Goldwing newbie could use advice. GL1100


Information and questions on GL1100 Goldwings (1980-1983)
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sch071
Posts: 6
Joined: Thu Jul 12, 2012 9:55 pm
Location: Grand Rapids, MI
Motorcycle: 1981 GL1100

Goldwing newbie could use advice. GL1100

Postby sch071 » Fri Jul 13, 2012 9:19 pm



Hello everyone,
Nice place you guys have here. Tons of good, good info for Goldwing newbie like myself. I need help, advice, or simply someone can yell at me, I will take anything.
I do have 1980 CB750F Supersport that I brought from dead this spring and now is my daily rider. But now I have got this GW bug and... I am eyeballing 1981 GL1100 Goldwing with 65000 miles.
Price $600. Engine runs smooooth and gearbox is nice and quiet. Checked alternator charge and @2500-3000 RPM`s voltage is 14.4-14.8V. Rear tire almost new, front still got season or two. Bottom of engine bone dry. Mufflers OK. Plastics and paint not bad for 31 years old bike.
Now fun part:
When I start engine there is few loud bangs on low RPM`s, like something is loose at bottom of engine. Same few bangs when I release clutch and I am about to take off( no loud bangs when I drop in first gear, just when I slowly release clutch and bike start accelerating). No loud bangs in any other gear, bike runs nice, still strong, life is good. After I start engine if RPM`s are increased (2000-3000RPM`s) bangs are gone. My CB750 has a clutch basket rattle, when clutch lever is pressed, noise goes away. I am not familiar with Goldwings could use advice.
How hard is to change fork seals on this bike? Both seals are ripe to be changed. :(
Rear drive gear oil slowly, slowly getting out somehow. Still have to dig into this one. Is there any seal to be changed and how hard is that task?
And finally there is oil leak where fuel pump is connected to the engine. I assume there has to be some kind of small shaft that drive that fuel pump, hence engine oil presence. Again, seals to be changed?
I know there is all bunch of things to be done on this bike but I am looking for project bike to keep me occupied in my garage. Two things that scares me are loud bangs out of ( I assume) clutch area and fork seals. Any, any help or advice is more than welcome. Best regards from Michigan.
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1981 GL 1100
1981 GL 1100
My CB750
My CB750



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RoadRogue
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Location: Castlegar BC, Canada
Motorcycle: 1997 1500SE

Re: Goldwing newbie could use advice. GL1100

Postby RoadRogue » Sat Jul 14, 2012 1:53 am

welcome to the "club" sch071 , this is the place to get your questions answered.
It sounds to me like what you are describing is the primary chain slap that is common to these bikes when the carbs are out of sync. Its an easy fix, you just need to adjust the carbs so that they are actually opening at the same time and at the same rate as each other. You can find a tutorial on how to do this in the how to section of the forum. Here is a link to the article viewtopic.php?f=11&t=81

The fork seals are easy but time consuming, you will want to put in new bushings and Progressive Suspension springs while you have it apart. This will improve the handling dramatically.

The oil leak around the fuel pump area is usually from the Tach drive and should just be a gasket( it is after all over 30 years old), same story for the rear drive leak (o-ring in there)

If you dont have a repair manual for your bike you can download one from the "manuals" section on the index page. 8-)
Ride safe, Todd
Over night campers welcome

sch071
Posts: 6
Joined: Thu Jul 12, 2012 9:55 pm
Location: Grand Rapids, MI
Motorcycle: 1981 GL1100

Re: Goldwing newbie could use advice. GL1100

Postby sch071 » Sat Jul 14, 2012 7:01 am

Tank you for your help RoadRogue
If I score this bike plan is to tear front end down, replace seals and go with different springs as you suggested.
Carburators will be cleaned and synced ( now is MUST, after you mentioned that they could be reason for that loud banging noise).
Rear end will be disassembled in order to check swing arm and that leak out of final drive. Fuel pump seal is no brainer, should not be that much of problem.
Time to get greasy :D :D

Old Fogey
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Re: Goldwing newbie could use advice. GL1100

Postby Old Fogey » Sat Jul 14, 2012 9:13 pm

Oil leak from fuel pump area is most likely to be the little oil seal inside the where the tach drive cable sits.
Easy to fix;
buy the seal, part# 91211-286-003 or 91256-096-651
remove top bolt from tach drive to head.
remove tach cable.
Grab the flats at the top of the tach drive gear and pull.
Tach drive, collar and seal will just pull out. Be careful not to loose the very small hardened washer that sits under the skew gear to stop it biting into the alloy.
Change seal, push everything back in, job done!
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'Impossible' is just a level of difficulty! The only stupid question is the one you didn't ask first!

