78 No power to bike UPDATE


Information and questions on GL1000 Goldwings (1975-1979)
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yaont2
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78 No power to bike UPDATE

Postby yaont2 » Mon Jul 25, 2011 6:48 pm



I have taken a test light to the batter, main fuse, fuse box, starter, and the connector that plugs into the ignition switch. I have power all the way to the switch but no power through the switch to the rest of the bike. I just received a brand new switch in the mail today and installed it still with no power to the bike. At this point i'm baffled. Any other ideas and thoughts would be greatly appreciated.



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dingdong
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Re: 78 No power to bike UPDATE

Postby dingdong » Tue Jul 26, 2011 8:53 am

The first thing to do is check for continuity through the switch. Put your meter across the red and black wires to and from the switch. With the switch in the on position you should have 0 ohms resistance. That will tell you if the switch is working.
Tom

A well regulated Militia, being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear Arms, shall not be infringed.

yaont2
Posts: 16
Joined: Wed May 18, 2011 12:25 am
Location: Rock Hill, South Carolina
Motorcycle: 1978 GL1000

Re: 78 No power to bike UPDATE

Postby yaont2 » Mon Aug 29, 2011 2:20 pm

Just wanted to let you guys know we found the problem. It was a 33 year old solenoid that had corroded horribly and was pretty much shot. After that was replaced the bike ran like a champ. Thanks again for your help!

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thrasherg
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Re: 78 No power to bike UPDATE

Postby thrasherg » Mon Aug 29, 2011 2:39 pm

Why would a bad solenoid cause you to have no volts going through the ignition switch? Something doesn't make sense? Glad you got it fixed..

Gary

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virgilmobile
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Re: 78 No power to bike UPDATE

Postby virgilmobile » Mon Aug 29, 2011 3:06 pm

thrasherg wrote:Why would a bad solenoid cause you to have no volts going through the ignition switch? Something doesn't make sense? Glad you got it fixed..

Gary

Side note:The stock starter solenoid has a fuse link on it and a 4 conductor plug.2 wires for the click click solenoid and 2 for the electrical system.The fuse link jumps up to the battery connection on the solenoid.A corroded terminal can kill all electric to the bike.Just another weak link.

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thrasherg
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Re: 78 No power to bike UPDATE

Postby thrasherg » Mon Aug 29, 2011 5:04 pm

But he said he had volts at the switch, just not on the other side of the switch, I can't see how that could be the solenoid, it could only be a bad switch?? What am I missing, it doesn't really matter, I am just curious?? :)

Gary

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virgilmobile
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Re: 78 No power to bike UPDATE

Postby virgilmobile » Tue Aug 30, 2011 6:40 am

A corroded connection can still pass enough current to light a test light but fail completely under normal current draw.
The bike draws near 10 amp as soon as the key is on , so if it was tested first with the key off it may have volts to the switch,then turn on the switch and check the other side and it's dead.
He may not have re-tested back toward the fuse at the time the switch was on.

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thrasherg
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Re: 78 No power to bike UPDATE

Postby thrasherg » Tue Aug 30, 2011 11:58 am

Good point.. Hadn't thought of that!!

Thanks.




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