GL1100 I Seat Bolt

[patbrandon1]

My right side seat bolt was never there when I got the Wing. I have been using a nut and bolt, but it is always a pain to get it off when I want to remove the seat. This following diagram shows the bolt that is supposed to go into the threaded hole, it is listed as #6. The size says 8 X 12. What I need to know is what size tap I need to clean out the welded threaded hole that the bolt goes into? I can see that it was cross threaded and suppose that is why there was not one in it before. I am not sure what the numbers indicate as far as the size 8 X 12. Just not good with these things, and could use some help.

[littlebeaver]

8MM and it's a 1.25 pitch on the tap...I removed the bolt and checked it on a die .. special just for you..

[WingAdmin]

The problem with those bolts is that you have to push down against the weatherstripping on the saddlebags in order to get your driver at a 90 degree angle into the bolt heads. For that reason, it's very easy (and common) to cross-thread them when reinstalling them - and the seat is a very common removal item, that has to come off for many different maintenance tasks.

[virgilmobile]

the seat is a very common removal item, that has to come off for many different maintenance tasks.

You bet.....Other than cleaning the mirrors,I think the manuals first thing is to first remove the seat .

Makes me wonder if thats so one won't try to drive the bike after service unless the seat is on.???

[littlebeaver]

Fella's, I was wondering if anyone has ever cut slots in the bolts bracket on the lower side so someone could just loosen the bolt and simply lift the seat up and out...Might be worth a try as that bolt is a real pain at times to get started... Sure would hurry things up..

[scotterichmond]

What sort of "maintenance" needs to be done, that you need to remove the seat. I have never pulled mine for anything.

[littlebeaver]

You must have knobs on the bolts to the shelter and you just remove the shelter right quick , right Scotty? What's you're secret? Time to spill the beans there fella.... Most people remove the seat to remove the shelter, perhaps it's not so much about maintainance but more about when removing the shelter for whatever reason..

[patbrandon1]

What sort of "maintenance" needs to be done, that you need to remove the seat. I have never pulled mine for anything.

The seat has to be pulled to get the faux tank off. So there are a good number of reasons that I have had to pull my seat off. Just installed a new choke cable, and the seat needed to come off for that, so I left it off for when my new throttle cables come in tomorrow. Also replaced the flasher, and some other new things, and many times I have had to take off the seat. Plus, the is a $100 gold piece on top of the gas tank that was put there for grins. And you must take the seat off to get it.

[patbrandon1]

8MM and it's a 1.25 pitch on the tap...I removed the bolt and checked it on a die .. special just for you..

Thanks for doing that just for me. It was pretty early in the morning to go out and do that. Did you wake the wife? Also, there isn't a taper on the welded nut itself is there? I want to try to tap it from the backside of the nut, so I know I get it started well and true.

[littlebeaver]

I needed something to do...No problem...I think I'm gonna cut a slot for that bolt so my seat drops down into the bolt and all I need to do is slide it back and tighten it...and place knobs on the two shelter bolts so I can turn them by hand....Yeah, that's the ticket...

[scotterichmond]

You must have knobs on the bolts to the shelter and you just remove the shelter right quick , right Scotty? What's you're secret? Time to spill the beans there fella.... Most people remove the seat to remove the shelter, perhaps it's not so much about maintainance but more about when removing the shelter for whatever reason..

well I replaced the air filter, throttle cables, carb sync all with out pulling the faux tank. not sure what else I would need to take it off for.
Just sayin'

[littlebeaver]

Wow, I'm gonna have to try that next time..thanks Scotty..

[scotterichmond]

It did take two hours for the cables, maybe it would be easier and faster to pull the faux tank.

[littlebeaver]

Well..... Fella's...... I went and took a hacksaw to my bracket, I took my own advice and now I shall never remove the bolts again, just need to loosen them and pull the seat up...No more cussing at the silly bolt for slipping out of my fingers and falling on the floor...Here's a photo of my idea.

