stator install


Information and questions on GL1100 Goldwings (1980-1983)
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trashtruck
Posts: 236
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Location: albany, New York
Motorcycle: 1982 gl1100 interstate

stator install

Postby trashtruck » Sat Oct 13, 2012 5:52 pm



hi all, newbie here. so i've been reading thru some of the posts here and have gathered some valuable insights to my new to me 82 gl1100 interstate. i have run the tests from the climer manual and from the posts here and have come to the conclusion that it's time for the dreaded stator replacement. my local honda dealer tells me that oem is no longer available so will have to look online for one. my question would be this: when installing the new stator is it possible to install a rubber gasket between the stator and the cover where it mounts? just trying to think ahead a little and eliminate one possible weak point. thanks for any info.


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RoadRogue
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Motorcycle: 1997 1500SE

Re: stator install

Postby RoadRogue » Sat Oct 13, 2012 6:46 pm

Would you concider doing a Poorboy type of conversion to your bike, that is grafting a car alternator onto your bike so that you had 2 1/2 times the electrical power available to run more lights,heated clothing or what ever your heart desires? Or do you want to keep the bike as stock as possible? Stock stator puts out 300 watts or 22amps at 5000rpm. Conversion puts out up to 750watts or 55 amps as needed at anything over idle.
Replacing the stator means pulling the engine out of the bike, conversion doesnt. 8-)
Ride safe, Todd
Over night campers welcome

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trashtruck
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Re: stator install

Postby trashtruck » Sat Oct 13, 2012 7:14 pm

not a fanatic about keeping the bike stock but not really crazy about the idea of a poorboy conversion either. to me it seems unsafe. was just wondering while i have the motor out if i could mabey cut up an old inner tube or something to mount under the new stator and eliminate a potential trouble spot.
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RoadRogue
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Re: stator install

Postby RoadRogue » Sun Oct 14, 2012 12:41 am

Two things to reply to, first the poorboy conversion for the 1100 has proven itself to me to be as reliable as the bike it self. I have well over 30,000 miles on my conversion, all I had to do was tighten the belt a little once . Secondly the OEM seals and gaskets on your bike have been working well for the last 30 years. Do you really need to improve on that? 8-)
Ride safe, Todd
Over night campers welcome

Ghostrider52005
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Location: Olive Hill Kentucky
Motorcycle: 1985 GL 1200 LTD, 1984 GL1200 Interstate, VS 700 Suzuki Intruder.

Re: stator install

Postby Ghostrider52005 » Sun Oct 14, 2012 2:15 am

+1 on the poorboy conversion. I have over 30,000 on mine son in law has more than that on his. Neither of us actually bought the kit. Fabed up our own mounts etc but the kit works great also. Adjusted my belt once which about a 10 minute thing.
Stator or alternator is up to you but sitting on the side of the road 500 mi from home needing to remove an engine to replace a stator or removing a few screws and two bolts and taking the alternator to a starter or alt repair shop for a cheap fix sort of sways me to convert every wing I own, two so far. :lol:

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RoadRogue
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Re: stator install

Postby RoadRogue » Sun Oct 14, 2012 2:20 am

Even Mother Honda thought it was a good idea in 1988 8-)
Ride safe, Todd
Over night campers welcome

Ghostrider52005
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Motorcycle: 1985 GL 1200 LTD, 1984 GL1200 Interstate, VS 700 Suzuki Intruder.

