Upgraded Stator


Information and questions on GL1100 Goldwings (1980-1983)
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steve allen
Posts: 149
Joined: Thu Nov 19, 2009 8:51 am
Location: theodore, al
Motorcycle: 1987 1200 Aspencade
1994 GL1500 SE
1995 CB1000

Upgraded Stator

Postby steve allen » Wed Jan 13, 2010 10:40 pm



Is there any after-market stators that is truely higher output then the OEM. I will be pulling out engine before long and that is one thing I want to up-grade. Clutches is next.



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WingAdmin
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Location: Strongsville, OH
Motorcycle: 2000 GL1500 SE
1982 GL1100A Aspencade (sold)
1989 PC800 (wife's!)
1998 XV250 Virago (sold)
2007 Aspen Sentry Trailer

Re: Upgraded Stator

Postby WingAdmin » Thu Jan 14, 2010 11:35 am

I have never heard of replacement aftermarket stators for the GL1100. That said, you couldn't shoehorn a higher-output stator into the existing charging system, because it would overheat and burn out the regulator, which is sized for the original stator. You'd likely also melt some wiring.

Most people who want extra power go with abandoning the existing stator and replacing it with an automotive-style external alternator. One of the most popular is the "Poorboy conversion" - however, that is designed for the 1200. I have seen a page where a guy did an alternator conversion for a 1983 GL1100 Interstate - but it involves a lot of custom fabrication.

Whatever you do, if you do go with an alternator conversion, make sure it is driven off the main crank, and not one of the cam pulleys. I've seen several conversions that are run off one of the cam pulleys, which puts all the load and strain of the alternator on one of the timing belts - which is not designed for that kind of load. Breaking a timing belt will pretty much destroy your engine, so I would highly recommend not installing it that way.

steve allen
Posts: 149
Joined: Thu Nov 19, 2009 8:51 am
Location: theodore, al
Motorcycle: 1987 1200 Aspencade
1994 GL1500 SE
1995 CB1000

Re: Upgraded Stator

Postby steve allen » Thu Jan 14, 2010 7:29 pm

so now that being said, I can not add fog lights, dress-up lights or nothing of such. The Honda shop told me that they don't recomend any after-market lighting cause the bike was not designed for such. there f, no ring of fire, no strobes, no extra lights for the rear.........in order to add all these things, I guess I must get new Wing, I ain't paying more fo a motorcycle then I paid for my house.......can;t cook or sleep in a Wing, Haha. So, what do I do, add all the stuff I want until stator burns, then I know that I have too much? What is too much?

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WingAdmin
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1982 GL1100A Aspencade (sold)
1989 PC800 (wife's!)
1998 XV250 Virago (sold)
2007 Aspen Sentry Trailer

Re: Upgraded Stator

Postby WingAdmin » Thu Jan 14, 2010 7:46 pm

Actually, that's not quite how it works. The stator always puts out full power, unlike an alternator. There are no field windings, instead it uses permanent magnets and coils, so the faster the engine spins, the more power it puts out.

The regulator in the motorcycle changes the three-phase AC to DC, and regulates it down to around 14 volts. Any power required by the motorcycle for lights, engine, battery charging, etc. is used, and any left over power being produced by the stator is shunted to ground and lost as heat - which is why the regulator gets so hot.

So you can put all kinds of lights and things on your bike. When you get to the point where you are exceeding the capacity of the electrical system, it won't overload the stator, because it's already running at maximum output all the time. What will happen instead is that instead of charging the battery, it will draw power FROM the battery to power all your stuff. You'll know this is happening, because the voltage will drop. When it's charging, your bike's voltage will be around 14 volts at cruise engine speed (above 2,000 rpm). If it starts to drop as you add things - you know you've reached the capacity of your electrical system.

BUT - it's not the end of the world, because the Honda designers did engineer some excess capacity into the system. You just have to be a bit frugal using it up.

I have twin H4 driving lights on my 1100. H4 lights are normally 55 watts apiece, for a total of 110 watts. However, that was too much for my system - it was depleting the battery.

So I changed out my tail running/brake lights to LED's, as well as the front running/turn and rear turn signals. This saved 30 watts running, and another 30 watts braking. I changed the driving lights that I added from 55 watt H4's to 35 watt H4's, which are just as bright.

I added more lights, and plan to add more this winter - but I'm using all LED's. LED's use hardly any power at all (smaller LED's use a fraction of a watt), and you can add literally hundreds of them to your bike with no problems. So go wild!

steve allen
Posts: 149
Joined: Thu Nov 19, 2009 8:51 am
Location: theodore, al
Motorcycle: 1987 1200 Aspencade
1994 GL1500 SE
1995 CB1000

Re: Upgraded Stator

Postby steve allen » Thu Jan 14, 2010 8:56 pm

okay, that is more of an answer to what I wanted to hear.......now, with that being said, I have had problems with lights, wiring and stuff, I lost power to all lights when I was away from home, about 30 miles, got home safely, couldn't find blown fuse or any reason for it, so I wired lights to a toggle striaght from battery with inline fuse, is this going to cause problem? My charging system does stay around 13.8 to 14.7 most of the time, does goes up and down with RPM.

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WingAdmin
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Posts: 17050
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Location: Strongsville, OH
Motorcycle: 2000 GL1500 SE
1982 GL1100A Aspencade (sold)
1989 PC800 (wife's!)
1998 XV250 Virago (sold)
2007 Aspen Sentry Trailer

Re: Upgraded Stator

Postby WingAdmin » Thu Jan 14, 2010 10:15 pm

Can't see why that would be a problem, and being that you're worried about being left in the dark, I think it's a perfectly reasonable response! :)

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MSGT-R
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Re: Upgraded Stator

Postby MSGT-R » Mon Jan 18, 2010 11:45 am

There are stator "upgrades" for the older models, but they are only about 20% better.
https://www.partsnmore.com/ is one place, http://www.electrosport.com/products/product-detail-416.php is another.

If you do any upgrades with LEDs, they draw almost no power at all. Consider converting all your turnsignals and tail lights with these. You will need an electronic signal flasher to go with it.

If you add driving lights or fog lights, now you have a lot of extra draw. Be careful, that extra draw can kill a battery at lower (street) rpms, and it can also melt 3-wire alternator plugs.

If your charging right now at 13.8 - 14.7 your doing perfectly fine. If it goes below 13.5, get a little worried.


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