Charging


Information and questions on GL1000 Goldwings (1975-1979)
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terryt
Posts: 97
Joined: Mon Jul 23, 2012 4:52 pm
Location: United Kingdom
Motorcycle: 1979 gl1000 trike

Charging

Postby terryt » Thu Aug 25, 2016 3:44 pm



Hi I am thinking of doing a separate wiring loom for the charging circuit as I am not 100% sure of the charging circuit wiring on my 1978 Goldwing
the 3 wires from stator to rectifier with a lead off to the regulator.
the 2 red wires from rectifier linked then to the battery.
the 2 green wire one to tail light and one to frame ground and the regulator.
now the black wire looks like it goes to various switches is there any where I can run this to with out using the loom?



User avatar
Maz
Posts: 237
Joined: Tue May 19, 2015 4:43 am
Location: Kent, UK
Motorcycle: 1975 GL1000K1
1976 CB500T
1979 CB750L
1990 Yamaha FJ1200

Re: Charging

Postby Maz » Fri Aug 26, 2016 8:26 am

terryt wrote:Hi I am thinking of doing a separate wiring loom for the charging circuit as I am not 100% sure of the charging circuit wiring on my 1978 Goldwing
the 3 wires from stator to rectifier with a lead off to the regulator.
the 2 red wires from rectifier linked then to the battery.
the 2 green wire one to tail light and one to frame ground and the regulator.
now the black wire looks like it goes to various switches is there any where I can run this to with out using the loom?


The black is the main 12v feed from the ignition switch, so if you wanted to replace that, you would have to connect it to all of the relevant ignition controlled circuits.

Maz
Nostalgia is not what it used to be!

User avatar
terryt
Posts: 97
Joined: Mon Jul 23, 2012 4:52 pm
Location: United Kingdom
Motorcycle: 1979 gl1000 trike

Re: Charging

Postby terryt » Sat Aug 27, 2016 12:19 pm

Maz wrote:
terryt wrote:Hi I am thinking of doing a separate wiring loom for the charging circuit as I am not 100% sure of the charging circuit wiring on my 1978 Goldwing
the 3 wires from stator to rectifier with a lead off to the regulator.
the 2 red wires from rectifier linked then to the battery.
the 2 green wire one to tail light and one to frame ground and the regulator.
now the black wire looks like it goes to various switches is there any where I can run this to with out using the loom?


The black is the main 12v feed from the ignition switch, so if you wanted to replace that, you would have to connect it to all of the relevant ignition controlled circuits.

Maz

Thanks for that Maz tested and cleaned all the terminals up checked for and sorting now charging at 14.7 volts at 3000rpm and 14.2 at tick over one thing I did notice when I put the lights full on at 3000rpm the voltage went up slightly.
also how hot does the rectifier get when running?

User avatar
Maz
Posts: 237
Joined: Tue May 19, 2015 4:43 am
Location: Kent, UK
Motorcycle: 1975 GL1000K1
1976 CB500T
1979 CB750L
1990 Yamaha FJ1200

Re: Charging

Postby Maz » Sat Aug 27, 2016 3:15 pm

terryt wrote:
Maz wrote:
terryt wrote:Hi I am thinking of doing a separate wiring loom for the charging circuit as I am not 100% sure of the charging circuit wiring on my 1978 Goldwing
the 3 wires from stator to rectifier with a lead off to the regulator.
the 2 red wires from rectifier linked then to the battery.
the 2 green wire one to tail light and one to frame ground and the regulator.
now the black wire looks like it goes to various switches is there any where I can run this to with out using the loom?


The black is the main 12v feed from the ignition switch, so if you wanted to replace that, you would have to connect it to all of the relevant ignition controlled circuits.

Maz

Thanks for that Maz tested and cleaned all the terminals up checked for and sorting now charging at 14.7 volts at 3000rpm and 14.2 at tick over one thing I did notice when I put the lights full on at 3000rpm the voltage went up slightly.
also how hot does the rectifier get when running?

Well it will get warmer , the more work it does, which is why it has cooling 'fins' and is bolted to metal. However, your volts do sound a little high, especially at tickover. I suggest you go over every connection in the charging circuit and consider getting rid of the plug and socket for the 3 yellow wires from the alternator and solder them instead. Any slightly poor connections in the charging circuit can cause the alternator or reg/recently to give high / low output.
Maz
Nostalgia is not what it used to be!