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littlebeaver
Posts: 4420
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Location: Kansas City, Kansas
Motorcycle: 1981 gl 1100 I , 79 Yamaha XS11
Special, 82 Kawa 750 CSR, 82 Kawa 750 LTD, 03 Kawa Nomad 1500, 99 Kawa Voyager 1200

Re: Goldwing newbie could use advice. GL1100

Postby littlebeaver » Sun Jul 15, 2012 12:35 am

I hate to say this but it sounds to me like your idle jets are clogged up, 80 and 81 jets are pressed in they live down in one of those towers in the carbs, I am working on making a extractor for these jets..I have got them out using a easy out bit, but I'm working on a better way..they are clogged and once cleaned up the bike will idle and take off smoothly once again..done it many times.. Once cleaned up it's a different bike, and if it's not any different, then it's something else like your spark advancer in your Pulse Generator or a bad wire to it..Or the timing is off, the timing belts can be off a tooth .. Spark plug wires coils, fuel filter...Lots of possiblities..

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82aspen
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Re: Goldwing newbie could use advice. GL1100

Postby 82aspen » Sat Jul 21, 2012 8:53 am

try to find out exactly the source of the rear diff leak, might just have been overfilled and venting out, loose level bolt, "o" ring etc

sch071
Posts: 6
Joined: Thu Jul 12, 2012 9:55 pm
Location: Grand Rapids, MI
Motorcycle: 1981 GL1100

Re: Goldwing newbie could use advice. GL1100

Postby sch071 » Sat Jul 21, 2012 6:30 pm

Tank you guys for all these good, good pointers. I have been all over this bike last seven days ( I have some pics to post). So far I replaced front forks ( I knew they are bent slightly and, for 70 bucks, I scored nice used pair, replaced seals, bushings, dust wippers, oil) and bike ride straight and smooth. Radiator was removed and system flushed and coolant replaced, timing belts replaced since original belts were still on the bike ( one belt was so loose, tensioner did not have enough force from belt to spin). I was amazed that bike run at all. Tach seal changed ( tank you Old Fogey for part numbers). Oil, oil filter were must. Famous 3 yellow wires issue addressed ( wires were corroded, plastic melted). Not any more. Checked voltage during test run and shows 14-14.6V. Carburators pulled out few days ago, soaked in Pine Sol for few days, all jets cleaned, floats adjusted ( after I made idiot mistake) and installed back on bike today ( That carburator was not cleaned ever before, I had to heat half screws in order to crank open this bad boy). Inside was a catastrophe. And, again, bike was running OK on highway, rough, rough on low RPM`s. Today, after I installed carburator back, it would not start at all. No fuel in carbs. Pulled darn thing out and of course, me idiot, installed all floats upside down. Fixed that, adjusted all floats properly (15.5mm), reinstalled carbs, bike fires up on first try. Vacuum synced everything but bike still, sort of loud and banging on low RPM`s. Half a can of SEAFOAM into half a tank, rode few miles, much better, few more miles, more improvement. I am about to take this monster for nice long ride tomorrow ( I have to pick some back roads since bike has no seat,no fake tank, headlights, turn signals or tail lights). Otherwise is all complete.
Rear end is on my list next few days, I will first drain old oil put some LUCAS HUB STUFF just to see what is story back there. I already got Moly 60 Honda grease to properly address rear final drive but before I will like to asses situation and order seals if needed. Than comes cosmetics, head lights, turn signals, mirrors, tail lights, seat, front fender. Than after that ......
Attachments
Beginning
Beginning
Today
Today
Belts
Belts
Carburator guts being soaked in Pine Sol.
Carburator guts being soaked in Pine Sol.

