high vacuum


Information and questions on GL1100 Goldwings (1980-1983)
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tlcdmc
Posts: 27
Joined: Sun Jul 19, 2009 11:23 pm
Location: kansas city, mo. United States
Motorcycle: 1981 1100 interstate

high vacuum

Postby tlcdmc » Sun Jun 24, 2012 10:59 pm



replaced engine on 81 interstate-dont know much about it, except been sitting for some period of time, kept same carbs, just wired them up-bike runs ok-went to put merc sticks on- it sucked all merc out of tubes-replaced with atf-seem to have a slow steady draw, will pull atf past check valve in about 10 seconds-any idea about cause of high vacuum-do i need to go back and reset throttle stops :?: need :idea: thanks :D



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dingdong
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Motorcycle: 1976 gl1000
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Re: high vacuum

Postby dingdong » Mon Jun 25, 2012 6:27 am

With the mercury gauges any high rev then "sudden deceleration" will cause a high vacuum condition. Bye-bye mercury. If you rev the engine be sure to "slowly" decel.
Tom

A well regulated Militia, being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear Arms, shall not be infringed.

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virgilmobile
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Re: high vacuum

Postby virgilmobile » Mon Jun 25, 2012 7:29 am

I'm not tooting my own horn,but I built this.Cheaper than any gauges and won't suck in any oil or mercury...viewtopic.php?t=8994&p=40711
It's easy to use and dead accurate.

tlcdmc
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Motorcycle: 1981 1100 interstate

Re: high vacuum

Postby tlcdmc » Tue Jun 26, 2012 12:14 am

engine at idle-no throttle-slowly pulling atf fluid out of tube into carb-shut it off after it got past check valve-sucked merc out so fast, i had to use kill switch to stop engine

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dingdong
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Re: high vacuum

Postby dingdong » Tue Jun 26, 2012 6:46 am

Sounds like you need to do a mechanical sync by putting a thin piece if wire under the butterfly valves and setting the stops. Then sync with the gauges. That way all will be near equal before you start.
Tom

A well regulated Militia, being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear Arms, shall not be infringed.

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virgilmobile
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Re: high vacuum

Postby virgilmobile » Tue Jun 26, 2012 1:03 pm

In my bottle design,the engine can't suck in oil unless you knock the bottles over.The vacuum tubes are terminated in the tops of the bottle.Only the transfer tubes are in oil.You can rev the engine or pull as much vacuum as you like,it will only transfer oil from one bottle to the next.
I also recomend a mechanical sync first.It dosen't take much of a turn to get them out of whack.

tlcdmc
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Location: kansas city, mo. United States
Motorcycle: 1981 1100 interstate

Re: high vacuum

Postby tlcdmc » Wed Jun 27, 2012 12:09 am

did bench sync today on bike with wire-fired up bike- now wont idle under 1500-adj screw all the way out-will go back tomorrow and check timing belts-would put timing light on it, but high idle wouldnt help-will start looking around for parts for virgilmobile design-probably can us tubes and check valves from merc set

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virgilmobile
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Re: high vacuum

Postby virgilmobile » Wed Jun 27, 2012 7:34 am

Any chance there is damage to the "O" rings that seal the tubes to the head.?
Generally,if everything is sealed up and you squeeze down the throttle it will kill the engine.
One quick look...remove one connector tube.Leave the carbs on the bike.Look at the butterfly valve and visually verify it can completely close.
Another check...Start the engine form cold...run it for 5 or 6 seconds at the lowest rpm possible....shut it down ant lightly tap the exhaust headers.The warm pipes are a running cylinder.If it's just one,that carb is open and the others are closed.
If they all warm up,you might have a mis-adjusted throttle cable keeping the throttle open a little.That's why there are adjustments at the grip.

