GL1100A Head Gasket Replacement and Valve Cleaning


Information and questions on GL1100 Goldwings (1980-1983)
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Spamcan
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GL1100A Head Gasket Replacement and Valve Cleaning

Postby Spamcan » Sun Sep 02, 2012 11:53 pm



I finally got to taking my heads off (right side only so far) and have it for the most part all cleaned up. The bike blew lots of wet smoke and soot (in the exhaust ends and at the bottom of each cylinder and around the exhaust seals) hence the reason I'm doing a full top-end gasket replacement. I'm kinda wondering about two things though:
1. The head gasket material is mostly off, but some visual is left (not a clean bright aluminum). Though it feels really smooth. Do I need to get all the "visual" residue off? Best way?
2. The two exhaust valves have lots of built up soot on them, I can scrape it off in chunks. The seal-edges seem fairly clean and seem to seat well. What's the best way to clean them? Should I get them turned/reseated?
Thanks all!


'94 Honda Shadow 600 (gone)
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'82 Honda Goldwing Aspencade (tinkering mode)
'12 Victory Cross Country

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Re: GL1100A Head Gasket Replacement and Valve Cleaning

Postby WingAdmin » Mon Sep 03, 2012 9:20 pm

Scotchbrite pads are good for cleaning gasket residue - not hard enough to mar the aluminum, but abrasive enough to get rid of the gasket. I have used them in combination with chemical gasket remover, and it works quite well.

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Re: GL1100A Head Gasket Replacement and Valve Cleaning

Postby virgilmobile » Mon Sep 03, 2012 9:33 pm

As far as the valves, I'd remove them( don't mix them up) lap each valve and replace the seals.this also gives you the opportunity to clean them well and inspect the springs.It's not uncommon. to find a inner spring broken.
Never grind the valve or seat, Just hand lap them.
Don't forget to replace the 2 "O" rings on the oil control tube at the top of the block and dry fit the head gasket for a perfect fit.Follow the 3 step torque sequence exactly.

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Re: GL1100A Head Gasket Replacement and Valve Cleaning

Postby Spamcan » Mon Sep 03, 2012 11:48 pm

Thanks guys. I'll use the scotchbrite and get some gasket remover (I'm guessing at auto parts store?). And can I get the stuff to lap the valves there too?
'94 Honda Shadow 600 (gone)
'09 C50 SE Grey/Silver (gone)
'82 Honda Goldwing Aspencade (tinkering mode)
'12 Victory Cross Country

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Re: GL1100A Head Gasket Replacement and Valve Cleaning

Postby virgilmobile » Tue Sep 04, 2012 8:15 am

Any auto supply should carry valve lapping compound.
It comes in a small tube.Don't bother with the "kit" ,just get the compound.Not grinding compound.
I remove all the pieces from the valves,dip the stem in oil and coat the valve seat area with a little compound.I slide the valve back into the head and attach a 1/4" fuel line (no clamp) to the valve and stub it to a battery drill.This allows me to turn the valve easier than by hand.
Slow,no high speed.This is a drill version of "hand lapping"
10-15 seconds each direction then remove the valve and clean everything.
Look at the seat surface.This may take a few runs at it.When it's mated up nice and flush reassemble the whole thing with a little oil on the valve stem.
Don't forget....Clean all the lapping compound from the area.

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Re: GL1100A Head Gasket Replacement and Valve Cleaning

Postby Spamcan » Tue Sep 04, 2012 9:30 am

Perfect, off to the auto parts tonight!
'94 Honda Shadow 600 (gone)
'09 C50 SE Grey/Silver (gone)
'82 Honda Goldwing Aspencade (tinkering mode)
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Re: GL1100A Head Gasket Replacement and Valve Cleaning

Postby virgilmobile » Tue Sep 04, 2012 10:20 am

Do you have the tool needed to remove the valve spring and the "keepers"?
Autozone may "rent" one.

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Re: GL1100A Head Gasket Replacement and Valve Cleaning

Postby Spamcan » Tue Sep 04, 2012 8:31 pm

I do have the tool for the valves. Had them off once already on the right side. Bugger those keepers are though.

