1975 Goldwing Main Fuse Blowing


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hdboy02
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1975 Goldwing Main Fuse Blowing

Postby hdboy02 » Wed Nov 24, 2010 11:47 am



I tried starting it, cranked it over, stopped, cranked it over, stopped... did this about four times. It was sitting there with the key on only, not trying to start it, and suddenly I heard the main fuse blow. Now, as soon as I turn the key on, it blows the main fuse. Anyone have any ideas where I may start looking first?



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Re: 1975 Goldwing Main Fuse Blowing

Postby WingAdmin » Wed Nov 24, 2010 1:16 pm

Remove all the fuses except the main fuse, and see if the main fuse still blows. Then start replacing the fuses one by one, and see if replacing any one of them causes the main fuse to blow.

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Re: 1975 Goldwing Main Fuse Blowing

Postby virgilmobile » Wed Nov 24, 2010 7:37 pm

The 30 amp main fuse feeds through the ignition switch to the ignition ballast resistor and voltage regulator,Unplug the ballast resistor and test,Unplug the voltage regulator and retest,the rest of the system is separately fused with smaller fuses.A short there would blow it's fuse before the main one.Remember,with points,if the engine isn't running the points may be closed and close the loop for current draw through the resistor and coils(cooking the coils,melting wires,etc).If the short is not found readily, use a old headlight in place of the fuse,it will simply light when the short is still there.It gives you time to check wiring before blowing a bunch of fuses testing it.There is a schematic on this site and one i chopped up.the red wire is not shorted(it would blow the fuse right away).Hope this helps.virgil
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Re: 1975 Goldwing Main Fuse Blowing

Postby hdboy02 » Sun Nov 28, 2010 12:29 pm

I unhooked everything I could think of including everyones suggestion... all the fuses, the ballast resistor, and the voltage regulator. Same results. As soon as I turn on the key, the main fuse blows. I am running electronic ignition which they sent a different kind of ballast resistor which I unplugged. It ran fine all summer with it. I am still stumped!!! :cry:

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Re: 1975 Goldwing Main Fuse Blowing

Postby grandpa » Mon Nov 29, 2010 10:30 am

Hi.
I can't help you with the fault, but I can give you an idea so you don't have to replace the fuse every time you turn the key to check.
Get a 12volt bulp and a socket for the same. Connect 2 wires to the socket and use this instead of the fuse. If the bulp light up when you turn the key you stil have a short.
It does'n matter if the bulp is 5W or 55W the only difference is how much light it gives.
An other thing is that if you use a 10W bulp your wiring will never burn because there will never run more than 1 AMP.
This is just an idea. Good luck.
Jens Ole

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Re: 1975 Goldwing Main Fuse Blowing

Postby WingAdmin » Mon Nov 29, 2010 11:47 am

That's a good idea about the light bulb in place of the fuse. If it is still blowing the main fuse with all of the other fuses removed, then this is actually good news - it isolates the short to somewhere between the main fuse, and the fuse block holding all of the other fuses. Chances are the wire going from the main fuse to the fuse block has gotten pinched or chafed at some point, and is contacting the frame, or metal connected to the frame. See if you can trace that wire through the harness to find a point where it might be damaged.

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Re: 1975 Goldwing Main Fuse Blowing

Postby hdboy02 » Mon Nov 29, 2010 11:58 am

These are all great ideas! I have to purchase a 12volt light and socket and then will do some tracing. Will let you know what i find. Thanks a bunch for the ideas! :)

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Re: 1975 Goldwing Main Fuse Blowing

Postby hdboy02 » Mon Nov 29, 2010 7:30 pm

I hooked up the 12 bulb and socket and it lights up real nice! I moved every wiring harness around that I could get my hands on and couldn't even get a flicker out of the light. I am not 100% positive but I don't think any bare wire is touching the frame. Now I am wondering if something went bad in the ignition switch. I have never taken the ignition switch out so I have to figure that one out. I could then check resistance on that wire from the main fuse. Any other ideas? I am running out of warm weather here in Ohio!