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virgilmobile
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Re: high vacuum

Postby virgilmobile » Wed Jun 27, 2012 7:56 am

If you got all the hoses and valves,Walmart has the bottles.They were under $2 each.A bit of silicone to seal them and the next day there ready.Before you seal them up,Fill 2 of the 4 bottles 3/4 full of oil.That way no one bottle can ever fill up and get sucked into the engine.
That is if you make a full set.You can do it with 2 but it is easier with 4.
Just remember to separate left bank from the right bank.
You really don't want all 4 of them running at the same time all hooked together till your done.
Keep in mind.Balance the right side first then the left side and finally switch the valves to balance the right pair to the left pair.
If you get it right,all 4 bottles with all the valves open will bubble equally and have the same oil level.Rap the throttle and watch it work.It's pretty cool.
I normally adjusted the sync with the engine close to 1000 rpm.I did get it to idle down to 4 or 5 hundred,but the sync was a touch off at 1000.This was caused by a slight difference in compression.

tlcdmc
Posts: 27
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Location: kansas city, mo. United States
Motorcycle: 1981 1100 interstate

Re: high vacuum

Postby tlcdmc » Wed Jun 27, 2012 12:47 pm

problem solved- timing belt on 1-3 off half a notch-good thing i had spare engine to play with-very tricky getting that belt on just right-thought it was lined up with arrows, but belt had slack in top-fiddled with old engine belts and got a feeling of how it should go- fired up bike and it running smoother now-will start to work on sync advice-thanks

tlcdmc
Posts: 27
Joined: Sun Jul 19, 2009 11:23 pm
Location: kansas city, mo. United States
Motorcycle: 1981 1100 interstate

Re: high vacuum

Postby tlcdmc » Mon Jul 16, 2012 11:22 am

found bottles at wally world-inflation marked them up to 2.79, they had rubber stoppers with metal spout-took out spout and both hoses fit thru opening-lucked out with valves and tees at pet smart-box of six was 6.00-tubing about 5.00-still had under 20. in project-waiting for silicon to set and will try out

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virgilmobile
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82 GL1100 I
83 GL1100 I
83 GL1100 standard
84 GL 1200 I

Re: high vacuum

Postby virgilmobile » Mon Jul 16, 2012 12:38 pm

Just be sure that the hose going to the engine is the one that is in just the top of the jar and the one that's in the bottom goes to the next bottle in the bottom.
If you have any problems,let me know.
If you have a high vacuum on one cylinder it will suck all the oil into that bottle.Just adjust it to migrate the oil back till there level.

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Kama
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Re: high vacuum

Postby Kama » Sat Aug 18, 2012 12:48 am

I'm having a similar issue. I can sync the #2 and #4 to each other but when I go to sync #1 and #3, I hook it up and start up the bike with my two guage fluid setup and it tries to suck the fluid out of the gauge. I did recently replace my timing belts, did you finally determine that it being off the half tooth on that cylinder was the cause of it sucking the fluid out?

bbells
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Motorcycle: 1982 GL1100 Aspencade

Re: high vacuum

Postby bbells » Sat Aug 18, 2012 7:02 pm

I always wondered if with the extreme toxicity of mercury, and the fact that it would simply blow out your exhaust without a chemical change if it is sucked through your instruments, do you need to do an extreme cleaning of the area where your exhaust would spray it around? Just wondering since I know people who are starting to show signs of heavy metal poisoning 20-30 years after it happened.

tlcdmc
Posts: 27
Joined: Sun Jul 19, 2009 11:23 pm
Location: kansas city, mo. United States
Motorcycle: 1981 1100 interstate

Re: high vacuum

Postby tlcdmc » Sat Aug 18, 2012 7:25 pm

failed miserably trying to get this to work-carbs too far off, i think if carb were closer id have better luck-had awful time sealing opening with tubing and silicon, seamed oil kept breaking seal-oil would run into one bottle so far it got sucked up into 2 in tube-decided to-purchase one vacuum gauge from advance auto for 25 dollars-ran tubing from 1-3 thru t conection and then valve-same thing on 2-4 to valve , ran both to t in middle and then to another valve, then to gauge. started bike the opened valves enough to have slight pulse- started by getting readings from left, right , and middle-the problem with these carbs is setting # 3-that setting is crucial to all other carbs-i had to adjust 1-3,2-4 then 4 several times to balance vacuum settings-started out with 8 on right 12 on left and 15 on both-i had good luck working three adjusters and leaving # 3 alone until necessary to get 1000 rpms-finally got all set to 9 and bike runs perfect- would 4 gauge setup have been easier, probably, but its around 80 dollars and this one gauge set up only cost 25 and about 5 to t's and valves at pet smart-im going to build stationary setup when i get time, need to use automotive vacuum hose and t's account they are stronger-hose from wally word seemed to collapse when hot-the little plastic valves worked great-also thinking about using plastic el at engine hose to prevent kinking there.




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