Help fixing my GL1000


Information and questions on GL1000 Goldwings (1975-1979)
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ron0339
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Location: Indianapolis,in
Motorcycle: 1978 GL1000

Help fixing my GL1000

Postby ron0339 » Sat Aug 06, 2011 8:05 pm



Anyone know anyone that lives in the Indianapolis, In area that can help me fix my 78 Gl1000? I can't afford to take it to the dealer and have no clue what I'm doing.



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virgilmobile
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Location: Denham Springs,La.
Motorcycle: 1988 GL1500 I
Previously owned
78 GL1000
81 GL1100
82 GL1100 I
83 GL1100 I
83 GL1100 standard
84 GL 1200 I

Re: Help fixing my GL1000

Postby virgilmobile » Sat Aug 06, 2011 9:13 pm

We have lots of clues here.What's the problem?

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Fred Camper
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Re: Help fixing my GL1000

Postby Fred Camper » Sun Aug 07, 2011 6:22 am

What does it not do that you expect it to do. Let narrow it down a bit first.

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ron0339
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Motorcycle: 1978 GL1000

Re: Help fixing my GL1000

Postby ron0339 » Sun Aug 07, 2011 10:02 am

When I bought the bike it had to be choked for 5 mins. before it would run right then it popped back alot while riding at low speeds so some one told me the air cut offs where bad. I rebuild the carbs (it has 1100 carbs) adjusted the mix and synced. now it starts revs up great but if you try to ride it it doesn't like going over 2500 rpms. And sometimes you have to crank it for awhile for it to start.

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Fred Camper
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Re: Help fixing my GL1000

Postby Fred Camper » Sun Aug 07, 2011 4:17 pm

1100 carbs have diaphrams not slider, you now that but maybe others do not. Sounds like the diaphrams are not traveling like they should but hope other can offer more suggestion as I am a neophyte regarding 1100 carbs (and 1000's too)

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virgilmobile
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Motorcycle: 1988 GL1500 I
Previously owned
78 GL1000
81 GL1100
82 GL1100 I
83 GL1100 I
83 GL1100 standard
84 GL 1200 I

Re: Help fixing my GL1000

Postby virgilmobile » Mon Aug 08, 2011 8:18 am

Fred Camper wrote:1100 carbs have diaphrams not slider, you now that but maybe others do not. Sounds like the diaphrams are not traveling like they should but hope other can offer more suggestion as I am a neophyte regarding 1100 carbs (and 1000's too)


Actually the 1200 has the diaphragm and the 1100 and 1000 useh none.If the slides on either type are stuck it will not rev well at all.Pull the air cleaner,stick a small mirror to look at the slides.They should float up and down with ramping on the throttle .The 1100 also uses 4 air cutoff valves(1 per carb),It enriches the fuel mixture to reduce a lean condition on decelerating only.
Where it pops back will indicate the type of fuel problem.Pops in carbs=too lean or valve adjust/timing
Pops in exhaust=too rich,can't burn all the gas it's getting,excess ends up accumulating in the exhaust until it ignites there.

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dingdong
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Re: Help fixing my GL1000

Postby dingdong » Mon Aug 08, 2011 8:54 am

Timing advance not working properly I would guess. Hanging up from lack of lubrication.
Tom

A well regulated Militia, being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear Arms, shall not be infringed.

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ron0339
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Location: Indianapolis,in
Motorcycle: 1978 GL1000

Re: Help fixing my GL1000

Postby ron0339 » Wed Aug 10, 2011 6:36 pm

I found part of my problem. The dynatek is dead on one side. Anyone know where i can get the parts to put the points back in cheap?

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Fred Camper
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Re: Help fixing my GL1000

Postby Fred Camper » Wed Aug 10, 2011 8:09 pm

You may want to check with Dyna, they do seem to stand behind there product.

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ron0339
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Re: Help fixing my GL1000

Postby ron0339 » Wed Aug 10, 2011 11:28 pm

It was on the bike when I bought it and I'm sure it is out of warranty.

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landisr
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Motorcycle: 1976 GL1000
1994 GL1500A

Re: Help fixing my GL1000

Postby landisr » Thu Aug 11, 2011 1:00 pm

Ebay has lots of points assemblies as well as new Dyna units, and a number of vendors sell new of either. Restoring the points, etc could get you back on the road quickest, but I would also contact DynaTek and ask them if they will bench test your unit if you send it to them. If it is bad, they may very well sell you a new unit at a very reasonable price... I'm thinking they do this as part of their GREAT customer service. (Another example is that they have installation instructions on their web site.) Voice of experience here..