Re: stator install

Postby Ghostrider52005 » Sun Oct 14, 2012 5:48 pm

Actually if safety is a concern it might comfort you to know that way back when I was in my early teens and Im 54 now, the one wire alternator conversion, exactly the same thing we do to 1200s now, was being done all the time on Super C A and H Farmall tractors. :lol:
Those were a six volt system from the factory but had trouble with the voltage regulators going out. The easy fix then was to simply put in a 12 volt battery and bolt on an alternator with a one wire hookup, doing away with the factory generator of the time and the voltage regulator.
So really this isnt a new experimental thing someone came up with for wings. That conversion has been around for years and years on other machines. :mrgreen:

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Gr8Heath
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Motorcycle: 1981 Honda Goldwing 1100 Interstate

Re: stator install

Postby Gr8Heath » Mon Oct 15, 2012 10:49 am

RoadRogue wrote:Would you concider doing a Poorboy type of conversion to your bike, that is grafting a car alternator onto your bike so that you had 2 1/2 times the electrical power available to run more lights,heated clothing or what ever your heart desires? Or do you want to keep the bike as stock as possible? Stock stator puts out 300 watts or 22amps at 5000rpm. Conversion puts out up to 750watts or 55 amps as needed at anything over idle.
Replacing the stator means pulling the engine out of the bike, conversion doesnt. 8-)



Interesting, fairly easy? tell me more. I think it's a practical mod. And I'm evidently having a problem with mine so maybe I should consider it

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RoadRogue
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Re: stator install

Postby RoadRogue » Mon Oct 15, 2012 9:47 pm

I wrote an article for the Saunders forum a couple of years ago that was pretty much a how to on this very subject. Since that site was bought out and the new owners changed things all the photos that went with it were lost. I am in the process of rewritting it for this forum with all the upgrades I have come up with to make it even better and easier to do yourself.

Little Beaver did this conversion on his 81 and seems to be really happy with it.
If you can wait a few days I should have finished writting and finding all the Pictures to post it here for all to see. If you just cant wait go to http://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums/2-g ... l1100.html and have a read, just remember most of the pictures that were there are now lost.For now.

Bottom line is 55amps /750watts of power to run all kinds of stuff, can be installed in a weekend if you are a half decent wrench. 8-)
Ride safe, Todd
Over night campers welcome

Ghostrider52005
Posts: 124
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Location: Olive Hill Kentucky
Motorcycle: 1985 GL 1200 LTD, 1984 GL1200 Interstate, VS 700 Suzuki Intruder.

Re: stator install

Postby Ghostrider52005 » Mon Oct 15, 2012 11:51 pm

If you have all your parts gathered, and the tools you need on hand you could probably do it in less time than that if you worked steady at it. Probably a day. My first one on my LTD took four days but I had just got out of the hospital and could only work about half hour at a time and then had to rest for an hour or so. And I fabbed up my own alt mounts etc instead of buying the kit cause im cheap and poor :lol:
Honestly, you cant go wrong by doing it. It gets rid of all the charging gremlins that 1100 1200s are known for. My LTD has had it for quite a while. Now that my wifes insterstates stator is crapping out the alt conversion is what it will get. If I had any problems with it on my LTD I wouldnt be doing it on the Interstate since getting engine out isnt that hard for me since my son in law owns a shop bike lift etc that I could use if I wanted too. :)

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patbrandon1
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Motorcycle: 1982 GL1100 I
1981 Honda CM400C

Re: stator install

Postby patbrandon1 » Tue Oct 16, 2012 12:20 am

I will be looking forward to the new write up Todd. Thanks for doing so much for us . I know the wrenching won't be bad on me at all, just maybe on my back and knees a little. :) But I don't have very much electrical knowledge. Can you also include a quick explain on how to wire it? My stator is fine now, but I may put on this conversion this winter. Just built a new 12 X 12 motorcycle repair shed, and can put it to use while my wing sleeps the winter away. Thanks again for your time.

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trashtruck
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Re: stator install

Postby trashtruck » Tue Oct 16, 2012 3:48 pm

ok, after posting for what i believed to be a stator issue, it appears to be something completely different. i had don the testing to determin the condition of the stator only to find that the battery was bad. went to wallyworld to replace battery and after having them add acid and charge it up, it didnt survive the ride home. my local wallyworld is exactly 4.2 mi from my house. after waiting a week for them to get in a new battery the same thing happened. battery boiled dry with no voltage coming from regulator. (according to my dig multimeter. replaced bat in meter, replaced wallyword batt and still cant get reliable reading, batt boild dry overnite. whats going on here?
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RoadRogue
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Re: stator install