User avatar
terryt
Posts: 97
Joined: Mon Jul 23, 2012 4:52 pm
Location: United Kingdom
Motorcycle: 1979 gl1000 trike

Re: Charging

Postby terryt » Sat Aug 27, 2016 3:45 pm

Maz wrote:
terryt wrote:
Maz wrote:
The black is the main 12v feed from the ignition switch, so if you wanted to replace that, you would have to connect it to all of the relevant ignition controlled circuits.

Maz

Thanks for that Maz tested and cleaned all the terminals up checked for and sorting now charging at 14.7 volts at 3000rpm and 14.2 at tick over one thing I did notice when I put the lights full on at 3000rpm the voltage went up slightly.
also how hot does the rectifier get when running?

Well it will get warmer , the more work it does, which is why it has cooling 'fins' and is bolted to metal. However, your volts do sound a little high, especially at tickover. I suggest you go over every connection in the charging circuit and consider getting rid of the plug and socket for the 3 yellow wires from the alternator and solder them instead. Any slightly poor connections in the charging circuit can cause the alternator or reg/recently to give high / low output.
Maz


Thanks for that will recheck all connections tomorrow. checked the charging again with lights and main beam on.
the results are
1000rpm lights off 14.5 on 13.6
2000rpm lights off 14.6 on 14.9
3000rpm lights off 14.7 on 15.3

User avatar
Maz
Posts: 237
Joined: Tue May 19, 2015 4:43 am
Location: Kent, UK
Motorcycle: 1975 GL1000K1
1976 CB500T
1979 CB750L
1990 Yamaha FJ1200

Re: Charging

Postby Maz » Sat Aug 27, 2016 4:00 pm

Definitely too high, Terry. Charging at 15v or more will ultimately cook the battery.
Maz
Nostalgia is not what it used to be!

User avatar
aussiegold
Posts: 92
Joined: Sat Jun 25, 2011 3:02 am
Location: Australia
Motorcycle: 1975 Goldwing (No 8 to come to Oz )
1976 LTD cleverly diguised as an 81 interstate
1976 LTD.. a feller with 2 LTD's can't be all bad.....

Re: Charging

Postby aussiegold » Thu Sep 01, 2016 8:03 pm

these type of charging problems seem to be popping up a lot, i reckon, just because of the age of the bikes. but there is a simple and easy fix.

first, what is usually the problem, is the black " sense " wire that tells the regulator the state of charge in the battery.
so, from the battery to the ignition switch , is a RED wire.From the ignition , to feed lots of things is a BLACK wire. this runs lights, ignition etc.
there are a few connections and plugs on the way , so with any poor connection , a false reading is given, causing the regulator to overcharge ( usually ) the battery.

second, Euro/Australian delivery bikes, were fitted with an on/off switch for the headlight. this required slightly different wiring setup to the US models. the aforementiond black wire , takes a detour up to the headlight switch to power the headlight. also, one YELLOW wire from the charge circuit also runs through that switch.
when the headlight is turned on, that Yellow wire boosts the charge rate to run the light.

one fix i did here,
intercepted that YELLOW wire under the left hand shelter and joined it there. this means the bike is charging at full rate , all the time. also, the switch block
( which is made from unobtainium ) no longer has the power from that wire running through it, hopefully making it last longer.
i also wired the headlight to a relay, so the switch now just turns the relay on, meaning the power for the headlight no longer runs through the switch block.

re the stator wires. i do NOT believe the way to fix the connection is to cut it off and solder the wires together. many will disagree. will that fix it ? yes. but ,i believe the BEST way is to replace the plug,and use dielectric grease to seal it. i have done this, and once a year i clean the plug and apply new grease. it is as new.
this leaves the plug in place, which makes it easier to remove the engine if needed, and also it is still easy to test the stator , via the plug.

on to the charge rate fix, have a read of this thread , the last post has links to different sites, explaining how to ELIMINATE the problem of the black sense wire and updating your charging system at the same time.

http://www.ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=61139




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