Good luck. Ron in MI

www.dynaonline.com
Beam me up, Scotty. There's no intelligent life down here.

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dingdong
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Re: Help fixing my GL1000

Postby dingdong » Fri Aug 12, 2011 9:28 am

Last time I checked they would replace for $60.

Edit: It just occurred to me that some Dynas have a problem with grounding. Mine did. Seems the plate that the modules are mounted on is a tad thinner that the rim that it is mounted to. When the two mounting screws are tightened down it doesn't make good contact therefor not creating a good ground. I had to install external star lock washers under the screws in order to get a good ground. Also I have heard that the set screws that hold the modules to the plate can loosen and prevent a good ground. If yours is running some of the time I would bet that is your problem.
Tom

A well regulated Militia, being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear Arms, shall not be infringed.

snutamusprime
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Re: Help fixing my GL1000

Postby snutamusprime » Wed Aug 31, 2011 5:48 pm

I am running into the same prob. My issue is that the left side is running too rich as the right is too lean.(left is foul right is a brownish reddish tinge newer set just put in last fall and less than 50 miles ) Sounds great until you try to ride, struggles to go up the smallest hill or need full throttle when taking off. Over the past two years i Have the carbs redone (over 1100 into them and no one makes an effort to tell me why ) for me and i am tired of paying out the rear for same results. after reading this thread i realized that my prob is with the dyna . Constantly needing to adjust them inside the cover and fighting to keep the rest of the bike in tune. We were getting ready to take the coil off the bike to have them tested as we were going to have the carbs rebuilt once again. (I feel real stupid and should) I want to sell it but every time I get the opportunity It falls thru. please keep posting on this issue. i will look at the site for the dyna s and try testing let every one know whats up.

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Fred Camper
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Re: Help fixing my GL1000

Postby Fred Camper » Wed Aug 31, 2011 8:08 pm

Prime,
Mechanics always say that carbs should be in the oil pan and ignition systems up on top in the middle. Folks often go to carbs when it makes no sense to do so until the ignition system is spot on. But we need more detail on what you learn about the coils, as old coils are troublesome. I have dynatech ignition, coils and wires, so my system is new and I really appreciate that when it rains and such.

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scotterichmond
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Re: Help fixing my GL1000

Postby scotterichmond » Thu Sep 01, 2011 10:05 am

I am a mechanic from ........ well way back. Call me old , but I remember before electronic ignitions were common. As for me, I will stick with old school points. Instead of the "magic" box I can not "fix".

snutamusprime
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Re: Help fixing my GL1000

Postby snutamusprime » Thu Sep 01, 2011 12:23 pm

well all, I have offically started the testing process and hit a small snag in testing, I decided to start at the plug and work backwards, cap coil and ballast resistorthen on to the dyna test . I couldent remember how to test the coil so refered to a newly downloaded manual. As i read thru i found the troubleshooting and it listed for possible causes for running only on one side. To make this short , my multi meter dosent tell me how to test the capisitor. I am turning my testing around and starting there. It makes more since to me because the cap looks old and nasty..." there is my prob"... If it test soundly great, but it already runs differently after switching the wires to the oppisit that it was hooked up. could this be all of the problem? would a bad capisitor allow the one side to crap out and the other to live large or even if it was hooked up wrong the whole time would it let one side run lean and the other run rich?
oh yea any one know how to test a capisitor with a multi meter? i will search for it.

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virgilmobile
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Location: Denham Springs,La.
Motorcycle: 1988 GL1500 I
Previously owned
78 GL1000
81 GL1100
82 GL1100 I
83 GL1100 I
83 GL1100 standard
84 GL 1200 I

Re: Help fixing my GL1000

Postby virgilmobile » Tue Sep 06, 2011 3:51 pm

Are the capacitors suppose to be left installed with the new system?

Normally the caps in a point system ,when bad,will lend to a poor spark and burnt point contacts.So it may have a similar affect on your system.Swapping the capacitor wires changes the spark?well there's your problem.

Accurate testing of a cap requires a meter designed for that.However,sense you have 2 to compare...Use your old (((ANALOG)))ohm meter,set it for R x 100 ,probe the ground and wire(not hooked up)the needle may deflect some,reverse the leads and watch the needle jump.You can do this several times.You may need to re-scale the meter..eg R x 1000 or R x 1 whichever gives results.Then compare to the other cap.