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Re: 1975 Goldwing Main Fuse Blowing

Postby virgilmobile » Tue Nov 30, 2010 7:01 am

Unplug the ignition switch,short red(feed wire)and black(load wire)if the light is still bright the switch is ok.the black load circuit is shorted to ground .

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Re: 1975 Goldwing Main Fuse Blowing

Postby WingAdmin » Tue Nov 30, 2010 3:42 pm

I don't think it's going to be the ignition switch - there's no ground connection in there (unless it's failed so miserably that there is a piece of something physically grounding it to the case).

Also check the red/white wire that goes from the starter/main fuse to the rectifier. If that wire is shorted out, then it will blow the fuse.

While you're at it, unplug the rectifier altogether and see if that fixes it. You could have an internal short inside the rectifier that's causing the problem.

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Re: 1975 Goldwing Main Fuse Blowing

Postby WingAdmin » Tue Nov 30, 2010 3:53 pm

oops, scratch that about the rectifier - that's the 1100 that is after the fuse, on the 1100, the rectifier does not run through the master fuse.

OK, so it doesn't blow until the key gets turned on, which means the red wire between the fuse and the key switch is OK. It blows when the key is turned to "ON", which means the black load wire is shorted somewhere, as virgilmobile mentioned.

You ruled out the regulator and ballast resistor. I'm going to guess that the problem is still in the black wire leading from the ignition switch to wherever the short is.

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Re: 1975 Goldwing Main Fuse Blowing

Postby hdboy02 » Wed Dec 01, 2010 10:21 am

Okay guys... I have to ask a dumb question because I have never used a 12V light to find a short. Once I (hopefully) find the short and eliminate it, the 12V light will go out? It's on a hot wire from the battery, that's why it confuses me. It's like the ignition switch acts as a ground when I turn it on? I never have claimed to be a 12V wiring guru but I am learning! :D

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Re: 1975 Goldwing Main Fuse Blowing

Postby WingAdmin » Wed Dec 01, 2010 10:45 am

Correct - when the short is eliminated, the light will go out (or at least very dim).

With the short in place, the power was going from the battery, through the master fuse, through the wire, through the short (wherever it is), to ground, which goes right back to the battery. There is no resistance to the power, so the current flowing is massive - enough to melt wires and start fires. The only limit is how much current the wire can handle before it melts - EXCEPT - that there is a fuse in the circuit. The job of the fuse is to melt before the wiring does. That's why the fuse is blowing - to protect the wiring from the short that is occurring.

Putting a light bulb in place of the fuse acts as a resistor, limiting the current that flows through the shorted wire, and preventing it from melting. A side effect of having the light bulb resisting current is that the filament inside the light bulb gets very hot - so hot, that it glows white, and hey presto, you have a light bulb.

So once you eliminate the short, there won't be massive current attempting to flow anymore, and the light bulb will go out. Actually, because there are SOME things in the bike drawing power (headlight, tail lights, etc), your tester light bulb will probably stay on a bit dim - and the headlight/taillights will be dim as well, because your tester light bulb is restricting the power getting to them. However, if you have all the fuses pulled out, this shouldn't happen.

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Re: 1975 Goldwing Main Fuse Blowing

Postby grandpa » Thu Dec 02, 2010 3:35 pm

Hi WingAdmin.

Thank you for the explanation. My english is not as good to make such an explanation my self.

hdboy02 hope you have luck and when you find the short please let us know.

Good luck.

Grandpa

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Re: 1975 Goldwing Main Fuse Blowing

Postby littlebeaver » Thu Dec 02, 2010 3:55 pm

What would make a fuse blow, maybe a bad ground at the frame???

