40

Restoring a GL1000 gas tank

Post by pshaginaw » Fri Jul 23, 2010 1:17 pm

I am in the process of restoring a 1978 GL1000. I have dissambled the bike completely and am working on restoring each subassembly. I have dismaneled the gas tank as much as I possibly can and am working on removing the internal rust. I would like to use a clean-etch -reline kit process such as Kreem, Bill Hirsh Tank Reliner, POS, or the like. The tank has no pinholes, but is rusted inside. On close inspection, I find there is a fuel pick-up strainer and a reserve fuel pick-up strainer inside the tank, both of which are connected to the petcock. Is there a way to remove these? Can these somehow be bypassed? Obviously, if I use a tank sealer, these intaked will be coated and rendered inoperative. Can someone help me with how I might re-condition the tank without blocking these fuel pick-ups?

Posts: 70
Joined: Sun May 30, 2010 4:15 pm
Location: Henderson, Nv
Motorcycle: 82 GL1100a Aspencade

Re: Restoring a GL1000 gas tank

Post by leanjoe » Sat Jul 24, 2010 9:06 am

You cant remove them. Has the tank been removed ? I just did the tank on my 1100. It was not heavily rusted though,I dont know how bad yours is. I drained it with a siphon pump,then filled it with white vinegar overnight,siphoned it out the next day and sprayed it WD to keep flash rust from forming,then filled it up. I had no flow through reserve line before,now it flows beautifully. Cheap and worked like a charm. No liner needed ,just keep it full. Some guys put a little MMO every fill up,keeps corrosion at bay.

User avatar
Posts: 5
Joined: Tue Jul 27, 2010 12:18 pm
Location: Myrtle Point, Oregon
Motorcycle: 1982 GL1000 Goldwing

Re: Restoring a GL1000 gas tank

Post by MarcP1956 » Sun Aug 01, 2010 11:50 am

Lots of options with fuel tanks:

Check out this option: , people on the other forums speak highly of him.

This is what I am going to do with my 76 GL1000 tank: Take your tank down to a radiator shop and have it boiled out, pressure checked, and holes brazed. Paint the tank and you are done.

My previous method: 1. Empty fuel and air dry tank, 2. Put a few handfulls of drywall screws in tank and shake them, 3. Dump out the screws and rust out every 3-5 minutes, 4. Put screws back in and repeat untill tank is shiny clean, 5. Blow ALL the rust out, 6. Rinse out tank with alcohol (or gas), 7. Fill with gas and check for leaks. Has worked well for me, but I don't know how the screen would hold up. I have never done this with a tank that had an integrated screen.

Shalom, Marc

User avatar
Posts: 423
Joined: Tue Mar 09, 2010 12:58 pm
Location: Placerville, CA
Motorcycle: 1976 Naked Yellow

Re: Restoring a GL1000 gas tank

Post by Placerville » Fri Oct 01, 2010 2:19 pm

Before you do anything, go to and read the info. there about coating and cleaning. If your tank is out, take it to a radiator shop. They can clean it to 'like new' condition. Don't worry about the screens inside. If you want to go first class, have it nickle plated. This process will end your rust worries forever. If you don't want to take your tank out, it can be cleaned on the bike. On my '76 I used Muriatic Acid. There are other cleaning solutions, I like this one. I'd previously removed the sending unit to replace the gasket (recommended), then I filled the tank with undiluted Muriatic Acid. Be careful not to breath the fumes. Use a fan in your work area. Also, bag off any area on the bike that you do not want coming in contact with the acid. (The answer is 'everything'.) I left the acid in for 10 minutes agitating it slowly. I drained it, flushed the tank with water and baking soda, then flushed the tank with clear water 5 times. I used a small hose taped to a shop vac to remove the remaining water then immediately sprayed the interior with WD-40 to prevent rust flash. I rebuilt the petcock, replaced my fuel lines, filter and filled the tank with fresh fuel. I let it set to disolve/dilute the WD-40, then drained the fuel (used it in my lawnmower) and replaced with fresh. The tank inside looks new. Keep your tank full at all times when not riding and use STA-BIL in every tank as it helps remove moisture. If you want more info. on this process, email me at Glad to help.
Placerville- 1976 Yellow

Posts: 11
Joined: Thu Aug 30, 2012 7:10 pm
Location: Windsor, Ontario, Canada
Motorcycle: 1979 GL1000
1982 Yamaha 920 Euro

Re: Restoring a GL1000 gas tank

Post by tinkertoys » Thu May 21, 2015 12:56 pm

I just came across this post and while I'm sure it's too late to help the origional poster, it might help some other do-it-yourselfer down the line. At any rate here's my problem and solution.

A few years ago, when I just started my 79 wing project, iwas trying to get it started to see where where I stood mechanically. The carbs were really messed up and I couldn't get it to go. So we have a really well regarded bike mechanic in the next toen so I got him to have a go at my carbs. He did ok, but shortly after I found they were bunged up again. Stupid me, I hadn't ever looked inside mine tank. I had just drained gave it a bit of a clean up and fresh fuel. The darn thing was a rust bucket in there.

I took off the tank. Took off the petcock (careful with the gasket), took out the pick-up and screen apparatus.
I then got a rubber stopper and plugged the petcock hole, and as memory serves there was a vent hole as well.
At any rate plug all openings save the top filler hole. I then filled it with water, added a few tablespoons of borax or salt to act as an electrolyte, and got out my 12 v battery charger.
I have used this method for cleaning all kinds of metal parts and tools over the years, and it works very well.

I used about an 8 inch spike on a wire and lower it into the filled gas tank. I connect the positive clip of the battery charger to the wire (wire through a rag so as not to ground out). You then connect the negetive clip to the tank itself. Give it a godd wiggle under pressure to ensure a good ground. Then plug your charger in and watch for a few minutes and you will start to see tiny bubbles begining to rise. That is the electrolosis action working. I left mine on over night and it was fairly good. The spike was now about the size of a thin nail. I had to clean the tank and do it all over for another 3 or 4hours. Mine had been pretty bad to start. Anyway it came out really well, shiny clean metal, and the bike runs fine today. Mind you I had to do the carbs again, but this time I wasn't going to pay the price of 4 carbs for a 2nd time.

So there you have it. It worked for me, I hope it works for the next guy.

Post Reply