The voltmeter,even the $5 at Harbor Freight will work.Not the digital kind,the needle kind.

snutamusprime
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Re: Help fixing my GL1000

Postby snutamusprime » Wed Sep 07, 2011 12:04 pm

Update... I am waiting on my buddy (actual mec.)to come over later this week.he has all the tools. we are going to test the coil and dyna. the capasitor is bad... I hooked up a grounding clamp to an old sparkplug and retested the spark in all of my wires and see that # 2 is real weak but present.also tested all spark plug caps and all within range. The bike will still run with out #2 wire attached. but will not run with #2 attached and any one of the others not. and the bike starts/runs without the capasitor attached. Is the Capasitor needed with a dyna ignition? can a coil be bad only half way? and is the dyna still able to fire the coil if the dyna is bad?
none the less we will be doing a compression test to verify some questions in regaurds to current request by possible buyers and to be able to answer questions. thank all of you for answers and futher intregue.
prime

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Fred Camper
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Re: Help fixing my GL1000

Postby Fred Camper » Wed Sep 07, 2011 6:42 pm

My 1977 with a Dynatech 3 system with Dynatech coils does not use the ballast resistor or the condenser.

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dingdong
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Re: Help fixing my GL1000

Postby dingdong » Thu Sep 08, 2011 10:45 am

Yeah, Gotta disconnect the condenser with the Dyna. Some Dynas depending on age say to disconnect the ballast.
Tom

A well regulated Militia, being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear Arms, shall not be infringed.

snutamusprime
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Location: lebanon, ohio
Motorcycle: 1976 gl1000

Re: Help fixing my GL1000

Postby snutamusprime » Thu Sep 08, 2011 3:16 pm

dingdong wrote:Yeah, Gotta disconnect the condenser with the Dyna. Some Dynas depending on age say to disconnect the ballast.


do you think the Condenser has had a negitive effect/ harmed the dyna? we also bought a new ballast resistor last year when we replaced the sparkplug caps.i guess i chould call dyna. sry trying to take a short cut asking questions.

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virgilmobile
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Location: Denham Springs,La.
Motorcycle: 1988 GL1500 I
Previously owned
78 GL1000
81 GL1100
82 GL1100 I
83 GL1100 I
83 GL1100 standard
84 GL 1200 I

Re: Help fixing my GL1000

Postby virgilmobile » Thu Sep 08, 2011 4:09 pm

Yes , if the condenser is not suppose to be in the circuit,having it there could absorb some of the pulse voltage the trigger is trying to send to the CDI module.Unhook both of them and try it again.If both get worse then it needs the caps,and replace them.

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Fred Camper
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Re: Help fixing my GL1000

Postby Fred Camper » Thu Sep 08, 2011 7:41 pm

You need the ballast resistor unless you run Dynatech coils, or at least aftermarket coils of higher voltage potential. Dynatech coils can take the higher energy spark all the time so they go without the ballast. The condenser has no place in a Dyna circuit, regardless of the coils.

snutamusprime
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Motorcycle: 1976 gl1000

Re: Help fixing my GL1000

Postby snutamusprime » Mon Sep 26, 2011 7:47 pm

hey guys Im back again with a report. dyna replied with yes (fred you were right) we need a resistor but no condenser. the prob is that they supply a resistor with their system that was never on the bike. the factory resistor is 3ohm and the one they supply is a 1.2 ohm. our factory coil is 2 ohm and we are looking for a 3 total. so right now i have dyna+3ohm resistor+2 ohm coil= 5 ohm and a weak spark.

I did the compression test with a lovely harbor freight special. number 2=78--4=90--1=90--3=90. no change between dry and wet. sounds like it should not be running at all right? well that's what i thought and had the tester tested with the air compressor pressin 160lbs and the tester measured 115lbs... bad tester!! added new battery and played with adjustments on carbs( not the ones that sync) and now runs pretty well, sounds great but runs sluggish but only in gear till you get going then i finally saw 65 mph all season high. what do you guys think about the compression? and no i have not had time to get another tester nor the test.

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scotterichmond
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Re: Help fixing my GL1000

Postby scotterichmond » Tue Sep 27, 2011 9:53 am

Look in the service manual at page 3-11 ( normal compression should be 171 PSI )
If you need a manual I can send you a link to get one in PDF for free.




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