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Re: 1975 Goldwing Main Fuse Blowing

Postby HALBUDD » Thu Dec 02, 2010 6:02 pm

No there has to be a wire some where that has the positive voltage on it,that is shorting to ground. If you were to take the ground off of the battery and no other grounds to battery it wouldnot be able to short as there no way for the voltage to get to ground.Thanks Hal
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Re: 1975 Goldwing Main Fuse Blowing

Postby grandpa » Fri Dec 03, 2010 6:55 am

Correct HAL and it has to bee a thick one. Otherwise the wire has melted before the fuse. I don't know if it is posible to go behind the switch. If it is and it is posible to disconnect the wires the disconnect one wire at a time or disconnect all of them and check the switch. If it is ok then connect one wire at the time. I have a feeling that it is the switch but it is only a feeling. Where I am at the moment I have no wiring diagram so this is the best I can help. Once again, good luck

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Re: 1975 Goldwing Main Fuse Blowing

Postby hdboy02 » Fri Dec 03, 2010 7:11 am

Thank you everyone for your input. It is getting cold here in Ohio and I do not have a heated garage so it is going to be sparingly when I work on it. I will definitely keep you all informed though what I find and the progress I make. This is my first time posting here and I am really impressed with the feedback. I really do appreciate it and love the communication! :D

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Re: 1975 Goldwing Main Fuse Blowing

Postby virgilmobile » Fri Dec 03, 2010 8:43 am

I reviewed the schematic again.The short exists on the black load wire.It feeds:ballast resistor for the ignition(you unplugged),the fuse panel(you removed all the fuses),The voltage regulator(the 3 wire part not the rectifier block...see the pix),and the cooling fan.The fan is a grounding circuit,so the fan has power to it when the key is on.Unplug the fan.If the short is still there with all this unplugged the black wire is pinched to ground somewhere.
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Re: 1975 Goldwing Main Fuse Blowing

Postby WingAdmin » Fri Dec 03, 2010 1:49 pm

I agree with virgilmobile. It's got to be that wire - it could be an internal short inside the harness, which makes it really tough to find, unfortunately.

Lodi is just down the road from me, so as I sit here looking out at the snow falling, I know exactly what you mean! Fortunately I insulated and heated my garage a couple years ago, just to be able to work on my bike during the winter! :)

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Re: 1975 Goldwing Main Fuse Blowing

Postby hdboy02 » Fri Dec 03, 2010 2:16 pm

I did see where you are from Strongsville. Actually, I live in Ashland. I work in Lodi. I wish I would have insulated and heated my garage. It's that hindsight thing. I will get out there when I can! I don't like missing any riding time. When all this happened, I was putting it away for the winter.

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Re: 1975 Goldwing Main Fuse Blowing

Postby HALBUDD » Fri Dec 03, 2010 5:41 pm

One other idea get a ohm meter diconnect the battery put one lead on your positive wire and the other at the hot lead of your fan should show a dead short. Then try reading your hot fan lead only to ground if you are showing a short to ground then its a pinched somewhere.good luck Hal
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Re: 1975 Goldwing Main Fuse Blowing

Postby hdboy02 » Sat Dec 11, 2010 9:31 am

Okay Virgilmobile, I have another question... When you say the black load wire, are you talking about the one coming off of the ignition switch? I was looking at the wiring schematic and that black wire that I think you are talking about feeds a lot of things on the bike if I am looking at it correctly. Still trying to figure all this out!

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Re: 1975 Goldwing Main Fuse Blowing

Postby hdboy02 » Sat Dec 11, 2010 12:04 pm

I just unhooked the fan and got the same results as before. It didn't affect the light at all. I guess my next move is to tear into the ignition switch and try and trace that black wire? Does anyone know where it goes so I could find the other end or does it branch off to a bunch of places?

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Re: 1975 Goldwing Main Fuse Blowing

Postby grandpa » Sat Dec 11, 2010 12:52 pm

HI Again.
I still have the feeling the switch is the problem. Is it possible to disconnect the black wire somewhere after the switch. In worst case you can cut the wire and connect again when you have tried turning the key. Inside the ignition switch there metal moving around and I have seen switches short and when they do it, is a real short. Welle I havn't see on a bike but in cars.
When you go further to the branches you probaly go down to the fuses and they will def. blow before the mainfuse.
Onece again I don't have a wiring diagram but my understanding of the main switch is to make connection to other systems which have there own fuses. Like the fan, it must have its owen fuse which has to be installed after the main switch.
Just some thoughts fro grandpa which at this moment is sitting talking to Santa Claus. Im am at the top of Greenland at a place named Thule Air Base.
Good luck




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