Starting Problem.


Information and questions on GL1000 Goldwings (1975-1979)
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grandpa
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Starting Problem.

Postby grandpa » Sun Apr 17, 2011 5:52 pm



Hi out there.
My job do that I am away 4 weekes and home 4 weeks. When I come home and try to start my 78 Wing I have to have the starter running for long time before it vill start. But when it has started there is no problem. Then I just have to pull a little bit choke and before the engin has turned 1 rev on the starter, it is running. Even with low power on the battery. I have electronic ignition. I leave the fuel tap open. I have the idea that the reason is that the fuel evaporate from the carp an the pump must fill them first time I try to start.
Could that be the reason and if is there something I can do to eliminate.



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virgilmobile
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Re: Starting Problem.

Postby virgilmobile » Mon Apr 18, 2011 7:33 am

My 1000 and 1100 acted the same.I checked one time before I tried to start it and found very little gas in the carbs.I cured that problem by removing the mechanical fuel and replacing it with a modified (2.0-2.5 psi) electric pump.When the carbs are full,and electronic ignition,it would always fire right up,no matter how many weeks it sat up.

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virgilmobile
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Re: Starting Problem.

Postby virgilmobile » Mon Apr 18, 2011 7:36 am

Oh,by the way,I never leave the fuel lever on.More than once,a needle didn't seat properly,and fuel filled one cylinder(hydraulic locked).

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dingdong
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Re: Starting Problem.

Postby dingdong » Mon Apr 18, 2011 8:34 am

Virgilmobile is right on. That is the problem and the only solution. With the electric pump just turn the key on and the bowls will fill up without cranking the starter.
Tom

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grandpa
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Re: Starting Problem.

Postby grandpa » Mon Apr 18, 2011 8:45 am

Hi and thanks for the quick reply.
The reason I leave the lever on is tha the guy I bought from told me that if I din't do it the carbs would drie out. ( He is specialist in Honda GoldWing ) But on other biks I have had I always turn of the fuel. From now on I will turn the lever so I don't risk an fuelblock in the cylinder.

What kind/brand of electrical fuelpump du you use, and please let me know where I can get one.
Once again thanks for quick reply.

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Re: Starting Problem.

Postby dingdong » Tue Apr 19, 2011 8:37 am

Here is a link to Amazon.com The pump is 2 - 3.5 psi. (pounds per square inch) I don't know how you measure flow in Denmark. You will have to build a mounting bracket as it won't fit as is. You should be able to go to any auto parts store there and tell them what you need.

"Mr. Gasket micro electric fuel pump, 12 volts, 2 - 3.5 psi. #42 S.

http://www.amazon.com/Mr-Gasket-42S-Ele ... 607&sr=1-1
Tom

A well regulated Militia, being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear Arms, shall not be infringed.

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grandpa
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Re: Starting Problem.

Postby grandpa » Tue Apr 19, 2011 10:09 am

Hi dingdong.

I am so pleased with this site because one always get an good answer. In Denmar we use both psi and the metric bar but because I am within Air Force I am used to PSI.

But one more queations. The old fuel pump, does that has to be removed or can I leave it in place. Or will it damedge something when it is running without fuel.

Thanks for your reply.

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Re: Starting Problem.

Postby WingAdmin » Tue Apr 19, 2011 10:16 am

The existing fuel pump runs off an eccentric cam and is not lubricated (with engine oil). That cam operates a lever and a diaphragm, which also is not lubricated. I would leave the existing pump in place. That way if your electric pump ever fails for any reason, you have a built-in backup pump that you can switch to in just a few minutes using a screwdriver.

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Re: Starting Problem.

Postby Old Fogey » Sat Apr 30, 2011 8:07 pm

WingAdmin wrote:The existing fuel pump runs off an eccentric cam and is not lubricated (with engine oil). That cam operates a lever and a diaphragm, which also is not lubricated. I would leave the existing pump in place. That way if your electric pump ever fails for any reason, you have a built-in backup pump that you can switch to in just a few minutes using a screwdriver.


