30 amp fuse getting warm


Information and questions on GL1000 Goldwings (1975-1979)
  • Sponsored Links
omishbob
Posts: 3
Joined: Sun Jul 31, 2011 10:51 pm
Location: Muskegon, MI
Motorcycle: 1978 GL1000

30 amp fuse getting warm

Postby omishbob » Sat Oct 08, 2011 10:17 am



Some info. I have a 78 gl1000 with an aftermarket 30 tube fuse. I recently had troubles with my 30 amp fuse blowing every time i turned the key on. I replaced the rectifier, and now the bike runs. The 30 amp fuse is getting warm. I was just wondering if this is normal.



omishbob
Posts: 3
Joined: Sun Jul 31, 2011 10:51 pm
Location: Muskegon, MI
Motorcycle: 1978 GL1000

Re: 30 amp fuse getting warm

Postby omishbob » Sat Oct 08, 2011 3:15 pm

Well, I got the bike running. I took it out for a spin and after about 10 miles, it blew the fuse. I replaced it and it started up again. got about 6 miles and blew again and just kept blowing them. went home and got my trailer, and by the time I got back, it would run again. It seems I must have a short somewhere, but it only seems to take place when the bike gets warmed up.

User avatar
Thundercloud
Posts: 13
Joined: Tue Dec 15, 2009 10:20 am
Location: Yulee, Florida
Motorcycle: 1985 GL1200 A
Contact:

Re: 30 amp fuse getting warm

Postby Thundercloud » Sun Oct 09, 2011 7:13 am

there are three yellow wires on the left side in front of the battery these are stator wires when the bike was new there was a plug here.
Honda found that this was a bad idea and said to cut out this plug and hard wire ( solder and double heat shrink) all three wires, this may have been the cause for the rec to go bad and causing the fuse to blow. there are other issues that could cause this but I think you should start here.

Hank

User avatar
WingAdmin
Site Admin
Posts: 17046
Joined: Fri Oct 03, 2008 4:16 pm
Location: Strongsville, OH
Motorcycle: 2000 GL1500 SE
1982 GL1100A Aspencade (sold)
1989 PC800 (wife's!)
1998 XV250 Virago (sold)
2007 Aspen Sentry Trailer

Re: 30 amp fuse getting warm

Postby WingAdmin » Sun Oct 09, 2011 8:58 am

If a fuse blows (repeatedly) it indicates one thing and one thing only: There is an overload somewhere. The 30 amp fuse has one purpose: To protect the battery from overload, either during charge or discharge. The exception to this is the starter circuit, which connects directly to the battery, bypassing this fuse.

If you are riding and blowing this fuse, and the battery keeps going dead (which will happen fairly quickly if you are drawing a constant 30 amps from it), then you've got a short somewhere in the wiring in your bike.

If you are riding and blowing this fuse and the battery is NOT going dead, it means the battery is drawing too much current from the stator when charging. This indicates the battery may have an internal short and need to be replaced.

omishbob
Posts: 3
Joined: Sun Jul 31, 2011 10:51 pm
Location: Muskegon, MI
Motorcycle: 1978 GL1000

Re: 30 amp fuse getting warm

Postby omishbob » Sun Oct 09, 2011 12:36 pm

I just installed a new battery about a moth ago and haven't had a problem with it going dead. I replaced the rectifier this weekend, but I will cut out the connectors and hard wire it to see if that helps. I went through yesterday and checked every wire I could get my hands on to make sure there were no exposed sections. The bike has run since, but I haven't taken it out for a long ride yet either.

