1983 GL 1100 rear brake pedal


Information and questions on GL1100 Goldwings (1980-1983)
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jf.dineen
Posts: 1
Joined: Sun Mar 07, 2010 3:04 pm
Location: Corydon, Indiana
Motorcycle: 1983 GL1100 Aspencade

1983 GL 1100 rear brake pedal

Postby jf.dineen » Sun Mar 07, 2010 3:35 pm



I have already disconnected the master cylinder and taken the return spring off. the pedal takes all my weight to get it to go down and then I need a pry bar to get it back up.... any suggestions....



robertdawber
Posts: 285
Joined: Fri Aug 07, 2009 9:24 pm
Location: Eliot, ME
Motorcycle: 1983 GL1100 Interstate

Re: 1983 GL 1100 rear brake pedal

Postby robertdawber » Sun Mar 07, 2010 10:15 pm

It is more than likely that the hole in which the pedal itself sits is either filled with cud or rusty. I had this happen to me...I needed to used WD-40 (or something similar) and patiently move it up and down. It does come off and you can then clean it up.
When I say patient-it took several days of spraying and allowing the chemical to work. If recall,I used a hammer as well from the back side. I had the bike on the center stand. It is awkward, but can be done.
Good Luck!

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WingAdmin
Site Admin
Posts: 17050
Joined: Fri Oct 03, 2008 4:16 pm
Location: Strongsville, OH
Motorcycle: 2000 GL1500 SE
1982 GL1100A Aspencade (sold)
1989 PC800 (wife's!)
1998 XV250 Virago (sold)
2007 Aspen Sentry Trailer

Re: 1983 GL 1100 rear brake pedal

Postby WingAdmin » Sun Mar 07, 2010 10:48 pm

Yup, what he said. You might find "PB Blaster" will work better than WD-40. You can spray it in there, work it up and down, and over the course of a few days, it will work more and more loose. But it will happen again. To fix it properly, you have to take it off, clean the rust off, grease it, and put it back together. That will fix it for many years to come.

bigray122
Posts: 41
Joined: Wed Mar 24, 2010 7:37 am
Location: Dallastown, PA
Motorcycle: 1983 GL1100I

Re: 1983 GL 1100 rear brake pedal

Postby bigray122 » Wed Mar 24, 2010 7:54 am

I don't have the same issue, however my pedal goes all the way down and still barely stops the bike. Shouldn't the rear wheel completely stop if I'm standing on the break pedal. One would think so, but even after a mechanic replaced the pads last year it still barely stops the bike... Any thoughts?

robertdawber
Posts: 285
Joined: Fri Aug 07, 2009 9:24 pm
Location: Eliot, ME
Motorcycle: 1983 GL1100 Interstate

Re: 1983 GL 1100 rear brake pedal

Postby robertdawber » Wed Mar 24, 2010 9:54 am

bigray122 wrote:I don't have the same issue, however my pedal goes all the way down and still barely stops the bike. Shouldn't the rear wheel completely stop if I'm standing on the break pedal. One would think so, but even after a mechanic replaced the pads last year it still barely stops the bike... Any thoughts?

It sounds like you either have air in the lines or a leak some where. The rear brake may also be connected to one of your front brakes so if one is compromised the other is as well.
Wingman makes a number of references to the MityVac-I bought one recently and I can tell you it will make a big difference in bleeding the brakes (easier and more likely to do a thorough job)
In any case, I would start with bleeding the brakes and then go from there.

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RBGERSON
Posts: 2625
Joined: Tue Mar 09, 2010 7:57 am
Location: SCOTTSDALE, AZ
Motorcycle: 98 SE GL 1500
had every year from 75 to 83

Re: 1983 GL 1100 rear brake pedal

Postby RBGERSON » Sat Mar 27, 2010 9:49 am

Sounds like you need to remove the brake pedal from the spindle and clean it up, grease it, use marine grease water resistant, and put it back on. Kind of a PITA but not hard to do..rear wheel off to get at it. You can add a zerk fitting to it so you can grease it yearly. As is it's just a dry spindle w/o a fitting.

As to the second question..air in the lines or expanding/old rubber lines or leak or worn master..could any or all of the above..


HAD LOTS OF GOLDWING 75-83
NOW INTO 1500'S..RIDING A 1998 SE

FAIR WINDS,
RB


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