Postby RoadRogue » Tue Oct 16, 2012 8:01 pm

Are you saying that the battery loses all its acid when left parked overnight? Are you leaving it on a plug in battery charger ? If so what charge rate are you useing? It should never be more than 2amp/hr.for its initial charge overnight. If you are charging it at a higher rate you run the risk of warping the plates because of the heat generated. warped plates means you need a new battery . Hope this helps narrow down your problem,if this is not it then give us more info and we will see if we can help figure it out
8-)
Ride safe, Todd
Over night campers welcome

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trashtruck
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Re: stator install

Postby trashtruck » Tue Oct 16, 2012 8:25 pm

ok, the bike is not on an overnight charge. on the way home from wallyworls, ( 4.2 mi) battery boils dry. no acid in bat. this has happened 3 times now. testing as follows: with fresh bat in multimeter, disconnect stator. with bike off test yellow to yellow @200 ohm, a-b 5.2, b-c 5.3, c-a 0.4. yellow to ground 0, 0, 0, (infinate), reconnect stator, meter @200vac, a-b 17.4, b-c 17.8, c-a 4.7. no voltage from regulator.
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trashtruck
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Re: stator install

Postby trashtruck » Tue Oct 16, 2012 8:27 pm

sorry, ac test with bike running @3000 rpm
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trashtruck
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Re: stator install

Postby trashtruck » Tue Oct 16, 2012 8:34 pm

could shorted stator be backfeeding battery? all lights, horn guages work ( with fresh bat). am i just experiencing bad battery batch from wallyworld?
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RoadRogue
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Re: stator install

Postby RoadRogue » Tue Oct 16, 2012 9:17 pm

What is the voltage across the battery when the bike is running at idle and at 3000rpm?
The only reason your battery should be boiled dry is because of excessive voltage.

I know this is a stupid question but you are sure that the guys at Walley World actually put acid in the battery ? and it was trickle charged prior to putting it into service?

Check the plug in under the false tank for the regulator, is it corroded, melted whats the voltage to the black wire compared to the voltage across the battery? 8-)
Ride safe, Todd
Over night campers welcome

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SteveB123
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Re: stator install

Postby SteveB123 » Wed Oct 17, 2012 8:00 am

I've got a Walmart battery working just fine in my bike.
Added the included acid at home, and then charged it as the instructions said....24hrs, I think.
How can they possibly be adding acid and charging your battery at the store level is beyond me.

When I brought my old battery back, employees weren't permitted to walk the batttery back to the parts department, I got to do that myself, so I can't imagine they actually add acid!
Current:82 GL1100 Interstate, 60 Amp Poorboy, MSD coil
Previous: 93 GSX1100F Katana
82 GL500 Silverwing

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trashtruck
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Re: stator install

Postby trashtruck » Wed Oct 17, 2012 8:07 am

that's what i'm gonna try next, take bat home and do it myself. voltage across bat, @950 rpm-11.6, @3000rpm- 12.8
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WingAdmin
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Re: stator install

Postby WingAdmin » Wed Oct 17, 2012 9:05 am

trashtruck wrote:that's what i'm gonna try next, take bat home and do it myself. voltage across bat, @950 rpm-11.6, @3000rpm- 12.8


Your bike is not charging correctly. It should not be dropping down as far as 11.6 volts at idle, and at 3000 RPM you should be somewhere between 13.8 and 14.8 volts. A fully charged battery at rest shows 12.6 volts, so at 12.8 it's just barely receiving a charge.

That said, if the battery was significantly discharged, it may take some time to bring the charge level up enough even at 3000 RPM. To test this, hold the engine at 3000 or 3500 RPM for a good couple of minutes at least, and then, while holding the engine RPM up, measure the battery terminal voltage again.