User avatar
glasshead
Posts: 139
Joined: Sun Jun 13, 2010 10:30 am
Location: Lexington, KY
Motorcycle: 1983 Goldwing Interstate

Re: 30 amp fuse getting warm

Postby glasshead » Wed Oct 12, 2011 10:53 am

I have an 83 Interstate. I just had a similar problem. My gas gauge wasn't working. I took it all apart and checked wires, etc. Put it all back together and the gauge works. On my way to work yesterday, the bike just went dead. Pulled over (luckly I was in the right lane) and found that I had blown the main fuse. Called the wife because I Could have sworn I had exta fuses. When she brought me a new fuse, it blew as soon as I turned the key on. The first thought I had (for some reason) was to unplug the fairing wires, to help isolate the problem. New fuse, and she started right up. Of course, I had no headlight or front turn signals. I have not had a chance to check it any further. I still have the three yellow wires by the battery on the plug. But I don't think that will fix this problem. I am going to check all the wires in the fairing closely. I am also thinking of making a 'jump' wire to connect each wire from the plugs one at a time. Hopefuly, if one of the wires has a short, the fuse will only blow when that particular connector is 'jumped',\. :?: :?: :?:
Any other theories are welcome.


rich

User avatar
glasshead
Posts: 139
Joined: Sun Jun 13, 2010 10:30 am
Location: Lexington, KY
Motorcycle: 1983 Goldwing Interstate

Re: 30 amp fuse getting warm

Postby glasshead » Sat Oct 15, 2011 5:30 pm

I don't mean to take this thread away from omishbob, but we may be dealing with the same problem (or similar). I took my fairing off and took the wirering harness completely out and looked over every wire. I did not see anything that looked amiss. I put it all back together, and I am not blowing a fuse. Just like omishbob, I have not taken her for a long drive yet, but riding around the neighborhood poses no problem. But that was the way it was when I statred off to work last week. Everything fine until I was on the highway going 65 for about 20 min.
I saw a post about how to check if the stator was functioning ( I think that is what it was) where I checked the voltage at the battery at idle: It was 12.6 volts. Rev it to 5,000 rpms and according to the post it should be between 13.5 and 14.5 volts. Mine was 14.2 volts. Here is the interesting thing. (The post did not address this at all). When I let off the gas and went back to idle, I was getting 13.5 volts. Cut the engine and 20 min or so later, I was getting 13.0 volts. with the engine off. I went out for an hour and checked it again without starting the bike when I got home and it was back to 12.6 volts.

Like omishbob, I am hesitant to take it to work again because I can't afford to be standed again on the way there. By the way, the main wire to my fuse (the one that is connected to the + and - on the far right in the fuse box) is not there. There is a yellow wire from the battery with a 15 amp fuse on it and the other end is connected to a light blue and black wire and it bipasses the fuse box alltogether. The fuse on the acc terminal got so hot last summer when I rode it home from buying it, that it melted the plastic on the holder. The guy that did the initial work on it for me when I got it, (and the only one since, except me), put the bipass on. I don't have any accessories at all so I guess I don't need that fuse.

Where to go from here to give me the confidence back that it will not blow the fuse again after half hour or so. :?: :?:

User avatar
glasshead
Posts: 139
Joined: Sun Jun 13, 2010 10:30 am
Location: Lexington, KY
Motorcycle: 1983 Goldwing Interstate

Re: 30 amp fuse getting warm

Postby glasshead » Sun Oct 16, 2011 6:55 pm

Omishbob, have you taken a long ride yet to see if you blow a fuse?

rich

User avatar
Fred Camper
Posts: 1152
Joined: Sun Aug 16, 2009 9:15 pm
Location: Metro Detroit, MI
Motorcycle: 1977 GL1000, 1976 LTD GL1000

Re: 30 amp fuse getting warm

Postby Fred Camper » Tue Oct 18, 2011 6:37 pm

A new battery can be bad, so just because you replaced it omishbob, do not assume it is good. And glass head, 12.6 after being fully charged and sitting for two hours does not sound good enough. I think that is about 80% state if charge but am going off memory. I know mine reads 12.2 fully charged once off the charger for two hours and that is something like 40% state of charge. Mine is certainly toast and is slated for replacement in the spring. I need to be careful about long rides now, as the stator is overworked with a bad battery like mine.