I cut slots in the bracket

[scotterichmond]

Well..... Fella's...... I went and took a hacksaw to my bracket, I took my own advice and now I shall never remove the bolts again, just need to loosen them and pull the seat up...No more cussing at the silly bolt for slipping out of my fingers and falling on the floor...Here's a photo of my idea.

IM002124.JPG

those are pretty basic brackets, maybe you should make a pair that the slots are . looooooonger.

[littlebeaver]

Because then you would still need to pull out the bolts to remove the seat....the idea is to not have to remove the bolt at all...Just loosen it and pull the seat up and out..

[scotterichmond]

I did not comunicate clear enough , I meant for more adjustment. you could still have the slot for removing , and not pull the bolt.

I just realized, we have seriously kighjacked this post, sorry !It was sort of close to topic.

[littlebeaver]

Oh, I understand what you mean now.... the adjustment on the seat bracket is where it should be, if the seat goes back any more then they have it, the front will come out of the pocket it sits in..So I see no need to do that..

[Wingsconsin]

I hope you have not compromised the strength of those brackets by cutting them too much.
I know all they do is hold the seat down and forward enough to keep it on the bike, and in fact I have ridden the bike without these bolts in place before, but this may be something to keep an eye on for a while...

I have removed the seat so often I can easily do it now, really I can strip off the saddlebag covers,side covers, seat, faux tank and fairing lowers in under 10 minutes now I bet I have done this so often. Once you are that far into it most everything you need or want to work on is accesible...


[attachment=0]100_2870.jpg[/attachment]

[littlebeaver]

I have an extra old seat with replacement brackets if it doesn't do well for me....

[patbrandon1]

Update... I found a bolt in a box pf stuff that I had gotten from the PO when I bought the Wing. It was in a baggie labeled "seat bolt". I took it out to the bike last night and lined it up as true as possible with it being coated with WD-40. I started it iin slowly and it felt very tight. I did feel like it was started in the thread line, and kept going in an out about an eight of a turn each ti,e. After about two or three minutes of this, it started to turn easier each time. It did finally go in all the way, and I put my cordless drill to work, and took it in and out about 20 times. It is all good now. Thanks for the comments, and ideas. I do believe I might do the slot trick. But I am getting pretty good at putting them back in. But do like the idea. As far as not needing to take the Faux tank off to do things, i.e. throttle cables, flasher, etc. I suppose it is possible, but it is just easier to get to some things under there with it off, and really doesn't take that long any more. Just need a good idea for the two front bolts on the Faux tank. Those can be a PITA to get in and out too.

[littlebeaver]

That's great man...Glad you got it, sounds like some rust may have started in the hole or something..Ace hardware is a great place to get any bolts you may need...they have metric bolts in all sizes..I have a large flat washer on that bolt that holds everything nice and tight..

[littlebeaver]

A couple of friends off another site suggested I leave off the two front bolts to the false tank cover only having the two rear one's in place, Hummmm I thought ...my first concern is that it would rattle, then I thought, that ain't right man, so I tried it to see if I would get any ill effects, ...I have completely forgotten about them being out now and its been for a good while, so it sure make for a fast removal of the cover without them being there..I would never suggest anyone do this but I did it..

[WingAdmin]

I never had a problem pulling those front bolts out - long extension, socket with a shop towel stuck in it to "grab" the bolt, have them out in a couple of minutes.

[patbrandon1]

I never had a problem pulling those front bolts out - long extension, socket with a shop towel stuck in it to "grab" the bolt, have them out in a couple of minutes.

Update #2. I looked up the part number for the front bolts of the Faux tank, and low and behold WingAdmin saves me again. The bolts on mine were slotted screwdriver heads, and the part number calls for Allen head. I changed them, and WOW, how very much easier it is to do. The PO must have changed them. I sometimes don't catch the obvious so quickly. It took a minute to realize that they were supposed to be allen head bolts when you mentioned a shop rag to "grab" the bolt. I first thought, "how does that help with a standard slotted screw?" I feel pretty "Duh" about this now. I was kinda laughing the whole time I was changing them. Thanks for the save.