Air cut off valves


Information and questions on GL1100 Goldwings (1980-1983)
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guitarlos
Posts: 146
Joined: Thu Sep 17, 2009 5:45 am
Location: Speedway IN
Motorcycle: 1980 GL1100

Air cut off valves

Postby guitarlos » Sat Feb 06, 2010 8:18 am



My 80 Gl1100 only gets about 30-32 mpg. I have to choke the heck out of her to get her to start. My pipes are turning blue. Once shes warm, shes okay, but it takes about 5-10 minutes for her to warm up. She does sputter when shes cold and once shes warm, she still sputters, but not as much as when shes cold.

I cleaned out the carbs last fall but didnt change the air cut off valves.

Is this an indication that I may need to replace the air cut off valves? Also, does this mean I should change out the accelerator pump or rebuild it as well?



achowler1
Posts: 31
Joined: Sun Feb 14, 2010 12:59 pm
Location: graettinger, iowa
Motorcycle: 1983 GL1100 Aspencade

Re: Air cut off valves

Postby achowler1 » Mon Feb 15, 2010 1:44 pm

When i rebuilt my GL1100 carbs, the air cut off valves were completely shot. With my carbs rebuilt and synchronized, its an absolutely breathtaking machine.

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guitarlos
Posts: 146
Joined: Thu Sep 17, 2009 5:45 am
Location: Speedway IN
Motorcycle: 1980 GL1100

Re: Air cut off valves

Postby guitarlos » Mon Feb 15, 2010 2:12 pm

The more I read about this, the more I think thats what shes exuding!

Shes sluggish on the throttle and backfires at a high idle.

I have bought 4, so I will let ya'all know in the near future how that pans out for me and her. ;)

lake_harley
Posts: 54
Joined: Mon Jan 25, 2010 7:06 pm
Location: Uniontown, MO
Motorcycle: GL1100

Re: Air cut off valves

Postby lake_harley » Mon Feb 15, 2010 8:56 pm

About a year ago I had a project Honda VTR250 that wouldn't start. Found the one air cut-off valve diaphragm had about 1/3 of the coating gone, but the fabric reinforcement was still intact. The price of the new diaphragm was stupid expensive. A friend of mine told me about a "fix" using a product from NAPA, Plasti Dip, PN 765-2527. It's for plastic coating tool handles, etc.. I "masked" the metal areas and sprayed 2-3 light coats on both sides of the diaphragm to fill the fabric weave, letting it dry 24 Hr. between coats. Result was a bike that started just fine and the price for the whole can of the Plasti Dip was about $10. I sold the bike about 6 months later and it was still starting just fine.

I'm going to be pulling the carbs on my GL1100I for a better cleaning (just did a quick clean and it wasn't good enough I guess) and will check the air cut-off valves and maybe see if Plasti Dip will work it's magic again. Yes, I am tighter than bark on a tree :lol:

Lynn

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WingAdmin
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Location: Strongsville, OH
Motorcycle: 2000 GL1500 SE
1982 GL1100A Aspencade (sold)
1989 PC800 (wife's!)
1998 XV250 Virago (sold)
2007 Aspen Sentry Trailer

Re: Air cut off valves

Postby WingAdmin » Tue Feb 16, 2010 3:28 pm

I think I would do a test first on some regular cloth, to see how flexible it remained when temperatures dropped. I'd worry that it would crack when flexed at low temperatures, being that it is designed to coat, not to flex.

lake_harley
Posts: 54
Joined: Mon Jan 25, 2010 7:06 pm
Location: Uniontown, MO
Motorcycle: GL1100

Re: Air cut off valves

Postby lake_harley » Tue Feb 16, 2010 11:38 pm

The features listed on the Plasti Dip can state....

* Flexible - Won't crack, chip or become brittle
* Duarable - Resists weather, chemicals, impact, and abrasion

Sounds encouraging. My friend, who passed it on to me, had read about it on another motorcycle discussion board. The poster on that board used it to repair carb diaphragms that were no longer available and/or expensive.

Just my $.02

Lynn




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