Carb problem? Electrical problem?


Information and questions on GL1000 Goldwings (1975-1979)
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thomascomcast
Posts: 60
Joined: Fri Aug 07, 2009 9:40 pm
Location: Atlanta
Motorcycle: 1979 gl1000
1983 gl1100

Carb problem? Electrical problem?

Postby thomascomcast » Mon Sep 28, 2009 10:36 am



I am rejuvenating a 1979 GL1000 that hasn't been ridden since 2004 except for a few short rides in the las couple of weeks. I have what appears to be a rich fule problem that affects carb #3. Bike lacks power and sometimes stalls when I stop at stoplight. How do I get carb #3 to function correctly?

This is what I have done for the last few days.

Friday:

Randakk kits installed in carbs last week. Cleaned carbs again today and got a little better performance at idle.

The bike starts immediately when cold and idles good. But, even when warmed up, the right carb manifolds are ice cold and the right exhaust is cold and the left manifolds are hot and the left exhaust is hot.

The bike sits there and idles like a champ but lacks power and when driven sometimes won't idle at stoplight - just stops. When restarted it idles OK sometimes.

The pilot jets were at 2 turns and I have increase that to 3 turns with no difference in idle.

And just to aggravate me a little more the starter solenoid died and I have to stick a screwdriver between the solenoid posts to start the bike.

Saturday:

Cleaned the carbs again.

Sprayed carb cleaner all over the outside of the carbs and manifolds - no difference in idle speed.

The right carb manifolds are still ice cold and the right exhaust is cold and the left manifolds are hot and the left exhaust is hot

Synced the carbs with vacuum gauges. Slight change in performance.

Unscrewed sync port on carb #4 and then #2 - slight drop in rpms and some spitting out the hole in #4 but not #2 - sprayed carb cleaner in holes and got momentary increase in rpms and then resumed slightly slower idle speed from both ports. Put screws back in and regained slight increase in rpms.

Unscrewed sync port screw on carb #3 and engine started racing high from 1200 rpm to 3000 rpm - put finger over hole and rpms went back to normal - sprayed carb cleaner in port and rpms decreased a little but engine was still racing. Put screw back in hole and regular idle rpms resumed.

Unscrewed sync port screw on carb #1 and engine did not race - sprayed carb cleaner in port and didn't seem to get any difference in rpms. Put screw back in port.

Exhaust from left muffler still hot from the start up through warm-up. Exhaust from right exhaust cold until warmed up and then barely luke warm.

Checked valve clearances and AOK.

Checked compression: #1-120psi #2-133psi #3-125psi #4-130psi

Pulled plugs for #1 and #3 cylinders and laid them against frame and both sparked.

recleaned vacuum plungers with tin foil but that made no difference.

It's as if the air intake to cylinder #3 is blocked off somehow since it races wildly when I remove the sync screw in the intake manifold.

I have made an obvious error somewhere and I can't find it.



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WingAdmin
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Re: Carb problem? Electrical problem?

Postby WingAdmin » Mon Sep 28, 2009 11:00 am

I've followed your troubleshooting, and it's similar to what I would have done. I think you've eliminated electrical as a problem - #1 and #3 use the same coil as you know.

To me, it sounds as if the butterfly valve for #3 is sticking/jammed. Can you look at all the valves while the throttle is operated, to ensure that #3 is opening like the others?

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78AzWing
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Location: San Tan Valley, Arizona
Motorcycle: 1978 GL1000 UnDressed and Progressively Weber Carbureted

Re: Carb problem? Electrical problem?

Postby 78AzWing » Fri Oct 23, 2009 4:27 am

Did you do the complete install of Randakk's kit?
Including the O-rings between the plenum halves and the plenum and carbs?
Sounds like a fuel starvation problem.
If I remove any of the plugs from my inlets my bike dies. Not sure if yours is right or mine is right and I don't have a running second wing to check against.

Did you check your valve clearances? They might be off.
Set the mixture screws to two turns from lightly bottoming in their seats. Or to what ever Randakk's instructions tell you to set them.
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