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trashtruck
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Re: stator install

Postby trashtruck » Wed Oct 17, 2012 4:30 pm

found my problem, wallyworld! took new bat home, added acid and charged for 8hrs. reading before removing charger was 13.78. installed in bike and started. @950rpm voltage across bat 12.57, @ 3500 13.47. fan came on and top voltage was 12.82 @3000rpm. voltage with bike off is 12.52 and holding (for now). voltage from stator a-b17.4vac, b-c17.8vac, c-a4.7vac @3000rpm. turn bike off a-b 4.7ohm, b-c 4.4ohm, c-a0.4ohm. bad stator? poorboy conversion looking more appealing instead of changing out stators every 50k mi.
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RoadRogue
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Re: stator install

Postby RoadRogue » Wed Oct 17, 2012 7:15 pm

Glad to hear that you found out the battery problem. So I guess it wasnt such a stupid question after all. Sometimes its the simplest things. Yes it does sound like your stator is cooked. There are two schools of thought on this one. Remove the old "burnt up" stator, you dont want to have all that crap in your oil any more. This does involve removing your engine. At this time you can either replace the windings and have a stock 300watt charging system or you can go with the alternator conversion.
Some people will just leave the old stator in place and count on the oil filter to catch any crap that may come off the old windings.
If you remove the unused parts you will shave a few pounds from the bike.Some people have even reported that they removed the rotor to shave even more rotating mass from the engine, therefore the engine will rev up quicker (better performance). I cant confirm this is possible but it looks like it should be. If you do remove the old rotor and windings you will cancell out the added drag on the engine of the alternator.
Nice thing about the alternator conversion is the extra electrical power availiable, and if your charging system ever quits on you in the middle of nowhere parts are available in most any auto parts store.


just a teaser for you
more teasers
more teasers

Im still working on rewritting the how to, Should have it all together by this weekend for you 8-)
Ride safe, Todd
Over night campers welcome

Ghostrider52005
Posts: 124
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Location: Olive Hill Kentucky
Motorcycle: 1985 GL 1200 LTD, 1984 GL1200 Interstate, VS 700 Suzuki Intruder.

Re: stator install

Postby Ghostrider52005 » Wed Oct 17, 2012 10:18 pm

I had never heard of taking out the old stator to do the poorboy. I never have nor known anyone that has and none of us ever had a problem. My personal bike gets ridden 100 mi a day at least when there isnt snow or ice on the road because of what I do. Cold rain its going to be ridden anyway. If something coming off the stator would hurt the engine mine would be toast by now :) But each to his own.

I have never noticed a power loss from the alternator conversion.

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RoadRogue
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Re: stator install

Postby RoadRogue » Thu Oct 18, 2012 2:20 am

It is not nessesary to remove the stator, some people just choose to do it. I didnt, but my stator is still working fine . I keep it in just in case I need an emergency back up charginging system. Just plug in the reg and away I go again. As for the power lose with both installed, most people wouldnt notice it. While the stator is no longer putting a load on the engine you are still spinning the mass of the magnets around the windings plus the new alternator and its load on the engine. that does create some extra load even though it is a small amount.Some would call it splitting hairs but I noticed the difference on mine..... 8-)
Ride safe, Todd
Over night campers welcome

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WingAdmin
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Re: stator install

Postby WingAdmin » Thu Oct 18, 2012 8:55 am

trashtruck wrote:found my problem, wallyworld! took new bat home, added acid and charged for 8hrs. reading before removing charger was 13.78. installed in bike and started. @950rpm voltage across bat 12.57, @ 3500 13.47. fan came on and top voltage was 12.82 @3000rpm. voltage with bike off is 12.52 and holding (for now). voltage from stator a-b17.4vac, b-c17.8vac, c-a4.7vac @3000rpm. turn bike off a-b 4.7ohm, b-c 4.4ohm, c-a0.4ohm. bad stator? poorboy conversion looking more appealing instead of changing out stators every 50k mi.


Definitely a bad stator. You should be seeing close to 50 VAC on each pair at 3000 rpm. And you have a shorted winding on the A-C. I say go for the poorboy! :)




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