Sorry Admin, but the cam and lever are lubed by engine oil. There is no seal on the camshaft on that end; the oil gets through the bearing. That's why the tach drive can leak if the tach seal is damaged.
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Re: Starting Problem.

Postby grandpa » Sun May 01, 2011 4:53 am

Hi.
Thank's for the reply. I hav't got my electrical pump yet, but when I put it on I defently leve the original in place and just block the in and outlet.
Grandpa

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Re: Starting Problem.

Postby Old Fogey » Sun May 01, 2011 6:42 am

If you are looking for a ready-made electric pump solution, Randakk has one, among the many things he does for these old machines.
http://www.randakks.com/Electrical%20Parts.htm
If you go another route and leave the old pump in place, it might be an idea to take the top off the pump and remove the valves once you've done the conversion. I have a feeling that the valves will not like clacking up and down constantly without the lubing and cooling effect of the fuel passing though.
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'Impossible' is just a level of difficulty! The only stupid question is the one you didn't ask first!

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grandpa
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Re: Starting Problem.

Postby grandpa » Sun May 01, 2011 7:16 am

Hi Old Fogey
This is an excelent sulution you come up with here. I think I will stick to this. I have the same feeling like you have about the old pump still working but now without any kind of lubrcation.
The funny is that I have just in the past winter put some relay on the same place that Randakkks put his tiltrelay. When I got some time I will put some photo on members pictures and at descreiption about what I have done to the electrical system.
Thanks again.

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Re: Starting Problem.

Postby Old Fogey » Sun May 01, 2011 8:33 am

You could also do this;

But not with Randakk's kit.
This for my own electric conversion when I get time to finish it.
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'Impossible' is just a level of difficulty! The only stupid question is the one you didn't ask first!

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grandpa
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Re: Starting Problem.

Postby grandpa » Sun May 01, 2011 10:04 am

Hi Old Fogey

It looks beautiful :D But as you write it can not bee used together with Randakk's kit so I think I wil stick to the Kit. I have posted some picture on members pic. side so you can see what I have been dooing last winter. I have put on some notes. Now I am started to prepare for next wintwr work and the fuelpump is one of the project.

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Re: Starting Problem.

Postby Old Fogey » Sun May 01, 2011 12:48 pm

Oh, and I would avoid any 'Goldwing expert' that tells you to leave the fuel on. If you are going to leave them for any real length of time it's best to switch off the fuel, run it 'till it's dry and maybe even drain the rest out at the drain plugs. Modern fuels will simply evaporate and leave a gummy residue in the float chamber. Perhaps that was what he was trying to avoid with his advice, but the risk of hydro lock is simply too great to do that.
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'Impossible' is just a level of difficulty! The only stupid question is the one you didn't ask first!

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grandpa
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Re: Starting Problem.

Postby grandpa » Sun May 01, 2011 3:01 pm

Hi
I agree with you. I have the same problem with a Honda Generator (making eletrecity). If I forgot to turn off the fuel I have a hydraulic lock so I have to take the plug off to empty the cylinder.
From now on I vill use your advise when I have to park the bike for longer time. Norm. 4-5 weeks. Regardles if I do it or not I have to fill the carbs befor it vill start. And when I put the electrical pump on it is no hasard.
Thanks.

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Re: Starting Problem.

Postby WingAdmin » Mon May 02, 2011 10:21 am

Old Fogey wrote:Sorry Admin, but the cam and lever are lubed by engine oil. There is no seal on the camshaft on that end; the oil gets through the bearing. That's why the tach drive can leak if the tach seal is damaged.


Perhaps it's different on the GL1000 and GL1100 then? On the 1100 the cap is sealed, and the tach drive and pump cam are lubricated only with the grease that is put there during installation:

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