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littlebeaver
Posts: 4420
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Location: Kansas City, Kansas
Motorcycle: 1981 gl 1100 I , 79 Yamaha XS11
Special, 82 Kawa 750 CSR, 82 Kawa 750 LTD, 03 Kawa Nomad 1500, 99 Kawa Voyager 1200

Re: Goldwing newbie could use advice. GL1100

Postby littlebeaver » Sat Jul 21, 2012 6:44 pm

I really enjoyed viewing your photo graph's I wish more members would do that.. :D

Old Fogey
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Re: Goldwing newbie could use advice. GL1100

Postby Old Fogey » Sun Jul 22, 2012 7:00 am

You're going to have a nice reliable bike soon, with the way your are tackling it. Just gotta keep on keeping on......!
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'Impossible' is just a level of difficulty! The only stupid question is the one you didn't ask first!

sch071
Posts: 6
Joined: Thu Jul 12, 2012 9:55 pm
Location: Grand Rapids, MI
Motorcycle: 1981 GL1100

Re: Goldwing newbie could use advice. GL1100

Postby sch071 » Tue Jul 24, 2012 6:55 am

Still pushing hard on few different fronts. One of the problems I do have is turn signals will not flash now. I removed original fairings and installed different turn signals. They are 10W each, non LED, good old light bulbs. When I turn on either side lights goes on and stays on without blinking. Since is only 20W of load per side and relay state 23Wx2 +/- 3-4W is this my problem, I do have 20W only and should be 46W +/- 3-4W? Should I buy bigger light bulbs or install resistor or maybe different relay. Any help is appreciated.

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scotterichmond
Posts: 613
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Location: Marblemount,wa
Motorcycle: 1975 GL1000
[img]http://images.goldwingdocs.com/scotterichmond_32376/Modestly_restored_1975_GL1000_750/engine_repainted_even_new_embl_3919.jpg[/img]

Re: Goldwing newbie could use advice. GL1100

Postby scotterichmond » Tue Jul 24, 2012 8:35 am

get an eletronic flasher, they are not sensitive to load, and is what you would want to use if you are going to go with LED bulbs.

sch071
Posts: 6
Joined: Thu Jul 12, 2012 9:55 pm
Location: Grand Rapids, MI
Motorcycle: 1981 GL1100

Re: Goldwing newbie could use advice. GL1100

Postby sch071 » Wed Jul 25, 2012 7:09 pm

Thanks for your advice scotterichmond.
I just added few resistors to my turn signals and they are blinking.
I am ordering new, electronic, turn signal relay to replace this old, thermal, relay. That should take care of this little snafu.

sch071
Posts: 6
Joined: Thu Jul 12, 2012 9:55 pm
Location: Grand Rapids, MI
Motorcycle: 1981 GL1100

Re: Goldwing newbie could use advice. GL1100

Postby sch071 » Mon Jul 30, 2012 4:13 pm

Finally was able to find some time and finish assembling bike (sort of). Still waiting on rear fender and few other, mostly cosmetic, things to get here and this bad boy will be about done. Almost I could see light at end of a tunnel. I was able to pull those famous slow idle jets out and clean them out ( 2 out of 4 totally clogged with some hard hard stuff inside of them). Took more than hour of fighting and begging to finally open those two ( smallest guitar string, carb cleaner and 110 PSI of air pressure did the job). Bike runs much, much better but still have few issues. RPM`s will not drop bellow 1500 when bike hot. I synced carbs but I am still not happy with this thing. Tried to adjust rpm`s by adjusting main flat head screw and that bolt is all the way out but RPM`s will not drop bellow 1500. Also, when idling, engine has tendency to, sort of, quietly burp every 5-10 seconds. Like there is extra fuel in carb or exhaust. Once thrown in the gear ( second and up) bike runs smooth and strong. I have idle jets 2 1/2 turns out on all 4 carbs. Is that too much? I already adjusted bowl floats to 15.5 mm. What I am missing here?
Attachments
Almost there
Almost there

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scotterichmond
Posts: 613
Joined: Fri May 06, 2011 3:49 pm
Location: Marblemount,wa
Motorcycle: 1975 GL1000
[img]http://images.goldwingdocs.com/scotterichmond_32376/Modestly_restored_1975_GL1000_750/engine_repainted_even_new_embl_3919.jpg[/img]

Re: Goldwing newbie could use advice. GL1100

Postby scotterichmond » Mon Jul 30, 2012 4:32 pm


User avatar
tumunga
Posts: 97
Joined: Sun Jun 21, 2009 10:34 am
Location: United States
Motorcycle: 1989 GL1500 - this is the one I will always need help with.

