rear Master Cylinder shaft c clip broken


Information and questions on GL1100 Goldwings (1980-1983)
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mwex
Posts: 4
Joined: Sun May 27, 2012 9:57 pm
Location: Centereach, New York
Motorcycle: 1982 GL1100A Aspencade

rear Master Cylinder shaft c clip broken

Postby mwex » Sun Aug 12, 2012 5:13 pm



I am trying to rebuild the rear master cylinder. I went to remove the c clip from the washer on the shaft and the two holes on the clip just broke and now I am stuck. Does anyone have any ideas? This is becoming a problem I would like to have this bike on the road before the summer is totally over.



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SteveB123
Posts: 842
Joined: Thu Apr 05, 2012 9:29 am
Location: Winchester, Ontario, Canada
Motorcycle: 1982 1100I, 60A Poorboy, MSD coil

Re: rear Master Cylinder shaft c clip broken

Postby SteveB123 » Sun Aug 12, 2012 6:17 pm

Any decent fastener store can match a clip.
Current:82 GL1100 Interstate, 60 Amp Poorboy, MSD coil
Previous: 93 GSX1100F Katana
82 GL500 Silverwing

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eklimek
Posts: 307
Joined: Tue Feb 15, 2011 1:55 pm
Location: St Catharines Ontario Canada
Motorcycle: 81 GL1100 (Widowmaker not in service), 83GL1100, CB350f x 6, CB400f x2, CB550f sold, CL350 (seized engine), plus enough donors to take me through retirement.

Re: rear Master Cylinder shaft c clip broken

Postby eklimek » Sun Aug 12, 2012 8:42 pm

You mean the C clip remains in place and the holes have torn out?

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flash2002
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Location: Montreal, Canada
Motorcycle: gold wing 1800
2003

Re: rear Master Cylinder shaft c clip broken

Postby flash2002 » Sun Aug 12, 2012 9:16 pm

I had that problem at one time, what I did is spray WD-40 on it, let it sit over night the next day I would use a bid sewing needle and tap it behind the spring till it came out far enough to grab with a screw driver.

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littlebeaver
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Location: Kansas City, Kansas
Motorcycle: 1981 gl 1100 I , 79 Yamaha XS11
Special, 82 Kawa 750 CSR, 82 Kawa 750 LTD, 03 Kawa Nomad 1500, 99 Kawa Voyager 1200

Re: rear Master Cylinder shaft c clip broken

Postby littlebeaver » Sun Aug 12, 2012 11:11 pm

remove unit from bike, place it in a vise and cut it off with a dremel..If you are skilled with one..

oldgold82
Posts: 22
Joined: Thu May 24, 2012 7:02 pm
Location: Grand Forks, North Dakota
Motorcycle: 1982 gl1100I

Re: rear Master Cylinder shaft c clip broken

Postby oldgold82 » Mon Aug 13, 2012 5:48 am

Lots and lots of solvent/WD40. I rebuilt mine earlier this summer and my c-clip pliers where terrible quality and bent. I finally got a inspection pick (dental tool, whatever you call it) under the ring and carfully pulled part of it out little by little. It took quite a few tries and some cussing but I got it. Good luck.

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SteveB123
Posts: 842
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Location: Winchester, Ontario, Canada
Motorcycle: 1982 1100I, 60A Poorboy, MSD coil

Re: rear Master Cylinder shaft c clip broken

Postby SteveB123 » Mon Aug 13, 2012 5:51 am

eklimek wrote:You mean the C clip remains in place and the holes have torn out?


Now that I've re-read it and digested, yes, I believe that's the issue.....the holes for the internal circlip pliers have broken off.
Current:82 GL1100 Interstate, 60 Amp Poorboy, MSD coil
Previous: 93 GSX1100F Katana
82 GL500 Silverwing

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scotterichmond
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Location: Marblemount,wa
Motorcycle: 1975 GL1000
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Re: rear Master Cylinder shaft c clip broken

Postby scotterichmond » Mon Aug 13, 2012 8:12 am

I found this , you could rebuild it . notoo bad on cost

http://www.ebay.com/itm/HONDA-1981-GL11 ... 58954665be

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DaveDanger
Posts: 75
Joined: Tue Apr 24, 2012 2:12 pm
Location: Columbus, Georgia
Motorcycle: 1983 GL1100A Aspencade

Re: rear Master Cylinder shaft c clip broken

Postby DaveDanger » Sun Aug 19, 2012 10:57 pm

A suggestion to help you remove that broken circlip... Locate the rod-end (the doubled over, stamped sheet metal piece that the pedal arm attaches to with a clevis-bolt and cotter-pin). Remove the rod-end from the threaded rod protruding from the end of the master cylinder, but leave the jam-nut in place if you can. You're just making room to work with a drill and will reinstall it later. Leaving the nut in place will help you determine exactly where the rod-end goes back to. This affects the pedal height and travel.
Clamp the master cylinder in a vise using one of the thru-bolt ears to clamp onto, not the body of the cylinder.
Using a center punch (hardened steel chisel basically that is ground to a sharp point rather than a wide blade) Punch a tiny centering dent in the clip somewhere about its center, as relates to the two ends of the clip.
Using a drill-motor with a 3/32" twist-drill or slightly smaller, drill into the circlip at the newly punched dent. Think of the the center punch dent as a pilot-hole to help keep the drill bit exactly where you want it. Don't push so hard that you drill completely thru the steel clip and into the aluminum body, but as close to all the way thru the clip as you can. A drill press makes this much more precise, but a hand drill will work. Accidentally drilling a tiny distance into the aluminum body is not the end of the world, as this area is not fluid filled or under pressure, but better left undamaged if possible. Be patient and allow the drill to do its own work. If you begin pushing hard to speed up the work, you WILL drill thru the steel clip and before you can remove the pressure, the bit will drill 1/4" or more into that soft aluminum. If you do that deeply enough, you can ruin the master cylinder housing.
Once you got the clip drilled almost thru, it should be very easy to get a sharp pointed pick of some sort behind one of the broken ends of the clip and pry it towards the center, It should break in half at the drilled point. Is why you want to drill/break it as close to halfway as possible. you want to easily be able to remove both the broken halves.
Complete your rebuild and install the new circlip that should be provided with the rebuild kit.


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