77 GL1000 - a few questions


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garagedog
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Motorcycle: 1977 GL1000

77 GL1000 - a few questions

Post by garagedog » Sat Sep 02, 2017 1:38 pm



Hi. I'm working on a GL1000 for the first time. 1977 with 31,000 miles.

Question #1: Final Drive... The orginal final drive had been leaking oil and the rear rim was a mess. After all the reading I did, I decided to just get a used unit off ebay. I found a 79 final drive with 15,000 miles. The unit does look to have low hours. I mounted the unit and put in Lucas Hub oil (with seal swell). I rode it for a while and felt the final drive to see if it was hot. It was pretty hot. I could only put my had on it for just 1 or 2 seconds. I did some research and decide to loosen and re-tighten everything in the correct order (Axle, 3 final drive nuts, shock, brake caliper), changed to semi synthetic gear oil 75-90 and replaced the wheel bearings. Old bearings were not damaged. I then went for another ride and the thing is still hot to the touch. Forum thread research says that the final drives run a little hot and some other threads say it should be hot. My next attempt will be full synthetic gear oil but after that, I'm out of ideas.

Question #2: Front brakes.... I fully rebuild the front master cylinder and calipers. Originally the lever was stuck but now after the full clean and rebuild it is working OK but not great. I'm not fully satisfied because the first pull the lever moves about 3/4 way and the 2nd pull will go about 1/2. Braking is fine but I do not prefer to have that pump action. I've bleed it several times (vacuum and reverse). Am I correct to assume this issue is from the original hoses that might be swelling up a bit on the first pump? Or are these 77 just like that?

Question #3: Radiator fan... I have yet to see the fan kick on. Anyone have an easy way to test/trouble shoot this? Is there a fuse somewhere?

Your knowledge and shared experience is appreciated. Thank you!
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Shadowjack
Posts: 16
Joined: Wed Aug 17, 2011 5:22 pm
Location: Bellevue, NE
Motorcycle: 1977 GL1000
1975 CB750
2011 NT700VA

Re: 77 GL1000 - a few questions

Post by Shadowjack » Sun Sep 03, 2017 8:11 am

All final drives run pretty hot, whether it's a bike or a car. If the wheel spins easily, whether hot or cold, it's not bad.
Brake: you still have air in the system. I've found that getting the master cylinder angled so that the pushrod from the lever is the highest point will allow air to travel up and bleed out. Sometimes you have to temporarily twist and maladjust the bars and lever to get this to work out. You can watch the air come out while gently pumping the lever.
My fan kicks on at the upper end of the thick part of the white bar on the temp gauge. It never goes that high while moving, but letting it idle for awhile will do it.

SnoBrdr
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Location: Providence, Rhode Island
Motorcycle: 1978 GL 1000

129K Original Owner

Re: 77 GL1000 - a few questions

Post by SnoBrdr » Sun Sep 03, 2017 2:59 pm

Shadowjack wrote:
Sun Sep 03, 2017 8:11 am
All final drives run pretty hot, whether it's a bike or a car. If the wheel spins easily, whether hot or cold, it's not bad.
Brake: you still have air in the system. I've found that getting the master cylinder angled so that the pushrod from the lever is the highest point will allow air to travel up and bleed out. Sometimes you have to temporarily twist and maladjust the bars and lever to get this to work out. You can watch the air come out while gently pumping the lever.
My fan kicks on at the upper end of the thick part of the white bar on the temp gauge. It never goes that high while moving, but letting it idle for awhile will do it.
I'd get rid of those hoses as well and go all SS.

They are after all 40+ years old.

Even with it all rebuilt and new hoses the brakes aren't great.

The gauges are a total joke, especially the gas gauge.

Use them only as a guesstimate.

Here's a vid to test the switch:


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garagedog
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Location: Tulare, CA
Motorcycle: 1977 GL1000

Re: 77 GL1000 - a few questions

Post by garagedog » Tue Sep 05, 2017 1:09 pm

Thanks for the tips men. Appreciate it.