I got the gasket remover and valve cleaning compound from napa today. No instructions on the valve stuff that they call "water mix valve grinding compound". Everything they had said "grinding" on it. Oreilly auto had nothing.I'll try ur method with the fuel line and drill- slow for several rotations each direction. Just gotta get off my arse now! ;-)
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Re: GL1100A Head Gasket Replacement and Valve Cleaning

Postby SteveB123 » Wed Sep 05, 2012 6:08 am





Olde School!
Current:82 GL1100 Interstate, 60 Amp Poorboy, MSD coil
Previous: 93 GSX1100F Katana
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Re: GL1100A Head Gasket Replacement and Valve Cleaning

Postby goldminerusa » Wed Sep 05, 2012 6:55 am

By tightening all the areas where oil was getting into the cylinders doesn`t this now increase oil consumption from worn rings?

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Re: GL1100A Head Gasket Replacement and Valve Cleaning

Postby virgilmobile » Wed Sep 05, 2012 7:12 am

I've done my share by hand.the same can be done with a slow drill on the other end.same results.Put a little pressure on the spring and lightly tap on the tool to free the keepers.Keep a small magnet right there to capture them.

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Re: GL1100A Head Gasket Replacement and Valve Cleaning

Postby virgilmobile » Wed Sep 05, 2012 7:24 am

Head work will have little effect if your oil problem is piston rIngs worn out.New valve guide seals will help.Did it smoke all the tIke?

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Re: GL1100A Head Gasket Replacement and Valve Cleaning

Postby Spamcan » Wed Sep 05, 2012 9:08 am

virgilmobile wrote:Head work will have little effect if your oil problem is piston rIngs worn out.New valve guide seals will help.Did it smoke all the tIke?

Yep, smoked pretty much constant, slightly heavier at startup. Though oddly it would lessen if stopped and restarted after being warmed up. So far on the right side, forward piston exhaust valve, the stem seal seemed loose around the stem. Though...I'm no expert so I could be wrong. Regardless, new seals are installed (Viton type). I'm REALLY hoping I don't have a ring issue, not sure if I want to tackle that.

I also saw this on eBay, I may get this if it would be a safer way for me to do the seals. The seals looks good, just discolored and I want to make sure all is good.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Chemico-Valve-Coarse-Fine-Lapping-Paste-Lapping-Tool-/221117751259?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item337ba51fdb
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Re: GL1100A Head Gasket Replacement and Valve Cleaning

Postby SteveB123 » Wed Sep 05, 2012 2:31 pm

Spamcan wrote:
virgilmobile wrote:I also saw this on eBay, I may get this if it would be a safer way for me to do the seals. The seals looks good, just discolored and I want to make sure all is good.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Chemico-Valve-Coarse-Fine-Lapping-Paste-Lapping-Tool-/221117751259?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item337ba51fdb


Valve lapping paste and the suction cup tool will be available at any local auto parts place.
Current:82 GL1100 Interstate, 60 Amp Poorboy, MSD coil
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Spamcan
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Re: GL1100A Head Gasket Replacement and Valve Cleaning

Postby Spamcan » Wed Sep 05, 2012 8:14 pm

SteveB123 wrote:Valve lapping paste and the suction cup tool will be available at any local auto parts place.

I tried O'Reilly and Napa (only 2 in my area), neither had the tool nor paste listed as "fine". But then again, I wasn't 100% knew what I was looking for at the time. Will try again.
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Re: GL1100A Head Gasket Replacement and Valve Cleaning

Postby SteveB123 » Thu Sep 06, 2012 5:27 am

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/search.oap?keyword=valve+grinding

Maybe they'll have to get it in from the warehouse. The first one, with the two small tubes, would be dandy. Only the slightest of smears on the valve face is required....that little kit could do four bikes.
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Re: GL1100A Head Gasket Replacement and Valve Cleaning

Postby Spamcan » Thu Sep 06, 2012 2:36 pm

Sweet, says it (and the tool) are available at my local store. A stop is on the way!
'94 Honda Shadow 600 (gone)
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Re: GL1100A Head Gasket Replacement and Valve Cleaning

Postby moffat » Sun Sep 16, 2012 10:38 am

Check the cylinder bores at the top by feeling for a ridge with your finger nail. If you find a ridge use a micrometer to measure the bores to check the actual diameter against the recommended tolerances.

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Re: GL1100A Head Gasket Replacement and Valve Cleaning

Postby Spamcan » Sun Sep 16, 2012 11:43 am

Do you mean a ridge from deeper in the bore to the edge? So looking for wear from the rings and the end will be thicker (narrower diameter) from where the rings don't touch, am I understanding correctly? If out of tolerance, can the bore be sleeved?

