Sorry - no pictures - When my hands are that dirty from brake work I can't bring myself to grab the camera...
However - I rebuilt both sides calipers last night with all new rubber bits from the kits.
Once I removed the caliper pucks (pistons?) I was amazed these things worked at all...
The left over brake fluid inside the caliper was the consistency of pudding (snot really)
It was a PIA to wipe out and I used lots of brake cleaner and paper towels to get it all cleaned out..
I have seen before the dry, crusty, crystal like residue, and some very dry pistons in the past, but this was a new one for me....
The old pads were still in decent (?) shape and the brakes actually worked but I had the kits and the pads so I changed them all out....
Bleeding was not too bad and with the 1980 splitter (not proportioning valve) that evenly controls oth left & right side calipers it seemed to make no difference which side I did first or second...and I was able to develop pressure but it was weak and too close to the handle so I am sure the Master Cylinder rebuild (pending) will make it work even better...
However I was still not pleased with the "firmness" of the brake lever after a test ride (in 50 degree weather) last night so I resorted to an old trick.
I pulled the lever back and tied it down with some rubber bands that effectively held the lever "on" all night...this morning the lever was firm and the brake working almost perfectly...
Why did that old fluid turn to snot pudding..?
After a complete brake bleed is is reasonable to suspect the system is clean?
The MC needs attention...
Information and questions on GL1100 Goldwings (1980-1983)
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