I think in previous attempts I had the bike on the center stand when the front lever was pinned back. This time I left it overnight on the side stand and the handlebars turned as instructed above. Shazam, it worked! Front brake is nice and firm and consistent.

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badandy
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Location: Weirton, West Virginia
Motorcycle: 1977 GL1000 Goldwing
1982 GL500I
1983 VT500 Shadow

Re: 77 GL1000 - a few questions

Post by badandy » Thu Sep 07, 2017 8:09 am

#1. I have three Hondas with shaft drive. The final drives do get warm, but not to the point you can't leave your hand on them.

#2. I have found that the banjo bolt at the m/c may need cracked to bleed stubborn air.

#3. The thermal switch in the thermostat housing may need replaced. You can pull the plug at the switch and put a jumper wire across it. The fan should work it the fuse is good.

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garagedog
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Re: 77 GL1000 - a few questions

Post by garagedog » Sat Sep 09, 2017 8:42 pm

badandy wrote:
Thu Sep 07, 2017 8:09 am
#1. I have three Hondas with shaft drive. The final drives do get warm, but not to the point you can't leave your hand on them.

#2. I have found that the banjo bolt at the m/c may need cracked to bleed stubborn air.

#3. The thermal switch in the thermostat housing may need replaced. You can pull the plug at the switch and put a jumper wire across it. The fan should work it the fuse is good.

Re#1. Wheel rotates freely by hand. No binding. I've read a ton of threads and its seems about 50/50 on who thinks believes the FD is normally hot vs. those who don't (not just GoldWings either). I will remove and remount again with more moly paste. Tighten in this order....Axle, shocks, FD 3 nuts, then caliper right?
Re#2. I did that too.
Re#3. Fan does work when jumped. Can that switch be replaced without removing the radiator?
-thanks
gd

SnoBrdr
Posts: 505
Joined: Fri Mar 07, 2014 9:01 am
Location: Providence, Rhode Island
Motorcycle: 1978 GL 1000

129K Original Owner

Re: 77 GL1000 - a few questions

Post by SnoBrdr » Sun Sep 10, 2017 8:06 am

garagedog wrote:
Sat Sep 09, 2017 8:42 pm
badandy wrote:
Thu Sep 07, 2017 8:09 am
#1. I have three Hondas with shaft drive. The final drives do get warm, but not to the point you can't leave your hand on them.

#2. I have found that the banjo bolt at the m/c may need cracked to bleed stubborn air.

#3. The thermal switch in the thermostat housing may need replaced. You can pull the plug at the switch and put a jumper wire across it. The fan should work it the fuse is good.

Re#1. Wheel rotates freely by hand. No binding. I've read a ton of threads and its seems about 50/50 on who thinks believes the FD is normally hot vs. those who don't (not just GoldWings either). I will remove and remount again with more moly paste. Tighten in this order....Axle, shocks, FD 3 nuts, then caliper right?
Re#2. I did that too.
Re#3. Fan does work when jumped. Can that switch be replaced without removing the radiator?
-thanks
gd
Fan switch can be R&R without removing the radiator.

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garagedog
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Re: 77 GL1000 - a few questions

Post by garagedog » Mon Sep 11, 2017 12:25 am

27mm socket got it off. Ordered a new one from eBay.
-thanks for help

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badandy
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Location: Weirton, West Virginia
Motorcycle: 1977 GL1000 Goldwing
1982 GL500I
1983 VT500 Shadow

Re: 77 GL1000 - a few questions

Post by badandy » Mon Sep 11, 2017 9:00 pm

I've got your twin way over here in West Virginia. :D
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garagedog
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Re: 77 GL1000 - a few questions

Post by garagedog » Sat Sep 16, 2017 3:43 pm

Hey, twins!

The new $22 ebay thermo switch is making the fan to work properly now. The fan kicks on when the temp gauge is at about at 80% of the white section. I had a little trouble trying to thread the new TS on until I put a 1/2 inch hose on the end and then fished it on. Much easier than trying to get my hands in there. A long wobble extension wasn't working either.





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