User avatar
glasshead
Posts: 139
Joined: Sun Jun 13, 2010 10:30 am
Location: Lexington, KY
Motorcycle: 1983 Goldwing Interstate

Re: 30 amp fuse getting warm

Postby glasshead » Tue Oct 18, 2011 9:35 pm

Fred

Would a weak battery cause the fuse to blow? I am thinking that unplugging the wiring harness at the fairing may not have isolated a short, it just took the load of the headlight off the battery.
I had my battery bench tested at AutoZone tonight. It checked out GOOD but needing charging.

rich

User avatar
Fred Camper
Posts: 1152
Joined: Sun Aug 16, 2009 9:15 pm
Location: Metro Detroit, MI
Motorcycle: 1977 GL1000, 1976 LTD GL1000

Re: 30 amp fuse getting warm

Postby Fred Camper » Wed Oct 19, 2011 8:34 am

So rich, sounds like your issue is not the battery but just a short somewhere that you need to isolate and find.

Good idea to have your battery bench tested as they can cause replacement of good parts.

User avatar
glasshead
Posts: 139
Joined: Sun Jun 13, 2010 10:30 am
Location: Lexington, KY
Motorcycle: 1983 Goldwing Interstate

Re: 30 amp fuse getting warm

Postby glasshead » Sat Oct 22, 2011 11:20 pm

I finally got around to cutting the stator connecting plug today. When I pulled the plug apart, I found that the female end of the connector had melted what I assume is the ground lead. See the picture. I am also going to assume for the moment that it is the cause of all my electrical problems. :D

rich
Attachments
stator connector plug
stator connector plug

User avatar
Thundercloud
Posts: 13
Joined: Tue Dec 15, 2009 10:20 am
Location: Yulee, Florida
Motorcycle: 1985 GL1200 A
Contact:

Re: 30 amp fuse getting warm

Postby Thundercloud » Sun Oct 23, 2011 6:11 am

this is typical for a goldwing you need to make sure that your stator is in good condition you should have 32 volts a/c out but from these wires unconnected (set your meter to a/c not d/c) the regulator converts and regulates the power to d/c at around 13.2 volts d/c.
check the three wire with the bike running with your meter one to the other testing all three and then check all three to ground you are looking for around 32 volts a/c. if this test is good then solder the wires together run the bike and test voltage at the battery you should have with the head light on 12.8 to 13.2 on a good battery.

good luck
Thundercloud

User avatar
WingAdmin
Site Admin
Posts: 17046
Joined: Fri Oct 03, 2008 4:16 pm
Location: Strongsville, OH
Motorcycle: 2000 GL1500 SE
1982 GL1100A Aspencade (sold)
1989 PC800 (wife's!)
1998 XV250 Virago (sold)
2007 Aspen Sentry Trailer

Re: 30 amp fuse getting warm

Postby WingAdmin » Sun Oct 23, 2011 1:09 pm

It's not ground - the stator produces three-phase AC, which requires three wires. Run the engine up to about 3500 RPM, and using a multimeter set for AC, measure between each of the two sets of wires - i.e. measure between 1-2, 2-3 and 3-1. You should see around 48 VAC between each leg.

Be careful while measuring!!! There is a DANGEROUS amount of electricity there - enough to really hurt, and certainly enough to kill you should you be unlucky enough to take it through your chest.

User avatar
Fred Camper
Posts: 1152
Joined: Sun Aug 16, 2009 9:15 pm
Location: Metro Detroit, MI
Motorcycle: 1977 GL1000, 1976 LTD GL1000

Re: 30 amp fuse getting warm

Postby Fred Camper » Sun Oct 23, 2011 4:53 pm

Be sure to use jumper wires with an easy way to connect your voltmeter between the legs. Admin is spot on that when the engine is being held up near 3000 rpm you will want a good easy way to hold the leads on.