1980 GL1100I Interstate (gone)

Re: Goldwing newbie could use advice. GL1100

Postby tumunga » Sun Jul 06, 2014 11:43 pm

sch071 wrote:Hello everyone,
Nice place you guys have here. Tons of good, good info for Goldwing newbie like myself. I need help, advice, or simply someone can yell at me, I will take anything.
I do have 1980 CB750F Supersport that I brought from dead this spring and now is my daily rider. But now I have got this GW bug and... I am eyeballing 1981 GL1100 Goldwing with 65000 miles.
Price $600. Engine runs smooooth and gearbox is nice and quiet. Checked alternator charge and @2500-3000 RPM`s voltage is 14.4-14.8V. Rear tire almost new, front still got season or two. Bottom of engine bone dry. Mufflers OK. Plastics and paint not bad for 31 years old bike.
Now fun part:
When I start engine there is few loud bangs on low RPM`s, like something is loose at bottom of engine. Same few bangs when I release clutch and I am about to take off( no loud bangs when I drop in first gear, just when I slowly release clutch and bike start accelerating). No loud bangs in any other gear, bike runs nice, still strong, life is good. After I start engine if RPM`s are increased (2000-3000RPM`s) bangs are gone. My CB750 has a clutch basket rattle, when clutch lever is pressed, noise goes away. I am not familiar with Goldwings could use advice.
How hard is to change fork seals on this bike? Both seals are ripe to be changed. :(
Rear drive gear oil slowly, slowly getting out somehow. Still have to dig into this one. Is there any seal to be changed and how hard is that task?
And finally there is oil leak where fuel pump is connected to the engine. I assume there has to be some kind of small shaft that drive that fuel pump, hence engine oil presence. Again, seals to be changed?
I know there is all bunch of things to be done on this bike but I am looking for project bike to keep me occupied in my garage. Two things that scares me are loud bangs out of ( I assume) clutch area and fork seals. Any, any help or advice is more than welcome. Best regards from Michigan.


Sir, welcome to the best Goldwing site EVER!!

Here's a step by step for your front forks. I followed it back in the day, and it's PERFECT! : http://www.kichline.com/chuck/GoldWing/forks/default.htm

Here's the post at this site where I posted those instructions, if there is info you need that's not supplied above:

http://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=63

It's easy, time consuming like someone mentioned, yet satisfying when you're finished! DO IT!!!
Tumunga
1989 GL1500 Goldwing with all the optional goodies (I think)

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tumunga
Posts: 97
Joined: Sun Jun 21, 2009 10:34 am
Location: United States
Motorcycle: 1989 GL1500 - this is the one I will always need help with.

1980 GL1100I Interstate (gone)

Re: Goldwing newbie could use advice. GL1100

Postby tumunga » Sun Jul 06, 2014 11:52 pm

ahhhh!!!! ZOMBIE THREAD!!!1!
Tumunga
1989 GL1500 Goldwing with all the optional goodies (I think)

Old Fogey
Posts: 724
Joined: Fri Oct 30, 2009 2:09 am
Location: Glasgow Scotland
Motorcycle: 1976 GL1000
1979 GL1000
Contact:

Re: Goldwing newbie could use advice. GL1100

Postby Old Fogey » Wed Aug 20, 2014 4:18 pm

One thing I haven't seen mention of on this thread;
If you don't know the history of the timing belts absolutely for sure, change them NOW. These are interference engines. If a belt goes, so do at least the valves on that side (and maybe a piston too!).
25,000 miles or 5 years is the accepted ruling.


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'Impossible' is just a level of difficulty! The only stupid question is the one you didn't ask first!


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