Just an update, I did get the lapping paste (coarse and fine) and the tool. But right after purchasing my wife and I found the house we've been looking for to buy. Pretty awesome house. The best part (for me) is it's pretty much got a 4-5 car garage and a workshop. The guy who had it originally built was a garage mechanic, so it's well set up for work. It even has a steel stud/ring mounted in the overhead beams for attaching a hoist chain for pulling out engines, and a nice sized exhaust vent. Our closing date is between Oct 7th and 15th. Our inspection in this Wednesday, which I've noted a few issues which are hopefully minor.

So at this point the motorcycle is on hold and packing for the move is the priority. And it's getting towards the non-riding season up here in the Pacific North Wet. Plus, it'll be MUCH easier to work on the bike at the new house with a dedicated work space that's at least 12'x12', versus the space I have here at our rental home of maybe 5'x7' (where the bike is parked). Right now I have to pull everything out of the garage every time I want to work on it.

I'm also contemplating adding 2 more things to the task - replacing the rings/honing the bore (maybe sleeve the bore or whatnot from what I find at the top of this post here), and replacing the clutch pack. I figure since I'm in there this far, and that I'll have a great work space, just get it all done. So now I've gotta do some research on parts and how to do them. I've read up on removing the engine from the frame, I'm already about 1/2 way there. If anyone has any tips or tricks for these, please pass them on! Or anything else I should also add?
'94 Honda Shadow 600 (gone)
'09 C50 SE Grey/Silver (gone)
'82 Honda Goldwing Aspencade (tinkering mode)
'12 Victory Cross Country

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Re: GL1100A Head Gasket Replacement and Valve Cleaning

Postby moffat » Sun Sep 16, 2012 4:37 pm

Yes you are dead right, if there is wear in the bores then the wear is at the top where the piston rings top out before the piston goes downwards.
If the wear is excessive as per the manual you will have to pull the engine to pieces as the crankcase halves have to be seperated to get at the pistons. They can be rebored but you will have to check that this has not been done before to the maximum, the pistons should be marked accordingly. If you do have it rebored you will have to do all 4 cylinders other wise unbalance will occour.
It is possible to bore out the cylinder liners but this is not the best option as they are cast in with the aluminium crankcases .If the oversize pistons and rings are available they should be used.
I actually had my bike resleeved back to standard by a specialist machine shop as only two bores where badly damaged whilst the the other side bores where perfect with no wear. The engine was rebuilt with new properly gapped piston rings, big end and main bearings. If you go this far you MUST have the maintenance manual as the bearings differ and need to be carefully replaced with the correct colour coded bearing shells. For example for some reason the engine has the left hand cylinders lubricated via oil feed through the connectioning rods squirting oil UPWARDS onto the bores ( all four connection rods have the feed holes in them but only the left hand ones are connected ) and the feed is taken through holes in the big end bearing shells. The right hand pistons are not lubricated by this means so you MUST not get the shells mixed up and do not trust the previous owners rebuild but follow the manual fastidiously
The engone removalis easy but I removed the carbs in one unit and leave them in situ after disconnecting them from the inlet manifold. You will have to remove the left hand side of the frame, disconnect the prop shaft with circlip pliers etc. The engine weighs 105 kilos so a trolly jack is essential as is a very strong friend. Your new house sounds like it has an enviable working area and you will need boxes labelled left hand side and right hand side to make assembly easier. Take photos as you go along as will help refresh your memory for reassembly and use genuine OEM gaskets. As a matter of course replace the cam belts and write the fitting date inside the cover for the next owner.

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Re: GL1100A Head Gasket Replacement and Valve Cleaning

Postby Spamcan » Sun Sep 16, 2012 5:36 pm

Thanks Moffat. I have to admit I failed to get a compression test done before pulling the valve assembly. I think what I'll do is finish the valves (both sides) then do a compression test (IF the bores feel fine). If the compression is good, let it go and finish the rest of the bike. If compression is still an issue, or the bore is bad, it kinda sounds like it's more than I want to handle. And there's a renowned (in our area) GW mechanic that lives/works about 2 miles from the new house who will get a ring/bore/bearing job from me. ;)

And +1 on keeping things labeled and separated right/left. I have 4 plastic bins all full of things like that, even ziplock bags with labels. I'd be lost for sure if I didn't.

Anyone know of a part # or where to get a replacement lower fairing lamp assembly? I'm referring to the fairing/scoop (what is the actual name of this piece?) that's low to the bottom of the engine level. There are 2 "fog lights" there and one is broken. So far I cannot find it in a schematic.


'94 Honda Shadow 600 (gone)
'09 C50 SE Grey/Silver (gone)
'82 Honda Goldwing Aspencade (tinkering mode)
'12 Victory Cross Country


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