User avatar
Thundercloud
Posts: 13
Joined: Tue Dec 15, 2009 10:20 am
Location: Yulee, Florida
Motorcycle: 1985 GL1200 A
Contact:

Re: 30 amp fuse getting warm

Postby Thundercloud » Sun Oct 23, 2011 6:22 pm

glasshead I would consult a manual for exact information seems the wing admin with half my age and half my experience wants to post a different version of what I have already said with some errors. but use caution hope you get your bike back on the road.
Thundercloud

User avatar
Fred Camper
Posts: 1152
Joined: Sun Aug 16, 2009 9:15 pm
Location: Metro Detroit, MI
Motorcycle: 1977 GL1000, 1976 LTD GL1000

Re: 30 amp fuse getting warm

Postby Fred Camper » Sun Oct 23, 2011 7:09 pm

here is a good link about checking your stator:
http://www.ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=27215

User avatar
WingAdmin
Site Admin
Posts: 17046
Joined: Fri Oct 03, 2008 4:16 pm
Location: Strongsville, OH
Motorcycle: 2000 GL1500 SE
1982 GL1100A Aspencade (sold)
1989 PC800 (wife's!)
1998 XV250 Virago (sold)
2007 Aspen Sentry Trailer

Re: 30 amp fuse getting warm

Postby WingAdmin » Mon Oct 24, 2011 9:37 am

Thundercloud wrote:glasshead I would consult a manual for exact information seems the wing admin with half my age and half my experience wants to post a different version of what I have already said with some errors. but use caution hope you get your bike back on the road.
Thundercloud


Do you really want to start this? I didn't comment on your outright wrong comment that a failed stator plug could cause the master fuse to blow. That's impossible - they're not even connected to one another!

I also didn't comment on the fact that It's not possible to cause a rectifier to go bad due to a failed stator plug - also something you stated.

If we want to get into inaccuracies and errors, let's look at your other message:

Thundercloud wrote:this is typical for a goldwing you need to make sure that your stator is in good condition you should have 32 volts a/c out but from these wires unconnected (set your meter to a/c not d/c) the regulator converts and regulates the power to d/c at around 13.2 volts d/c.
check the three wire with the bike running with your meter one to the other testing all three and then check all three to ground you are looking for around 32 volts a/c. if this test is good then solder the wires together run the bike and test voltage at the battery you should have with the head light on 12.8 to 13.2 on a good battery.


The stator, at cruise RPM (which is where it should be tested) puts out a nominal 48 VAC, not 32.

A lead acid battery at rest (no charge, no load) has a potential of 12.73 volts. When the GL1000/1100/1200 engine is at idle, the battery is discharging - the stator is not generating enough power to run the bike, and therefore the bike is running off the battery. At cruise (the GL1000 service manual calls this 5000 RPM) you should be measuring 14.5 volts, not 13.2 as you stated. If your regulator is putting out only 13.2 volts, you've got a serious charging problem. This again is from the GL1000 service manual.

Go ahead and post your erroneous information, but don't then go questioning others and accusing them of being wrong, when in fact their (i.e. my) information is correct. Regardless of age and experience (curious as to how you claim to know either of mine).

User avatar
virgilmobile
Posts: 7647
Joined: Sun Sep 19, 2010 5:39 pm
Location: Denham Springs,La.
Motorcycle: 1988 GL1500 I
Previously owned
78 GL1000
81 GL1100
82 GL1100 I
83 GL1100 I
83 GL1100 standard
84 GL 1200 I

Re: 30 amp fuse getting warm

Postby virgilmobile » Mon Oct 24, 2011 10:03 am

Boy am I glad I didn't post anything on this topic :mrgreen:

User avatar
WingAdmin
Site Admin
Posts: 17046
Joined: Fri Oct 03, 2008 4:16 pm
Location: Strongsville, OH
Motorcycle: 2000 GL1500 SE
1982 GL1100A Aspencade (sold)
1989 PC800 (wife's!)
1998 XV250 Virago (sold)
2007 Aspen Sentry Trailer

Re: 30 amp fuse getting warm

Postby WingAdmin » Mon Oct 24, 2011 10:24 am

virgilmobile wrote:Boy am I glad I didn't post anything on this topic :mrgreen:


Normally I blow this stuff off, but...oh well, guess I was having a bad morning. :)

User avatar
scotterichmond
Posts: 613
Joined: Fri May 06, 2011 3:49 pm
Location: Marblemount,wa
Motorcycle: 1975 GL1000
[img]http://images.goldwingdocs.com/scotterichmond_32376/Modestly_restored_1975_GL1000_750/engine_repainted_even_new_embl_3919.jpg[/img]

Re: 30 amp fuse getting warm

Postby scotterichmond » Mon Oct 24, 2011 11:49 am

I think you should all just hug and make up, :D then get back to fixin' wings. It does no one any good to let it get personal.

Just one opinion.( I am allowed that ..... right?)

User avatar
glasshead
Posts: 139
Joined: Sun Jun 13, 2010 10:30 am
Location: Lexington, KY
Motorcycle: 1983 Goldwing Interstate

Re: 30 amp fuse getting warm

Postby glasshead » Mon Oct 24, 2011 3:58 pm

I'm not sure I want to continue this :) :) but here goes. I already soldered my three yellow wires. Do I need to un solder them to check the ac volts? (Carefully of course). :?

rich

User avatar
WingAdmin
Site Admin
Posts: 17046
Joined: Fri Oct 03, 2008 4:16 pm
Location: Strongsville, OH
Motorcycle: 2000 GL1500 SE
1982 GL1100A Aspencade (sold)
1989 PC800 (wife's!)
1998 XV250 Virago (sold)
2007 Aspen Sentry Trailer

Re: 30 amp fuse getting warm

Postby WingAdmin » Mon Oct 24, 2011 5:03 pm

glasshead wrote:I'm not sure I want to continue this :) :) but here goes. I already soldered my three yellow wires. Do I need to un solder them to check the ac volts? (Carefully of course). :?

rich


Unless you're already having a problem with weak charging, I wouldn't worry about it. You've already solved the problem of the melted stator connector.

User avatar
Thundercloud
Posts: 13
Joined: Tue Dec 15, 2009 10:20 am
Location: Yulee, Florida
Motorcycle: 1985 GL1200 A
Contact:

Re: 30 amp fuse getting warm

Postby Thundercloud » Mon Oct 24, 2011 6:02 pm

wing admin I have 40 years as a motorcycle mechanic 13 as a shop owner. I stated that you posted a different version of what I said not that you were wrong you are good at reading from the book but that's is not always the case ( real world). Gents sorry for getting his neck hairs in an uproar.
As to your age wing admin if that is a true picture of you as I would put at 35 to 38 years old. read first, think about what you read, apply real world to the mix then speak.

Thundercloud

User avatar
WingAdmin
Site Admin
Posts: 17046
Joined: Fri Oct 03, 2008 4:16 pm
Location: Strongsville, OH
Motorcycle: 2000 GL1500 SE
1982 GL1100A Aspencade (sold)
1989 PC800 (wife's!)
1998 XV250 Virago (sold)
2007 Aspen Sentry Trailer

Re: 30 amp fuse getting warm

Postby WingAdmin » Mon Oct 24, 2011 6:36 pm

Thundercloud wrote:wing admin I have 40 years as a motorcycle mechanic 13 as a shop owner. I stated that you posted a different version of what I said not that you were wrong you are good at reading from the book but that's is not always the case ( real world). Gents sorry for getting his neck hairs in an uproar.
As to your age wing admin if that is a true picture of you as I would put at 35 to 38 years old. read first, think about what you read, apply real world to the mix then speak.

Thundercloud


No harm no foul. I'm just now pleased that you think I might be 35 years old. You've made my day. :)




Return to “GL1000 Information & Questions”




Who is online

Users browsing this forum: Bing [Bot], dingdong and 1 guest